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Project FZ-07R/T


Evill_Ed

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I have begun my Project FZ-07R/T (Road / Track) Project. I use my FZ-07 50/50 Street and Track Days. Last year was my second season at the track. My FZ-07 has been completely stock up to this point.  Despite all the magazine and internet reviews, I was always impressed with the bikes handling with stock suspension. After two private coaching sessions and the YCRS 2-day school at the end of last season did I start to feel the limitations of the stock suspension. 

Here is where we started

 

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Here is where we're going.

 

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Woodcraft clip-ons 1.5-in drop in down position. Careful cable rerouting to prevent kinking and binding. Also installed Spiegler Braided Brake Lines.

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Woodcraft Rearsets.

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Also committing to GP Shift pattern.

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chose Ohlin NIX22 Fork Cartridges 

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I went with a K-Tech Razor RR Rear Shock.

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And I am using AP Motoart's Dog Bone Linkage.234923602_March182019122.thumb.JPG.ae3b19f991bcf46b65d4534b8fa1e7dc.JPG

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Picture2.jpg.58b28b059da43a27d07a7fedceebcef6.jpg

I did not take pictures of the Ohlins NIX22 install, but it was straight forward. No modifications necessary, just remove the original caps, spacer, springs and damper rod. New cartridges drop right in. 

BTW - I wondered why there was a hole in the Woodcraft Clip On, now I know, it's to reach the compression and rebound adjusters. 

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I had removed the swing arm to do some cleaning and mods. This made removing the old dog bone linkage a lot easier. 

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And put the AP Motoart in it's place. 

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The center to center difference between the the original dog bone and the AP Link is 6mm, the AP Linkage is shorter.

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I like your recipe, should make for one hell of a cake. Motor staying stock(ish)? What tires have you decided on?  I think you'll love your new suspension on track, off track too if you can find a nice compromise that doesn't make it too unforgiving to be comfortable on the street. 

I think if you shorten that shift rod a tad you could get the angles to 90° and keep the shift arm and pedal angle parallel.

Looks good!  

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I ordered up some Swing Arm Spools from Graves, I had to have something from Grave on my Yamaha. I decided to not use the nutcerts and bolt them on with Nyloc nuts instead. 

Laid out painters tape to mark locations.

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Set combination square to 115mm from end of swing arm and used it to keep everything square.

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Nice tight holes.

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Nyloc nuts taped into box wrench, just reached the rear hole. 

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And installed. 

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7 minutes ago, mossrider said:

I like your recipe, should make for one hell of a cake. Motor staying stock(ish)? What tires have you decided on?  I think you'll love your new suspension on track, off track too if you can find a nice compromise that doesn't make it too unforgiving to be comfortable on the street. 

I think if you shorten that shift rod a tad you could get the angles to 90° and keep the shift arm and pedal angle parallel.

Looks good!  

Thank you Moss, some of your advice carried over on my part selections. I was planning on the Hord Airbox, Tune and either the Yosh Werks Finish pipe of Akrapovic TI, but now it looks like I'm gonna get whacked on taxes in 2 weeks. I will most likely send the ECU to Hord for a flash for stock exhaust and trimmed air snorkle. 

I'm running Dunlop Q3's right now and love them. 

I already relocated the shift arm down a notch to get a nice 90 degree angle. 

 

Ed

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Nice to see someone else tearing shet up for a change. Love how you figured stuff out and found simple and clean ways to get things done.  Now I can stick my nose into someone else's bidness for a change. 😎

Edited by mossrider
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4 hours ago, Evill_Ed said:

chose Ohlin NIX22 Fork Cartridges

Good for you, I passed up an opportunity to get these, already installed in the fork, used, finances said otherwise. When I got the cash together they were already promised to someone else. Following this thread👍

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4 hours ago, Evill_Ed said:

The center to center difference between the the original dog bone and the AP Link is 6mm, the AP Linkage is shorter.

 

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Am I correct in thinking that a shorter dog-bone = raised seat height?

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2 hours ago, NiteRyder said:

Am I correct in thinking that a shorter dog-bone = raised seat height?

As far as I know, yes.(as far as I know) I’ll let the more experienced with this dog-bone answer to confirm.

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10 hours ago, fzar said:

Good for you, I passed up an opportunity to get these, already installed in the fork, used, finances said otherwise. When I got the cash together they were already promised to someone else. Following this thread👍

Yup, I missed out on that same opportunity too.

