FTECU Quickshifter issues on 2018 MT07

[208MT07]

So I got my FTECU quickshifter the other day, trimmed the shift rods to length and connected them to the sensor, and installed on the bike. Followed each step of instructions for wiring in the bike side harness, plugged sensor into harness, and the quickshifter will not work. I dont know what isn't right. Wires into ECU plug are as deep as I can possibly push them, ground wire is connected to a good 12v ground, and it doesnt matter what plug off the sensor is plugged into harness. Does anyone else here have the FT quickshifter and have pictures of how everything is on your bike, maybe I have the shift rod in upside down? There is literally zero info on that aspect of installing the shifter anywhere, just the harness install.  Also, ECU was sent back to 2WDW to activate the quickshifter module. Any help would be greatly appreciated so I dont have a 260 dollar paperweight of a shifter. 

[mossrider]

5 hours ago, 208MT07 said:

So I got my FTECU quickshifter the other day, trimmed the shift rods to length and connected them to the sensor, and installed on the bike. Followed each step of instructions for wiring in the bike side harness, plugged sensor into harness, and the quickshifter will not work. I dont know what isn't right. Wires into ECU plug are as deep as I can possibly push them, ground wire is connected to a good 12v ground, and it doesnt matter what plug off the sensor is plugged into harness. Does anyone else here have the FT quickshifter and have pictures of how everything is on your bike, maybe I have the shift rod in upside down? There is literally zero info on that aspect of installing the shifter anywhere, just the harness install.  Also, ECU was sent back to 2WDW to activate the quickshifter module. Any help would be greatly appreciated so I dont have a 260 dollar paperweight of a shifter. 

Ahhh, welcome to the world of the mysterious wonder rod.  Great when they work, $260 paperweight when they don't. I have had the exact same unit in the past, here's what little I know after fooling with these things over the years.

First, obviously, recheck your work.

Next, make sure you have a 'push pot' if you're using a stock shift pattern and make sure you have the linkage orientated in stock configuration, not flipped into GP shift confiruration. If you're using a GP shift pattern then you need the 'pull pot'. Also make sure all your connections are as close to 90 degrees as possible, it's easy to get these set so they make shifting hard or even impossible. When one adds a quick shifter you have to use a shorter shift rod to allow for the added length of the sensor in the system. 

Then make sure the ecu wire is in the correct port on the harness. Here's a simplified pic of the position in a modified race harness. Easier to see its location, see the orange wire in the sixth hole second bank (your wire may differ in color and appearance)  Tripple check that it is inserted correctly. It is easy to be too shallow. I use a modified tiny punch, narrowed and blunted to install them deeply. 

 

Also check the sensor itself with a test meter to make sure it's good, they are electronic and prone to issues.

Good luck!

 

[208MT07]

11 hours ago, mossrider said:

Ahhh, welcome to the world of the mysterious wonder rod.  Great when they work, $260 paperweight when they don't. I have had the exact same unit in the past, here's what little I know after fooling with these things over the years.

First, obviously, recheck your work.

Next, make sure you have a 'push pot' if you're using a stock shift pattern and make sure you have the linkage orientated in stock configuration, not flipped into GP shift confiruration. If you're using a GP shift pattern then you need the 'pull pot'. Also make sure all your connections are as close to 90 degrees as possible, it's easy to get these set so they make shifting hard or even impossible. When one adds a quick shifter you have to use a shorter shift rod to allow for the added length of the sensor in the system. 

Then make sure the ecu wire is in the correct port on the harness. Here's a simplified pic of the position in a modified race harness. Easier to see its location, see the orange wire in the sixth hole second bank (your wire may differ in color and appearance)  Tripple check that it is inserted correctly. It is easy to be too shallow. I use a modified tiny punch, narrowed and blunted to install them deeply. 

 

Also check the sensor itself with a test meter to make sure it's good, they are electronic and prone to issues.

Good luck!

 

So I have checked the wires into the plug multiple times now, as far as I can tell they are going all the way in, I even tried using a small piece of wire to help push them down into the plug, but no change. Per the bike side harness instructions, yellow is in port 6, red in 13, and orange in 22. Ground is still good. The kit came with a push/pull combo sensor so as far as I know it should work, and the shift linkage works correctly, both connections are 90 degrees, but I dont know how I would go about testing the sensor itself. 

