Jump to content
The MT-07 Forum

What did you do to your Yamaha FZ-07 today?


Cruizin

Recommended Posts

On 2/1/2023 at 1:41 AM, Migyver said:

Do you have any pics?  I want to replace the running lights in my headlight, not sure if I should go white, yellow or another accent colour.  Pretty sure the laws in my province dictate that I can't do red in the front. 

Here are some quick pictures from this morning.  I tried to edit them slightly to reflect a truer sense of the colour appearance to the eye, though the pictures still show the light quite a bit warmer tone than what I see.  I would say that the true appearance is around 6k light versus the 3.5-4.3k as it appear in the pics.  The 2 bulbs match so that there is no difference in colour to the naked eye.

I realize that I should probably pull the housing and clean the inside as there is quite a bit of dust that is inside the lens from the previous bulb issues.

Edit: Oops. Just realized that mine is an older FZ model.  Hope this helps a litle.

 

20230202_095640.thumb.jpg.1571c1c790beaab3242dbb04fe8675d2.jpg20230202_095708.thumb.jpg.e8e357679079570ad591fd6ed7e85905.jpg

Edited by Zephyr
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Zephyr said:

Here are some quick pictures from this morning.  I tried to edit them slightly to reflect a truer sense of the colour appearance to the eye, though the pictures still show the light quite a bit warmer tone than what I see.  I would say that the true appearance is around 6k light versus the 3.5-4.3k as it appear in the pics.  The 2 bulbs match so that there is no difference in colour to the naked eye.

I realize that I should probably pull the housing and clean the inside as there is quite a bit of dust that is inside the lens from the previous bulb issues.

Edit: Oops. Just realized that mine is an older FZ model.  Hope this helps a little.

 Yeah, I was hoping for a pic of the 2nd gen with 2 bulbs.  Thanks!!  I might just order a few different ones and see, they're not that expensive.

It's more fun naked!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Rode it for the first time since it got parked for winter in October. We got a rare warm day and the roads were clear so took it on a little jaunt around town. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Did a 12k service over the weekend and finished up today by plugging the air temp sensor back in that I had forgotten about, *doh*.  I did the all of the "main" items and carry-over 8k items that I neglected like replacing all fluids, throttle body sync, spark plugs, etc. 

I did not repack the swingarm bearings, nor the steering bearings as that seemed rather involved.  Has anyone done those items and are they reasonable for a moderately inclined (though still newb) DIY maintenance guy?  I do have the service manual, but it seems a bit lacking at times.

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

M. Hausknecht
8 hours ago, Zephyr said:

Did a 12k service over the weekend and finished up today by plugging the air temp sensor back in that I had forgotten about, *doh*.  I did the all of the "main" items and carry-over 8k items that I neglected like replacing all fluids, throttle body sync, spark plugs, etc. 

I did not repack the swingarm bearings, nor the steering bearings as that seemed rather involved.  Has anyone done those items and are they reasonable for a moderately inclined (though still newb) DIY maintenance guy?  I do have the service manual, but it seems a bit lacking at times.

 

Repacking swing arm and steering head bearings is a bit involved because you need to have a way to secure the bike while you remove and reinstall parts, but there isn't anything difficult about either unless you don't have the necessary tools. The service manual assumes some mechanical experience, so all of the details aren't set out, but take pictures and notes as you go; you'll be fine.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just replaced my steering head bearings at 35k kilometers (still a lot of the factory grease inside, btw.) and greased the linkage and swingarm stuff also completely.   I'm not a complete newbie when it comes to maintenance work, but also no professional (regarding "big" bikes). I have to read, learn, watch youtube before I start and then step by step without time pressure.  Sometimes on the way you realise you have to buy a new tool (like an internal extractor for the upper bearing race), but I like that  :D

grafik.thumb.png.18825a7fca9cad926128145be014075b.png
I WIN, THING HAS LOST!!1

 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Premium Member
8 hours ago, M. Hausknecht said:

Repacking swing arm and steering head bearings is a bit involved because you need to have a way to secure the bike while you remove and reinstall parts, but there isn't anything difficult about either unless you don't have the necessary tools. The service manual assumes some mechanical experience, so all of the details aren't set out, but take pictures and notes as you go; you'll be fine.

