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phanomenal07

Some questions about installing apmoto ride height link

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phanomenal07

How do I do it? lol.

So is it as straight forward as lifting the rear removing the 2 bolts and slapping the new one on or is there more I should know?

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mossrider
Just now, phanomenal07 said:

How do I do it? lol.

So is it as straight forward as lifting the rear removing the 2 bolts and slapping the new one on or is there more I should know?

Nailed it.

You might have to use a little clever English to line up the holes depending on which shock you have in there and how things dangle but it's easy.

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blackout
1 hour ago, phanomenal07 said:

How do I do it? lol.

So is it as straight forward as lifting the rear removing the 2 bolts and slapping the new one on or is there more I should know?

You lift and support the rear part of the frame, so that there is no weight on the rear tire.  Then you can shim the rear tire so that when you remove any suspension bolts not much moves.   That way your bolt holes stay close to lined up.  You can lower or raise the rear tire slightly as needed to get the bolts back in.

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Craig Mapstone
Upstate New York

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phanomenal07

Thanks alot guys. Are there any bushings I have to remove clean or grease when i do this?

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blackout

Also, unless I was missing a good trick, I had to loosen and pull the swingarm pivot bolt out a couple inches along with the left rear set plate in order to make room to get the lower dog bone link bolt out.  Something to be aware of.  But maybe  I'm remembering the process wrong.  Its been a couple years.


Craig Mapstone
Upstate New York

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DewMan
26 minutes ago, blackout said:

Also, unless I was missing a good trick, I had to loosen and pull the swingarm pivot bolt out a couple inches along with the left rear set plate in order to make room to get the lower dog bone link bolt out.  Something to be aware of.  But maybe  I'm remembering the process wrong.  Its been a couple years.

the only thing I had to remove to replace my OEM shock was the plastic fender if my memory serves.


DewMan
 
Just shut up and ride.

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Evill_Ed

Are referring to AP’s Doge Bone Linkage? 
755A7A1A-8A00-4DAA-B779-B018883551FA.thumb.jpeg.7b9ac52d436c9e9a5168661937d56cb1.jpeg

 

I installed mine when I had the swing arm off. If you have rearsets with non-folding pegs, you can support the rear of the bike by placing them on small jack stands. I had a front stand holding the bike up and a small floor jack under the engine to support the rear.

You do not need to remove the swing arm. The picture shows the bolts and location. Notice the thread location on the top bolt.

E92275AC-EC74-475C-AB74-4175C6BD6125.thumb.jpeg.88c41ed740a7b8b739a1c5038f00b339.jpeg

The AP link is thicker than the stock one, I got a longer Yamaha bolt to get proper thread engagement. I may have the part number somewhere. I think the factory shock uses to different length bolts, I used two of the longer ones.

 

Ed

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Evill_Ed

All installed. Notice the threads just past the nuts on the longer bolt on the linkage 2E0C5817-C77A-4CE1-BE67-AA6E77B16B2D.thumb.jpeg.10d3e2a5c97ca3576e42d3a4d816fe80.jpeg

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phanomenal07
2 hours ago, Evill_Ed said:

Are referring to AP’s Doge Bone Linkage? 
755A7A1A-8A00-4DAA-B779-B018883551FA.thumb.jpeg.7b9ac52d436c9e9a5168661937d56cb1.jpeg

 

I installed mine when I had the swing arm off. If you have rearsets with non-folding pegs, you can support the rear of the bike by placing them on small jack stands. I had a front stand holding the bike up and a small floor jack under the engine to support the rear.

You do not need to remove the swing arm. The picture shows the bolts and location. Notice the thread location on the top bolt.

E92275AC-EC74-475C-AB74-4175C6BD6125.thumb.jpeg.88c41ed740a7b8b739a1c5038f00b339.jpeg

The AP link is thicker than the stock one, I got a longer Yamaha bolt to get proper thread engagement. I may have the part number somewhere. I think the factory shock uses to different length bolts, I used two of the longer ones.

 

Ed

If you could get me that part number I would appreciate it. Is it a special bolt or can I just get one anywhere?

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blackout

If you have a good local hardware store a grade 10.9 metric will be strong enough.  That's what I did.  Or Mc-Master Carr.

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Craig Mapstone
Upstate New York

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Evill_Ed


parts number 2 and 3

90105-10283-00 - BOLT, FLANGE

95602-10200-00 - NUT,SELF

cdn.partzilla.com

 

 

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phanomenal07
10 minutes ago, Evill_Ed said:


parts number 2 and 3

90105-10283-00 - BOLT, FLANGE

95602-10200-00 - NUT,SELF

cdn.partzilla.com

 

 

So dont use the standard bolt that was on the linkage and use the bolt that the shock use to mount to the bell crank instead?

