MT07 Engine Temps

[Q_mass]

Hi Guys, 

At which temperatures do you start accelerating harder? They say that with synthetic oils you're good to go as soon as you start the engine. I usually let it warm up until the temperature shows up, and then I will wait until it hits 80C (176F) before I start accelerating really hard. 

Yesterday, I had to accelerate really fast when the temperature was at 66C (150F), as I was joining a motorway and had to build up my speed really quickly due to a speeding car approaching me too fast... And I am literally worrying that the pistons could got damaged... I didn't accelerate all the way to red line, if anything it was only up to 4,5k revs, and then I would shift up.. My papa said that at 150F the engine is already warm enough, obviously it's not like I do it all the time, but I still have fears that I am slowly going to lose some horsepower, as this is my first big bike that I have actually bought with my own saved money. 

What are the temperatures that you usually start revving your bike a bit more? Popping wheelies etc.? I have noticed that until my bike doesn't hit 176F, it feels a bit sluggish and acceleration doesn't seem as smooth. 

[mossrider]

With all due respect, it is entirely possible that a well meaning, intelligent person can become some what of a motochondriac.  The bike has rudimentary means of seeing to its own longevity. The ECU uses sensors and programming to protect itself and will display a warning or go into limp mode before you damage it due to out of range temperatures.  It also has a rev limiter to protect it from on ramps and rampaging Prius'. 

If it has temp on the guage you can enjoy it as built. 

Ride on.

[norcal616]

I let the bike warm up enough to go past "lo" temp if it been sitting overnight or longer... if I'm already out and about running errands the bike only warms up enough in the time it takes me to put on helmet/gloves... in all honesty I barely pay attention to the temp gauge- Tachometer/shift light and speedo are more important... 

[geophb]

21 minutes ago, mossrider said:

With all due respect, it is entirely possible that a well meaning, intelligent person can become some what of a motochondriac.  The bike has rudimentary means of seeing to its own longevity. The ECU uses sensors and programming to protect itself and will display a warning or go into limp mode before you damage it due to out of range temperatures.  It also has a rev limiter to protect it from on ramps and rampaging Prius'. 

If it has temp on the guage you can enjoy it as built. 

Ride on.

I respectfully disagree. The ecu has no such limitations. Unless your thinking of overheating, then it does, but not for the 'cold' side of things. 

That said, as long as your not bang shifting gears while bouncing off the rev limiter  right after you start it, you wont hurt anything.

BTW the bike has a ~180F thermostat. So you waiting to 176f seems extreme to me.

As mossrider stated, "If it has temp on the gauge you can enjoy it as built." 

[shinyribs]

Q_mass, with your water temp showing 150 degrees you can be certain your engine was actually much warmer than that. It takes quite a bit of time for the combustion heat to actually transfer in to the water, and then for the sensor to read out. Temperature sensors can't give immediate readings. With the coated cylinders these engines use, and the warm engine you had, you have absolutely nothing to worry about. Brisk acceleration at 4.5k rpm is a cake walk for these engines. You didn't hurt a thing. 

[Q_mass]

23 minutes ago, geophb said:

BTW the bike has a ~180F thermostat. So you waiting to 176f seems extreme to me.

 

I will start riding once the temp goes past "lo" reading, when the temp starts appearing, then I will ride off easily on low revvs.

 

I will only start riding EXTREMELY, once the temp hits 180F as this is optimal temperature. Not only, the bike feels to run smoothly af! 

[1tondriver]

In all honesty I just send it once I get out of my subdivision that takes about 60 seconds. I hope I am not killing it prematurely 

[Q_mass]

24 minutes ago, shinyribs said:

Q_mass, with your water temp showing 150 degrees you can be certain your engine was actually much warmer than that. It takes quite a bit of time for the combustion heat to actually transfer in to the water, and then for the sensor to read out. Temperature sensors can't give immediate readings. With the coated cylinders these engines use, and the warm engine you had, you have absolutely nothing to worry about. Brisk acceleration at 4.5k rpm is a cake walk for these engines. You didn't hurt a thing. 

Haha Thank you for this response!! This is just what I needed!! Where it's my first bike, and of course I do not want to keep it for too long, I would like to sell it soon and not lose any money on it. 

Where I had my YZF-R125, I was told that  the pressure of my engine cylinders wend down by couple of PSI's because I was sometimes revving it all the way to red field... Obviously, this was my first bike, and the engine was a small 125cc, with no temp indicators etc. And I'm having my fears from watching people changing their engine oil, and picking up small bits of metals from inside... Haha 

[mossrider]

32 minutes ago, geophb said:

I respectfully disagree. The ecu has no such limitations. Unless your thinking of overheating, then it does, but not for the 'cold' side of things. 

The ECU measures rpm, ambient air temp, intake air pressure, engine temp etc and runs in 'warm up' until ECU senses motor is in optimal operating range. This is why it seems cold or lethargic on start up. It also serves as a defacto safety against damage. 

[DewMan]

7 minutes ago, Q_mass said:

I will only start riding EXTREMELY, once the temp hits 180F as this is optimal temperature. Not only, the bike feels to run smoothly af! 

FYI: Depending on the ambient temperature It may not always get to 180F during warm up.  I was out riding yesterday while the temperatures were in the 60s and I never saw the coolant temp get above 178F even at 70+ MPH highway driving and city driving. Your experience may vary.

[geophb]

3 minutes ago, mossrider said:

The ECU measures rpm, ambient air temp, intake air pressure, engine temp etc and runs in 'warm up' until ECU senses motor is in optimal operating range. This is why it seems cold or lethargic on start up. It also serves as a defacto safety against damage. 

100% agree. But its not for damage prevention, its for running quality. Similar to running partial choke on an engine with a carburetor til it warms up some. There's nothing in the ecu to prevent the user from starting the engine with 0 degree oil then instantly trying to pull a 8 sec quarter mile down his/her driveway.

Just keeping trying to keep misinformation at bay.

[Q_mass]

We have a temp of 41F on average here in UK at this moment, and it takes roughly about 10 minutes for my bike to hit optimal temperature of 172F. I have a DNA Air filter installed on it with Black Widow exhaust and I have noticed that it doesn't heat up as fast as it use to do... But when i get stuck in traffic in Central London, then the bike would be overheating, and the fan would be coming on every two bloody minutes. 

[rfmueller]

High revving a COLD  engine will wear those rings out much faster than if you give it a few minutes to get a readout on the temp gauge.  Once the readout says something other than "lo", it's had plenty of time to get warm and circulate.  Oil is like honey at 32 degrees; don't rev hard.  But, when any engine gets to ambient temp (only 75 degrees is needed), and has had time to circulate the engine, let er rip!   Your transmission is cooled by the same oil as the engine is lubricated, so that isn't an issue either.

Being kind until the gauge returns a temperature readout is plenty of overkill.

 

 

[Beemer]

Shakespeare would've titled this thread, "Much Ado About Nothing." 

Thank you @mossrider for the new word, "motochondriac", love it! Nothing like a good cup of coffee and a laugh to start the day!