Premium Member blackout Posted January 10, 2021 Author Premium Member Share Posted January 10, 2021 The XSR700 has less room under the seat than the FZ07. The Hordpower airbox opened up some space so I welded up an aluminum box to house the Power Commander and Autotune. So much of these projects need to be anodized black at some point. I use 5xxx filler rod as it anodizes better than 4xxx filler rod. (Sorry, forget the exact number and too lazy to check. I can check if needed.) 5086 is my favorite sheet aluminum to weld as it does not need filler rod to weld if the joint is tight with no gaps and does not require extra joint strength. All other aluminum can hot crack after welded if not enough filler is used, especially 6061. Why people weld 6061 sheet is beyond me. 5086 is also more corrosion resistant than 6061. 5086 is weaker, but some what moot since 6061 will lose its strength once welded, unless heat treated. 6 Craig Mapstone Upstate New York Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member cornerslider Posted January 10, 2021 Premium Member Share Posted January 10, 2021 Nice build!!! I have a couple questions: 1) Why the XSR over the MT? Aren't they the same frame/motor? Is there something I'm missing? 2) What kind of work do you do? You fabricate some really nice stuff!!!! I'm a Journeyman Steamfitter/Certified welding inspector. Most folks "think" they can weld aluminum, you obviously know what your doing. Nice stuff - 2 ""W.O.T. until you see god, then brake" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
klx678 Posted January 10, 2021 Share Posted January 10, 2021 Why not the XSR? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member cornerslider Posted January 10, 2021 Premium Member Share Posted January 10, 2021 13 minutes ago, klx678 said: Why not the XSR? Nothing against the XSR, I just wondered if there was a difference? I know @blackout built a nice FZ-07 for the track, and wondered if their was a difference I don't know about? ""W.O.T. until you see god, then brake" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member blackout Posted January 10, 2021 Author Premium Member Share Posted January 10, 2021 1 hour ago, cornerslider said: Nice build!!! I have a couple questions: 1) Why the XSR over the MT? Aren't they the same frame/motor? Is there something I'm missing? 2) What kind of work do you do? You fabricate some really nice stuff!!!! I'm a Journeyman Steamfitter/Certified welding inspector. Most folks "think" they can weld aluminum, you obviously know what your doing. Nice stuff ">- Thanks! Just like the look of the XSR for a naked street bike. Wanted something retro looking. Yes, the frame/motor/suspension are all the same. I have a Masters in Manufacturing Engineering, but I own a small business that really does not use that degree. Welding looks easy but is actually quite tricky as you know, especially aluminum. I'm just a hobby welder, but slowly getting better with these projects. 5 Craig Mapstone Upstate New York Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
klx678 Posted January 10, 2021 Share Posted January 10, 2021 4 hours ago, cornerslider said: Nothing against the XSR, I just wondered if there was a difference? I know @blackout built a nice FZ-07 for the track, and wondered if their was a difference I don't know about? Ah, background information I didn't have... Now we know why... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member blackout Posted January 13, 2021 Author Premium Member Share Posted January 13, 2021 Added a quick shifter and converted the XSR700 to race shift. Now both bikes shift the same direction... I drilled out the stock heim joint on the stock shifter so I could mount it on the opposite side. This was needed to clear the stock frame cover. I drilled it out too large, 5/16", so I had to add a spacer for the 6mm fastener. My mistake was not centering the first drill. If you get it centered perfectly, you can drill it to 6mm. You will still want a 6mm fender washer between the new heim joint and shifter because of the bevel left from the rivited stock heim joint. 2 Craig Mapstone Upstate New York Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArturoM07 Posted January 15, 2021 Share Posted January 15, 2021 On 1/13/2021 at 2:35 PM, blackout said: Added a quick shifter and converted the XSR700 to race shift. Now both bikes shift the same direction... I drilled out the stock heim joint on the stock shifter so I could mount it on the opposite side. This was needed to clear the stock frame cover. I drilled it out too large, 5/16", so I had to add a spacer for the 6mm fastener. My mistake was not centering the first drill. If you get it centered perfectly, you can drill it to 6mm. You will still want a 6mm fender washer between the new heim joint and shifter because of the bevel left from the rivited stock heim joint. Hi Blackout, What is the goal you have with your Xsr? I took mine I have a Mt-07 and the best