Hello! I bought a used FZ07 and need a bit of advise

[collinjet]

Hello!

I recently bought a 2016 FZ07 with about 6,200 miles on it. It seems to be in pretty good shape besides being tipped over once and the left side cover has a little scuff, other than that the bike seems to be in pretty good shape. Does anyone know where I can get a replacement for cheap? The bike was also left completey stock so I'm hoping it didn't get abused too much either. This is my second bike after a 2004 Suzuki S40 I had for a couple years and then took about a year off to save up for an FZ. Do you guys have any recommendations as what I should do to make sure it is in perfect operating condition? I plan to change the oil before the season starts but other than that is there anything major I should do?

Thank you guys, I'm really hyped to be able to ride again!

[rfmueller]

EBAY!  You can get new, or like new, parts for 10% of bran new!  Just find the PN from a web site, then plug it in to the ebay search engine.  I've done it multiple times and save a TON of money.  

[iSmkGrnBud]

Check your service manual, Yamaha has included all the checks that should be performed at which mileage intervals. As far as I know for the 8k mile services there isnt too much that has to be physically replaced. Since the bike is 4 years old, I would recommend getting that brake fluid swapped and replacing front and rear brake lines, UV will seriously degrade brake fluid performance and the fluid is hygroscopic, good to change frequently, every 2 years. Other than that just make sure all the other fluids are ok. You already mentioned changing oil, thats a great start. Coolant shouldnt need to be changed until 16k miles, just make sure its at the proper level in radiator and reservoir. Id go through and lubricate all the lubrication points like pivot points, pedals, controls, and lubricate inside your sleeved cables. Make sure chain is at the proper slack and lubed, tire tread is ok and at the proper PSI, check wheel bearings, check brake pads, and check fork bearings. Air filter shouldn't need to be replaced until 24k miles so you're good there. Every other maintenance item should just be replaced when they fail a general inspection. Just do a thorough all around check, really at 6.5k miles nothing should be terribly worn, just the basics. The pre 2018 models had some front suspension issues with a spacer, you can find tons of info for that. Other than that if she checks ok and rides ok, I wouldnt worry about too much.

Edited March 5, 2020 by iSmkGrnBud

[rfmueller]

How does your FZ run?  If it runs fine, then I'd recommend an oil change only.  I used to be an Amsoil dealer, but not any more, so I'd recommend Amsoil.  I'll spare the huge write up on why to use it.  You can find it on the forum if interested.  If you check the Amsoil web site you can find a local distributor that will save you a lot of money.  Ordering retail on line plus shipping is still worth it, but your wallet will be a lot lighter.  Usually locals sell for wholesale price and don't charge shipping.  Good luck.

If the bikes runs rough, it's probably got jelled gas lines.  Acetone (no, I'm not crack) will clean those out.  1/4 cup burned through a full tank over the course of 3 days time.  I've done this MANY times for MCs that sat in a garage too long with old gas in the lines and carburetors.   I've also done it with my FZ more than once.   ATF (yes, automatic transmission fluid) will re-lubricate everything and clean the snot out of that engine, including hard carbon.  Again, I don't take drugs; I just have a few mechanics in the family over the course of 50 years, and they do their own wretching besides finding out what's going on in the real world that isn't controlled by marketing, and they all use it in EVERYTHING for engine cleaning and lubricating.   The parrots will parrot big business and the scholars.  The Scholars are normally bought off.  The ATF has never hurt any of my O2 sensors; never.  I've been using it for over 30 years myself.

Don't waste a dime on water removers.  Contrary to popular propaganda, in spite of water causing an overly lean condition, it WILL NOT hurt your engine!  Water is a fantastic heat absorber.  It takes a HUGE amount of calories to get water to boil, so that heat has to go somewhere.  What does this mean for your engine?  It means that water is providing a wonderful steam cleaning for those cylinders, heads, and valves.  Carbon doesn't stand a chance against steam.  If you want to get the water out, take the bike out on a nice long road trip and open it up a bit.  

