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50Joe

Wheel bearing question

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50Joe

I've got two sets of wheels for my 2015 FZ07. A friend used a bearing puller (I watched) to remove the wheel bearings to have the wheels powder coated. I decided to reuse the bearings because they are in great shape and have few miles on them.  The bearings went into the front wheel easier than when I have done this on other bikes wheels. Still, there is some interference fit. The large bearing on the back wheel (brake rotor side) took what I consider to be "normal" force to drive it in. Here's the issue. On each wheel the bearing that goes in the hub area on the sprocket side can be put in by hand. I tried both bearings on each rear wheel and the fit is nearly identical. I've never experienced this before and do you think this is a problem or once the rear wheel is torqued down to spec all will be right in the world? Pic is of the bearing that slides into the hub on the rear wheel.

Bearing.jpg

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rfmueller

I played that game last fall.  Same situation on my FZ07.  The bearings weren't what I call "tight". 

One thing did come back to haunt me:  The bushing between the frame and bearing can be mounted crooked, but look correct.  I noticed run-out on the rear sprocket and thought the sprocket was bent.  Spent a lot of time and money getting spare parts thinking I'd trashed it all out due to vibration.  In the end, the bushing wasn't seated flat on the chain side.  Once those were sitting correctly, all was perfect again.  BigTurboMax walked me through the issue at the time.  

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50Joe
7 minutes ago, rfmueller said:

I played that game last fall.  Same situation on my FZ07.  The bearings weren't what I call "tight". 

One thing did come back to haunt me:  The bushing between the frame and bearing can be mounted crooked, but look correct.  I noticed run-out on the rear sprocket and thought the sprocket was bent.  Spent a lot of time and money getting spare parts thinking I'd trashed it all out due to vibration.  In the end, the bushing wasn't seated flat on the chain side.  Once those were sitting correctly, all was perfect again.  BigTurboMax walked me through the issue at the time.  

So you just left the bearings as is and no issues?

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mossrider

I've had 5 sets of stock wheels at one time or another. All of them were what I'd call budget bike fit, or toward the lame end of a good tight fit. I think I even put loctight on one bearing, I won't say for sure because I won't endorse that. When she's all together I've never had a prob.

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50Joe
1 hour ago, mossrider said:

I've had 5 sets of stock wheels at one time or another. All of them were what I'd call budget bike fit, or toward the lame end of a good tight fit. I think I even put loctight on one bearing, I won't say for sure because I won't endorse that. When she's all together I've never had a prob.

I did the loctite dealio on the front wheel bearings even though I had some resistance but I felt it wasn't very much so I used it. The bearing I'm asking about can literally be pushed in and out by hand. It doesn't rattle around but still, it should have more resistance. There is the sprocket carrier right next to it that also has a bearing so not sure if that would prevent an issue during use???

I even used loctite on the bearing races of the crankshaft in my RZ engine based 2T race bikes. Aftermarket cranks don't come with the little pins that prevent the bearings from spinning in the cases like the OEM Yamaha crank bearings have. I ruined a very low mileage set of cases and once I started using loctite on the crank bearing races, no more issues even under severe racing conditions.

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mossrider

I've also scarfed up similar bearing surfaces over the years to tighten them a hair when the bearing is pushed in. 

Either way, you'll never have a prob with it.

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ElGonzales

What kind of Loctite do you use for the wheels?
I had a worn out wheel bearing seat at my old 2stroke (Aluminium hub ) and took Loctite 638. Data sheet said: for "cylindrical fitting parts" and able to fill gaps of 0,25 mm. Seemed suitable to me, but I had no real clue what I am doing 🤷‍♂️

Removing with heat works, as I have already tested. 

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peteinpa

If bearings are a press fit they are never re-used.  Period. If inside an engine you replace them also.

Get new ones. Install by only applying force to the race that has the interference fit. No force through the balls or rollers.

Yoy never remove a bearing for inspection, just replace it.

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Got new red 2015 FZ-07 on 7/22/16!
Black 2006 Honda ST1300 53K miles.

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50Joe
1 hour ago, peteinpa said:

If bearings are a press fit they are never re-used.  Period. If inside an engine you replace them also.

Get new ones. Install by only applying force to the race that has the interference fit. No force through the balls or rollers.

Yoy never remove a bearing for inspection, just replace it.

They were removed to get the wheels powder coated. I did put digital calipers on them before installation and the OD was pretty dead nuts on 42mm. Measuring the hub area, depending on where I took the measurement and of course there could be operator error with how I was holding the caliper, resulted in measurements all at 41.9+mm. So, less than 0.1mm interference. Yea, I know to only pound on the outer races.  Since others have experienced the same exact thing me thinks Yamaha got lazy or cheap in their manufacturing process of the wheels for this bike. After all, it is a fairly low budget bike and not an R1M.

I'll add that having the exact same condition on two rear wheels and swapping bearing between them makes no difference that my assumption about Yamaha is accurate. The aluminum seems rather forgiving compared to other wheels I have worked with before. Will new bearings help and give me the interference fit I desire? I highly doubt it based on my measurements.

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rfmueller
On 7/31/2020 at 7:12 PM, 50Joe said:

So you just left the bearings as is and no issues?

No issues.

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