Brake prep knowledge

[50Joe]

Thought I'd pass along my 13+ years of racing knowledge regarding brake preparation and how even a stock system can be made to work awesome without spending big bucks.  Little background knowledge first. I had a strong reputation as a very late, hard braker on the track. Word was if you were going to try to outbrake me, you will end up in the kitty litter. I also like a brake feel with STRONG initial bite. I do not like a progressive lever feel. I like strong right away and keep it there. With that in mind brake pad selection is the most critical item. So, here we go.

Brake pads: I absolutely love Vesrah pads. They make different compounds but I like their SRJL pads. I always raced light weight bikes and these pads gave a super strong initial bite and stayed there. I could float the rear wheel using one finger on the brake lever but usually used two.

Rotor preparation: This is more important than you think. Bead blasting the brake areas is the absolute best way to prep them. Second best is a rotor hone tool. Those can be bought cheap and used with a drill. Using a very low drill speed and taking your time is the best way to use this tool. Create a cross hatch pattern similar to when a cylinder gets honed. I would bead blast my rotors every time the pads got changed. If you change pad brand or compound you definitely need to blast the rotors. Brake pads can heat cycle out just like slicks can. I only run my pads to 1/2 way down and then change them. This also helps prevent brake fade.

Brake fluid. I flush my brake fluid twice per year. I only use Motul RBF600 or RBF660. Best stuff out there in my opinion.

Brake lines: Upgrade to steel braided or equivalent.

Calipers: Remove the pads and make sure EVERYTHING is spotless. Move the pistons out a wee bit and make sure there is no dirt on them or a ledge built up. Make sure the retaining pin is clean and has no grove marks worn into it. You should be able to push the pistons into the caliper by hand fairly easily. If not, you have a problem.

If you do all this prep at one time and are very thorough, be careful the first time you go riding because I will guarantee you that you will have a holy shet moment the first time you grab the lever with even a little bit of force. You will think you spent $3k on a whole new fancy system when in reality new pads, brake fluid, rotor hone tool, and brake lines will only set you back a few hundred dollars.

Edited August 5, 2020 by 50Joe
wrong word used

[Spatt]

You’re making a mistake by blasting if staying with the same pads.  You’re removing the adherent layer.

 Your pads don’t stop steel to brake pad.  The rotor is just a carrier for the deposit of pad material.  if you remove it you have to build it back up. That’s what beading pads does, deposits that layer.  
 

Rest is solid info.  Check out Z04 pads if you really want to stop.  They aren’t cheap but the performance is just silly.  They only produce them once a year so it’s not always in stock but they are worth the cost of admission.  

[50Joe]

On 9/8/2020 at 1:32 AM, Spatt said:

You’re making a mistake by blasting if staying with the same pads.  You’re removing the adherent layer.

 Your pads don’t stop steel to brake pad.  The rotor is just a carrier for the deposit of pad material.  if you remove it you have to build it back up. That’s what beading pads does, deposits that layer.  
 

Rest is solid info.  Check out Z04 pads if you really want to stop.  They aren’t cheap but the performance is just silly.  They only produce them once a year so it’s not always in stock but they are worth the cost of admission.  

Vesrah is the source who told me to blast the rotors. But, I only did that at the start of the season and with new brake pads so you are probably right.