Edited March 19, 2019 by 208MT07

[mossrider]

Just now, 208MT07 said:

So I have checked the wires into the plug multiple times now, as far as I can tell they are going all the way in, I even tried using a small piece of wire to help push them down into the plug, but no change. Per the bike side harness instructions, yellow is in port 6, red in 13, and orange in 22. Ground is still good. The kit came with a push/pull combo sensor so as far as I know it should work, and the shift linkage works correctly, both connections are 90 degrees, but I dont know how I would go about testing the sensor itself. 

In push mode the sensor should show continuity only when it senses pressure on it. Pull mode, only in tension. My old Ftec was only a push type and had only the one wire into the ecu plug, what are your other two wires for (red and orange)? Does it have a pair of connectors coming off the sensor then, with only 1 being used at a time, either/or fashion?

 

Add,

I just checked their website and found an extensive help/faq section;

FT ECU Inc. » support

FTECU.COM

---

customer support platform

 

 

Edited March 19, 2019 by mossrider

[twf]

We had nothing but problems with that unit. Hard to get wire in, when in still not working properly. Replaced with Bazaz unit and all is good. 

[mossrider]

1 hour ago, twf said:

We had nothing but problems with that unit. Hard to get wire in, when in still not working properly. Replaced with Bazaz unit and all is good. 

I actually run a different unit now for the same reasons.

But, having said that, some guys have had great luck with it.

[208MT07]

16 hours ago, mossrider said:

In push mode the sensor should show continuity only when it senses pressure on it. Pull mode, only in tension. My old Ftec was only a push type and had only the one wire into the ecu plug, what are your other two wires for (red and orange)? Does it have a pair of connectors coming off the sensor then, with only 1 being used at a time, either/or fashion?

 

Add,

I just checked their website and found an extensive help/faq section;

FT ECU Inc. » support

FTECU.COM

---

customer support platform

 

 

Yes, my sensor has two plugs coming off of it. Per the FAQ section on Flashtunes site I attempted to test the sensor, but could not seem to get any results whatsoever. I'm going to try seeing if a local parts store has smaller terminals for my meter so I can be sure I'm getting contact with the end of the plug, but I think this sensor may be DOA. I'm wanting to get a quickshifter setup on my bike for a test day at our local drag strip on the 31st, so I'm not sure whether to even bother trying to get a replacement sensor sent out or just bite the bullet on a Healtech QSE which is about the most I can afford right now and junk the FTECU one as now that it's open and the rods were cut I'd be surprised to be able to get a refund.  I went with the FTECU ons for ease of installation but at this rate I wouldve been able to install a more in depth setup like the Healtech lol.

[mossrider]

Just now, 208MT07 said:

Yes, my sensor has two plugs coming off of it. Per the FAQ section on Flashtunes site I attempted to test the sensor, but could not seem to get any results whatsoever. I'm going to try seeing if a local parts store has smaller terminals for my meter so I can be sure I'm getting contact with the end of the plug, but I think this sensor may be DOA. I'm wanting to get a quickshifter setup on my bike for a test day at our local drag strip on the 31st, so I'm not sure whether to even bother trying to get a replacement sensor sent out or just bite the bullet on a Healtech QSE which is about the most I can afford right now and junk the FTECU one as now that it's open and the rods were cut I'd be surprised to be able to get a refund.  I went with the FTECU ons for ease of installation but at this rate I wouldve been able to install a more in depth setup like the Healtech lol.

If that sensor is toast they probably will swap it out but it takes time, I know. Just peel a small piece of scrap wire or take one of your wifes pins and stick a strand or two into the plug so you can test it with your meter. I know they work but like others and I have experienced, they are finicky. 

I have a different one now and still carry a spare pot, frickin things.

[208MT07]

On 3/19/2019 at 1:05 PM, mossrider said:

If that sensor is toast they probably will swap it out but it takes time, I know. Just peel a small piece of scrap wire or take one of your wifes pins and stick a strand or two into the plug so you can test it with your meter. I know they work but like others and I have experienced, they are finicky. 

I have a different one now and still carry a spare pot, frickin things. ">

I tried putting some spare wire in the plug on the leads and still no results. Gonna get in touch with Flash Tune and see how to go about sending it in for testing and replacement if it is bad. Since that could take a while I just went ahead and ordered a Healtech QSE instead, and once I get a working sensor for the FT unit I'll just sell it for cheap to recoup a bit of money. 

[1tondriver]

Putting the paddles to this thread and seeing if it can come back to life. 
@208MT07 did you ever get this issue figured out? I have installed the same shifter and have triple checked everything and no quick shifting for me.  I contacted 2WDW and am waiting to hear back again. Could be a bad push sensor but idk.... Very irritated with the whole damn thing. 