 

[collinjet]

The bike seems to run pretty good. I only got to take it for a short spin and the 20 minute ride home in 10 degree Wisconsin weather. I really want to take care of this bike as I spent pretty much all my savings on it (college life). 

Edited March 5, 2020 by collinjet

[mjh937]

@collinjet,I personally would not run ATF or water in any part of my bike.  Just make sure the oil has been changed (change it and the filter if you are unsure, it is cheap insurance).  Revzilla or yamahapartshouse.com has replacement parts (I am not sure what is damaged on your bike) and they are mostly pretty cheap.  The engine is bulletproof and it is a fun bike.  The Owners Manual has the service schedule and if you did not get one it is available online here.

Yamaha Owner's Manuals

 

[cornerslider]

2 hours ago, iSmkGrnBud said:

Check your service manual, Yamaha has included all the checks that should be performed at which mileage intervals. As far as I know for the 8k mile services there isnt too much that has to be physically replaced. Since the bike is 4 years old, I would recommend getting that brake fluid swapped and replacing front and rear brake lines, UV will seriously degrade brake fluid performance and the fluid is hygroscopic, good to change frequently, every 2 years. Other than that just make sure all the other fluids are ok. You already mentioned changing oil, thats a great start. Coolant shouldnt need to be changed until 16k miles, just make sure its at the proper level in radiator and reservoir. Id go through and lubricate all the lubrication points like pivot points, pedals, controls, and lubricate inside your sleeved cables. Make sure chain is at the proper slack and lubed, tire tread is ok and at the proper PSI, check wheel bearings, check brake pads, and check fork bearings. Air filter shouldn't need to be replaced until 24k miles so you're good there. Every other maintenance item should just be replaced when they fail a general inspection. Just do a thorough all around check, really at 6.5k miles nothing should be terribly worn, just the basics. The pre 2018 models had some front suspension issues with a spacer, you can find tons of info for that. Other than that if she checks ok and rides ok, I wouldnt worry about too much.

Of all of the replies, this one seems VERY spot-on to me.... I have a 2016 as well, and have about 9K on mine. Brake lines are frequently ignored, as is brake fluid. I suggest you upgrade the brake lines to braided stainless steel lines. They're a one-time investment that will last for the life of the bike, and offer a "firmer" feel to the brakes. They aren't much more money than OEM brake lines..... I bleed both brakes every spring. Brake fluid absorbs moisture, and will give you problems down the road if not "refreshed" from time to time. I'm not suggesting you bleed the brakes every year, but I think Yamaha recommends every two years? Brake fluid is cheap, and I prefer to keep things "fresh". I would also recommend giving the chain/sprockets a thorough inspection, as most people tend to neglect them as well. Add to that the OEM Yamaha chain isn't really a "premium" chain. If there are "tight" spots/kinks in the chain, replace the chain & sprockets at the same time. Do not be "tempted" to do just the chain. They wear into each other, and need to be replaced as a unit. If not, you're just throwing good money after bad.... I would also consider changing the coolant (just because it is so easy on our bikes). Most modern coolants have lubricating properties that help extend the life of both the water pump, as well as the water pump seals. Other than that, just follow the above post. I doubt you will have any issues. Enjoy the ride-

[Josh2019mt07]

Congrats on the new bike. I would agree with everything that everyone else all ready mentioned above. I would pay particularly close attention to front fork seals for any leaking even with low mileage buying used. And I’m a real big stickler for chain maintenance so I would recommend popping off that front Sprocket coverJust to have a look and clean it up real good if there’s any grimey build up. I’m just south of you here in Iowa and it’s been A pretty mild winter so I’ve been able to ride a lot but I sure as hell never Rode when it was 10°.Damn!  I thought I had balls of steel riding at 32° that’s usually my cut off.Of course I moved here from Phoenix Arizona where I could ride 363 days out of the year no problem. A little different up north e njoy the new bike. 

