OkieMedic Posted January 10, 2021 Share Posted January 10, 2021 I just swapped the factory levers for some shortys, but now the clutch isn’t fully disengaging when I pull the lever. The back wheel still spins when it’s on the stand (even warm), and it clunks through gear changes. Any advice on how to adjust? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member DewMan Posted January 10, 2021 Premium Member Share Posted January 10, 2021 1 hour ago, OkieMedic said: I just swapped the factory levers for some shortys, but now the clutch isn’t fully disengaging when I pull the lever. The back wheel still spins when it’s on the stand (even warm), and it clunks through gear changes. Any advice on how to adjust? Thanks It sounds like there's not enough slack on your clutch cable. You need to adjust the cable so that it fully disengages. Pictures of your lever and the where the clutch cable attaches to the clutch cover would be helpful I think. DewMan Just shut up and ride. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OkieMedic Posted January 10, 2021 Author Share Posted January 10, 2021 2 minutes ago, DewMan said: You need to adjust the cable to that it fully disengages. Right... I’ve tried messing around with it, but I can’t seem to get it right. I was looking for some tips. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yakko Warner Posted January 10, 2021 Share Posted January 10, 2021 Did you adjust the free play? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OkieMedic Posted January 10, 2021 Author Share Posted January 10, 2021 (edited) 2 hours ago, DewMan said: It sounds like there's not enough slack on your clutch cable. You need to adjust the cable so that it fully disengages. Pictures of your lever and the where the clutch cable attaches to the clutch cover would be helpful I think. So, with it in gear, and the clutch pulled in, the wheel will stop if you hit the rear brake and won't start again until you release the clutch. Also, the clutch lever had the right amount of play in it when I began, but now its so far out of whack I can't get anything there with the screw all the way in, but there is a little play at the clutch case end. Edited January 10, 2021 by OkieMedic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member DewMan Posted January 10, 2021 Premium Member Share Posted January 10, 2021 steps to properly adjusting your clutch cable: Note: The adjustment at the bottom of the cable is for rough adjustment and the adjuster at the lever is for fine-tuning the adjustment. You want to end up with just the smallest amount of slack at the lever. When you let go of the lever it should not still have tension on it. 1) adjust the bottom adjuster till you are sloppy at the lever. then set the lever adjustment out approximately 1/4". 2) Adjust the slack at the bottom until you've taken up all but the the smallest bit of slack from the cable at the lever. 3) Use the adjuster at the lever to make the final adjustment so you have no tension when the lever is released but does immediately gain tension when you start to pull the lever. If any of this is unclear I'll blame it on the 16 hr shift I just finished working. You may want to check youtube for videos that may make the steps more clear. Good Luck. 1 DewMan Just shut up and ride. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mossrider Posted January 10, 2021 Share Posted January 10, 2021 In your last pic; loosen the clutch cable nut to the right of the engine bracket so that a thread shows between it and the bracket. Now take up the slack at the other side of the bracket and tighten things down. This should give you the free play you need, if not 1 more adjustment may be needed. Remember that there will always be viscous drag in the clutch pack even more so untill the oil is good and hot. With the bike on a rear stand and the transmission is in gear and the clutch pulled in as you are doing the rear wheel will still spin, only just. It should take the slightest frictional force on the tires surface from your shoe or gloved hand to stop it. Once hot it may stop spinning completely due to frictional loss in the secondary drive line (chain, sprockets, wheel bearings, brake drag etc) BLR Note: after rewatching your video I think it's fine where it is and you're overthinking this. Notice when you hold the rear wheel with the rear brake in gear with the clutch in and out there is no discernable change in the engine sound and no tendency to stall the motor meaning the clutch is mostly disengaged with very little drag, same as I was describing above. And it will clunk gear changes w/o a load on the drive line on the rear stand like that. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OkieMedic Posted January 11, 2021 Author Share Posted January 11, 2021 (edited) 12 hours ago, mossrider said: In your last pic; loosen the clutch cable nut to the right of the engine bracket so that a thread shows between it and the bracket. Now take up the slack at the other side of the bracket and tighten things down. This should give you the free play you need, if not 1 more adjustment may be needed. Remember that there will always be viscous drag in the clutch pack even more so untill the oil is good and hot. With the bike on a rear stand and the transmission is in gear and the clutch pulled in as you are doing the rear wheel will still spin, only just. It should take the slightest frictional force on the tires surface from your shoe or gloved hand to stop it. Once hot it may stop spinning completely due to frictional loss in the secondary drive line (chain, sprockets, wheel bearings, brake drag etc) BLR Note: after rewatching your video I think it's fine where it is and you're overthinking this. Notice when you hold the rear wheel with the rear brake in gear with the clutch in and out there is no discernable change in the engine sound and no tendency to stall the motor meaning the clutch is mostly disengaged with very little drag, same as I was describing above. And it will clunk gear changes w/o a load on the drive line on the rear stand like that. It didn’t do that before changing the lever though. This is definitely more force than viscous drag. It doesn’t slow down when pulling the lever, nor does a carefully placed object against the tire slow it down. I didn’t get a chance to mess with it today, but I will try when I get home from work in the morning. Edited January 11, 2021 by OkieMedic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michigan400 Posted January 14, 2021 Share Posted January 14, 2021 Mine has done that a little since day one as brand new. The MT/FZ 07 does not have a "Honda" gearbox in it sorry to say. It is notchy and clunky and likes to creep a little in gear when at a stand still. If you can feel it,, but still hold it back easily then it's probably just "normal" and will most likely lessen when fully warmed up and after driving for a while. It mainly will do it when cold. If your cable is too tight then the clutch won't fully engage and will always slip a little. That is a bigger concern vs. a little bit of creep. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shinyribs Posted January 15, 2021 Share Posted January 15, 2021 Your clutch isn't fully disengaging if the bike is creeping forward when you're sitting in gear with the clutch lever pulled. If the bike is trying to creep that hard, and you're holding the bike in place with you legs/brakes, then the clutch discs are constantly dragging and being prematurely worn away by this scenario. I would highly suggest fixing that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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