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rfmueller

Throttle Body Reference Side Gone

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rfmueller

Okay, so without going in to the long gruesome details, I need to regain the throttle body reference side to my bike.  Both sides are toast.  Anybody know some magic trick to getting this thing back to factory position?  Idle is fine.  Just need correct starting point for fuel to air on the TB reference side so I can balance the other side to it.  And, a clean set of shorts.

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rfmueller
2 hours ago, rfmueller said:

Okay, so without going in to the long gruesome details, I need to regain the throttle body reference side to my bike.  Both sides are toast.  Anybody know some magic trick to getting this thing back to factory position?  Idle is fine.  Just need correct starting point for fuel to air on the TB reference side so I can balance the other side to it.  And, a clean set of shorts.

Okay, nobody responded to this.  As luck would have it, a fellow I work with used to be a certified Honda/Suzuki mechanic.  I asked him the above question.  Here's his answer:  "Only way to verify is to adjust the reference, synch to the reference tb, and then go ride.  Pull the plugs and check. White is too lean, dark and wet is too rich.  Try to find a sweet middle point.  Also riding it you can tell rich vs lean somewhat. Really lean will backfire and pop when you let off the gas, Rich will sort of bog out when you give it throttle and pick up as it gets more air. May need to readjust idle screw after adjustments too. Hope this helps."  Throttle body reference setup is done at idle, so he continues "...To be honest you want to kill the bike while it is running in the range you are trying to check. So if you want to check your idle A/F ratio then shut it off while idling and check plugs. Midrange, hold throttle half open and kill bike then read plugs.  Wide open, same process.  I would check idle and mid for yours. Main fuel circuit will be controlled by your ecu. Those screws are really only adjusting idle and a little mid-range."  I pulled a few spark plug images off line to compare to, and even better still, i have the original spark plugs from the bike and they look very healthy; lean according to some of the charts, but those were more for racing.  This will be a long process. I'm also assuming he had the use of a dyno so the engine did bounce against the rev limiter by just putting it half throttle or full throttle, and cutting the engine.  He got out of the business because the pay was poor.

 

 

 

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Cruizin
4 hours ago, rfmueller said:

Okay, so without going in to the long gruesome details, I need to regain the throttle body reference side to my bike.  Both sides are toast.  Anybody know some magic trick to getting this thing back to factory position?  Idle is fine.  Just need correct starting point for fuel to air on the TB reference side so I can balance the other side to it.  And, a clean set of shorts.

Moving this out of tech tips, because this is not a tech tip. Thanks for following up with what you learned. 

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peteinpa

If someone else is about to do a sync, maybe they can count the turns on their screw till lightly seated.

The advice about lean and rich is wrong. All these screws are setting is air bleed past the throttle plates.

 


Got new red 2015 FZ-07 on 7/22/16!
Black 2006 Honda ST1300 53K miles.

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twf

Good luck reading spark plugs. It is year 2019, not 60's.

Those screws can be anywhere from 0 to 1.5 turns out, and different between left and right side. 

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geophb

I guess i'm not following what the problem is here exactly.  Idle airflow is controlled by IAC valve, the throttle blades should be equal in movement, I can't remember if they are closed completely or slightly open at idle.  The screws are just to adjust for airflow inconsistencies between the throttle bodies.  

So you backed the screws out and don't know how far to go back? or?

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DewMan
1 hour ago, geophb said:

I guess i'm not following what the problem is here exactly.  Idle airflow is controlled by IAC valve, the throttle blades should be equal in movement, I can't remember if they are closed completely or slightly open at idle.  The screws are just to adjust for airflow inconsistencies between the throttle bodies.  

So you backed the screws out and don't know how far to go back? or?

When synchronizing the throttle bodies only one side is adjusted. The other side, I forget which,  is not to be touched. If I understand the OP correctly, It appears the OP oopsed and adjusted both sides and now he's not sure how to set the reference side back to where it was. 


DewMan
 
Just shut up and ride.

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geophb

If thats case then just run one half way out about and then get out your gauges and sync the other to it.  Or just turn the screws the same on both sides.  Its really just splitting hairs making sure there synced via gauge in my opinion.  The instant you open the throttle those screws are irrelevant.

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rfmueller

I've discovered that stock "anything" runs almost ridiculously lean.  There's a mile of latitude in the TB adjustments between lean and rich.  Since realizing that most engines are nearly blistering the spark plugs because of the lean condition, the setup wasn't as sensitive or painstaking as I thought it would be.  The idle TB settings are also for exactly that:  Idle only, and getting off the line.   The advice the tech gave me was correct.  Turns out the bike was a tad too lean with popping and backfiring at one point.  Then, after another setup, it felt like there were a couple of wind ponies on steriods lifting the front end off the ground on startup.  But, in the end, it's set up to pretty close to where it was before undertaking the whole TP balancing in the first place.  

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