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Evill_Ed

Project FZ-07R/T

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fzar
On 3/30/2019 at 9:16 AM, mossrider said:

Ha, same problem, different solution. An early version before adding Gilles adjusters w/spools. Also put springs over the adjuster bolt to hold them forward and in place during wheel swaps. 😃

Studio_20190330_090841.jpg.291069608c9372c9c04d09328028226d.jpg

I'm going to have to borrow this idea also @mossrider cool setup.

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TMTYWSH

Can you recommend a windscreen to go with the woodcraft clipons, I tried one and it did not fit because my cables are in the way.

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Evill_Ed

I think it’s going to be tough to find a windscreen that fits with the woodcraft clip ons.  They sit pretty far forward which causes interference with most windshield. You could probably modify a windscreen by notching it by the clip ons..

 

Ed


"Do not let this bad example influence you, follow only what is good" 

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TMTYWSH
1 hour ago, Evill_Ed said:

I think it’s going to be tough to find a windscreen that fits with the woodcraft clip ons.  They sit pretty far forward which causes interference with most windshield. You could probably modify a windscreen by notching it by the clip ons..

 

Ed

I like this one, but it's for 2018+...

What about modifying one of these with brackets (I have a welder), but I want it to look good. Or change the angle with washers.

windscreen.jpg

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Evill_Ed

You can make just about anything fit if you modify it. You will probably need to trim the lower sections a bit to clear the clip ons. And maybe some modified or custom mounting brackets.

give it a try.

 

Ed


"Do not let this bad example influence you, follow only what is good" 

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FZWes
On 3/29/2019 at 6:05 PM, NiteRyder said:

dogbone.JPG.c445196e32f5cc01896e1d21a7494188.JPG

 

Am I correct in thinking that a shorter dog-bone = raised seat height?

What is the advantage to the shorter dog bone? It certainly looks beefer.

Ride safe, be well.

 

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mossrider
31 minutes ago, FZWes said:

What is the advantage to the shorter dog bone? 

It changes the leverage ratio on the shock making it more linear. It also raises the rear ride height, which in turn sharpens the steering (steepens the fork angle and puts more weight on the front) which also increases the swing arm angle making for better squat (traction) characteristics coming off corner.

 

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FZWes

Okay, so raising the rear ride height it steepens the fork angle. The term fork angle shouldn't be confused with rake that occurs at the neck or milled triple trees also changes the angle of the forks. I couldn't imagine raising the ride height would make that much a difference in the fork angle. As for putting more weight on the front does that reduce any weight from the rear?

Your reasoning/explanation is something I never gave any thought to, then again I don't ride any track on mine she's pleasure & commuting. Just to share some back ground I've been riding baggers  for quite awhile, I bought my FZ07 the Harlot in Aug of 2020 so I'm new in the naked community.

Thank you.

 

Edited by FZWes

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mossrider
7 minutes ago, FZWes said:

Okay, so raising the rear ride height it steepens the fork angle. Fork angle shouldn't be confused with rake that occurs at the neck or milled triple trees but also changes the angle of the forks. I couldn't imagine raising the ride height would make that much a difference in the fork angle. As for putting more weight on the front does that reduce any weight from the rear?

Your reasoning/explanation is something I never gave any thought to, then again I don't ride any track on mine she's pleasure & commuting. Just to share some back ground I've been riding baggers  for quite awhile, I bought my FZ07 the Harlot in Aug of 2020 so I'm new in the naked community.

Thank you.

 

None of these are huge changes. They are each incremental and collectively done right can lower lap times, which is what racing is about. Add to these light weight racing wheels, pulling the forks up 10-12mm in the triples, drilled rotors, SS brake lines, cutting weight, more hp, blah, blah and you get the idea. 

Weight is weight. Moving a few percent on to the front wheel means less on the rear certainly. 

A couple of degrees on the swingarm can mean the difference between driving hard off corner apex or having to wait a second till the bike is near vertical past apex before pulling it's hair so as not to spin the rear. We want the geometry and spring/damping rates to shift the weight from end to end for better braking, turning and accelerating. Miss the mark and the later drops you behind 2 bike lengths every corner minimum. 

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FZWes

Thank you.

 

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