What did you do to your Yamaha FZ-07 today?

[Bigturbomax]

Removed the lower portion of intake snorkel. Also put in an LED headlamp bulb and got my 13watt oslamp spots installed on the frame.

[michigan400]

7 hours ago, Bigturbomax said:

Removed the lower portion of intake snorkel. Also put in an LED headlamp bulb and got my 13watt oslamp spots installed on the frame.

Did you use tube mounts for the lights on the frame? I have a set of Cyclops LED pods I don't use anymore and wouldn't mind mounting them on the FZ. I just never found an obvious location that would work well and not stick out or be in the way of turning the bars. Would like to see your mount set up if you have a picture of it? That would be a good location for some lights so I was just curious. Thanks!

 

M400

[fzar]

On 2/26/2018 at 3:41 PM, DewMan said:

I installed SHAD SH36 side cases and ordered an Akra-Ti from @bellissimoto and a flash from @2wheeldynoworks  before it went off of sale price.

 

Along with the existing Corbin saddle and the Bitubo front & rear suspension upgrades, I should have a decent sport-touring setup by the time I'm done.

 

Whats that GPS mount or whatever the hell it is sitting on the cluster?

 

[fzar]

11 hours ago, Bigturbomax said:

Removed the lower portion of intake snorkel. Also put in an LED headlamp bulb and got my 13watt oslamp spots installed on the frame.

Did you cut the end of the snorkel off? Is so,why? @Bigturbomax

Edited February 28, 2018 by fzar

[DewMan]

33 minutes ago, fzar said:

Whats that GPS mount or whatever the hell it is sitting on the cluster?

 

Yes, that's a 5 yr old Garmin 3590LMT GPS  mounted from a bracket that bolts to the same bolt hole as the gauge cluster. It's a car GPS I had laying around  and considering I can get like 4 new similarly spec'ed models for the price of a single  Garmin Zumo 595LM I'll take the risk if it gets wet.  It's mounted in a generic branded  mount I found online that the 3590 snaps into that I can't find the link for right now. I power it via USB from the battery.

Edited February 28, 2018 by DewMan
changed mounting location... forgot I'd moved it from my bars.

[fzar]

4 minutes ago, DewMan said:

Yes, that's a 5 yr old Garmin 3590LMT GPS  mounted on my bars. It's a car GPS I had laying around  and considering I can get like 4 new similarly spec'ed models for the price of a single  Garmin Zumo 595LM I'll take the risk if it gets wet.  It's mounted in a generic branded  mount I found online that the 3590 snaps into that I can't find the link for right now. I power it via USB from the battery.

You power it via USB from the battery, is this direct from the battery, as in are you running a cable from under the rider seat, or are you saying its running from the USB port hidden on the left hand side under the tank?

 

[DewMan]

@fzar ,I use THIS fused Terminal harness along with THIS quick connect SAE extension cord run the power up to the triple tree and then plug in Something like this to have a couple of USB ports for whatever purpose I need. I can also use the SAE cable to plug in my Batter Tender when needed without having to remove the seat.

Edited February 28, 2018 by DewMan
Corrected link to 5 ft extension cord... I didn't use a 25ft cord that I originally linked.

[Bigturbomax]

6 hours ago, michigan400 said:

Did you use tube mounts for the lights on the frame? I have a set of Cyclops LED pods I don't use anymore and wouldn't mind mounting them on the FZ. I just never found an obvious location that would work well and not stick out or be in the way of turning the bars. Would like to see your mount set up if you have a picture of it? That would be a good location for some lights so I was just curious. Thanks!

 

M400

Yep, mounted to the frame under the tank with cheap aluminum bar clamps off amazon. The frame is 1.25 inch so most bar clamps will work. I grounded to battery neg and power is a fused line tapped off headlight relay behind regulator. That way all wiring is hidden under body panels, gives that factory look lol. Also, i dont have to worry about them pulling power when cranking as they turn on with the headlamp once engine is running. They also shut off when the key is off. Running all the time, good long range visibility in the dark and cagers see me better during the day. I can get a better picture later.

