Whirring noise when bike is off

[Gravisman]

I was trying to do some electrical and pretending to know what I was doing when I accidentally shorted a 12v wire and blew my FZ-07's ignition fuse. Upon replacing the fuse, things returned to normal, except for one very odd side-effect: there's now a whirring noise coming from somewhere near the throttle bodies. Some servo or electric motor is spinning for a second, pausing for a second, spinning for a second, pausing, and repeating ad infinitum. Even stranger, this effect is happening while the bike is keyed OFF, and it stops when I key ON. 

Anybody have a clue what I might be dealing with?

[Gravisman]

The more I listen the more it sounds like a small fan is going off and on. When it goes off I can hear a few clicks like it’s slowing down before stopping. Is there a fan somewhere near the throttle body?

[mjh937]

Might it be the fuel pump?  I believe that is in the fuel tank, but sometimes it is hard to tell where a noise is coming from.  It should not be cycling like that though. 

[Gravisman]

Fuel pump is definitely my main hypothesis. Especially since I misspoke - it’s actually the efi fuse that blew. It’s so weird that it stops when the ignition is keyed on, though. 

[Gravisman]

Disconnected fuel pump; noise persists 

[mossrider]

Just now, Gravisman said:

I was trying to do some electrical and pretending to know what I was doing when I accidentally shorted a 12v wire and blew my FZ-07's ignition fuse. Upon replacing the fuse, things returned to normal, except for one very odd side-effect: there's now a whirring noise coming from somewhere near the throttle bodies. Some servo or electric motor is spinning for a second, pausing for a second, spinning for a second, pausing, and repeating ad infinitum. Even stranger, this effect is happening while the bike is keyed OFF, and it stops when I key ON. 

Anybody have a clue what I might be dealing with?

I'm curious what electrical you were 'working on' and what was tampered with, removed and/or reconnected. The reason I ask is;

These 2 connectors are easy to flip-flop when messing around in there. Flip them and your fan now thinks it's a crank position sensor and the crank sensor the fan. Disconnect the fan only itll run for a time, disconnect the crank sensor no dice but the fan will run. Secondly the fan is wired to allow it to come on with the key off when necessary to cool the radiator when the rig is parked. If you here a 'small fan noise' I'd look at the fan (you can see it from the throttle side easily) and see if it's running.

Worth a try.

[Gravisman]

I unplugged stuff until it stopped. The plug that goes right in between the two fuel injectors was the one

[Gravisman]

moss rider - I didn’t disconnect any of the main wiring while I was doing my initial tinkering that caused my problem. I was trying to wire up a custom can cable to an open connector on my aftermarket aRacer ecu. Whilest testing the wires to find the 12v I accidentally got a short and that’s what blew the efi fuse. 

I’m curious what book your picture is from. Seems like a manual someone like me might benefit from…

[Gravisman]

So whatever is powered by the plug between the injectors, the engine seems to run fine with it disconnected. How important could it be?

[Gravisman]

If I’m reading the parts diagram correctly, it’s the stepper motor. 

---

 

anyone know what the purpose is of the stepper motor?

[mossrider]

Just now, Gravisman said:

moss rider - I didn’t disconnect any of the main wiring while I was doing my initial tinkering that caused my problem. I was trying to wire up a custom can cable to an open connector on my aftermarket aRacer ecu. Whilest testing the wires to find the 12v I accidentally got a short and that’s what blew the efi fuse. 

I’m curious what book your picture is from. Seems like a manual someone like me might benefit from…

Haynes Service Manual

[stickshift]

Stepper motor is for idle speed control (idle air bypass). The engine may stall with it disconnected in varying riding conditions depending on temp, elevation, load, voltage etc.

The stepper may just be faulty.

Edited January 28, 2021 by stickshift

[mossrider]

17 minutes ago, Gravisman said:

So whatever is powered by the plug between the injectors, the engine seems to run fine with it disconnected. How important could it be?

Coolant temp sensor, which is why the fan was coming on.

[Gravisman]

I found the coolant temp sensor and it’s not that. Confident it’s the stepper motor.

[Gravisman]

Yeah, 100% sure now. Bought the Haynes manual (thanks!) and it calls the assembly with the stepping the idle speed control valve. 
 

So, if the only purpose of this thing is to keep the engine running at idle, I feel like it might not be critical for my purposes. This is a track only machine and does not stop at stoplights. Is there any reason I’m missing why this would be a critical component for track riding? I’ll replace it either way, but it’s good to understand if I have to cancel track time until it’s fixed.

[Triple Jim]

If that device is making a whirring noise when it shouldn't, I doubt if it's the thing that's causing the problem.  Something is sending it power at the wrong time.

[Gravisman]

5 hours ago, Triple Jim said:

If that device is making a whirring noise when it shouldn't, I doubt if it's the thing that's causing the problem.  Something is sending it power at the wrong time.

