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Split link.. yes or no?


Jord

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Hi all, just after some advice. What’s the general feeling on using a split link instead of a riveted master link. I’ve bought a new chain but I don’t have the tool to do the rivet, plus i like the idea of a split link so the chain is easily removed in the future to make other work easier. I’ve always used them on dirt bikes and never had an issue. 

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I've used split links on street bike in the past without issue on 450-600cc bikes used for normal non-aggressive street use. But with that being said,  I now own a proper riveting tool and rivet my chains.  

My opinion is to use a split link, if you don't have a buddy you can borrow a tool from, while you save up money for a proper rivet tool. Don't buy a cheap tool or you'll just have to buy another tool in short order. 

Good Luck. ✌️

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DewMan
 
Just shut up and ride.

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cornerslider

I've used the split style master link for many years, and never gave it a second thought. That was until I lost a chain on the interstate in heavy traffic. Lucky for me it let go at exactly the right time. It didn't bind up the rear wheel, fly into the engine cases (destroying them/adding oil to the rear tire), or hit my left leg/injury. It just fell on the road, and I was stranded. That was 22 years ago, and I learned quite a bit that day. I used to be one of those guys that neglected my chain- as long as it wasn't "hanging" loose, I didn't really care? I'd shoot some WD-40 on the chain when I changed the engine oil & filter, (mainly to keep it from rusting). After that day 22 years ago, I went to a riveted-style master link. I lube my chain with proper chain lube about every 300-500 miles. In the off season, I give the chain & sprockets a thorough cleaning in Kerosene. Between my wife & I, we have four bikes- I do this to every bike in the garage. If you buy good chains, and take care of them, they last a long time. "Motion-Pro" makes a nice rivet tool for about $70. Buy it once, and your'e set for life. Good luck-

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""W.O.T. until you see god, then brake"

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I have never had a clip on master link fail. I run low budget chains on my dirt bikes because the grit and grime eat them up quicker than the metal will wear out anyway. No point buying expensive chains just to full them with sand. 

But since things move so fast on the street, I only run DID chains and the difference is worth the money. They are gonna come with a rivet link anyway.

Years ago ( maybe things have changed) I bought one of the cheap chain tools that Cycle Gear sells for $25 around Christmas time. It looks almost identical to my buddy's Motion Pro chain tool. The pins and parts all interchange. I'm not saying they are the same tool. There is a surface finish difference that proves they aren't. But I believe the "cheap" tool was intentionally modeled after the MP tool. 

My buddy with the MP tool has borrowed my pins in the past when his folded over or snapped. I've done dozens of chains and am happy with the tool. Would say I would say I would buy it again, but I don't think I'll ever wear it out. 

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Ok, thanks for the advice. sounds like people are not comfortable with the split link. I’ve order a DID chain that is coming with a rivert style master link but I also bought a separate split link to match the chain. I think il use the split link until I can get it to a garage to have them swap it out and use the riveted link (when garages are back open and we are allowed out)

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I'm 66 been riding since around 1970 and never had issue with any chain with one exception in 1971 when I probably put the master link clip on backward and it got knocked off as the chain slid through the chain tensioner on the Sherpa T.  My fault.

 

 The closed end leads as the chain spins forwart on the top run.  Plus the link can be safety wired easily with an O-ring chain.  

HOSTIL1_ZX12R_DSCN1750.jpg

Here is a way to safety wire should you lose a clip:

Master%20Link%20Wired.jpg

Last but not least there is another additional approach - RTV over the master link.

SiliconMasterLink.jpg

I have no worries on the street.  The likelihood of having a situation that would knock off a properly seatec master link clip is maybe on par with being struck by lightning.   Squeeze the side plate on completely then make sure the clip seats in the grooves properly and it should be good to go.  But safety wire will lock it down in the grooves.

 

 

 

Edited by klx678
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28 minutes ago, klx678 said:

I'm 66 been riding since around 1970 and never had issue with any chain with one exception in 1971 when I probably put the master link clip on backward and it got knocked off as the chain slid through the chain tensioner on the Sherpa T.  My fault.