[Bigturbomax]

2 hours ago, fzar said:

Did you cut the end of the snorkel off? Is so,why? @Bigturbomax

*DISCLAIMER:

It is recommended to get a tune with any airbox modifications.

 

But yes, i removed lower portion of snorkel. It doesnt really change how it runs. I did it primarily to allow the whole filter to be used. Also, a little extra intake growl is heard at WOT.  See that little dark strip at the bottom of the filter? Thats the only part that is filtering anything, and that part is already as dirty as i want my air filters to be. YMMV.

Edited March 1, 2018 by Bigturbomax
Didnt want anyone getting bad ideas from me

[fzar]

13 hours ago, Bigturbomax said:

*DISCLAIMER:

It is recommended to get a tune with any airbox modifications.

 

But yes, i removed lower portion of snorkel. It doesnt really change how it runs. I did it primarily to allow the whole filter to be used. Also, a little extra intake growl is heard at WOT.  See that little dark strip at the bottom of the filter? Thats the only part that is filtering anything, and that part is already as dirty as i want my air filters to be. YMMV.

According to @2wheeldynoworks when they did my flash I was told to remove the snorkel, the whole piece. I sent them a photo of what I did and they said it was exactly what they recommend. No cutting involved. at 8,700 miles the filter is dirty, similar to your picture, time to get a new 1 for me anyway. 24,000 mile Yamaha recommended changing the filter is a stretch, a long stretch if you ask me. I'll post pics when I get a chance. Thanks for the pics.

Edited March 1, 2018 by fzar

[michigan400]

15 hours ago, Bigturbomax said:

Yep, mounted to the frame under the tank with cheap aluminum bar clamps off amazon. The frame is 1.25 inch so most bar clamps will work. I grounded to battery neg and power is a fused line tapped off headlight relay behind regulator. That way all wiring is hidden under body panels, gives that factory look lol. Also, i dont have to worry about them pulling power when cranking as they turn on with the headlamp once engine is running. They also shut off when the key is off. Running all the time, good long range visibility in the dark and cagers see me better during the day. I can get a better picture later.

About to take a look on Amazon now. Thanks for the tip!

 

 

[fzar]

Here's my filter

 

Edited March 2, 2018 by fzar

[mjh937]

I finally got a chance to ride since I installed the Nitron shock I bought from @pattonme.  I did not realize how bad the stock shock was.  The bike feels so much more planted now.  It is very confidence inspiring.  I am looking forward to getting the forks done now. 

[fzar]

1 hour ago, mjh937 said:

I finally got a chance to ride since I installed the Nitron shock I bought from @pattonme.  I did not realize how bad the stock shock was.  The bike feels so much more planted now.  It is very confidence inspiring.  I am looking forward to getting the forks done now. 

Did you put it through the paces? What are you doing with the forks?

[fzar]

I went for a ride today and while doing a pre-ride check I noticed the rear turn signal's were not DRL(their stock) on a fender eliminator,they do signal, the brake light is DRL. I want to know is this normal or was there a mistake made by the previous owner installing the eliminator? Thanks in advance for any input.  

Edited March 3, 2018 by fzar

[mjh937]

1 hour ago, fzar said:

I went for a ride today and while doing a pre-ride check I noticed the rear turn signal's were not DRL(their stock) on a fender eliminator,they do signal, the brake light is DRL. I want to know is this normal or was there a mistake made by the previous owner installing the eliminator? Thanks in advance for any input.  

That is normal.  DRL's are only on the front. 

[mjh937]

1 hour ago, fzar said:

Did you put it through the paces? What are you doing with the forks?

Not as much as I would have liked as there were still damp patches on the road.  It was still very much improved, even at less than the limit.  I am having @pattonme install the Matris F15K kit later this month.

[shinyribs]

On 2/28/2018 at 7:53 PM, Bigturbomax said:

*DISCLAIMER:

It is recommended to get a tune with any airbox modifications.

 

But yes, i removed lower portion of snorkel. It doesnt really change how it runs. I did it primarily to allow the whole filter to be used. Also, a little extra intake growl is heard at WOT.  See that little dark strip at the bottom of the filter? Thats the only part that is filtering anything, and that part is already as dirty as i want my air filters to be. YMMV.