Yeah, I had an epiphany last night that the motor/valve is just a symptom, not the problem. My 12v accessories are now getting power even when the bike is keyed off, and that must be what is happening with the stepping motor as well. I'm now convinced I have a short, and trying to go about finding out where it is, having never done anything of the sort before. I'm now starting to stare at the Starter Relay because I'm pretty sure the short is after the starter relay fuse (pulling said fuse makes the power go away). I did some voltage testing on the starter relay terminals and found that even with the the bike keyed off and the ground disconnected from the battery, I still get 12v at the starter relay's red terminal. I'm not totally sure if that's expected or not, but it seemed surprising to me. If someone knows, I'd appreciate confirmation or denial of whether it should be that way.

[Triple Jim]

1 hour ago, Gravisman said:

...and found that even with the the bike keyed off and the ground disconnected from the battery, I still get 12v at the starter relay's red terminal. I'm not totally sure if that's expected or not, but it seemed surprising to me. If someone knows, I'd appreciate confirmation or denial of whether it should be that way.

Edit:  I was wrong!  I checked my MT-07, and the main starter power terminal does not have 12v on it with everything off.  Now I'm confused about how yours could, unless they changed things by the time my 2020 was made.

 

Edited January 28, 2021 by Triple Jim

[Gravisman]

1 hour ago, Triple Jim said:

Edit:  I was wrong!  I checked my MT-07, and the main starter power terminal does not have 12v on it with everything off.  Now I'm confused about how yours could, unless they changed things by the time my 2020 was made.

 

Good to know! I think there must be a short that is driving mine to have power. It seems like maybe the short could be in the relay itself, but I'm not immediately sure what the definitive test would be for that.

[Triple Jim]

1 minute ago, Gravisman said:

Good to know! I think there must be a short that is driving mine to have power. It seems like maybe the short could be in the relay itself, but I'm not immediately sure what the definitive test would be for that.

If yours has power and is made like mine, your starter motor would be running now, assuming your battery is connected.

[Gravisman]

6 hours ago, Triple Jim said:

If yours has power and is made like mine, your starter motor would be running now, assuming your battery is connected.

My starter relay does have power (even with things turned off) and it also works - I can start and run the bike just fine. Maybe there's something going on there, but I don't know. At this point I'm looking at just installing an auxiliary kill switch for the battery because everything seems to actually work fine when I turn the bike on and my only problem is things getting power when they shouldn't while the bike is off.

[Triple Jim]

9 hours ago, Gravisman said:

My starter relay does have power (even with things turned off) and it also works...

I misunderstood and thought you meant that the main starter terminal on the starter had power.  Yes, the relay should have power on the input side of its contacts, even with the ignition switch off.

Edited January 29, 2021 by Triple Jim

[Gravisman]

1 hour ago, Triple Jim said:

I misunderstood and thought you meant that the main starter terminal on the starter had power.  Yes, the relay should have power on the input side of its contacts, even with the ignition switch off.

Thanks for the clarification.

[Gravisman]

I *think* I may have determined that the source of the problem is the main switch. I have a key switch eliminator and so I jut have a very simple two-position toggle switch, and I'd been thinking it worked because it did turn on the bike (dash and such) when switched on, and turned it off when switched off. On closer inspection, though, I found that I'm getting continuity always between the pins 2 & 3 (read pins left to right as 1, 2, 3 in my attached picture). I feel like there's a good chance this is the problem since the schematic indicates the middle pin should only have continuity with either of the outside pins when the bike is on.

I would love it if someone could verify for me that a correctly-behaving FZ-07 does not have continuity on these pins. If you trace the main switch cable back under the frame, it turns into two plugs - a big square one with two wires/pins, and a smaller rectangular one with 3 wires/pins. That smaller rectangular one is in my pictures and the one I'd love someone else to test, if they'd be so kind. Disconnect both the big and small connectors (the big one has a notch in the middle that I had to use a flathead screwdriver to push down and release) and use a multimeter to check continuity of the 3 pins on the smaller connector. If I'm reading the schematic right, all pins should have continuity when switched on, and none of them should have it when when switched off.

[Gravisman]

Actually never mind on this request. I realized that the problem persists even with the switch fully disconnected, and I was told those two pins are supposed to be jumped (probably because I just have a two position switch with no parking mode). 
 

The only two components I can think to test now are the ecu and the relay box. When I perform the diode relay tests from the service manual, the results are strangely opposite what the manual says, for example the manual says there should be continuity with a positive probe on relay pin 1 and negative probe on relay pin 2, and not vice versa. However I only get continuity when I reverse the probes. This seems wrong on the surface, but this pattern of getting the opposite of what the manual says repeats for each of the diode tests, and my feeling is that if they were really all broken, the bike wouldn’t run, and it *does* run, so it’s more likely that I’m misunderstanding the test.