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Trackday #2


fzar

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The opportunity has arose that trackday #2 might be happening on 3/7/20 or 3/8/20 depending on weather again. I can't seem to copy a link to my original First track day thread!! (NBD)

Anyway,  since the first track day in 11/19 I've added, EBC HH sintered F/R (love them) Ohlins Nix-22 cartridges (love them). I think it will be a big improvement over OEM setup and the fact I blew both fork seals at some point during the day @ Hallett. (re-built in between with fork oil @130mm) I have not got the suspension set-up at all, only Ohlins recommended adjustments for the front end that seem flawless compared to the oem rebuild. I got 2 good runs on them.

The first was an awesome road that I frequent, smooth switchbacks, that I found it was way too easy to be going way too fast, even though it didn't feel like I was going remotely as fast as I was. (backed off and took a brain rewiring moment)

Today on my second run I decided to go a different route thats a little more country-fied roads. It was a great ride, but the front wasn't behaving so well with bridges and potholes. I'm okay with that to an extent as its not set-up to be compliant for differences in regular country roads as opposed to the sleek first ride route.( front not dialed in)

Just realised I'm rambling:

So if its a go, I go. I have some time to dial in the front suspension SAG#. The rear on the other hand I can't get the spring out to change from a 140N/mm - 130N/mm  as I don't have a  spring compressor yet!  And I can't get movement on the pre-load collar to back it off.( I'll try some heat)

All in all I look forward to the track day, if it happens in March!! if not April!! etc. And I am seriously considering what to do next as its getting old on the road. Too many factors to consider with safety being paramount for all users of the road. (not that I disregard safety on track) 

P.S- Maybe I should install the old shock and front end, to make it feel like I'm living on the edge at 45 MPH. Kidding👍

 

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Just now, fzar said:

The opportunity has arose that trackday #2 might be happening on 3/7/20 or 3/8/20 depending on weather again. I can't seem to copy a link to my original First track day thread!! (NBD)

Anyway,  since the first track day in 11/19 I've added, EBC HH sintered F/R (love them) Ohlins Nix-22 cartridges (love them). I think it will be a big improvement over OEM setup and the fact I blew both fork seals at some point during the day @ Hallett. (re-built in between with fork oil @130mm) I have not got the suspension set-up at all, only Ohlins recommended adjustments for the front end that seem flawless compared to the oem rebuild. I got 2 good runs on them.

The first was an awesome road that I frequent, smooth switchbacks, that I found it was way too easy to be going way too fast, even though it didn't feel like I was going remotely as fast as I was. (backed off and took a brain rewiring moment)

Today on my second run I decided to go a different route thats a little more country-fied roads. It was a great ride, but the front wasn't behaving so well with bridges and potholes. I'm okay with that to an extent as its not set-up to be compliant for differences in regular country roads as opposed to the sleek first ride route.( front not dialed in)

Just realised I'm rambling:

So if its a go, I go. I have some time to dial in the front suspension SAG#. The rear on the other hand I can't get the spring out to change from a 140N/mm - 130N/mm  as I don't have a  spring compressor yet!  And I can't get movement on the pre-load collar to back it off.( I'll try some heat)

All in all I look forward to the track day, if it happens in March!! if not April!! etc. And I am seriously considering what to do next as its getting old on the road. Too many factors to consider with safety being paramount for all users of the road. (not that I disregard safety on track) 

P.S- Maybe I should install the old shock and front end, to make it feel like I'm living on the edge at 45 MPH. Kidding<img src=">

 

You want excitement just run 10psi in your tires, lol.

Seriously, don't put heat on your shock. Spray both ends with silicone. The rear under the spring collar, the front around the collar ramp. Now take a strap wrench and wrap it around the spring so it's orientated to help when you use the shock wrench on the step collar. Do the heavy lifting/force with the strap wrench so it helps you twisting. You should be able to pop it down a few steps if that's your problem. And as always have bandaids handy, you'll need them.

Cheers.

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1 hour ago, mossrider said:

And as always have bandaids handy, you'll need them.

Cheers.

Hey @mossrider, do you have one drawer in your toolbox filled with bandaids? 😂

Definitely the most suggested item by you when giving advice on repairs. 😁

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Just now, 1tondriver said:

Hey @mossrider, do you have one drawer in your toolbox filled with bandaids? 😂

Definitely the most suggested item by you when giving advice on repairs. 😁

My legal disclaimer.

Some assembly required.

Batteries not included.

Enter at own risk.