I recently did the same thing. I've got a stock ECU with an Arrow exhaust. I was surprised how much intake noise you get, but like yours, my filter showed how much was obviously not being used. 

 

I'm not gonna say there were huge power gains, and I didn't expect any, but the mid-range lull felt noticably less flat. The front tire comes up more often in third gear now, and it even popped up a bit in fourth when creating hills under hard throttle a few timed. I doubt there's any overall hp gains, but I think mine won't be going back in anytime soon...

Edited March 3, 2018 by shinyribs

[mick97702]

4 hours ago, fzar said:

I went for a ride today and while doing a pre-ride check I noticed the rear turn signal's were not DRL(their stock) on a fender eliminator,they do signal, the brake light is DRL. I want to know is this normal or was there a mistake made by the previous owner installing the eliminator? Thanks in advance for any input.  

That's normal.

[pattonme]

7 hours ago, shinyribs said:

 but like yours, my filter showed how much was obviously not being used. 

actually the entire filter is being used, just not equally. The air velocity is downward until it smacks into the bottom and has to make a 90 turn. The pressure differential is highest there anyway since the intakes are just on the other side as opposed to up near the top of the air-box. so that's why it handles the most air and collects the most dirt. Put a 1/2" high piece of thin plastic sheet in a ring around the bottom and the dirt ring will move higher.

 

If you're concerned about "large" objects getting into the filter, go to HomeDepot and get one of those 'brillo'-like air-handler elements and cut it to size. Or get a piece of screen door netting and sandwich some of the blue open-weave filtering between the layers.

Edited March 3, 2018 by pattonme

[mjh937]

I just got back from a longer ride putting the Nitron shock through its paces.  It is a huge improvement.  I feel a lot more stable when I am leaned over.  It also feels better accelerating out of corners.  @Cruizin has always said the suspension is the first thing to upgrade and I should have listened...I am doing it last and wish I had not put it off so long.  

 

The forks are not as bad as I thought they were (although I am still looking forward to getting those upgraded) now that the shock is sorted out.  

[Cruizin]

On 3/3/2018 at 4:07 PM, mjh937 said:

I just got back from a longer ride putting the Nitron shock through its paces.  It is a huge improvement.  I feel a lot more stable when I am leaned over.  It also feels better accelerating out of corners.  @Cruizin has always said the suspension is the first thing to upgrade and I should have listened...I am doing it last and wish I had not put it off so long.  

 

The forks are not as bad as I thought they were (although I am still looking forward to getting those upgraded) now that the shock is sorted out.  

Suspension makes you faster than any other upgrade, unless you only ride straight roads. It's the first upgrade I do to any bike. 

[DewMan]

I pulled the factory exhaust and snorkel in preparation for the arrival of my flashed ECU from @2wheeldynoworks and my Akra-Ti exhaust from @bellissimoto. Both of #which are scheduled for arrival at my door tomorrow. 😍

 

My ECU arrived at 2WDW this past Saturday and they had it back in the mail to me by Monday even though they "were short a guy". I couldn't ask for faster service than that. Bellissimoto had the Akra-Ti headed my way within 48 hours of my order which was more than acceptable. 👍

 

P.S. It did not require removal of the SW-Motech centerstand to remove the one piece OEM exhaust/header, though it was a little like working a wire linking puzzle to unravel it from the bike with the centerstand installed after getting the exhaust unbolted.

 

EDIT: I also unbranded the SHAD hard cases that I installed last week by using 91% rubbing alcohol on a melamine sponge (generic Mr. Clean Magic eraser) to remove the silk screened name off of the screwed on ABS plastic badge. It also removed what I consider the out of place looking high gloss finish from the badge that's screwed onto each case as well, as I knew it would. Each now has more of a flat brushed finish as I expected using the melamine sponge.

Edited March 6, 2018 by DewMan

[fuzzmedic]

Technically this was my weekend project, but I got a few mods done and had a chance to grab pictures today.

