*solved*Rough idle/stall after M4 slip on and ECU flash

[RETTGAR]

Hi all, 2015 FZ07 with 32,000kms on it. Things were running fine before but I just got an M4 slip on and got my ECU flashed at a local tuner who is well know I’m my city and done a lot of FZ’a before. 
 

After the changed the bike is struggling to hold a steady idle. It seems to be an issue when cold and warm/hot. It won’t struggle sitting at red light but only when shut off and back on or sitting idling for about 1-2mins. I’m also not sure if related but I am getting a lot of popping in the exhaust on deceleration. Also when idling if I blip the throttle it always dies on the third blip. The bike runs awesome once moving, pulls well and no hesitation. 

the tuner tried three maps to see but it didn’t seem to make a difference. The exhaust had a slight leak but we also corrected that and still it’s an issue. The tuner recommends valve adjustment, throttle body sync, and plugs given the mileage it’s sort of due anyway. 
 

wondering if anyone has any insight. I have some videos and will try to figure out how to post them later. 
 

sorry for the long post, just wanted all the info on the table. 
 

**edit** problem has been solved. It was ECU related. I’m not entirely sure what my tuner did but I know he did a hard reset on the ECU and reflashed with his custom made dyno tune. It’s working great now, took him a couple of hrs trying different ECU settings. Thanks for the help!

Edited May 24, 2020 by RETTGAR

[mossrider]

1 hour ago, RETTGAR said:

Hi all, 2015 FZ07 with 32,000kms on it. Things were running fine before but I just got an M4 slip on and got my ECU flashed at a local tuner who is well know I’m my city and done a lot of FZ’a before. 
 

After the changed the bike is struggling to hold a steady idle. It seems to be an issue when cold and warm/hot. It won’t struggle sitting at red light but only when shut off and back on or sitting idling for about 1-2mins. I’m also not sure if related but I am getting a lot of popping in the exhaust on deceleration. Also when idling if I blip the throttle it always dies on the third blip. The bike runs awesome once moving, pulls well and no hesitation. 

the tuner tried three maps to see but it didn’t seem to make a difference. The exhaust had a slight leak but we also corrected that and still it’s an issue. The tuner recommends valve adjustment, throttle body sync, and plugs given the mileage it’s sort of due anyway. 
 

wondering if anyone has any insight. I have some videos and will try to figure out how to post them later. 
 

sorry for the long post, just wanted all the info on the table. 

Tough to diagnose long distance but I'll throw out the obvious. I'm not familiar with your tuners work so well assume nothing.  You have the air temp sensor at the right front of the fuel tank plugged in? That'll give problems. The idle set properly? You mentioned plugs and tune up/tb sync that's good too. The M4 is a slip on that reuses the header pipes after cutting. Did you replace the O2 sensor?  The fact that different maps make no change suggests something is unhooked or not working.

Good luck.

[RETTGAR]

Thanks for the reply, the tuner mentioned he bypassed the O2 sensor. It’s plugged in. 
 

air temp sensor and idle setting seems fine. 
 

here is a link to two videos hot and cold engine temps. I’m not blipping the throttle in them until the very end of the Cold temp video. 
 

anymore thoughts? 
https://photos.app.goo.gl/dnuRGbVSufUMBhZ19

[mossrider]

Just now, RETTGAR said:

Thanks for the reply, the tuner mentioned he bypassed the O2 sensor. It’s plugged in. 
 

air temp sensor and idle setting seems fine. 
 

here is a link to two videos hot and cold engine temps. I’m not blipping the throttle in them until the very end of the Cold temp video. 
 

anymore thoughts? 
https://photos.app.goo.gl/dnuRGbVSufUMBhZ19

I'd run some Seafoam and injector cleaner thru it. But I think I'd reconnect your O2 sensor at least for a verification test, costs you zilch and takes virtually no effort to see what happens. I think she'll shape up.

[shinyribs]

If the bike was running fine before I would suspect the issue to be related only to what is new to the bike. The synch didn't move, the plugs didn't erode and the injectors didn't gum up while installing new parts. The exhaust alone won't cause a struggle to idle. Personally, I would suspect the ecu and/or the unplugged O2 sensor, but that strictly a suspicion. No disrespect to the tuner. 

[geophb]

What @shinyribs said.

Flash back to stock see if it goes away before doing any thing. O2 unplugged shouldn't affect the idle that bad, maybe though.  That said your at 20k miles I would do spark plugs (escpecially if they are original), throttle body sync, and valve adjustment anyway, regardless of your issues.

Maintenance first, mods after. 

[RETTGAR]

Anyone have a good map for the M4, I think my tuner was using a map from Graves for a full system, stock box removed snorkel? I think this is ECU related, seems to be  similar issues posted here:

Stall / low RPM performance issue resolution...... | FZ 07 Owners Club

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After 2,000 miles of poor performance, dealers telling me I "don't know how to ride a sport bike", and other such...

 

[RETTGAR]

Hmm just gave it another run too. Found that the issue doesn’t start until the bike is warm and gets worse as the engine temp rises. Starts around 76C (170F) and runs really rough around 90C (194F) and stalled when it got to 93C (199F). 
 

the engine temps leads me to think it’s maybe a valve clearance thing? Although as mentioned it seemed fine before the tune. Note I’ve only had this bike for a few months so maybe the warm weather is playing a role (in Canada). 

valve clearances are due by the manual at 41,000kms and I’m at 33,000kms

 

any other thoughts? Going back to the tuner (hopefully tomorrow) to try back to stock, seems he bypassed the o2 on the ECU not by unplugging it.