The infamous "Motoman" Method of breaking in an engine.

[jeepinbassist]

You can use any "car" oil just as long as it doesn't have the extra slick modifiers in it. Look at the back of the bottle. There is a circle within a circle. the "bad" oil has text in the bottom half of the outer ring. The good oil has nothing. Pretty much anything 10w40 or thicker won't have the bad additives. run standard dinosaur oil for the first 1500 miles (1/2 a season? surely you guys should be doing that within 2 months tops) and then you can use whatever you like. 
On my high-$$$ bikes I use full synth 10/40 or 10/50 because that's what the high-strung racing motors are designed around (aprilia and ktm). But for the FZ just use normal oil.
 
There is nothing special about Yam/Hon=Lube except your dealer gets to gouge you for your naivete. Any of the national auto-parts chains carry the proper stuff.

 
 
Thanks for the input. What about motorcycle specific oil that they sell at auto-part stores?

[jeepinbassist]

I'm going to pick up the oil. So basically any non synthetic oil 10W-40 oil with no wording in the bottom half of the circle will work. What brand do you guys recommend and how much will I need?
Also should I change the filter it comes with or just leave it?

[pattonme]

I use Shell Rotella and Castrol GTX since they come up on sale pretty often. Buy whatever's on sale. Yes, replace the filter. The only motorcycle "specific" oil I generally see at Auto-Zone et. al. is 20w50 for Harley's and 2-stroke. Though I have seen from time to time "4-stroke performance" (ie. HOnda/Yama-lub gimmick) depending on the store. Buy what makes you feel all good inside and what you don't mind spending. There isn't a hill of beans difference between them really, just marketing.
 
My CB750 had 95K miles on it (still original clutch, Penzoil, Castrol, Rotella), my Triumph Trident 900 had 45K on it (ran a 40:60 mix of full synth and GTX), my SV650 has 50K miles on it (GTX or Rotella), GS500e had 30K miles and many a race weekend on it (GTX), the KTM 525 and 690 get full synth 15w50 Motul, and the Aprilias get Castrol full-synth 10w40 in 5 gallon pails.
 
If you ride a lot and frequently, then you can let the oil go to 4K miles (synth can go 5-6K). I replace filters (except KTM) just because they're cheap and why not... The KTM gets new oil every 4 track weekends so those filters stay in an extra cycle if for no other reason they're a PITA to deal with.

[botbullet0]

Is it a huge deal to change the oil before 600 miles? I've been riding it hard and I'm up to 250. I've seen people say it's ok for 600 and others that say that it should be changed as low as 50 miles. I don't want metal shavings running around and break anything.

[bmwpowere36m3]

Probably not a huge deal... people break-in there engines the factory way and they run fine too. At 120 miles my oil was BLACK, but the oil filter only had a few shavings inside. Also shifting starting getting pretty notchy, changed the oil and shifting was slick again. Plan to change again at 400 or so miles. Its super easy, maybe 10-15 minutes tops and $20 in supplies.
I figured since I broke it in hard, I should change the oil sooner.

[botbullet0]

I've definitely noticed that the shifter has started feeling funny. I'll probably change it soon then. Thanks

[mike6116]

For break in you can use the cheapest oil you can find, just stay on 10w-40
 
I did motoman, my first oil change was on 50 miles, then at 150 miles, then at 300 miles and finally at 800 miles.
 
Have to say on the 50,150 and 300 miles oil had metal debris(few less on every change), at 800 miles oil was good. after you finish break in, then change to whatever oil brand you like... i use castrol for bike

[jeepinbassist]

I ended up getting castrol 10w-40 I just need to call and see who has a filter in stock.

[Cruizin]

Bumping this
 
Main thing is to avoid keeping it at same rpm first 300-600 miles. Dont baby it, don't bounce the rev limiter either. Just rev up, rev down while riding. Empty roads are great for this.