time I have done is 10.86@119mph 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArturoM07 Posted January 15, 2021 Share Posted January 15, 2021 Here in the track 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member blackout Posted January 15, 2021 Author Premium Member Share Posted January 15, 2021 47 minutes ago, ArturoM07 said: Hi Blackout, What is the goal you have with your Xsr? I took mine I have a Mt-07 and the best time I have done is 10.86@119mph That time is fantastic! My goal, as fast as possible. Lol. Sadly, my closest track mostly runs 1/8 mile even though it is plenty long. Its IHRA, so mostly 1/8th. Craig Mapstone Upstate New York Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArturoM07 Posted January 15, 2021 Share Posted January 15, 2021 19 hours ago, blackout said: That time is fantastic! My goal, as fast as possible. Lol. Sadly, my closest track mostly runs 1/8 mile even though it is plenty long. Its IHRA, so mostly 1/8th. I looking for good cams to my mt. Im still stock engine 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joaoduarte Posted January 16, 2021 Share Posted January 16, 2021 @ArturoM07 can you also post mods list? Or a link to your build for curiosity, that time was insane. @blackout iam also using power commander and autotune on mine, do you have Quickshift ser by gear and mapping by gear? Or you will use same map and kill time for each gear? In case you set it up by gear, how do you connected the speed sensor to the power commander to calibrate it? Iam trying to figure how but i cant find it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member blackout Posted January 16, 2021 Author Premium Member Share Posted January 16, 2021 5 hours ago, Joaoduarte said: @ArturoM07 can you also post mods list? Or a link to your build for curiosity, that time was insane. @blackout iam also using power commander and autotune on mine, do you have Quickshift ser by gear and mapping by gear? Or you will use same map and kill time for each gear? In case you set it up by gear, how do you connected the speed sensor to the power commander to calibrate it? Iam trying to figure how but i cant find it I can't help on how to use the speed sensor input on the PCV. Hadn't even thought of hooking it up, but you have me thinking now and I'll look into it and see what I come up with. Now that I think of it, I believe the Hord PCV map is per gear. I'll have to look for the file on my laptop, it's been a couple years. If I find the file, I'll probably make that my base map for startup. Craig Mapstone Upstate New York Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joaoduarte Posted January 16, 2021 Share Posted January 16, 2021 (edited) It is by map, i got the file of hords map, and there are differences on fueling per gear in the low and mid throtle %. If you dont find the file tell me something i can send it to you Also the problem is the kill times of the quickshifter, because if from 1 to 2 55ms is fine from 4 to 5 or 5 to 6 55ms can be just too much and we will end up loosing some time wich translates to a slower performance Edited January 16, 2021 by Joaoduarte 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stickshift Posted January 18, 2021 Share Posted January 18, 2021 On 1/16/2021 at 7:48 PM, Joaoduarte said: iam also using power commander and autotune on mine, do you have Quickshift ser by gear and mapping by gear? Or you will use same map and kill time for each gear? In case you set it up by gear, how do you connected the speed sensor to the power commander to calibrate it? Iam trying to figure how but i cant find it You need to connect a wire from the speed sensor to the correct input on the PCV (5th port from the left, see instructions). You then need to calibrate the PCV (via laptop & dynojet software) so it knows what gear the bike is in. You need a rear stand (or dyno) for this. You don’t have to calibrate the speed to use per gear fuel maps, this video shows how to do both. Speed and Gear Calibration | Dynojet In this video we discuss the Power Commander 5 optional speed and gear inputs. We go over how to connect, configure, and calibrate these inputs. Check out the video below! These are the values that ended up in my gear calibration table: 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member blackout Posted January 18, 2021 Author Premium Member Share Posted January 18, 2021 59 minutes ago, stickshift said: You need to connect a wire from the speed sensor to the correct input on the PCV (5th port from the left, see instructions). You then need to calibrate the PCV (via laptop & dynojet software) so it knows what gear the bike is in. You need a rear stand (or dyno) for this. You don’t have to calibrate the speed to use per gear fuel maps, this video shows how to do both. Speed and Gear Calibration | Dynojet In this video we discuss the Power Commander 5 optional speed and gear inputs. We go over how to connect, configure, and calibrate