[phanomenal07]

On 10/25/2019 at 7:00 PM, 1tondriver said:

Putting the paddles to this thread and seeing if it can come back to life. 
@208MT07 did you ever get this issue figured out? I have installed the same shifter and have triple checked everything and no quick shifting for me.  I contacted 2WDW and am waiting to hear back again. Could be a bad push sensor but idk.... Very irritated with the whole damn thing. 

Any result from this?

[1tondriver]

3 minutes ago, phanomenal07 said:

Any result from this?

I haven’t been able to test yet due to old man winter but this check showed the orange wire not being seated all the way. 

PLEASE NOTE: THIS TEST IS FOR THE 4-PIN BIKE SIDE HARNESS (THE LABEL ON YOUR HARNESS STARTS WITH THE PREFIX "4P"). IF YOU HAVE A 6-PIN HARNESS, USE THIS TEST.

The bike-side harness requires careful installation to insure a complete and error-free flash process. About 90% of the issues that cause error codes we see can be traced to a hardware connection problem. This test is more definitive than the software test interface that a lot of users have suddenly started trying to use after seeing it in a couple of posts; without the proper steps and looking at the correct data, all it does is confuse the issue.

This test is easy to do, and requires just a small jumper wire or paper clip, and a multi-tester. 

Take the bike-side harness connector, and remove the weather-seal cap (or disconnect it from your USB Data Link cable). Looking at the face of the connector (opposite the side where the wires are inserted), determine where each color wire (there are four: Red, Green, Yellow, and Black) pin is located. With your bike's ignition key turned on, use the multi-tester to connect the Red and Black wire pins by inserting the leads into the respective pin locations on the face of the connector. You should see a solid 12 volts; anything less means you have a connection issue with either the Red or Black wires (or both). Check them carefully to ensure that the pins are seated correctly (all the way into the ECU connector, and that the crimped portions are facing up towards the connector's locking latch).

If that test checks out, then connect the Green and Black leads with the multi-tester; you should see between 7-12 volts. Anything less means you have a connection problem with the Green or Black wire (if you saw 12V in the previous test, then the Black wire checks out because it passed that test already). 

If that test checks out, then connect the Yellow and Black leads. If you hear the fuel pump priming, then you have a problem with the Yellow wire (Black checks out because if you've gotten this far, you've already tested it twice).
 

Hopefully be able to test soon if it’s warmer and my body isn’t all busted up (added broken pinky finger to list last week. If it’s not working after verifying everything I am going to send ECU back to 2WDW to verify on their test bike. They have been helpful in figuring this out. Will update soon.

 

[1tondriver]

On 3/6/2020 at 4:32 PM, phanomenal07 said:

Any result from this?

Thought it was sorted out after sending my ECU back to 2WDW again but still having issues. It was working as it should at the end of last season until I sent ECU back to 2WDW to add Active Tune. Got it back and nothing. Had to send the ECU out again and got it back this week and it only works shifting the first 2 gears . Not sure what’s going to happen next but has to be ECU related. I think 2WDW is getting tired of the whole situation as well as they are not responding too quickly. I just want the damn thing to work. If I were to do it again I wouldn’t go ftecu... So I wait for a response and hopefully a resolution. 

[phanomenal07]

9 hours ago, 1tondriver said:

Thought it was sorted out after sending my ECU back to 2WDW again but still having issues. It was working as it should at the end of last season until I sent ECU back to 2WDW to add Active Tune. Got it back and nothing. Had to send the ECU out again and got it back this week and it only works shifting the first 2 gears ">. Not sure what’s going to happen next but has to be ECU related. I think 2WDW is getting tired of the whole situation as well as they are not responding too quickly. I just want the damn thing to work. If I were to do it again I wouldn’t go ftecu... So I wait for a response and hopefully a resolution. 

Well that sux. 

[Spatt]

On 3/18/2019 at 8:53 PM, 208MT07 said:

So I have checked the wires into the plug multiple times now, as far as I can tell they are going all the way in, I even tried using a small piece of wire to help push them down into the plug, but no change. Per the bike side harness instructions, yellow is in port 6, red in 13, and orange in 22. Ground is still good. The kit came with a push/pull combo sensor so as far as I know it should work, and the shift linkage works correctly, both connections are 90 degrees, but I dont know how I would go about testing the sensor itself. 

It’s just a momentary switch.  Pretty simple to test with a meter. 

[1tondriver]

On 4/6/2020 at 2:22 AM, Spatt said:

It’s just a momentary switch.  Pretty simple to test with a meter. 