 

 The closed end leads as the chain spins forwart on the top run.  Plus the link can be safety wired easily with an O-ring chain.  

HOSTIL1_ZX12R_DSCN1750.jpg

Here is a way to safety wire should you lose a clip:

Master%20Link%20Wired.jpg

Last but not least there is another additional approach - RTV over the master link.

SiliconMasterLink.jpg

I have no worries on the street.  The likelihood of having a situation that would knock off a properly seatec master link clip is maybe on par with being struck by lightning.   Squeeze the side plate on completely then make sure the clip seats in the grooves properly and it should be good to go.  But safety wire will lock it down in the grooves.

 

 

 

That's very good safety wire tips !

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I've just changed to an endless DID chain. They sell them closed, I throw it on the gears, a little bit of cleaning and greasing everything  - ready to go :)

WP_20200118_18_22_31_Pro_SMALL.thumb.jpg.d02f2f4f54d242c0db32fa9c09893703.jpg

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Just my opinion and I could be wrong but I would be scared to use safety wire in place of a proper clip.

DewMan
 
Just shut up and ride.

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How do you fit an endless chain ??  Thansnk for the safety wire tip @KLX. It will be an extra fail safe around the clip for piece of mind. I do like the idea of being able to split the chain to do other maintenance and cleaning but I think it will always be in the back of my mind when hitting any kind of speed. After all, there must be a reason why DID supply there chains with the rivet type link. I’m going to use the split link until I can get to a garage and get the rivert fitted. 

Edited by Jord
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2 hours ago, klx678 said:

I'm 66 been riding since around 1970 and never had issue with any chain with one exception in 1971 when I probably put the master link clip on backward and it got knocked off as the chain slid through the chain tensioner on the Sherpa T.  My fault.

 

 The closed end leads as the chain spins forwart on the top run.  Plus the link can be safety wired easily with an O-ring chain.  

HOSTIL1_ZX12R_DSCN1750.jpg

Here is a way to safety wire should you lose a clip:

Master%20Link%20Wired.jpg

Last but not least there is another additional approach - RTV over the master link.

SiliconMasterLink.jpg

I have no worries on the street.  The likelihood of having a situation that would knock off a properly seatec master link clip is maybe on par with being struck by lightning.   Squeeze the side plate on completely then make sure the clip seats in the grooves properly and it should be good to go.  But safety wire will lock it down in the grooves.

 

 

 

Used to do the safety wire method back in the 90’s when we were racing, never had a problem back then.

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1 hour ago, Jord said:

How do you fit an endless chain ?? 

You have to move the left footrest bracket 1-2 centimeters  (maybe ~0.8 inches?) away from the bike. Therefore you remove the left footrest assembly, loose the nut of the pivot shaft (right side, covered by plastic cap) some turns and push the shaft a little bit to the left.
4 screws I think, thats all, then you have enough space to remove the old chain without cutting it and  install an new endless chain.
But I disassembled the whole linkage stuff anyway and did cleaning and greasing for maintenance.

Edited by ElGonzales
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22 minutes ago, ElGonzales said:

You have to move the left footrest bracket 1-2 centimeters  (maybe ~0.8 inches?) away from the bike. Therefore you remove the left footrest assembly, loose the nut of the pivot shaft (right side, covered by plastic cap) some turns and push the shaft a little bit to the left.
4 screws I think, thats all, then you have enough space to remove the old chain without cutting it and  install an new endless chain.
But I disassembled the whole linkage stuff anyway and did cleaning and greasing for maintenance.

Thanks for the info, wish I had looked this method up before buyin the chain. Would of saved some hassle 

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13 minutes ago, Jord said:

Thanks for the info, wish I had looked this method up before buyin the chain. Would of saved some hassle 

It's a lot less "hassle" to rivet a link than to do all the disassembly needed to install an endless chain IMO. 

If you're comfortable doing that much disassembly then you should have no issues riveting a link. 👍

DewMan
 
Just shut up and ride.

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4 hours ago, DewMan said:

Just my opinion and I could be wrong but I would be scared to use safety wire in place of a proper clip.

Not in place of for permanent use, a quick fix in a jam.

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