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CriticalCore

Sticky Clutch?

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CriticalCore

There are times where I come to a full stop in first gear with the clutch fully pulled, but the bike still crawls/creep forward even with the clutch fully pulled, I usually can't shift into Neutral at this point.

 

Is this normal or does the clutch need to be looked at, the bike is still in warranty. I'm not sure what causes this so it's hard to reproduce the issue consistently.

Edited by CriticalCore

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rick

I'd guess you have too much freeplay in the cable and the plates are not opening far enough - even with the lever full back to the grip. The inconsistency could be cause you are right on the edge of adjustment at which point engine temp may make it misbehave or not.

 

The owner's manual describes the proper adjustment. 

 

Did you change levers at some point. 

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NRWhiteKnight

How many miles are on your bike? Could be the clutch cable is stretched. Had this happen on one of my 600's and before I popped for a clutch I decided to try changing the cable first. It fixed the issue.

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minkster

I think this is pretty normal.  Motorcycles pull a little when in gear even when the clutch lever is fully in.  Changing the oil can help if this bothers you.

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DewMan
2 hours ago, minkster said:

I think this is pretty normal.  Motorcycles pull a little when in gear even when the clutch lever is fully in.  Changing the oil can help if this bothers you.

It shouldn't if it's properly adjusted.

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mcbrien

This should be an easy fix under warranty.  When I start my bike when cold bike slams into

gear with clutch engaged when shifting to 1st. I put my bike in 1st rock bike back and fourth

with clutch pulled in to break clutch loose then start bike. pita. There's an issue with these clutches.

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rick
1 hour ago, mcbrien said:

This should be an easy fix under warranty.  When I start my bike when cold bike slams into

gear with clutch engaged when shifting to 1st. I put my bike in 1st rock bike back and fourth

with clutch pulled in to break clutch loose then start bike. pita. There's an issue with these clutches.

What you are describing is normal for a wet clutch. 

 

What critical care is describing is not the initial clunk into gear from neutral. He's being pulled forward with the bike in gear and clutch pulled. The clutch pack is are not opening far enough and the plates are dragging. 

 

Like Dewman said, it's not normal if the clutch is adjusted properly. Whether the cable has stretched or the barrel adjuster at the lever came loose or whatever, the simplest solution is there's too much slack in the cable. 

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r1limited

More revs
 

What Oil are you using?

How cold is it now in your neck of the woods?

Both of these will have an impact on your clutch, beyond the obvious of adjustment.

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rick
34 minutes ago, r1limited said:

More revs
 

What Oil are you using?

How cold is it now in your neck of the woods?

Both of these will have an impact on your clutch, beyond the obvious of adjustment.

I'm thinking if the clutch is dragging, more regs will just make it harder to keep the bike still - and glaze the clutch plates

 

Wouldn't hurt to be using a 10w40 oil if what's in there is 20w50, especially as it cuts colder. But unless it's straight 40 or 50 vis oil, I doubt it'll make a difference. My Aprilia runs 20w50. It's harder on the starter motor when it's in the 40s out, but the clutch never drags, hot or cold. 

 

A couple turns on the barrel adjuster is likely all it'll need. 

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r1limited
36 minutes ago, rick said:

I'm thinking if the clutch is dragging, more regs will just make it harder to keep the bike still - and glaze the clutch plates

I forgot the smiley face to indicate JOKE :)

 

Thus the what oil ?  There is no mention as to a few things, yes obvious clutch adjustment but questions remain unanswered

Miles on bike aka clutch?
What brand and viscosity oil is run?

Temps have changed so obvious would be did this happen during warm weather too?  **May lead to more a mechanical issue if answered yes**

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rick

Yep,

Only mechanical issue I could think of to make it drag would be a warped plate or maybe a damaged basket such that the fingers are sticking and not allowing plates to open. The latter would usually result in the clutch slipping sometimes as well. 

 

There's always these 😉

 

 

Screen Shot 2018-10-21 at 11.43.34 AM.png

  • Haha 2

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Beemer
22 hours ago, rick said:

Yep,

Only mechanical issue I could think of to make it drag would be a warped plate or maybe a damaged basket such that the fingers are sticking and not allowing plates to open. The latter would usually result in the clutch slipping sometimes as well. 

 

There's always these 😉

 

 

Screen Shot 2018-10-21 at 11.43.34 AM.png

I don't know about motorcycles but those floating chocks work great with a boat. You just toss one on either end of the boat and the boat stays between the chocks. Everything may drift but the boat stays between the chocks. 😏

  • Haha 1

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Beemer

Just like with the plugs when you're not sure of what to do,  just put in a new clutch and clutch cable to be sure. 😉 I'm totally joking, just adjust your cable like others mentioned. Mark it so you'll know where it was when you started and make a turn at a time and check.

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CriticalCore

Its 2015 with 18600 KM's, using 10w40 oil. This was happening even in 20 C weather so I don't think the cold is the primary issue.