I'm repacking my rear suspension/pivot//linkage. I've done it before, and it's pretty easy. My 2016 has 15K on the clock, and I've NEVER touched the steering head bearings.... Bike has never seen rain, and never will (I don't race in the rain). Should I be checking them before the season starts? I usually don't keep bikes this long, and I've never done steering head bearings (ever- on ANY bike). My FZ-07  bike is now a dedicated race bike, and will see less than 1K miles this season. I just don't want to waste my time on it, if it's not necessary. Everything seems fine with the font end. I'd like to hear your thoughts-

  • Like 1

""W.O.T. until you see god, then brake"

Link to comment
Share on other sites

M. Hausknecht
1 hour ago, cornerslider said:

I'm repacking my rear suspension/pivot//linkage. I've done it before, and it's pretty easy. My 2016 has 15K on the clock, and I've NEVER touched the steering head bearings.... Bike has never seen rain, and never will (I don't race in the rain). Should I be checking them before the season starts? I usually don't keep bikes this long, and I've never done steering head bearings (ever- on ANY bike). My FZ-07  bike is now a dedicated race bike, and will see less than 1K miles this season. I just don't want to waste my time on it, if it's not necessary. Everything seems fine with the font end. I'd like to hear your thoughts-

I've had steering head bearings go bad, but not on an 07. Once you can feel a bit of notchiness, with the steering damper disconnected, its time to replace them. I've found that periodically resetting and retorquing the head bearings helps. I've had bikes where they loosen up. Once they get a bit sloppy, they'll wear quickly. 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Premium Member
18 minutes ago, M. Hausknecht said:

I've had steering head bearings go bad, but not on an 07. Once you can feel a bit of notchiness, with the steering damper disconnected, its time to replace them. I've found that periodically resetting and retorquing the head bearings helps. I've had bikes where they loosen up. Once they get a bit sloppy, they'll wear quickly. 

I don't actually run a steering damper on my FZ-07.... Maybe I'm just not "fast-enough" to need one???? I have ZERO ego on this issue.... In the past, I've had Supermoto's that gave me "tank-slappers", but my FZ-07 has never even once been "upset" with my inputs???? Maybe I'm lucky, or maybe I'm just not that fast.... Either way, I appreciate your input!!! Please continue your inputs on this forum. We all learn from folks with more experience-

  • Like 4

""W.O.T. until you see god, then brake"

Link to comment
Share on other sites

M. Hausknecht

I wouldn't run a steering damper either on my 07 but WERA requires one. I shouldn't have assumed.....😀

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had those two pitting points. You couldn't feel them yet while turning the handle bar with a lifted front wheel, but while moving the lower triple clamp with bare hands around straight direction of travel there was a snap-in point.
Here a vehicle you want to use in public traffic needs a technical inspection every two years. With this the examiner will definitely not let you pass if he notices it.

 

grafik.thumb.png.370a9e92d93908413c29c3a148054336.png

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Took the bike to the shop :(

Ride on the way home from work, idiot light came on.
Just happen to be right beside the dealer (feet away).

They think it is a sensor that had gone bad. Will post what I find. 
 

  • Like 1

2022 Yamaha MT-07 Cyan Storm, 2005 Kawasaki Vulcan 2000 [VN2000A], 1997 Yamaha YZF600R - Thundercat [project]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Fork rebuild and installed Matris FSE emulators (new springs and emulators). Installed new tires (Dunlop Roadsmart 3)

20230322_161451.thumb.jpg.54206596e952338e7769a270a571a93d.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
On 3/26/2023 at 8:27 AM, tomlichu said:

Fork rebuild and installed Matris FSE emulators (new springs and emulators). Installed new tires (Dunlop Roadsmart 3)

20230322_161451.thumb.jpg.54206596e952338e7769a270a571a93d.jpg

Did you already try the Matris FSE emulators? How they perform?
I cannot find any reviews.

And where is comming the upper rebound hole in the damper rod, above the two o-rings of the emulator?

Matris_fork-hydraulic-kit-FSE.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 4/3/2023 at 5:26 AM, alant said:

Did you already try the Matris FSE emulators? How they perform?
I cannot find any reviews.

And where is comming the upper rebound hole in the damper rod, above the two o-rings of the emulator?

For my daily commute, the Matris FSE emulators have improved the bike in terms of comfort. The bike no longer dives dramatically when braking, and on acceleration, I feel like the front end does not lift as much (which was unexpected). I will get around to adjusting preload based on my rider sag. Medium-sized bumps and pot-holes feel less noticeable, which I was surprised. I thought the ride was going to be harsher with the stiffer springs. My new springs are 0.95 kg/mm. There is much less oscillating, I am guessing the emulators have improved damping.

