Chain and sprockets source for 520 conversion

[fzar]

3 hours ago, mossrider said:

I'm special.

That you are. In the best way possible.

[fzar]

It’s not, I had to check it.

[fzar]

Here’s the unseal was box it came in;

[mossrider]

Um, check your paperwork.  If you ordered an ERV3 ($150ish) and got that chain ($90ish) you got greased.  The VX3 is a decent chain but it's not DID's top of the line. 

[1tondriver]

On 9/27/2019 at 9:06 PM, mossrider said:

Ok, here's what a spring nut looks like, it's similar to a nylock and accomplishes the same thing.

 

I've never had any of my Superlite rear sprockets fail or even wear out.

Bob you still liking the Superlite sprockets? Winter madness has me looking at a 520 conversion  

Also, are you using a spring nut on your spool/chain adjuster? Older thread but thought I would ask. 

[mossrider]

1 hour ago, 1tondriver said:

Bob you still liking the Superlite sprockets? Winter madness has me looking at a 520 conversion  

Also, are you using a spring nut on your spool/chain adjuster? Older thread but thought I would ask. 

Sprockets are gooders, hold up nice. They last much longer than aluminum, especially when horsing around the pits at race pace trying to keep up with calls to grid and such. I always start the weekend with airything straight/level/plumb but by load up it's all oshkaschizim and I have to start over when I get home.

The chain adjusters have spring pressure from an added spring inside to hold the blocks in place when the wheel is dismounted, so I really don't need jamb nuts there. I put them on periodically just to rotate my parts bin supply by scattering them around on track tho. 

[1tondriver]

18 minutes ago, mossrider said:

Sprockets are gooders, hold up nice. They last much longer than aluminum, especially when horsing around the pits at race pace trying to keep up with calls to grid and such. I always start the weekend with airything straight/level/plumb but by load up it's all oshkaschizim and I have to start over when I get home. ">

The chain adjusters have spring pressure from an added spring inside to hold the blocks in place when the wheel is dismounted, so I really don't need jamb nuts there. I put them on periodically just to rotate my parts bin supply by scattering them around on track tho.  ">

Thanks! I know you tried all sorts of sprocket combos did you ever settle on just one?

[mossrider]

Just now, 1tondriver said:

Thanks! I know you tried all sorts of sprocket combos did you ever settle on just one?

Nope. We're constantly messing with gearing so whatever is on there now isn't later and might be tommorow but never again yesterday. 

[Spatt]

On 10/5/2019 at 2:10 AM, fzar said:

How is it your DID 520 ERV3 Gold, doesn't look like the 1 I ordered the outside links are gold but the inside links are natural (as in the same as OEM)? I'm confused.

ERV3 are all gold.  Should have been in an ugly gold box with early 90s looking graphics.  
 

even in a spool of 1920 links they don’t offer the ERV3 in natural.  Sounds like you got the VX2.  

[fzar]

45 minutes ago, Spatt said:

Sounds like you got the VX2.

I got the VX3, I was looking at the ERV3 and that's what I thought I had ordered. I didn't realise that when I did the sprocket and chain combo it was for the VX3, it's all good.

[seven]

On 12/16/2019 at 4:19 PM, fzar said:

I got the VX3, I was looking at the ERV3 and that's what I thought I had ordered. I didn't realise that when I did the sprocket and chain combo it was for the VX3, it's all good.

 

On 10/5/2019 at 7:44 AM, mossrider said:

Um, check your paperwork.  If you ordered an ERV3 ($150ish) and got that chain ($90ish) you got greased.  The VX3 is a decent chain but it's not DID's top of the line. 

 Sorry to bump an old thread but I was looking for more information on chains and thought I would share this information. I contacted DID asking for the differences in the VX3, ERV7 (which replaced the ERV3) and RVM-X. I told them I am basically just a street rider and that I might do some track days in the future and that I was looking to do a 520 conversion. I also told them I wasn't a huge fan of gold chains but if there was a solid reason to go with a chain that only comes in gold (ERV7) that I would do it. Here is what they said:
 

Personally, I would go with the 520VX3. This chain will give you plenty of
tensile strength, is lighter than the ERV7 and ZVM-X, and it is available in
natural steel if that is what you prefer.

The ERV7 is our top-of-the-line racing chain that gives you the greatest
strength-weight ratio and would be overkill for your riding style.

The ZVM-X is our strongest series of chain that is basically a beefier
version of the VX3. With thicker plates comes more tensile strength but also
more weight.

Looking at the weight between the VX and ERV it is pretty minimal but the ERV is significantly more expensive.

520VX3 - 120 links, 4.02 lbs, tensile strength 8210 lbs, $102.00

520ERV7 - 120 links, 4.09 lbs, tensile strength 9800 lbs, $208.80

520ZVM-X - 120 links, 4.31 lbs, tensile strength 8745 lbs, $188.40

[Pursuvant]

On 9/10/2019 at 6:32 PM, bugsinteeth said:

figuring on changing to 520....as the stock chain is junk

I ran that stock junk chain 20K miles and it's still not technically worn out. I never clean my chain, I keep it wet. Junk is not the right word, try "neglected"

Edited March 3, 2021 by Pursuvant

[seven]

Looking for some opinions on chains...basically a "what would you do?" situation. I am in Canada and found a couple options with chains that I thought I would get some input to see what you all thought. Looking for a bang for the buck or cost benefit angle I guess. Keep in mind these are Canadian dollars:

ThreeD (EK) 520Z - $260 for 120 links

ThreeD (EK) 520GP - $308 for 120 links

DID 520ERV7 - $329 for 120 links

DID 520ZVMX - $100 for 110 links (natural) or $130 for 130 links (silver)

DID 520VX3 - $108 for 110 links

To me, it seems like the VX3 and ZVMX in Natural are the best bang for the buck but would like some other opinions.

