I replaced rear brake pads and now I don't have pedal pre3

[Giovanni]

Hey everyone I bought HH brake pads for my  2016 fzo7. I replaced the pads put on the caliper and now I don't have any pressure in the pedal. I tried bleeding the brakes, one little bubble came out in the beginning And after that nothing. So it's not a bleeding problem. But what I do notice is when I push the brake the caliper is wiggling. I tried putting on the OEM pads and the same problem happens. The caliper never moved before I suspect it's maybe the bolts but they are tightened all the way. I don't know what to do. does anyone have any ideas on how to keep the caliper securely in place. I'm asking because I suspect that is the problem

[mossrider]

I've attached copies of the service manual for reference.

But; As covered many times before, when we undertake a routine maintenance task or simple part replacement and we encounter problems or issues it's rarely a fluke but almost certainly an error or mistake or overlooked step that created the situation. Carefully and completely re-do all your steps and retry the brakes before concluding it's some other mystery failure.

I'll bet you when you get it all re-done you'll find a couple things. First, something you didn't have quite right and second a bleeding issue. Rear calipers can be sensitive to air bubbles. I alternately elevate both ends (pedal assembly and caliper assembly) and rebleed them. Or better yet, vacuum bleed if you can.

Good luck!

[YZEtc]

Describe the steps you took while changing the pads.

[Giovanni]

On 11/23/2019 at 4:22 AM, YZEtc said:

Describe the steps you took while changing the pads.

1.I loosened the rear brake caliper bolt

2. Loosened the screw plug + the brake pad retaining bolt 

3. Loosened the brake caliper retaining bolt 

4. Unscrewed steps 1 and 2

5. Pivoted the caliper upwards 

6. Removed the pads

(disclaimer. I forgot the the brake pad spring in there and spun the wheel bending the spring by accident, tried to bend it back, realized I couldn't so I ordered a new spring) 

7. Installed new pads

8. Tightened all bolts 

Then the problem started happening. When I applied the brakes the caliper hinges just alittle. (it used to be completely fixed) giving me the impression that most of the braking force is going in to that free motion of the caliper instead of the rotor. 

Did I miss anything 

[Giovanni]

On 11/22/2019 at 8:49 PM, mossrider said:

I've attached copies of the service manual for reference.

But; As covered many times before, when we undertake a routine maintenance task or simple part replacement and we encounter problems or issues it's rarely a fluke but almost certainly an error or mistake or overlooked step that created the situation. Carefully and completely re-do all your steps and retry the brakes before concluding it's some other mystery failure.

I'll bet you when you get it all re-done you'll find a couple things. First, something you didn't have quite right and second a bleeding issue. Rear calipers can be sensitive to air bubbles. I alternately elevate both ends (pedal assembly and caliper assembly) and rebleed them. Or better yet, vacuum bleed if you can.

Good luck!

Thank you but I have the service manual and everything to the letter. I cant think of what I missed 

[YZEtc]

A little bit of movement when you put your hand on the caliper is normal because the caliper must be able to slide back and forth to center the brake rotor between the pads correctly, allowing the pads to be squeezed evenly on both sides.

So, when you push the brake pedal, the piston moves out a small amount, the pads are forced onto the rotor, and the caliper will slide a small amount while doing so, and when the minute bit of sliding is taken-up, the pads are then forced into the rotor with enough pressure to provide the friction called braking.

The movement when twisting the caliper by hand is the small amount of play between those moving parts.

The caliper, itself, does not hold the pads from rotating forward when you step on the brake pedal, but the bracket that the pads slide onto does that job.

The caliper holds the pads from falling out to the side and supplies the squeezing force to provide the friction.

When it's working properly, the free play should be taken up and the caliper should feel more solid while stepping on the brake pedal.

When you were changing the pads, did you push the piston back into the caliper?

If so, was the bleeder screw closed or open?

Edited November 25, 2019 by YZEtc

[kylerhsm]

I don't see how you managed to pull the old pads out and simply put new ones in without having to compress the pistons to fit them on. The new pads should have been too tight. If you did compress the pistons, I've found that sometimes in the past I've had to pump the brakes a few times before slotting the caliper back over the disc to allow the piston(s) to move back into a position where it holds the pads up against the disc.