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kylerhsm

MT07 Left Switch Upgrade

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Bigturbomax
Posted (edited)

Thank you SO MUCH for sharing the pin out! Ive been thinking about putting an R6 switch on mine for exactly the reasons you mentioned. You just saved me a ton of time. Good work friend!

Edited by Bigturbomax
Typo

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sorkyah

Thnx a bunch @kylerhsm

Just ordered an r3 pod 

My oem pod was causing a short in the cluster that wouldn't allow the indicator lights (neutral, high beam, l/r flasher) to actually light up


ATGATT... ATTATT, two acronyms I live by.
 

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Toei
Posted (edited)

kylerhsm - This post is so good I had to join the forum!  I'd love to do this to my XSR700 but the switch pod harnesses are much longer on the XSR (around 10" longer if I remember right).  Is the R3 harness the same length as the MT07 one?  If it's somewhere between the MT and XSR ones it might work, as I installed a shorter bar on my bike.  But I tried to fit a MT07 pod (to take up some of the harness slack after installing the shorter bar) and the harness wasn't even close to being long enough.  To fit I'd need a harness 6" longer than the MT07 one if memory serves.  

Edited by Toei

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shinyribs
Posted (edited)

This is fantastic. Thank You! 

Any particular spread of years to shop for on the R3 switch?

Edited by shinyribs

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sorkyah
10 hours ago, shinyribs said:

This is fantastic. Thank You! 

Any particular spread of years to shop for on the R3 switch?

When I ordered mine the part number fit the 15-18 models

1WD-H3972-00-00 SWITCH, HANDLE 4

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ATGATT... ATTATT, two acronyms I live by.
 

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sansnombre

Ah, damn! Anything to get away from that awful placement of the horn button.

How much are people paying for the pod? Is this a $50 or $250 upgrade?

Well done, thanks.

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robbo10
3 hours ago, sansnombre said:

Ah, damn! Anything to get away from that awful placement of the horn button.

I've got a head start on this problem because both of my bikes have the 'funny' switch switch.


Just do it! 

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sorkyah
7 hours ago, sansnombre said:

Ah, damn! Anything to get away from that awful placement of the horn button.

How much are people paying for the pod? Is this a $50 or $250 upgrade?

Well done, thanks.


YAMAHA Part Number 1WD-H3972-00-00 is a SWITCH, HANDLE 4, a Genuine Yamaha Original...

Got mine here for $62 after shipping

 

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ATGATT... ATTATT, two acronyms I live by.
 

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sansnombre
14 hours ago, sorkyah said:

Got mine here for $62 after shipping

Boom! On it's way.

Thanks.

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Omegakan

I received a "yzf R3 2015-2017" switch in yesterday but noticed that the plug is missing the green #10 pin.

I am curious if i ordered the wrong switch from ebay.  Either way, thanks OP for the handy work. Defiantly a worthwhile mod.  

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shinyribs
On 7/12/2019 at 1:06 PM, sansnombre said:

Ah, damn! Anything to get away from that awful placement of the horn button.

How much are people paying for the pod? Is this a $50 or $250 upgrade?

Well done, thanks.

I found a used one on eBay. Guy was asking $25, I offered $20. It's on its way to me now. 

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sorkyah
2 minutes ago, shinyribs said:

I found a used one on eBay. Guy was asking $25, I offered $20. It's on its way to me now. 

Damn.....

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ATGATT... ATTATT, two acronyms I live by.
 

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kylerhsm
On 7/12/2019 at 3:24 AM, Toei said:

kylerhsm - This post is so good I had to join the forum!  I'd love to do this to my XSR700 but the switch pod harnesses are much longer on the XSR (around 10" longer if I remember right).  Is the R3 harness the same length as the MT07 one?  If it's somewhere between the MT and XSR ones it might work, as I installed a shorter bar on my bike.  But I tried to fit a MT07 pod (to take up some of the harness slack after installing the shorter bar) and the harness wasn't even close to being long enough.  To fit I'd need a harness 6" longer than the MT07 one if memory serves.  