Follow my advice and you'll need them. My first hand tools included an old worn out crescent wrench, ground flat to accept a vice grip on its jaws to hold them in place for any fastener over 9/16". I had no idea there was a difference between a Phillips and a center punch till I was married and bought my own tools. Proper torque meant to turn it till it started to get loose again then stop. Thread locker was rust.

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12 minutes ago, mossrider said:

My legal disclaimer.

Some assembly required.

Batteries not included.

Enter at own risk.

Follow my advice and you'll need them. My first hand tools included an old worn out crescent wrench, ground flat to accept a vice grip on its jaws to hold them in place for any fastener over 9/16". I had no idea there was a difference between a Phillips and a center punch till I was married and bought my own tools. Proper torque meant to turn it till it started to get loose again then stop. Thread locker was rust.

😂🤣😂🤣

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I run the nix22s at ohlins recommended settings on the track, they work very well for me. Setting static and rider sag is important.

I have the ohlins rear shock which is 3mm longer than standard, so raises the rear a smidge, I also have the forks 5mm above the top yoke to help as well; this will do until I fit an aftermarket rear link.

In my opinion, setting suspension up for the track is easier than for the extremely variable conditions you find on the road. 

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11 hours ago, stickshift said:

I run the nix22s at ohlins recommended settings on the track, they work very well for me. Setting static and rider sag is important.

I have the ohlins rear shock which is 3mm longer than standard, so raises the rear a smidge, I also have the forks 5mm above the top yoke to help as well; this will do until I fit an aftermarket rear link.

In my opinion, setting suspension up for the track is easier than for the extremely variable conditions you find on the road. 

I have the same set-up with the ride height link from AP. Now I just need to get the suspension set-up correctly. What spring are you running in the shock? @stickshift

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52 minutes ago, fzar said:

I have the same set-up with the ride height link from AP. Now I just need to get the suspension set-up correctly. What spring are you running in the shock? @stickshift

I run the standard ohlins spring (115 N/mm). I weigh 155 lbs kitted up.

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So I had a little time to pass on this soft day here, and I got the preload collar lock moved, @mossrider the silicone did the trick. Along with a piece of wood, I didn't want to be dogging the crap out of the collar as the C-spanners are virtually useless with the shock on the bike and that dumbass oem airbox in the way. No bandaids yet!!

Before I went any further I decided it would be a good time to take current sag# before I go adjusting everything and get lost in the "well where did I start- where am I now" fiasco, also I haven't taken measurements since the Nix-22 install and the AP link, fork tube still 5 mm up in the top yoke.

I haven't done the calculus yet, but the AP link has my rear 24mm higher, almost an inch for R1- 24mm dif,R2 - 22mm dif,R3- 25 mm dif. from without the link installed. Thats with a 140N/mm spring, 5mm preload measured on the spring, and reb/comp 3 clicks out on the Ohlins stx-46 Dr1, 200 lbs geared up. Cold reading ( not ridden) I'm glad I have some foundation to work off when I do the numbers tomorrow.

Iv'e been told that the 140N/mm spring is too much for my weight, I don't know! I do have a 130N/mm Ohlins spring to mess around with if needs be. I would appreciate and advice, If anyone thinks I should be looking at something I'm not aware of. I'll post the SAG#'s when I get them.

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On 2/23/2020 at 7:21 PM, fzar said:

I'll post the SAG#'s when I get them.

Static rear: 11mm          Static front: 17mm

Rider  rear: 36mm          Rider front: 27mm

I have to go back and look into what's with the rear as my accomplice wasn't at her best (head cold) More measurements to be taken. My wife hates my bike so it didn't help. LOL.

edit: Using the basic R1-unladen.. R2-bike under its own weight.. R3- Me in full gear..

                              F1-same..     F2- same..                              F3-same..

140 N/mm rear spring, 5 mm preload measured on the spring. Reb/comp 3 clicks out.

9.0 N/mm front springs, Ohlins recommended settings for NIX-22 cartridges.

Anyone want to chime in? Please do. As I said I have to re-visit the measurements, and recheck everything.

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No go. I ended up approximately 50 miles from the track, with no bike. Nothing bad happened, it just so happened that my daughter had a soccer tournament in our home town which I knew about, but my son's soccer team announced an all day, 1 day tournament in Tulsa Oklahoma the weekend before the trackday. I tried to maneuver everything in different directions to get a solution. It was of course possible, if I asked another family which who I'm good friends with, to bring my son and my wife look after my daughter's games. I just couldn't.There's always another day for me to act like a kid. April 11/12 here I come.

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