Edited March 5, 2020 by Josh2019mt07
Fixing grammatical errors

[shinyribs]

Can we please stop telling people to cut their fork spacers?

I know Dave Moss said so, but that's not a good enough reason for everyone to run out and chop on their bikes. He also recommends using the stock rear shock, which anyone who has actually ridden an FZ07 knows is bad. Even Yamaha abandoned the original shock design. 

I hate to see this uninformed blanket advice spreading through the internet like wild fire. The video seems like it just came out, yet I'm seeing people urging others to chop their bikes up all over the place now. I've seen it pushed at least half a dozen times on this forum in the past couple days!

THERE'S NOTHING WRONG WITH YOUR FORK SPACERS...UNLESS MAYBE YOU WEIGH ABOUT 110LBS OR LESS.

DO NOT ADVISE OTHERS TO MODIFY THEIR SUSPENSION UNLESS YOU KNOW EXACTLY WHAT YOU ARE TALKING ABOUT. 

For a very long time the internet was telling everyone their springs were TOO SOFT, and urged them to add preload spacers. Now, the internet is urging people to SHORTEN the stock preload spacers, all because Dave Moss posted a video.

Please stop!!!

[cornerslider]

1 hour ago, shinyribs said:

Can we please stop telling people to cut their fork spacers?

I know Dave Moss said so, but that's not a good enough reason for everyone to run out and chop on their bikes. He also recommends using the stock rear shock, which anyone who has actually ridden an FZ07 knows is bad. Even Yamaha abandoned the original shock design. 

I hate to see this uninformed blanket advice spreading through the internet like wild fire. The video seems like it just came out, yet I'm seeing people urging others to chop their bikes up all over the place now. I've seen it pushed at least half a dozen times on this forum in the past couple days!

THERE'S NOTHING WRONG WITH YOUR FORK SPACERS...UNLESS MAYBE YOU WEIGH ABOUT 110LBS OR LESS.

DO NOT ADVISE OTHERS TO MODIFY THEIR SUSPENSION UNLESS YOU KNOW EXACTLY WHAT YOU ARE TALKING ABOUT. 

For a very long time the internet was telling everyone their springs were TOO SOFT, and urged them to add preload spacers. Now, the internet is urging people to SHORTEN the stock preload spacers, all because Dave Moss posted a video.

Please stop!!!

Thank you @shinyribs for saying what many of us have been thinking!!! 

[shinyribs]

On 3/4/2020 at 9:03 PM, collinjet said:

Hello!

I recently bought a 2016 FZ07 with about 6,200 miles on it. It seems to be in pretty good shape besides being tipped over once and the left side cover has a little scuff, other than that the bike seems to be in pretty good shape. Does anyone know where I can get a replacement for cheap? The bike was also left completey stock so I'm hoping it didn't get abused too much either. This is my second bike after a 2004 Suzuki S40 I had for a couple years and then took about a year off to save up for an FZ. Do you guys have any recommendations as what I should do to make sure it is in perfect operating condition? I plan to change the oil before the season starts but other than that is there anything major I should do?

Thank you guys, I'm really hyped to be able to ride again!

Hey Collinjet, welcome to the forum, and apologies for kinda breezing by you earlier. 

Doing an oil change to know where you stand is a great idea. These bikes have proven to be pretty dang tough, so a once over of the usual items is really all you need to do. Though, with your low miles, I doubt you'll need anything. It'd still be a good idea to have a good look and your chain/sprockets and take a look at the brakes. Also check your tire air pressure just incase it's way off. I think Yamaha calls for 32 psi front and rear, but I'm not sure. You can run a little higher pressure than that, but I wouldn't run any lower. 

Any thing you find you need/want specific advice on, just ask. There's several knowledgeable and friendly guys on here that will be glad to help you out. 

And congrats on the new bike!

[DewMan]

FYI: Stock tire pressure is 33psi front and 36psi in the rear tire. It's a good starting point at least. 

