'16 Dash died, replaced accidentally with '17 ABS dash, speed is doubled.

[limenuke]

So I own a 2016 non-ABS FZ07. The old dash died (went blank, but for some reason, can occasionally boot. have no idea what's wrong wiht it.) I went on ebay and thought I could buy any fz07  dash - I was wrong. I got a 2017 dash with ABS. After installing, I'm finding the dash appears to be reading double the speed I'm doing (ie, if I'm riding 30mph, I see 60mph on my dash). 

I've verified that it's not because I have it toggled to km/h instead. It makes me wonder if 2016 bikes had double the magnets for wheel speed compared to 2017 bikes, resulting in double the number of reads expect on the 2017 dash - thereby doubling my speed. Is there any way to adjust this or change this value?

Besides just ordering another '16 dash and trying to sell the '17 dash, does anyone have any ideas on how I can make my '17 dash work? Presently the ABS light is on (well, 16' doesn't have ABS. So I'm not worried about that). I just want the number to read correctly.

[stickshift]

If you have a non-ABS bike you need a non-ABS dash.

Non-ABS bikes use the gearbox speed sensor to calculate the speed, I imagine that ABS bikes use the wheel speed sensor (slotted ring) to determine speed.

[geophb]

6 hours ago, limenuke said:

I've verified that it's not because I have it toggled to km/h instead. It makes me wonder if 2016 bikes had double the magnets for wheel speed compared to 2017 bikes, resulting in double the number of reads expect on the 2017 dash - thereby doubling my speed. Is there any way to adjust this or change this value?

Abs bikes use the wheel speed sensors for the speedometer. Same number of magnets, its probably because the reluctor ring looking thing in the transmission pings the sensor half as much as the trigger wheel on the abs equipped units. 

Your best bet is to get a new non-abs dash.  IIRC the new dash was same price as used (about 200).

Did your ODO keep the mileage or change to what was on the '17 dash?

[limenuke]

The dash keeps its own memory of the odometer, so I got the other bike's odo. Fortunately, it's not too far off from my odometer. 

Facebook forums have told me that I could just get a speedhealer which seems to make sense as it's just a device that does a factor multiplication to your speed to get the right number.

Part of me wants to just try to resell my 2017 dash, and buy a new dash though.

 

[geophb]

16 minutes ago, limenuke said:

Part of me wants to just try to resell my 2017 dash, and buy a new dash though.

I would do this. Forget that speedhealer mickey mouse headache setup.  Just do it right. Plus if you have a new dash you will have zero miles on your bike 

[shinyribs]

Man, this is not confidence inspiring. Are there many reported cases of gauge failures? 

[botticelli]

Mileage is stored in the ECU to my knowledge?

[DewMan]

5 hours ago, botticelli said:

Mileage is stored in the ECU to my knowledge?

The consensus is it's stored in the dash.

[twf]

On 2/10/2020 at 11:51 AM, limenuke said:

The dash keeps its own memory of the odometer, so I got the other bike's odo. Fortunately, it's not too far off from my odometer. 

Facebook forums have told me that I could just get a speedhealer which seems to make sense as it's just a device that does a factor multiplication to your speed to get the right number.

Part of me wants to just try to resell my 2017 dash, and buy a new dash though.

 

I have brand new 16 dash if interested. 

[AP996]

18 hours ago, botticelli said:

Mileage is stored in the ECU to my knowledge?

No mileage is stored on the dash, swapped my ecu, mileage is still the same.

[limenuke]

4 hours ago, AP996 said:

No mileage is stored on the dash, swapped my ecu, mileage is still the same.

By this, he means:

"No, mileage is stored on the dash."

Yes, if you take the dash apart, theres two distinct pieces inside: the LCD display and the board. The board is where all the memory is. I suspect the board is busted on mine. I'm going to take my board to my friend's workshop and try to reflow all the solder. I used a soldering iron to reflow the connector's pins, but that didn't fix it.

[botticelli]

Thanks for the info, learn something new everyday!

[limenuke]

I found a solution. For clarity's sake, let me make some definitions:

Original Dash = My original dash on my '16 bike

New Dash = The used 2017 ABS dash I got off eBay

Board = The PCB in the dash.

Display = The LCD display in the dash. This is an easily separated component.

 

So the original symptoms was that the original dash's display kept cutting out, and then it completely cut out for a few weeks. Then it came back to life. This caused me to form a hypothesis:

1) Quite likely that the display was not fried.

2) Quite likely a solder joint was loose or rattling on the board.

 

I took my original dash's board and reflowed all the solder and checked for any shorts between pins. It seemed like everything was alright. I plugged the original dash back in, but I didn't see anything on the display still. 

I took apart the new dash and removed the display. I figured that since my old dash's display had intermittently worked, it wasn't fried by any means. I plugged the new dash's display into my old dash, and suddenly everything worked.

This meant my hypothesis was wrong on the second point - the point of failure was somewhere in the LCD display.  I've also heard of the capacitors on the board getting loose and causing an issue like this. 

Note that if your board is having issues with power or shorted, plugging a new display into your board might just fry the new display. This was a risk I took based on the fact that I saw the display intermittently fully functioning AND that the other functions of the dash were working. I actually didn't see it work for a few weeks at all then suddenly the display came to life for 10 minutes before going dark again. I should also note that during this time, the dash's lights for engine oil, turn signals, etc was 100% working so at least the CPU seemed to be working for a number of things. 

 

 

tl;dr - my dash's lights were working, but the display was intermittently cutting out. I bought a 2017 dash on ebay for $130 and transplanted the display into my dash. I was fortunate, and it worked. Try to reflow the solder on your dash as a debug step. Try also to prod between various pins on your board to check for shorts (or burned components - visually can inspect this or just check the  resistance across certain components to ensure what they are what they're supposed to be).

 

 

 

[Skibum4106]

On 2/10/2020 at 2:26 AM, limenuke said:

So I own a 2016 non-ABS FZ07. The old dash died (went blank, but for some reason, can occasionally boot. have no idea what's wrong wiht it.) I went on ebay and thought I could buy any fz07  dash - I was wrong. I got a 2017 dash with ABS. After installing, I'm finding the dash appears to be reading double the speed I'm doing (ie, if I'm riding 30mph, I see 60mph on my dash). 

I've verified that it's not because I have it toggled to km/h instead. It makes me wonder if 2016 bikes had double the magnets for wheel speed compared to 2017 bikes, resulting in double the number of reads expect on the 2017 dash - thereby doubling my speed. Is there any way to adjust this or change this value?

Besides just ordering another '16 dash and trying to sell the '17 dash, does anyone have any ideas on how I can make my '17 dash work? Presently the ABS light is on (well, 16' doesn't have ABS. So I'm not worried about that). I just want the number to read correctly.

Good Questions  .  I hit  a deer with my bike  at first  some times the  Meter would not  boot up properly turn it on and off a  few times then would work .. Not  it won't  boot up anymore  ..

[Mad]

Before doing anything.. go for a 299 in the dash ! You will never be able to do it on this bike