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208MT07

FTECU Quickshifter issues on 2018 MT07

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208MT07

So I got my FTECU quickshifter the other day, trimmed the shift rods to length and connected them to the sensor, and installed on the bike. Followed each step of instructions for wiring in the bike side harness, plugged sensor into harness, and the quickshifter will not work. I dont know what isn't right. Wires into ECU plug are as deep as I can possibly push them, ground wire is connected to a good 12v ground, and it doesnt matter what plug off the sensor is plugged into harness. Does anyone else here have the FT quickshifter and have pictures of how everything is on your bike, maybe I have the shift rod in upside down? There is literally zero info on that aspect of installing the shifter anywhere, just the harness install.  Also, ECU was sent back to 2WDW to activate the quickshifter module. Any help would be greatly appreciated so I dont have a 260 dollar paperweight of a shifter. 

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mossrider
5 hours ago, 208MT07 said:

So I got my FTECU quickshifter the other day, trimmed the shift rods to length and connected them to the sensor, and installed on the bike. Followed each step of instructions for wiring in the bike side harness, plugged sensor into harness, and the quickshifter will not work. I dont know what isn't right. Wires into ECU plug are as deep as I can possibly push them, ground wire is connected to a good 12v ground, and it doesnt matter what plug off the sensor is plugged into harness. Does anyone else here have the FT quickshifter and have pictures of how everything is on your bike, maybe I have the shift rod in upside down? There is literally zero info on that aspect of installing the shifter anywhere, just the harness install.  Also, ECU was sent back to 2WDW to activate the quickshifter module. Any help would be greatly appreciated so I dont have a 260 dollar paperweight of a shifter. 

Ahhh, welcome to the world of the mysterious wonder rod.  Great when they work, $260 paperweight when they don't. I have had the exact same unit in the past, here's what little I know after fooling with these things over the years.

First, obviously, recheck your work.

Next, make sure you have a 'push pot' if you're using a stock shift pattern and make sure you have the linkage orientated in stock configuration, not flipped into GP shift confiruration. If you're using a GP shift pattern then you need the 'pull pot'. Also make sure all your connections are as close to 90 degrees as possible, it's easy to get these set so they make shifting hard or even impossible. When one adds a quick shifter you have to use a shorter shift rod to allow for the added length of the sensor in the system. 

Studio_20190318_081520.jpg.a2a69ec10205e321dc7eec48dcc876f6.jpg

Then make sure the ecu wire is in the correct port on the harness. Here's a simplified pic of the position in a modified race harness. Easier to see its location, see the orange wire in the sixth hole second bank (your wire may differ in color and appearance)  Tripple check that it is inserted correctly. It is easy to be too shallow. I use a modified tiny punch, narrowed and blunted to install them deeply. 

 IMG_6720.thumb.PNG.2ed896388cee350764000c65d0499a22.PNG

Also check the sensor itself with a test meter to make sure it's good, they are electronic and prone to issues.

Good luck!

 

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208MT07
Posted (edited)
11 hours ago, mossrider said:

Ahhh, welcome to the world of the mysterious wonder rod.  Great when they work, $260 paperweight when they don't. I have had the exact same unit in the past, here's what little I know after fooling with these things over the years.

First, obviously, recheck your work.

Next, make sure you have a 'push pot' if you're using a stock shift pattern and make sure you have the linkage orientated in stock configuration, not flipped into GP shift confiruration. If you're using a GP shift pattern then you need the 'pull pot'. Also make sure all your connections are as close to 90 degrees as possible, it's easy to get these set so they make shifting hard or even impossible. When one adds a quick shifter you have to use a shorter shift rod to allow for the added length of the sensor in the system. 

Studio_20190318_081520.jpg.a2a69ec10205e321dc7eec48dcc876f6.jpg

Then make sure the ecu wire is in the correct port on the harness. Here's a simplified pic of the position in a modified race harness. Easier to see its location, see the orange wire in the sixth hole second bank (your wire may differ in color and appearance)  Tripple check that it is inserted correctly. It is easy to be too shallow. I use a modified tiny punch, narrowed and blunted to install them deeply. 

 IMG_6720.thumb.PNG.2ed896388cee350764000c65d0499a22.PNG

Also check the sensor itself with a test meter to make sure it's good, they are electronic and prone to issues.

Good luck!

 

So I have checked the wires into the plug multiple times now, as far as I can tell they are going all the way in, I even tried using a small piece of wire to help push them down into the plug, but no change. Per the bike side harness instructions, yellow is in port 6, red in 13, and orange in 22. Ground is still good. The kit came with a push/pull combo sensor so as far as I know it should work, and the shift linkage works correctly, both connections are 90 degrees, but I dont know how I would go about testing the sensor itself. 

