Power Loss

[DarkWingDuck]

I recently replaced my original battery on my 2015' after it was sitting for a year (no excuses). I rode it right after replacement and all was good. The next day I rode it for about 15 minutes until I reached a stop sign and decided to feel that torque a bit on takeoff. Front wheel lifted literally 1ft max, when I landed the bike completely shut down. No display, nada. I checked the battery (12V), checked the voltage from the battery cables to the fuse box(12v) and I checked all fuses I could find under the seat and all are good. Still no power, no display or lights.

My new throttle tube arrived now and  unable to test it!

Any suggestions?!

Thanks, 

DWD

 

[DarkWingDuck]

I Did notice the positive wire sleeve right on the neck seemed to be damaged slightly where it was in contact with the seat bracket. Still,with all connected I get the 12v at the fuse box which I would assume gets me the power needed for the bike to turn on...

[rfmueller]

If there's no power after the fuse box, but you have power TO the fuse box, you have a bad connection at the fuse fox.  

Sounds like you also have access to a DVM.  That's very useful.  Begin checking at various places on your bike for 12 volts with the key in the on position.  From the sounds of your problem, the 12v feeding the ECU and Monitor, and everything else, is not present, and that indicates what should be a very simple fix.  Don't leave out the ignition switch (key switch) itself.   Those do fail, and will also result in a problem like you are having. 

What happened just before you lost power?  You gave the bike a sudden jolt.  Connections, connections, connections, connections.    Did I mention that it was also important to verify your connections?   

Remember to double check the black cable on your battery as well:  No return loop, means no power moves.

One last thing:  Find your relays, especially the main power relay, and reseat it.  It's also very likely that the female socket has opened up somewhat and some carbon is in it.  You can add a slight bend to all of the male contacts of the relay itself and jam it back in the socket.  I've had that exact problem which resulted in what you've described.

[DarkWingDuck]

Thanks for the reply. I didn't check voltage yet at ignition switch or Ecu.. Gotta figure that outright now.

Referencing "sudden jolt" I just gave it enough throttle to lift front tire up a bit. No flickering of display of any noticeable power fluctuations prior. I think it has something to do with the positive sleeve getting damaged due to contact with the seat bracket. Possibly shorting when I landed, it stripped the wire  where it contacts the metal seat bracket? I'm not too savy with electrical so not sure what that contact/ straffing would cause.

Once I check ignition switch and ecu voltage we'll go from there. Thanks!

[stickshift]

Have you checked the main fuse (under the starter relay cover, under seat)?

That should be the first one to blow when you have a major short circuit.

[DarkWingDuck]

Main fuse is good. Even replaced to be sure. When I turn the key to the on position the voltage at the battery drops significant to around 5v.

 

[Eastern Kayaker]

There was a recall for some 2015 FZ-07’s due to the fact the positive battery cable could touch a bracket and cause a short or fire. Do you know if the battery cable recall fix was done on your bike? 

[DarkWingDuck]

It was not. Got it new at the dealership and I noticed how the bracket could be an issue with the cable when I switched the battery. I'll probably need to take it in for the recall if it's not too late. Currently charging the battery with a tender, hopefully the bike will turn on and I could ride it to the shop.

 

[DarkWingDuck]

so I tried charging the battery with a tender for 6hrs and got the same reult. 12v at the battery when bike off and voltage  drops below 6v simply turning the key to the on position.(display won't be on or any lights). fuses are all good. I'm ordering a replacement positive battery wire and another new battery. 

[geophb]

16 hours ago, DarkWingDuck said:

so I tried charging the battery with a tender for 6hrs and got the same reult. 12v at the battery when bike off and voltage  drops below 6v simply turning the key to the on position.(display won't be on or any lights). fuses are all good. I'm ordering a replacement positive battery wire and another new battery. 

Just for future. Any "12v" battery should be about 12.4v or more to be considered charged fully. 12.0v would be considered low.  Also a battery tender is not designed to and will be ineffective at charging batteries, only to maintain voltage. A brand new battery off the shelf needs to be charged before use. 

[rfmueller]

Sounds like your lead-acid battery is toast:  Bring them low for too long and it kills them even though they will read 12v; there's no power behind the voltage.