 

First off were the Powermadd Star hand guards. We had a random warm day a few weeks ago but I got caught out late after the temp fell drastically and froze my fingers off. After a bit of research I decided on the Powermadd Stars with the motorcycle mounting kit. Seemed to be the most affordable option that still met my needs and style preference. Installation was a breeze but did require moving my clutch and brake levers in ever so slightly. I quickly adjusted and don't even notice the placement difference, but the wind deflection is fantastic and a welcome improvement.

 

In addition I decided I needed heated grips, and the Oxford Heaterz Sports seemed to fit the bill. Install was again very simple, and there are a few youtube videos that detail it if you need guidance. I highly recommend the combination of heated grips and hand guards. Coupled with my Alpine Star Apex Drystar gloves I've ridden 45+ minutes at highway speed in the low 40s to upper 30s and my hands have stayed quite cozy. While I was at it I installed an R6 throttle tube. My two bits of advice would be 1) rough up the tube with some coarse sandpaper to help the glue secure the grip, and 2) actually wait the recommended 24 hours for the glue to set. I waited a whopping 45 minutes and it quickly came lose and was less than ideal.

 

Probably the most exciting mod was the addition of my Akrapovic Titanium exhaust and Dobeck EJK. I had previously cheeped out and installed an M4 slip on, but I botched the install a bit and never got it quite right. I also noticed a dip in performance so I was going to need fuel management at some point anyways. After much research I landed on the Dobeck stage 1 kit. Install of the exhaust was very straight forward, but I had some experience removing the stock exhaust already which definitely helped speed the process along. Two tips I'd suggest would be 1) if you're gonna use the O2 sensor (mine is currently unplugged) thread it on the pipe before you install it instead of twisting the cable a million times, and 2) Spray some WD40 on the pipe before you try to slide the muffler on as the tolerance is tight and can be a bear without some lubricant. Also make sure you wipe the whole system down before you start it to avoid discolorations from impurities. The EJK arrived a few days later, and came preloaded with the settings for my setup so it was quite literally plug and play. I ran into two problems, neither of which have anything to do with Dobeck. First issue was whoever assembled my bike over-torqued one of the bolts that secure the tank faring, and I stripped the head almost immediately trying to remove it. After trying several failed methods to extract it I ended up having to drill it out. That one bolt added a solid hour to the entire process. For anyone who plans on removing the farings once again there are a multitude of helpful youtube videos out there. Anyways, once the bike was disassembled the only struggle I had was unplugging the injectors, but with some patience and a long thin screwdriver I was able to get them unplugged and easily installed the EJK, routed the wiring, removed the airbox snorkel as recommended, and reassembled the bike. All from the comfort and warmth of my kitchen...

 

Between the throttle tube, tuner, and exhaust the bike is just that much better. I was enamored before, but now the power is so smooth, throttle response is amazing, and the bike has really opened up and feels like it pulls so much stronger.

 

The final plug-and-play mod was the Vizi-Tec SupraBrake II. It literally plugs inline to the cable running to the brake light so install was beyond simple. I have not messed around with the different modes as I'm quite happy with the default, but there are 10 modes total. A happy accident that resulted from the install was the realization that my rear brake pedal did not activate my brake light. After a quick google I learned that others have had this problem, and its resolved by adjusting a nut hidden by the guard just above the pedal itself. Very simple to do by hand if you need to do it yourself.

 

All in all I had a fun little weekend for myself, and as sad as I am that the mods are over I'm incredibly happy with the finished product. Unfortunately we're about to get blasted with another snow storm so my riding days are over for a few weeks but needless to say as soon as the roads a dry and clear of sand I'll be back out there!

 

 

 

Edited March 7, 2018 by fuzzmedic

[shinyribs]

I got tired of the crookedy looking mirror extender thingys I had, so I turned up some proper extensions. Not sure if I'll powdercoat them or just slip a length of heat shrink tubing over them. 

 

Kinda crowded with gloved hands 

 

Extensions

 

 

Brushed and on the bike. No vibration issues at speed. 

 

 

That's a $13 eBay special helmet lock taking the place of the master cylinder bar clamp. Works like a champ.