Edited by 208MT07

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mossrider
Posted (edited)
Just now, 208MT07 said:

So I have checked the wires into the plug multiple times now, as far as I can tell they are going all the way in, I even tried using a small piece of wire to help push them down into the plug, but no change. Per the bike side harness instructions, yellow is in port 6, red in 13, and orange in 22. Ground is still good. The kit came with a push/pull combo sensor so as far as I know it should work, and the shift linkage works correctly, both connections are 90 degrees, but I dont know how I would go about testing the sensor itself. 

In push mode the sensor should show continuity only when it senses pressure on it. Pull mode, only in tension. My old Ftec was only a push type and had only the one wire into the ecu plug, what are your other two wires for (red and orange)? Does it have a pair of connectors coming off the sensor then, with only 1 being used at a time, either/or fashion?

 

Add,

I just checked their website and found an extensive help/faq section;

FTECU.COM

customer support platform

 

 

Edited by mossrider

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twf

We had nothing but problems with that unit. Hard to get wire in, when in still not working properly. Replaced with Bazaz unit and all is good. 

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mossrider
1 hour ago, twf said:

We had nothing but problems with that unit. Hard to get wire in, when in still not working properly. Replaced with Bazaz unit and all is good. 

I actually run a different unit now for the same reasons.

But, having said that, some guys have had great luck with it.

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208MT07
16 hours ago, mossrider said:

In push mode the sensor should show continuity only when it senses pressure on it. Pull mode, only in tension. My old Ftec was only a push type and had only the one wire into the ecu plug, what are your other two wires for (red and orange)? Does it have a pair of connectors coming off the sensor then, with only 1 being used at a time, either/or fashion?

 

Add,

I just checked their website and found an extensive help/faq section;

FTECU.COM

customer support platform

 

 

Yes, my sensor has two plugs coming off of it. Per the FAQ section on Flashtunes site I attempted to test the sensor, but could not seem to get any results whatsoever. I'm going to try seeing if a local parts store has smaller terminals for my meter so I can be sure I'm getting contact with the end of the plug, but I think this sensor may be DOA. I'm wanting to get a quickshifter setup on my bike for a test day at our local drag strip on the 31st, so I'm not sure whether to even bother trying to get a replacement sensor sent out or just bite the bullet on a Healtech QSE which is about the most I can afford right now and junk the FTECU one as now that it's open and the rods were cut I'd be surprised to be able to get a refund.  I went with the FTECU ons for ease of installation but at this rate I wouldve been able to install a more in depth setup like the Healtech lol.

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mossrider
Just now, 208MT07 said:

Yes, my sensor has two plugs coming off of it. Per the FAQ section on Flashtunes site I attempted to test the sensor, but could not seem to get any results whatsoever. I'm going to try seeing if a local parts store has smaller terminals for my meter so I can be sure I'm getting contact with the end of the plug, but I think this sensor may be DOA. I'm wanting to get a quickshifter setup on my bike for a test day at our local drag strip on the 31st, so I'm not sure whether to even bother trying to get a replacement sensor sent out or just bite the bullet on a Healtech QSE which is about the most I can afford right now and junk the FTECU one as now that it's open and the rods were cut I'd be surprised to be able to get a refund.  I went with the FTECU ons for ease of installation but at this rate I wouldve been able to install a more in depth setup like the Healtech lol.

If that sensor is toast they probably will swap it out but it takes time, I know. Just peel a small piece of scrap wire or take one of your wifes pins and stick a strand or two into the plug so you can test it with your meter. I know they work but like others and I have experienced, they are finicky. 

I have a different one now and still carry a spare pot, frickin things. 😉

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208MT07
On 3/19/2019 at 1:05 PM, mossrider said:

If that sensor is toast they probably will swap it out but it takes time, I know. Just peel a small piece of scrap wire or take one of your wifes pins and stick a strand or two into the plug so you can test it with your meter. I know they work but like others and I have experienced, they are finicky. 

I have a different one now and still carry a spare pot, frickin things. <img src=">

I tried putting some spare wire in the plug on the leads and still no results. Gonna get in touch with Flash Tune and see how to go about sending it in for testing and replacement if it is bad. Since that could take a while I just went ahead and ordered a Healtech QSE instead, and once I get a working sensor for the FT unit I'll just sell it for cheap to recoup a bit of money. 

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