Mine came specifically from a 2016 MT03. The cable was far longer than the standard MT07 one, which made it actually slightly difficult to remount the headlight as I had to work out where to cram the extra cabling.

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kylerhsm
Posted (edited)
5 hours ago, Omegakan said:

I received a "yzf R3 2015-2017" switch in yesterday but noticed that the plug is missing the green #10 pin.

I am curious if i ordered the wrong switch from ebay.  Either way, thanks OP for the handy work. Defiantly a worthwhile mod.  

To all who have been reading through this post. As per this comment, up until now I was not aware that the R3 switch, although identical in appearance to the MT03 switch, does NOT have the green wire. I have just downloaded an R3 service manual to see what this is and it's because the R3 has two headlights. One is the low beam, which is always on, and the other is the high beam which is only on when switched. The MT03/MT07, because it runs a normal H4 bulb which is switchable between low/high beam, uses both the yellow and green wires from the pod. It looks like the R3 uses the yellow only and has no green, as the green runs internally within the loom straight to the headlight (not via the pod).

I am very sorry to those who purchased the R3 pods already, but I had no idea they were actually different and it was only coincidence that I happened to get myself an MT03 one. I have updated the original post at the top. Whilst it would probably be possible to add the green wire to the pod, as it's esentially the same hardware, I'm not sure how easy this would be and so I'd recommend getting the MT03 instead. Again, apologies for only realising this now.

Someone might be able to confirm if the green wire is actually there but just blanked off, but I have now confirmed they are a different part number.

Edited by kylerhsm

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Toei
6 hours ago, kylerhsm said:

Mine came specifically from a 2016 MT03. The cable was far longer than the standard MT07 one, which made it actually slightly difficult to remount the headlight as I had to work out where to cram the extra cabling.

OK great, thanks for the follow-up!  For those of us in the US that's not a cheap part to obtain (no MT-03 here), so I'll have to ponder on this.  

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shinyribs

I'm wondering if the loose pink ( power to horn) wire is present on the R3 switch. Also curious why there seems to be two power wires for the horn (brown and loose pink). Either way, I'll dissect the R3 switch when it arrives and see what the headlight rocker witch looks like. If it's a single pole, double throw switch with the ability to operate two beams then adding the green wire for low beam should be a breeze. Unless it's got a different switch inside and only the outer rocker is the same. They dang sure look identical! 

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shinyribs

Pics from the ebay ad for the switch I found. The switch is listed as 2015-18 R3

The black/yellow clutch switch connection there, along with the loose pink/black horn wires. Can't tell much about the main harness connector, though. 

s-l1600.jpg

 

s-l1600.jpg

s-l1600.jpg

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kylerhsm
3 hours ago, shinyribs said:

I'm wondering if the loose pink ( power to horn) wire is present on the R3 switch. Also curious why there seems to be two power wires for the horn (brown and loose pink). Either way, I'll dissect the R3 switch when it arrives and see what the headlight rocker witch looks like. If it's a single pole, double throw switch with the ability to operate two beams then adding the green wire for low beam should be a breeze. Unless it's got a different switch inside and only the outer rocker is the same. They dang sure look identical! 

I hope it ends up being a simple mod, for everyone's sake who went and bought an R3 switch. I feel bad for not picking this up when doing the mod myself but it was pure coincidence that I ended up with the MT03 switch, as I already had two R3 one's on my watch list before the cheaper MT03 popped up. The switch as you said looks identical, so hopefully it's just a spot weld of an additional wire (green) into the existing switch. If you get in there and it's a simple job, perhaps take a photo so it can add to this thread.

You can see the wires for the horn hanging off your switch there with the two spade connectors. You can also see where the green wire is missing next to the yellow in the bottom right corner. The pink wire spade connector runs directly to the horn switch inside the pod. The black wire spade connector runs back to the plug into Pin 8, so becomes redundant.