So here we go again. After sending the switch to Ftecu as requested by 2WDW and finally getting a new switch today. Installed it again and took for a test ride and the same damn thing! I had a strong feeling there was nothing wrong with switch because I tested it and was getting continuity. I am beyond frustrated and totally dissatisfied.

Now mind you, the quick shifter was working just fine until I sent the ECU to 2WDW to add the Active Tune kit I purchased from them. Shifter was never touched. When I get ECU back the quick shifter doesn’t work at all. 2WDW says to send it back to them after I do all the Ftecu troubleshooting. 2WDW tells me that the “firmware was completely scrambled”. 2WDW says they got it sorted out and send me ECU. Install it and I can only shift to 2nd and 3rd with proper quick shifts.

So here I am in the same position with a $300 paperweight and another $33 in shipping and no working quick shifter. I think I have been more than patient but it is running out. Bike has been down in for a week or more at a time on multiple occasions while waiting for a fix. I emailed both 2WDW and Ftecu just now and am awaiting a response. The only variable that changed was the updated flash by 2WDW. Am I crazy to believe that is the issue?

I have spent a lot of cash with 2WDW so I hope they get this worked out satisfactorily. Sorry for the rant and will update if and when I hear back from them.
 

Update: 2WDW wants me to send them the ECU AGAIN, so I ponied up and sent it back today. With all the shipping costs I have endured I have the most expensive quick shifter that doesn’t work

The email I got today 

Greg,

“I have a local customer that has an FZ-07 with an Active Tune and quickshifter installed, that works perfectly, and is more than willing to let us borrow their bike for testing. We can swap the ECUs, and if the quickshifter works perfectly, then all we can recommend is continuing to troubleshoot the issue with FTECU's support staff. Nobody else is having this specific issue with the quickshifter on an FZ-07 with an Active Tune enabled, and with a confirmed "good" sensor from FTECU I'm at a loss with any other direction to go other than that without physically having your bike in our shop.-2WDW”

Again, it worked perfectly before I sent my ECU in for the active tune update. Nobody else is having the issue, but I am!!! Bike gets to sit at least another week while on lockdown. I am not a happy camper to say the least...

 

 

[HulkHogan]

Really sorry to hear that this has turned into such a mess for you.  I hope they fix it for you.  I also had issues with my 2WDW flash and was also told that the flash works great for everyone else and must be something with my bike.

Worst part is you can’t even look at your ECU with the software after you paid so much for the license.  They said something on here about it being their Secret KFC Recipe...more like a bucket of undercooked chicken...

 

[1tondriver]

So after a long vacation for my ECU in Washington, it will be on its way back from 2WDW this week. Got this email yesterday:

“We were able to replicate and resolve the issue on our test bike. I truly can't begin to explain why what we did worked, because it shouldn't have. The FTECU software has a huge bug in it right now, because the oldest firmware available for the FTECU Quickshifter module is the only one that works for some reason. I have to call FTECU on Monday before I can go into much more detail, because I doubt they're even aware of the issue.“

Now I still don’t have the warm fuzzies about this and I won’t believe it works until I get the ECU in my bike. 
After this whole ordeal I am a little gun shy about everything Ftecu related. I was considering getting a dyno tune from a local guy with a good resume, but I don’t know if it is really needed and I am a bit cash strapped for a little while. He said my AFR’s should be good with my Active Tune.  Another member on the board is not an Ftecu fan at all and I respect his opinions. Granted, this is not a race bike but I want it to run and last a good while. Opinions? TIA

[mossrider]

Just now, 1tondriver said:

So after a long vacation for my ECU in Washington, it will be on its way back from 2WDW this week. Got this email yesterday:

“We were able to replicate and resolve the issue on our test bike. I truly can't begin to explain why what we did worked, because it shouldn't have. The FTECU software has a huge bug in it right now, because the oldest firmware available for the FTECU Quickshifter module is the only one that works for some reason. I have to call FTECU on Monday before I can go into much more detail, because I doubt they're even aware of the issue.“

Now I still don’t have the warm fuzzies about this and I won’t believe it works until I get the ECU in my bike. 
After this whole ordeal I am a little gun shy about everything Ftecu related. I was considering getting a dyno tune from a local guy with a good resume, but I don’t know if it is really needed and I am a bit cash strapped for a little while. He said my AFR’s should be good with my Active Tune.  Another member on the board is not an Ftecu fan at all and I respect his opinions. Granted, this is not a race bike but I want it to run and last a good while. Opinions? TIA

It'll all be good. You're on the same get f@#ked scale as I am. My luck has turned around so I'm thinking you've taken the last "1 Acme Anvil" outta the blue for a while. 