these inputs. Check out the video below! These are the values that ended up in my gear calibration table: Cool, thanks! Craig Mapstone Upstate New York Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joaoduarte Posted January 18, 2021 Share Posted January 18, 2021 5 hours ago, blackout said: 6 hours ago, stickshift said: You need to connect a wire from the speed sensor to the correct input on the PCV (5th port from the left, see instructions). You then need to calibrate the PCV (via laptop & dynojet software) so it knows what gear the bike is in. You need a rear stand (or dyno) for this. You don’t have to calibrate the speed to use per gear fuel maps, this video shows how to do both. Speed and Gear Calibration | Dynojet In this video we discuss the Power Commander 5 optional speed and gear inputs. We go over how to connect, configure, and calibrate these inputs. Check out the video below! These are the values that ended up in my gear calibration table: Damm still could not understand it. So in your case you used speed sensor or that analog input that they speak of. Also could you post a picture of how you connected it. I cant pin point the wire to tap into. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member blackout Posted February 2, 2021 Author Premium Member Share Posted February 2, 2021 Measuring the stock swingarm the best I can with what tools I have. 3 Craig Mapstone Upstate New York Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member blackout Posted February 2, 2021 Author Premium Member Share Posted February 2, 2021 Two important tools, a tube bender and a fish mouth cutting jig. Both from Pro Tools out of Florida. 2 Craig Mapstone Upstate New York Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member blackout Posted February 2, 2021 Author Premium Member Share Posted February 2, 2021 The new swingarm slowly coming along in the jig. 8 Craig Mapstone Upstate New York Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArturoM07 Posted February 7, 2021 Share Posted February 7, 2021 On 1/16/2021 at 3:48 AM, Joaoduarte said: @ArturoM07 can you also post mods list? Or a link to your build for curiosity, that time was insane. @blackout iam also using power commander and autotune on mine, do you have Quickshift ser by gear and mapping by gear? Or you will use same map and kill time for each gear? In case you set it up by gear, how do you connected the speed sensor to the power commander to calibrate it? Iam trying to figure how but i cant find it @Joaoduarte Custom Intake, M4 Full System, 45t sproket, Swing arm extension, Power commander (in 10.86 pass), MR12, Shinko Drag Tire and My Driver only weight 112lbs with uniform, He is my Driver and Tunner. Stock Internals 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joaoduarte Posted February 7, 2021 Share Posted February 7, 2021 Crazy fast! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member blackout Posted February 7, 2021 Author Premium Member Share Posted February 7, 2021 13 hours ago, ArturoM07 said: @Joaoduarte Custom Intake, M4 Full System, 45t sproket, Swing arm extension, Power commander (in 10.86 pass), MR12, Shinko Drag Tire and My Driver only weight 112lbs with uniform, He is my Driver and Tunner. Stock Internals My local track is mostly 1/8 mile. Any thoughts on whether a 45 tooth sprocket would require me to upshift just before the 1/8 mile traps? Last fall I was racing with no visible tachometer so I don't know how close I was to the redline at the 1/8 mile. Thanks! Craig Mapstone Upstate New York Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member blackout Posted February 28, 2021 Author Premium Member Share Posted February 28, 2021 The main swingarm tubes are tacked and tested fitted well. I wanted to confirm I took measurements correctly and it looks like I did. I still can shim the swingarm left and right up to .08" if needed, but looks good. The bends look to clear the foot control components fine. There will be a 1" tube trestle structure that I need to add once it goes back into the jig. The mount for the shock bellcrank will be bolt-on. That is what the 3/8" hole in the cross member is for. This will allow changes to motion ratio and ride height by changing location of the bellcrank pivot. Swingarm is at 7.5 inches over as shown. 8 Craig Mapstone Upstate New York Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member blackout Posted March 1, 2021 Author Premium Member Share Posted March 1, 2021 Right trestle piece mocked up. The clearance issue for the new frame pivot position is shown in close up. It looks fine now because the bushings are in the down position, but once they are rotated 180 degrees that's where it gets close and I may have to relocate or remove the abs braking junction block. No big deal, just something I have been considering. 4 Craig Mapstone Upstate New York Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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