Best of luck. I've been commuting now for a week and this switch is SO MUCH better.

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sorkyah
57 minutes ago, kylerhsm said:

I hope it ends up being a simple mod, for everyone's sake who went and bought an R3 switch. I feel bad for not picking this up when doing the mod myself but it was pure coincidence that I ended up with the MT03 switch, as I already had two R3 one's on my watch list before the cheaper MT03 popped up. The switch as you said looks identical, so hopefully it's just a spot weld of an additional wire (green) into the existing switch. If you get in there and it's a simple job, perhaps take a photo so it can add to this thread.

You can see the wires for the horn hanging off your switch there with the two spade connectors. You can also see where the green wire is missing next to the yellow in the bottom right corner. The pink wire spade connector runs directly to the horn switch inside the pod. The black wire spade connector runs back to the plug into Pin 8, so becomes redundant.

Best of luck. I've been commuting now for a week and this switch is SO MUCH better.

Any chance you can take some photos for a more in-depth how-to

With your instructions and images as well as @shinyribs' input/images, we would have a complete mod 

We could then pin the thread as a how-to on the masterlist


ATGATT... ATTATT, two acronyms I live by.
 

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shinyribs
1 hour ago, kylerhsm said:

I hope it ends up being a simple mod, for everyone's sake who went and bought an R3 switch. I feel bad for not picking this up when doing the mod myself....

Don't feel bad! You clearly said you used an MT03 switch, then we ran out and found R3 switches....that's on us! 

I will take pictures when the switch arrives and I can see what's up.

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Omegakan

I decided to do what shinyribs was planning and jumped into the switch. It is totally doable and very easy.

Sorry for the crappy pics. My ram mount destroyed my phones camera.

Looks like all we need to do is solder a green wire to this pot and run it into the quick disconnect  plug.

RQM3KJhh.jpg

Post with 1 views. R3 to FZ07 switch conversion

 

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shinyribs

Yep, the R3 switch will work if you solder on to the unused terminal. Then attach in the harness like was mentioned above. 

01jgzvVl.jpg

 

You can splice the loose pink and black wires together and pull that junction back in to the sheath to tidy things up. Then attach the black end of that splice to the #10 position.

OXkp2h3l.jpg

The R3 harness is about twice as long and the original harness.

20bWZTml.jpg

 

The location pin on the 07 housing is in the 9:00 position vs the 12:00 position on the R3 switch.  The R3 locating pin is also on the inboard side of the switch.

07 viewed from bar end. 

yk23aAdl.jpg

 

R3 viewed from bar end. 

 

KJGSocUl.jpg

 

So, yep! It works. Just gotta add that green wire and pull the horn wires through and you're golden. Thank you again, kylerhsm, for getting the ball rolling on this! 

 

 

 

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bugeyes
Posted (edited)

Great find and thank you for the post!

I can't get used to the placement of the horn button and I see this mod coming on my bike soon.

 

Do you know if the year model for the 07 matters, mine is a 2015 made 2014?

Edited by bugeyes

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Omegakan

Thanks for the write up shineyribs.

As stated, the harness for the R3 is much longer than the FZ07's. Instead of cutting out wire and re-soldering ends, I decided to just cut and crimp all 10 new pins for the QD connector. For the R3 to FZ07 conversion, you will need to source at least one new connector anyways(unless you want to piggy back it like shineyribs has).

After some digging through datasheets, I found these... Sumitomo 1500-0110. They are identical to the factory pins. I bought a bag of 50 for 15.95 shipped. Here is the link...

s-l400.jpg

These are from Sumitomo in Japan. For Sealed Connector Series HM - MT - HW. Not here !

After filing away the alignment tab, I have the switch mounted and working perfectly. As stated before, big thanks to the OP and everyone who has contributed to this. I dont use the horn often(luckily), but when i do, I will not have to lift my hand to do so.

 

 

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