RFID Push button ignition install

[RacerXSD 4]

Morning Team,

I installed  a cheap RFID push button ignitition unit to bypass the key ignition. 

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 The install turned out to be easy and should take less than an hour.  I'd never done it, so took much longer. 

I'll forgo explaining how to take off the seat and fairing, but you need access to the left side, so that fairing with the R/R needs to come off.  Might help to remove to top 2 bolts of the headlight and lower it down to get at the ignition wiring bundle easier.  You can also remove the housing bolts for the R/R and get easier access to the harness.

Disconnect the negative terminal on battery first.

No wires need to be attached to the stock ignition bundle, just couple after the connector to the main wiring.  There are 2 harnesses from ignition - ignition ( 2 wires - Red and brown) and key circuit sensor (3 wires - 2 small black/red and Brown/Red) - those connect to the wires you need for reference.  Don't install to those.

Take the white wire from box and couple it with the red/white wire - that's ignition.

Red wire from box needs to be attached to power, I connected directly to the battery terminal.

Black wire from box needs ground, I stuck that under a bolt at the rear of the seat area.

Blue wire needs to connect to the ACC/Turn signals - red/yellow on small harness. 

There 2 small black/pink wires in the smaller harness, those both need to be coupled and sent to ground.  I coupled both to the black wired from the box.  I clipped the yellow wire off of the box to run this as yellow is the starter wire that we're not using.

Brown wire is not needed.

Small green and brown wire connection to the box is for brake pedal, this is not used - don't plug into the box

I put the RFID reader behind the plastic under the rear seat.  Reads through the plastic fine.

I put the push button under the side faring tucked up so I could still push it, but couldn't be seen.

 

I didn't take pictures as I was going, but based on the wiring diagram I'm looking at for reference, I think those are the correct colors.

 

That's pretty much it. 

 

 

[sansnombre 139]

Is this for security issues? Instead of key ignition or in addition to it?

Sorry for the lame question, but why?

[topazsparrow 325]

4 hours ago, sansnombre said:

Is this for security issues? Instead of key ignition or in addition to it?

Sorry for the lame question, but why?

I strongly suspect this is for convenience more than anything.

Unless you bring your key anyway, you can't lock your steering.

[RacerXSD 4]

The stock position of the instrument cluster was too low for my liking, I had to look down too far.  So I put a couple risers on the cluster and it now sits above the ignition.  I have to go around the riser to get my key in.  Not very convenient.  So this eliminates that issue.

[topazsparrow 325]

1 hour ago, RacerXSD said:

The stock position of the instrument cluster was too low for my liking, I had to look down too far.  So I put a couple risers on the cluster and it now sits above the ignition.  I have to go around the riser to get my key in.  Not very convenient.  So this eliminates that issue.

Thats cool you've got the bike the way you like it, pretty clever solutions there as well.

 

But.. I do wonder why people buy naked bikes and decide they don't like not being able to see their controls or windscreens in front of them. That's the entire point of a naked bike generally - to feel like you're flying down a road on your own with nothing between you and the environment.

[RacerXSD 4]

Thanks!  I got it mostly based on the motor, ease of working on it and lack of plastic.  Also the price, seating position and handling.  I had a 95 VFR before.  This is way lighter.  I mostly use it to commute.  I put a smoke windscreen on it.  I also re-routed the horn button to a larger button towards the top of the indicator controls.  The horn was just below the turn signal buttons, so I'd hit it inadvertently especially when cancelling the signal.  True, I still need the key to lock the steering, trunk and gas cap.  But I got a small cable lock for the helmet since the trunk lock process is annoying.  I can use that to also lock the wheel.  Mirror risers, upgraded brake pads and tail tidy w/light also.  Simple do at home stuff to improve the ride.

[topazsparrow 325]

1 hour ago, RacerXSD said:

Thanks!  I got it mostly based on the motor, ease of working on it and lack of plastic.  Also the price, seating position and handling.  I had a 95 VFR before.  This is way lighter.  I mostly use it to commute.  I put a smoke windscreen on it.  I also re-routed the horn button to a larger button towards the top of the indicator controls.  The horn was just below the turn signal buttons, so I'd hit it inadvertently especially when cancelling the signal.  True, I still need the key to lock the steering, trunk and gas cap.  But I got a small cable lock for the helmet since the trunk lock process is annoying.  I can use that to also lock the wheel.  Mirror risers, upgraded brake pads and tail tidy w/light also.  Simple do at home stuff to improve the ride.

Oh man that stupid horn button...

 

The R3 controls swap is next on my list thankfully.