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Evill_Ed
51 minutes ago, phanomenal07 said:

So dont use the standard bolt that was on the linkage and use the bolt that the shock use to mount to the bell crank instead?

Measure it to be sure. The bolt on mine is part 90105-10283-00. Overall length, From the outside of the bolt head to the outside of the threads, is 60mm. I want to say it was a few mm longer than the original and it made up the difference for the thicker AP linkage. 

I may be confusing this with rear shock bolt, I think the Razor mount was thicker also. I may have used the longer bolt there.

just be sure that the threads on the bolt stick out past the nut on the AP link bolt. You want full thread engagement.

 

Ed

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fzar
37 minutes ago, Evill_Ed said:

Measure it to be sure. The bolt on mine is part 90105-10283-00. Overall length, From the outside of the bolt head to the outside of the threads, is 60mm. I want to say it was a few mm longer than the original and it made up the difference for the thicker AP linkage. 

I may be confusing this with rear shock bolt, I think the Razor mount was thicker also. I may have used the longer bolt there.

just be sure that the threads on the bolt stick out past the nut on the AP link bolt. You want full thread engagement.

 

Ed

Good to know, here I was thinking it was a straight swap.

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mossrider
6 hours ago, blackout said:

Also, unless I was missing a good trick, I had to loosen and pull the swingarm pivot bolt out a couple inches along with the left rear set plate in order to make room to get the lower dog bone link bolt out.  Something to be aware of.  But maybe  I'm remembering the process wrong.  Its been a couple years.

Take rear shock bolt out so you can move swinger up or down a bit to get bolts out. 

 Swearing once helps.

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HulkHogan

Does this ride height link cause a different effect than adjusting the ride height on a shock?

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mossrider
3 hours ago, HulkHogan said:

Does this ride height link cause a different effect than adjusting the ride height on a shock?

Corrects the swingarm angle (closer to 13 degs) and raises the rear of the bike (especially with a longer shock) which essentially sharpens the steering head angle and puts more weight on the front as well.

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blackout
10 hours ago, HulkHogan said:

Does this ride height link cause a different effect than adjusting the ride height on a shock?

A shorter link, like the AP link, keeps the bell crank in it's sweet spot while raising the rear at the same time.  A lengthened shock will increase ride height, but the bell crank gets pivoted back and becomes less effective in its initial compression  stroke.  The stroke becomes less linear.  Not to mention, cleavis clearance becomes an issue.   A shorter link is the way to go on a performance oriented bike.

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Craig Mapstone
Upstate New York

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phanomenal07
20 hours ago, blackout said:

If you have a good local hardware store a grade 10.9 metric will be strong enough.  That's what I did.  Or Mc-Master Carr.

I dont know what this means but do you have the size bolt you used? Is it just a regular bolt that I need to get or is it a special something.

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blackout
19 minutes ago, phanomenal07 said:

I dont know what this means but do you have the size bolt you used? Is it just a regular bolt that I need to get or is it a special something.

10.9 is the strength rating.  It is stamped on the head of the bolt usually.  I don't remember the exact size.  If you have a local Runnings store, bring the stock bolt to the store and get one the next step longer.  Maybe another 5mm longer.  There is nothing special with the yamaha bolts.  Any will work you just need the same diameter and long enough and at least 10.9 strength rating.  A different thread pitch is fine too, you just need a new matching nut.


Craig Mapstone
Upstate New York

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blackout

8.8 is the standard metric strength rating for fasteners.   To be on the safe side use only 10.9 or 12.9 on suspension parts.  The stock bolt has a flanged head.  A flanged head is not needed, adding a metric washer is fine.  Like mentioned earlier, a longer bolt is just needed to get the proper thread engagement.  Since the AP link is machined from aluminum, it is wider for adequate strength, so a longer bolt is needed.

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Craig Mapstone
Upstate New York

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1tondriver

Can anyone comment on needing longer bolt/bolts when installing the Robem Linear Linkage? Can I assume the extra length is needed like the AP link?

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blackout
1 hour ago, 1tondriver said:

Can anyone comment on needing longer bolt/bolts when installing the Robem Linear Linkage? Can I assume the extra length is needed like the AP link?

Probably thicker as well since it is also machined from aluminum.  

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Craig Mapstone
Upstate New York

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fzar
3 hours ago, 1tondriver said:

Can anyone comment on needing longer bolt/bolts when installing the Robem Linear Linkage? Can I assume the extra length is needed like the AP link?

Ask @Spatt if anyone knows, I'm sure he does.

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1tondriver
5 minutes ago, fzar said:

Ask @Spatt if anyone knows, I'm sure he does.

I sent him a message but thought I would as while waiting. Thanks 👍

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