[collinjet]

Is this the correct part for the left side side cover with the yamaha logo on it? 1WS-21711-00-P0

[DewMan]

11 minutes ago, collinjet said:

Is this the correct part for the left side side cover with the yamaha logo on it? 1WS-21711-00-P0

That appears to be the brake side rear piece that fits under the pillion seat. and it's "Mat black" in color.

This is not the (brake) side plastic with the Yamaha badge that is on the tank.

[collinjet]

@DewMan this is the piece im looking for! Thank you for the help! Seems as this parr number is right: 1WS-2137W-00-00

Edited March 6, 2020 by collinjet

[DewMan]

10 hours ago, collinjet said:

@DewMan this is the piece im looking for! Thank you for the help! Seems as this parr number is right: 1WS-2137W-00-00

 

That part # is the clutch side only air scoop without the emblem. You'll need to remove the emblem carefully from the old part to reuse it or buy a new emblem. 

[HulkHogan]

On 3/4/2020 at 8:35 PM, collinjet said:

The bike seems to run pretty good. I only got to take it for a short spin and the 20 minute ride home in 10 degree Wisconsin weather. I really want to take care of this bike as I spent pretty much all my savings on it (college life). 

It should be fine!  Enjoy your motorcycle!

[Beemer]

If it seems OK then it probably is. I wouldn't worry about it being abused, not that it couldn't have but something being 'modified' is usually the indication it might've been (excuse the term) "hot-rodded" and abused. If anything gets sticky or squeaks don't worry, just lube it properly and be on your merry.

[collinjet]

So now that my university went on a corona break I finally got to go home and check out my bike a little more. While I was washing it, I noticed there wasnt much coolant in the reservoir. I ran over to a local store and picked up some Prestone 50/50 mix as I saw a few people were using it and had good things to say about it. 

Any reason why the coolant would be so low?

[cornerslider]

Depends..... Was the radiator itself low as well?  Sometimes dealers leave the resivour  low in an effort to save a buck

[geophb]

Before throwing money at random parts, get a good ride out of it.  Do some basic stuff like: oil change, chain lube/adjust, tire pressure, brake inspect etc.  Then after you ride some you will know what needs to be fixed or changed.  6,000 miles is hardly anything btw.

If you plan on using the prestone, I would drain all the old out first.  Probably doesnt matter but thats what I would do and you get a coolant change out of it.

[Eastern Kayaker]

Before changing coolant understand that there are 2 types of coolant, propylene glycol and ethylene glycol. You can not mix these 2 types of coolant together.  These bikes usually come with the brand Yamacool (ethylene glycol) in them when purchased new.  When not sure what coolant is in the bike, best to replace all the coolant with the same brand+type of coolant.  
 

The coolant reservoir is used to hold any coolant overflow, the bulk of the coolant is in the radiator. The reservoir gets filled to the Fill line.

[collinjet]

I did flush it all out as I had a  gallon of the stuff. Went for a ride today and the engine temp stayed around 170-180. It was so much fun and the bike seemed to perform really well! Thanks guys, I really appreciate the insights as I want to keep the bike for a long time! Have a good one and ill post if I have any other questions

[collinjet]

Hey guys!

So, I've been having an issue with the bike. I think the battery dies quickly. Like if I leave the lights on for 2-3 minutes the bike dies. It says ERR where the time is normally displayed. I left it overnight once and it started so Im not sure if it is a battery problem or what. Anyone have any idea?

[mossrider]

17 minutes ago, collinjet said:

Hey guys!

So, I've been having an issue with the bike. I think the battery dies quickly. Like if I leave the lights on for 2-3 minutes the bike dies. It says ERR where the time is normally displayed. I left it overnight once and it started so Im not sure if it is a battery problem or what. Anyone have any idea?

I'm confused by your question. I'm guessing at what you're asking but,

These bikes have an auto off feature that shuts them off if left unattended and running.