 

The levers are stock, the disengagement point is about 1/4 pull, but it will sometime still idle forward with the clutch lever fully pulled beyond the disengagement point. It does not happen when I start the bike, only after I've been on the bike from what i've noticed. 

 

I'll have the dealer take a look at it next week to see if its the cable possibly.

Edited by CriticalCore

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rick

If yer measuring that 1/4" out at the end of the lever, that should be just fine. But if yer looking at the gap between the lever and the bracket, that'll be way too much. 

 

A frayed cable might hang up such that the clutch pack will not close completely. That would cause the clutch to slip while accelerating. 

 

When you say "fully pulled beyond disengagement" (actually,  engaging the clutch is what happens when you pull the lever - you might be disengaging the motor from the gearbox, but the clutch is activated to do this) do you pull the lever all the way back to the bar?  

 

 

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mcbrien
14 hours ago, rick said:

What you are describing is normal for a wet clutch. 

 

What critical care is describing is not the initial clunk into gear from neutral. He's being pulled forward with the bike in gear and clutch pulled. The clutch pack is are not opening far enough and the plates are dragging. 

 

Like Dewman said, it's not normal if the clutch is adjusted properly. Whether the cable has stretched or the barrel adjuster at the lever came loose or whatever, the simplest solution is there's too much slack in the cable. 

What I'm describing isn't normal. I'm 60 yrs old , been riding since I was 15 and this is the first clutch that sticks like

this I have ridden. After pulling out of the drive way rolling up to the stop sign at the end of the street when I pull in the clutch it doesn't disengage for a few seconds. You can feel it gradually let go.  Usually by the 2nd block its ok.

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rick
9 hours ago, mcbrien said:

What I'm describing isn't normal. I'm 60 yrs old , been riding since I was 15 and this is the first clutch that sticks like

this I have ridden. After pulling out of the drive way rolling up to the stop sign at the end of the street when I pull in the clutch it doesn't disengage for a few seconds. You can feel it gradually let go.  Usually by the 2nd block its ok.

Yeah, that's not normal either. And the clutch is being engaged, not disengaged.btw.

 

w/o seeing it, I'd guess your clutch cable also has too much slack and the clutch pack is not getting pushed open enough and is dragging until the oil gets warmed up. Free play should be 4 or 5 mm out at the end of the lever. 

 

You could try changing brands of oil. If yer not running synthetic, switch to it. 

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r1limited
6 hours ago, rick said:

You could try changing brands of oil. If yer not running synthetic, switch to it. 

What brand is being used?  doe sit have friction modifiers?  if yes dump it flush the engine and get a motorcyce oil with no friction modifiers
A snippet from a Husky site.  If you know this sorry @mcbrien

Quote

friction modifiers that are added to automotive oils are what cause serious damages when used in motorcycles. The friction modifiers clog the clutch plates in a motorcycle's transmission causing serious clutch slippage and disabling the motorcycle.  Motorcycles have to be as compact as possible and to do this, the engine and transmission have to be combined together into one casing. This means that everything is lubricated by only one type of oil including the valves, piston, transmission, and clutch.

 

Edited by r1limited

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rick

those friction modifiers will usually cause a wet clutch to slip - not drag or in purple M's  case, not allow the clutch pack to open up after the 1st bang into gear.

 

My Arilia will sometimes feel like the clutch pack hasn't opened up - at the end of the driveway, but only when it's really cold out. A lot of that is from running an aftermarket clutch slave that has a bigger diameter (shorter throw) to decrease lever force needed. That clutch lever is a workout in traffic. 

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r1limited
7 hours ago, rick said:

After pulling out of the drive way rolling up to the stop sign at the end of the street when I pull in the clutch it doesn't disengage for a few seconds.

@rickjust going by what was stated ^^ I agree, but ya never know.

 

If it was my bike

  1. Clutch cable removed and inspected and or replaced
  2. Clutch cover off and Inspect Plates
  3. Replace Clutch if needed
  4. Install per OEM and test
Edited by r1limited

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mcbrien

I'm using yamalube semi synthetic since new. 3000 mile oil changes . 8000 miles on bike. Original  owner.

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rick

Oil is not likely the issue - unless something way out there is used. 

 

For the clutch to hang up like this it means the pack of plates is not opening far enough and surface tension created by the thin film of oil on the plates  is creating enough friction for you to feel this when it lets go. 

 

If the clutch isn't slipping (revs go up w/o a corresponding increase in speed) then the simplest answer is free play at the lever - as in too much. Even putting a big fat grip on the bar can result in decreased  lever throw and not pulling the clutch pack open far enough.

 

The lever at the clutch cover should point straight in. There's a dot on the outer edge of the lever and an arrow on the cover - they should match up. If for some reason the lever was installed (or moved) so that it points a bit forward, you can lose some travel. Have a look

 

 

 

 

 

 

lever.jpg

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rick

Beyond those things, you might have to open it up and look for something that's limiting the throw of the clutch mechanism. 

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