Also if I did a sprocket swap to a 16/44 or 16/45 would 110 links be too few and therefore should I opt more links and cut the chain?

What does the stock chain weigh? I am trying to Google it and haven't found any definitive answer but I am still looking. Seems like a couple of the options above might not be any lighter that stock.

Edited March 4, 2021 by seven
Added question about stock chain weight. Added the VX3 chain

[stickshift]

8 hours ago, seven said:

Looking for a bang for the buck or cost benefit angle I guess.

VX3 best suits your criteria I reckon. Lighter than the VMx for a few bucks more.

Nearly all 520 chains will be lighter than the stock 525.

[seven]

3 hours ago, stickshift said:

VX3 best suits your criteria I reckon. Lighter than the VMx for a few bucks more.

Nearly all 520 chains will be lighter than the stock 525.

I was trying to did up more information on the stock chain and what I found is that the stock chain is a DID 525VAZ which apparently is the equivalent of the VX chains. So I guess the VX3 would be a little lighter but it seems like the stock chain might already be pretty light. Not that I think I would notice it a whole lot in my type of riding but I like the idea of weight reduction on vehicles.

One thing I do not know is if the stock chain is just a plain (natural) chain or if it is black coated. I have some pictures but I really can't tell from them and my bike is tucked away for the winter still. 

[shinyribs]

Stock chain is natural, at least mine was when new. 

520 chain will feel noticably lighter in your hand, but all sealed chains have a certain degree of friction that far outweighs the "drag" of the rotational mass. All oring or xring chains I've had seem equal in regards to the amount of drag the seals give. Xring chains from DID have noticably less drag in my experience. 

 

If you never ridden an unsealed chain ( non oring/xring) the difference is eye opening. Your bike will actually coast! It requires more dedicated maintenance, but if you need maximum performance, that's the ticket. 

 

[seven]

11 hours ago, shinyribs said:

Stock chain is natural, at least mine was when new. 

520 chain will feel noticably lighter in your hand, but all sealed chains have a certain degree of friction that far outweighs the "drag" of the rotational mass. All oring or xring chains I've had seem equal in regards to the amount of drag the seals give. Xring chains from DID have noticably less drag in my experience. 

 

If you never ridden an unsealed chain ( non oring/xring) the difference is eye opening. Your bike will actually coast! It requires more dedicated maintenance, but if you need maximum performance, that's the ticket. 

 

Thanks. My only concern with a natural chain versus a plated chain is the issue of rust...but if the stock chain is in fact natural then I have far less concern as it so far seems fine.

From what I can tell the stock chain is about 0.5 to 0.75 lbs heavier than any of the other chains I am looking at. Considerably stronger though but that is to be expected.

[shinyribs]

3 hours ago, seven said:

Thanks. My only concern with a natural chain versus a plated chain is the issue of rust...but if the stock chain is in fact natural then I have far less concern as it so far seems fine.

From what I can tell the stock chain is about 0.5 to 0.75 lbs heavier than any of the other chains I am looking at. Considerably stronger though but that is to be expected.

I do believe DID's "natural finish" chains are actually zinc plated vs being completely raw steel. I can't swear to that, but they're right shade of silver to be zinc plated, like a standard fastener is.

[Triple Jim]

24 minutes ago, shinyribs said:

I do believe DID's "natural finish" chains are actually zinc plated vs being completely raw steel. I can't swear to that, but they're right shade of silver to be zinc plated, like a standard fastener is.

If it is bare steel it may actually be an advantage.  If you see rust it means you're not maintaining your chain.  When I bought a used Ninja 250 the seller couldn't figure out why the O-ring chain was rusty.  I explained that it's because it hadn't been lubricated in a long time.

[seven]

28 minutes ago, shinyribs said:

I do believe DID's "natural finish" chains are actually zinc plated vs being completely raw steel. I can't swear to that, but they're right shade of silver to be zinc plated, like a standard fastener is.

Hard to say because even the reply from D.I.D. doesn't exactly answer it and I read it as there is no plating but maybe it is single plated compared to the double-plating of the gold/silver/black?
 From D.I.D. - "A chain’s finish won’t affect its performance, but does give it an extra coating to help prevent rust and corrosion. Any of our gold, silver, or black chains are double-plated for extra protection. This plating doesn’t make it completely rust-free, but helps. Cleaning an lubrication are your best friends when it comes to that."

[seven]

3 minutes ago, Triple Jim said:

If it is bare steel it may actually be an advantage.  If you see rust it means you're not maintaining your chain.  When I bought a used Ninja 250 the seller couldn't figure out why the O-ring chain was rusty.  I explained that it's because it hadn't been lubricated in a long time.

So far I like tinkering on my bike so I was cleaning and lubing my chain every 2 or 3 weeks (~400 to 500km). Sadly I am the person that will take care of my vehicles in terms of maintenance and want to use quality fuel, lubrication, parts but I am less concerned about keeping my vehicles otherwise clean...I mean they are not disgusting messes like my wife's car but a typical enthusiast might give me the stink eye. 

[Triple Jim]

19 minutes ago, seven said:

So far I like tinkering on my bike so I was cleaning and lubing my chain every 2 or 3 weeks (~400 to 500km). Sadly I am the person that will take care of my vehicles in terms of maintenance and want to use quality fuel, lubrication, parts but I am less concerned about keeping my vehicles otherwise clean...I mean they are not disgusting messes like my wife's car but a typical enthusiast might give me the stink eye. 

That's me as well. I am careful to do what it takes to keep it in top mechanical condition, but don't spend a lot of time washing and waxing.      I'm even worse with my cars.  I call them "self cleaning" because when the dirt builds up enough it starts falling off on its own.