Deleting Rear ABS only?

[blackout]

Any thoughts on deleting the rear ABS only??  The junction fitting shown may interfere with my new swingarm.  That combined with needing a longer line, I started wondering whether deleting the rear ABS would be a good option.  Locking up the rear surely is less of a concern than the front, but looking for any thoughts.  Thanks!

[Pursuvant]

You can pull 2 of the three fuses for the ABS (kill the selenoid & motor) but leave the sensor fuse (and you need the rear sensor working) or you loose speedo, if you want to run without ABS. I do it most of the time.

You could maybe route the rear ABS sensor wire to pick up length for a longer swingarm, and keep ABS. If you find enough length (or patch in extra length) then comes the brake lines part of the fun.

The bitch is the adapter blocks & 2 rubber hoses (one of which you need to lengthen) - one to rear master cylinder & one to rear caliper is a single assembly. You can't unscrew rubber brakes lines from the adapter blocks and screw in custom lengths.

If I understand you right you need longer brakeline to reach new caliper position, a few ways below that let you do that and keep abs.

1) run Spiegler ss braided lines all the way connecting rear master cylinder to ABS and return line to rear caliper. Pull the stock lines, hard lines and rubber, and toss them in a box in case somebody wants them.

2) You could keep oem hard lines, and replace the two oem adapter blocks that connect oem hard lines to oem rubber lines by machining a new block, supporting banjo fittings. Then you need Spiegler ss braided lines to replace only the oem rubber lines from your new machined adapter block, 1 to rear master and 1 to rear caliper.

3) keep the oem rubber line and hard line from rear master to the ABS. From the ABS to your new caliper, go Speigler ss braided bypassing oem return hard line and oem rubber line. This is probably least expensive option. You keep half the oem setup going to the ABS, and replace other half of the oem returning from the abs to rear caliper, to get the extra length you need.

Have fun

Edited February 7, 2021 by Pursuvant
Rear abs sensor has to be kept working or no speedo

[Pursuvant]

Anybody who wants to machine new brake line adapter block for banjo compatibility (or standard Spiegler threaded screw in connection), I'm in. Make a set for me, we share cost

Edited February 7, 2021 by Pursuvant

[DewMan]

When  I installed Spiegler replacement lines on my '17 ABS, it deleted all the junction blocks, all rubber and  hard lines and replaced them with a kit of 5 Spiegler braided lines.

It uses two lines for the rear brake. One from the rear master cylinder to the ABS and a second line from the ABS back to the rear caliper. Routing shouldn't be an issue.

Same basic setup for the Front except for the extra line for the front crossover.

I like the more streamlined setup. many fewer junctions to worry about leaking etc.

Unless you're only racing on a controlled surface I wouldn't recommend disabling the ABS either partially or completely.

 

Good luck with your project.