Here is a my attempt at illustrating how the dampers work. Based on how the shims are shaped, it reminds me of leaf springs. I am guessing the shims will deflect more when the force of the oil increases (damping force is proportional to velocity). The shim deflecting will allow more oil to flow through on compression damping? Maybe others can chime in on this. This is my first time doing a fork rebuild + upgrade to emulators.

matris_fse_oil_flow.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 4/5/2023 at 5:41 AM, tomlichu said:

For my daily commute, the Matris FSE emulators have improved the bike in terms of comfort. The bike no longer dives dramatically when braking, and on acceleration, I feel like the front end does not lift as much (which was unexpected). I will get around to adjusting preload based on my rider sag. Medium-sized bumps and pot-holes feel less noticeable, which I was surprised. I thought the ride was going to be harsher with the stiffer springs. My new springs are 0.95 kg/mm. There is much less oscillating, I am guessing the emulators have improved damping.

Here is a my attempt at illustrating how the dampers work. Based on how the shims are shaped, it reminds me of leaf springs. I am guessing the shims will deflect more when the force of the oil increases (damping force is proportional to velocity). The shim deflecting will allow more oil to flow through on compression damping? Maybe others can chime in on this. This is my first time doing a fork rebuild + upgrade to emulators.

 

Thank you very much for reply. I am also curious where is the rebound hole of the damper rod after mounting?

Because the OEM description says the kit has also rebound flows control:

https://www.matrisdampers.com/en/prodotto/products/fork-kit-it-en/fse

 

 

damper_rod_D.jpg

matris_fse_oil_flow_D.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, alant said:

Thank you very much for reply. I am also curious where is the rebound hole of the damper rod after mounting?

Because the OEM description says the kit has also rebound flows control:

https://www.matrisdampers.com/en/prodotto/products/fork-kit-it-en/fse

I see now. I did not check where the rebound damping hole was before mounting the emulator. However, I believe the damping rod spring is longer than the portion of the emulator that sticks in the damping rod. I believe the damping hole is below the emulator (it would be the lowest yellow box you drew). 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 hours ago, tomlichu said:

I see now. I did not check where the rebound damping hole was before mounting the emulator. However, I believe the damping rod spring is longer than the portion of the emulator that sticks in the damping rod. I believe the damping hole is below the emulator (it would be the lowest yellow box you drew). 

The damper rod in the photo is not from MT07, it's just an example. The MT07 damper rod hole may be at different position, I did not find the right photo.

Nevertheless I just ordered the Matris FSE kit. Thank you again for your reply.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

nozeitgeist1800

finally, FINALLY, done. i dont think there is anything else i can do except replacing stuff ive already replaced, or the yoshi/hordpower airbox, which i dont think im ever going to do. 

moto right.jpg

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

19 hours ago, nozeitgeist1800 said:

finally, FINALLY, done. i dont think there is anything else i can do except replacing stuff ive already replaced, or the yoshi/hordpower airbox, which i dont think im ever going to do. 

moto right.jpg

Change the exhaust baffle to a MT-09 one. Gives a nice exhaust note, perfect between baffle and non-baffled. There is always just one more thing. LOL.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

nozeitgeist1800
3 hours ago, Devilman said:

Change the exhaust baffle to a MT-09 one. Gives a nice exhaust note, perfect between baffle and non-baffled. There is always just one more thing. LOL.

i actually thought about that, but i like the sound my bike makes and i really like the volume - i work nights so its nice that i dont wake up my neighbors unless i want to

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Swapped out the chinesium exhaust the previous owner had with a Yoshi exhaust I bought from a private seller. Sounds much better and is not as loud at idle. Got it flashed again by 2WDW. Shoutout to @Pursuvant for measuring the exhaust spring lengths (2.3 in, or 59 mm) for the Yoshi exhaust so I could buy the correct size. Those springs were a pain to get on, so I appreciate your help even more knowing that you had to remove your springs. Wallet hurts a little but now but I am taking my advanced MSF course this weekend, so other people will have no choice but to listen to my exhaust.

yoshimura_mt07.thumb.jpg.e2a12b1a65440535442772e313aeafb5.jpg

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well I don’t think I did it but the previous owner did. Well I had my suspicions because the right side frame bolt that goes into the engine was semi stripped out me doing stunt riding probably compounded this but I noticed this today while drinking coffee checking the bike for any issues like I normally do I am going to go buy a brand new 2022 one this afternoon in blue dammit I just got this thing running, right 

cracked frame as anybody had this happen or heard of it

IMG_0076.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ouch!  that's a terrible cup of coffee to have to swallow.  maybe a stress fracture and the stunting exacerbated the issue?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.