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Whirring noise when bike is off


Gravisman

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19 hours ago, Gravisman said:

However I only get continuity when I reverse the probes. This seems wrong on the surface, but this pattern of getting the opposite of what the manual says repeats for each of the diode tests, and my feeling is that if they were really all broken, the bike wouldn’t run, and it *does* run, so it’s more likely that I’m misunderstanding the test. 

That is odd.  Please forgive this question, but are you absolutely sure your meter leads are plugged in to the meter correctly, and that nothing else goofy is causing you to be reversing something?  If you have a second meter, you can set it to DC volts and measure what's on your first meter's leads to verify that red=positive.  Or just measure a spare diode and see if it also looks backwards.

Or possibly the manual is worded in a strange way that's keeping you from understanding what it's attempting to say.  I have a factory manual, so if you post a copy of that part of the wiring diagram you're working with, I can compare it to mine and see if they're the same.

Edited by Triple Jim
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On 1/31/2021 at 6:26 AM, Triple Jim said:

That is odd.  Please forgive this question, but are you absolutely sure your meter leads are plugged in to the meter correctly, and that nothing else goofy is causing you to be reversing something?  If you have a second meter, you can set it to DC volts and measure what's on your first meter's leads to verify that red=positive.  Or just measure a spare diode and see if it also looks backwards.

Or possibly the manual is worded in a strange way that's keeping you from understanding what it's attempting to say.  I have a factory manual, so if you post a copy of that part of the wiring diagram you're working with, I can compare it to mine and see if they're the same.

I don’t have another multimeter, but I have verified about 10 times I have the negative/black probe plugged into the COM port. I’m testing the main relay box held in a rubber sleeve  on the upper left of the bike, and performing the series of continuity described under the heading “checking the relay unit (diode)” on 8-133 in the factory manual. I get continuity, example, with positive on pin 2 and negative on pin 1, and no continuity the other way around. 

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I'm not clear on exactly what this "RELAY UNIT (DIODE)" really is.  Is there a relay in it or is it just diodes, or both?  If it contains a relay, could it have a pair of contacts welded closed from the overcurrent event you created?  Can you get this unit apart to see what's in it.  Then you could check each component to see where the problem really is.

 

Is it #31 on this diagram?  If so, it's not terribly expensive. 

https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/2020/mt07-mt07lb/electrical-1


Edited by Triple Jim
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On 2/2/2021 at 8:13 AM, Triple Jim said:

I'm not clear on exactly what this "RELAY UNIT (DIODE)" really is.  Is there a relay in it or is it just diodes, or both?  If it contains a relay, could it have a pair of contacts welded closed from the overcurrent event you created?  Can you get this unit apart to see what's in it.  Then you could check each component to see where the problem really is.

 

Is it #31 on this diagram?  If so, it's not terribly expensive. 

https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/2020/mt07-mt07lb/electrical-1

I too noticed the cheapness of that and ordered one a few days ago. It's one of those parts that takes a few days before it ships, so I won't have it in my hands until next week. Fingers crossed.

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I finally got a chance to plug in a new ECU and found that the problem went away. So as I long suspected, something fried in the ECU.

I managed to pick up a new problem this weekend, though. I put everything back together for the gajillionth time and this time I ended up with a problem in a fuel injector. The stock ECU reports it as fault 43 - incorrect voltage to the fuel injector and fuel pump. I noticed the connector on one of the injectors has become loose in the sense that I can now push on it and rotate the connector around the injector. I'm curious if anyone knows of that looseness - does it indicate something is broken, or just needs to be tightened? On the parts diagram, the connector does not appear to be a separate piece from the injector itself. I'm going to a pro mechanic tomorrow for some help, but if I for sure need a new injector, I want to know that ASAP so I can get it ordered. If I can somehow pull things together I want to be on track with the bike in less than two weeks...

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