[cornerslider]

5 hours ago, 1tondriver said:

So after a long vacation for my ECU in Washington, it will be on its way back from 2WDW this week. Got this email yesterday:

“We were able to replicate and resolve the issue on our test bike. I truly can't begin to explain why what we did worked, because it shouldn't have. The FTECU software has a huge bug in it right now, because the oldest firmware available for the FTECU Quickshifter module is the only one that works for some reason. I have to call FTECU on Monday before I can go into much more detail, because I doubt they're even aware of the issue.“

Now I still don’t have the warm fuzzies about this and I won’t believe it works until I get the ECU in my bike. 
After this whole ordeal I am a little gun shy about everything Ftecu related. I was considering getting a dyno tune from a local guy with a good resume, but I don’t know if it is really needed and I am a bit cash strapped for a little while. He said my AFR’s should be good with my Active Tune.  Another member on the board is not an Ftecu fan at all and I respect his opinions. Granted, this is not a race bike but I want it to run and last a good while. Opinions? TIA

While I honestly don't know anything about FTECU, or the quickshifter software, I'm a big fan of 2WDW.... They seem to do a really good job with a "generic" flash. I'm completely happy with mine. It sucks that you are having quickshifer issues. Once this gets figured out, you can go on loving/enjoying your FZ-07 again. My best advise is if you're NOT racing, a dynotune probably isn't really worth the cost... It's really easy to get sucked into the "what if I did this" mindset (been there). At the end of the day, we just enjoy our bikes. A track friend of mine stopped over this morning. He has multiple track & street bikes. He said something I whole-heartedly agree with- "If I had to own only one bike, it would undoubtedly be my FZ-07".... I couldn't agree more!!! This will get figured out, and you will find your smile again -

[1tondriver]

1 hour ago, cornerslider said:

While I honestly don't know anything about FTECU, or the quickshifter software, I'm a big fan of 2WDW.... They seem to do a really good job with a "generic" flash. I'm completely happy with mine. It sucks that you are having quickshifer issues. Once this gets figured out, you can go on loving/enjoying your FZ-07 again. My best advise is if you're NOT racing, a dynotune probably isn't really worth the cost... It's really easy to get sucked into the "what if I did this" mindset (been there). At the end of the day, we just enjoy our bikes. A track friend of mine stopped over this morning. He has multiple track & street bikes. He said something I whole-heartedly agree with- "If I had to own only one bike, it would undoubtedly be my FZ-07".... I couldn't agree more!!! This will get figured out, and you will find your smile again ">-

Thanks for the comments. At this point I am just hoping and praying to be able to ride and enjoy it. It had sat more than it’s been used during the end of last season and this spring. 
The dyno thing was more for my piece of mind than anything with all the controversy I have been trying to digest. Fingers crossed, prayers said, let’s ride. 

[fzar]

On 3/18/2019 at 8:27 AM, mossrider said:

I'm sorry, I know its off topic, but the bottle with the overflow pipes? Is this a requirement for racing @mossrider 

[mossrider]

2 minutes ago, fzar said:

I'm sorry, I know its off topic, but the bottle with the overflow pipes? Is this a requirement for racing @mossrider 

At that particular track it was. You weren't allowed to have any open vent lines (battery & radiator overflow in this case iirc)

[cornerslider]

1 hour ago, 1tondriver said:

Thanks for the comments. At this point I am just hoping and praying to be able to ride and enjoy it. It had sat more than it’s been used during the end of last season and this spring. 
The dyno thing was more for my piece of mind than anything with all the controversy I have been trying to digest. Fingers crossed, prayers said, let’s ride. 

Chase that smile ‘TIL the end of the road ....

[1tondriver]

A quick update, finally got ECU back from 2WDW after the USPS took over a week to get to me one way. As it turns out I was not crazy and didn’t do anything wrong as far as the quick shifter working. From 2WDW:

”Greg,

We were able to replicate and resolve the issue on our test bike. I truly can't begin to explain why what we did worked, because it shouldn't have. The FTECU software has a huge bug in it right now, because the oldest firmware available for the FTECU Quickshifter module is the only one that works for some reason. I have to call FTECU on Monday before I can go into much more detail, because I doubt they're even aware of the issue.”

So I was correct all along but I was able to finally get it back together and take for a ride 2 days ago before it snowed again . Finally another smile on my face as it worked again! Supposed to warm up at the end of next week so more seat time coming.