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9 hours ago, NiteRyder said:

dogbone.JPG.c445196e32f5cc01896e1d21a7494188.JPG

 

Am I correct in thinking that a shorter dog-bone = raised seat height?

Yup, in this case shorter equals taller. The shorter dog bone  increases swing arm angle and raises the rear.

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Some more Swing Arm Modifications. So if you haven't seen the FZ-07R build that Zoran did on the TWF forum, you should. Zoran does some cool stuff. I thought his ideas were so cool that I borrowed a few.

First I attached the chain adjuster blocks to the swing arm. This keeps them in place when the rear wheel is removed. I used 4mm cap screws on these.

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Next I pinned the axle to the R/S adjuster plate. This holds the assembly together during wheel removal.

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Third I added a standard castle nut (SV 650) to the rear axle. This will help with frequent wheel removal and eliminate the possibility of a frozen or stripped stock lock nut. I drilled a hole for a latch pin (instead of cotter pin) and then milled a notch on top and bottom of L/S adjuster plate. Now I just need to purchase TWF's captive wheel super kits.

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Finished product.

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cornerslider

Nice work!!!  😎 Let us know what you think of the AP linkage 👍-

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""W.O.T. until you see god, then brake"

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I can't wait to try it out. 

"Do not let this bad example influence you, follow only what is good" 

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Just now, Evill_Ed said:

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Ha, same problem, different solution. An early version before adding Gilles adjusters w/spools. Also put springs over the adjuster bolt to hold them forward and in place during wheel swaps. 😃

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7 minutes ago, mossrider said:

Ha, same problem, different solution. An early version before adding Gilles adjusters w/spools. Also put springs over the adjuster bolt to hold them forward and in place during wheel swaps. 😃

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I like the spring idea. Now I'll copy from you too 😊

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Well Done @Evill_Ed you've been busy getting everything together. Did you use the woodcraft rearsets with jack stands to get the rear off the ground?

Are you setting up the suspension adjustments yourself or do you have a suspension person? When is your first outing going to be on the upgraded bike? and will it be track or road first?

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57 minutes ago, fzar said:

Well Done @Evill_Ed you've been busy getting everything together. Did you use the woodcraft rearsets with jack stands to get the rear off the ground?

Are you setting up the suspension adjustments yourself or do you have a suspension person? When is your first outing going to be on the upgraded bike? and will it be track or road first?

Yup, the Woodcraft rearsets work great with small jack stands to support the bike.  

I'm setting the suspension myself initially, the cartridges and shock came with recommended settings. I also subscribed to Dave Moss's site and have been studying his videos daily. This should get me close.

There is a suspension service at my local track, NJMP and I will definitely have them dial me in. 

First miles will be on the street, hope to get first track in at he end of April or early May. I want to get in as many days as possible. This year should be fun, my older son got his license and a SV650. We plan on doing track days  together. 

 

Ed

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Picture2.jpg.2778131421916312696dd01f30bef355.jpg

The K-Tech Razor RR is installed. I set to minimum length 319 mm which is what AP Motoarts recommends with their linkage.

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This combination really raises the rear end quite a bit. My original swing arm angle was 10.4 degrees, it is now 14 degrees. I am measuring with rods in the rear axle bolt and swing arm pivot bolts. I layed a 4-ft level across them and measured with a digital angle gauge.

 

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Ed

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On 3/29/2019 at 3:40 PM, Evill_Ed said:

I'm running Dunlop Q3's right now and love them.

OEM size's? or did you go 190 on the rear?

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I went with OEM sizes.  180 is more than enough tire on these bikes. Especially with good tires like Dunlops

 

Ed

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Got her some Jewelry. PSR Oil Cap and Drain Plug with Safety Clips and Lanyards. 

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Finally saw the light of day yesterday. 61 degrees in NJ

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First ride since modifications. Put 99.9 miles on her. New suspension and ergonomics took a little to get used to, but by the end of the day it all felt good. 

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Ed

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On 3/29/2019 at 3:40 PM, Evill_Ed said:

I'm running Dunlop Q3's right now and love them.

How do they do on the street? and do you ever run them in the wet? I'm looking at Q3+, mostly street with an odd track-day,or Q4+'s.

On 4/4/2019 at 8:21 PM, Evill_Ed said:

I went with OEM sizes.  180 is more than enough tire on these bikes. Especially with good tires like Dunlops

I hear Ya, I just heard of some people putting 190's on there to heighten the profile by squeezing wider tire lip into a narrower wheel bead. (I heard) is key, I've never seen it with my own eye's.

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