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Do my sprockets need to be replaced?


maz20

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I've been running custom 525 steel sprockets (15-tooth front and 45-rear) now for the past ~25K miles, but had to replace the OEM chain at ~20K and now have to replace an aftermarket one (also from JT Sprockets, https://amzn.to/30kzPYw) as well (seems to have held up just under 10K miles, rather crappy chain if you ask me! But, it was half the price of a D.I.D back then, and I thought proper chain maintenance should hold it up for as long too...)

So, this will be the 3rd chain these sprockets are gonna see!! (And this time, I'll get a good, quality, D.I.D)! But, I don't see a whole lot of wear on the sprockets themselves 🤔...

Do they really need to be replaced as well??

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Edited by maz20
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Reg ole steel(OEM) style sprockets can last a long time vs fancy light(alum, hybirds,etc) weight ones... 

My general rule is if chain/sprocket is less than a few thousand miles old I will swap out parts but once they start going past 5-7k miles I feel better off replacing both chain and sprocket...

The reason I replace both chain/sprocket is because "they" wear in together...if one replaces just the chain at approx 15k miles even if the sprocket don't "look" worn (eyeballing) you will chew up the new chain fairly quickly..

They are consumables in my book- just like car brake pads/rotors( you replace both inner and outer pads) and machine the rotors(if cheaper than buying new ones)... 

FYI: Yamaha kinda irked me using 525 sized chain instead of a 520 sized chain... Not alot of aftermarket for 525 vs 520... Even new R1s have 520 chains 😂... I find 520 is stocked in stores quite a bit vs 525... 

------ you can use 520 size chain if you also get 520 sized sprockets----

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2015 fz-07- Hordpower Edition...2015 fj-09- 120whp- Graves Exhaust w/Woolich Race Kit- tuned by 2WDW
 

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4 hours ago, norcal616 said:

------ you can use 520 size chain if you also get 520 sized sprockets----

Good info. 👍

I just wanted to add that using a 520 chain & sprockets is a nice way to lose weight and gain options usually at a cheaper price as you said, but if you go 520 don't go low end. Make sure the chain you choose is rated for the power output of your bike. The cheaper  520 chains aren't all rated for the power output of the MT/FZ-07. I chose a name brand 520 chain that is listed as appropriate for up to 1200cc engines. 

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DewMan
 
Just shut up and ride.

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Even a little wear on a sprocket can create a little slop on a new chain and wear it out prematurely. I wonder now if your slightly worn sprocket is the culprit for wearing out your chains. Are you sure everything is lined up properly? That can cause excessive wear also.

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Beemer

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22 hours ago, Beemer said:

Even a little wear on a sprocket can create a little slop on a new chain and wear it out prematurely. I wonder now if your slightly worn sprocket is the culprit for wearing out your chains. Are you sure everything is lined up properly? That can cause excessive wear also.

Well, I do regular chain maintenance every 500 miles or so^^

This chain in particular ("JT chain") had some really uneven stretch -- any adjustment to give it enough slack for the tightest ("least damaged") section makes the loosest come close to if not actually hitting the other parts of the bike below the swingarm : ///

Funny even the reviews for it (https://amzn.to/30kzPYw, I did not leave any however) pretty much lined up with my experience too (though, they weren't around back then when I was ordering it though!). Even the ones for the "less-heavy" or sub-liter bike version said the same thing https://amzn.to/2LFLsVE 🙁 

Though, for $53 + free shipping it is still somewhat half the price of a quality D.I.D...

Edited by maz20
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I'm not sure we're understanding each other, lol! Chain maintenance/adjustment is fine and all but it can't make a worn sprocket make contact on a new chain like a new sprocket would. 

 

Beemer

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michigan400

1) ALWAYS replace chain and sprockets (both front and rear) at the same time. Always. Brand of your choice but steel is better for sprockets and every day type of riding.

2) The FZ comes with a good O-ring chain so keep the slop off of it unless you want it to make it a dirt and crud magnet. Plastic bristle brush to knock the gunk off then spray just a little bit of whatever you want "on a rag" and then wipe it on the chain.  All your trying to do is clean it and get a very light film on it to keep rust off the outside of the links. I don't know how much you ride but do this sparingly. Maybe once or twice over the life of your chain and sprockets unless you run the bike through harsh conditions or park it outside every night. Then you just need to find your own schedule for it.

3) It's better to run a slightly loose chain than one that is over tightened. 

4) Get a system down to make sure your rear wheel is aligned properly if you do adjust it. You will need additional reference points other than the markers on the swing arm. Double check before tightening axle.

 

Stick with the above loose guidelines and your drive parts will last much longer and you will spend much less time adjusting, cleaning and lubing and more time riding and enjoying. That's my 2 cents on it anyway. Good luck!!

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