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rfmueller

Brisk Racing Spark Plugs

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rfmueller

It's that time already to change spark plugs.  The NGK OEMs last a whopping 8kmi which means I get to pull the bike apart every year and put in a $26 set of plugs.  :(    

I used Brisk multi-sparks on my previous bike (Vulcan 500; had a parallel twin Ninja engine factory stock, modified cams).  Anyway those plugs were rated for 12kmi (20k km).  I ran them 20,000 MILES.  They ran really well.  Although Brisk said there would be a HP bump and Torque bump, I couldn't notice any.  Couple things I did notice:  The bike NEVER missed beat.  No misfires.  AND, the plugs were in fairly decent condition having been ridden 8kmi miles further than recommended.  They never did lose any performance, but they were ready to be changed.  

Now there's the new ride, a year old now; the FZ07.  Brisk offers a similar plug that runs one notch cooler than OEM recommendation:  It's also a multi-spark design.  OR, I could run another Brisk design called LGS.  It's rated for about 19kmi (30k km).  I'd venture to go 24kmi with that one.  It has the same temperature rating as the OEM.  Why the hesitation?  It's not a multi-spark.  Anybody out there have any experience with a Brisk LGS in any of the bikes?  Right now I'm tempted to run the LGS since it's the same temp rating and the recommended service life is longer since that would take me to every 3rd year, and save about 1/2 the amount as NGK.  They run $18 each plus shipping.  

 

https://www.briskusa.com/brisk_premium_lgs_spark_plug_performance_and_fuel_economy

 

https://www.briskusa.com/brisk_multi_spark_plug_multi_spark_spark_plugs

 

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r1limited

Let me brisk on my responce here on plugs

OEM

 

All that marketing bullshit about milage etc is bullshit.  Like someone telling you the right oil adds horsepower.  OK so you get 1/1024th more on a tank of gas and thi sis claimed as milage

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Beemer

There is already a huge thread for DIY spark plugs,

 

"DIY: FZ-07 Spark Plugs

By hobbs, May 18, 2015 in Yamaha FZ-07 Tech Tips"

 

but since you mention it my OEM plugs went well over 13k miles before they started showing any signs of being worn. I can't remark on the plugs you mentioned but they sound nice in comparison. I'm over 30k miles right now so that means since my last plug change I've went over 17k miles with the OEM's and they work fine. Just throwing that out there.

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fzar
14 hours ago, rfmueller said:

The NGK OEMs last a whopping 8kmi which means I get to pull the bike apart every year and put in a $26 set of plugs.  :(    

https://www.ngk.com/product.aspx?zpid=45776 This is what I buy. OEM

Edited by fzar

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DewMan
3 hours ago, fzar said:

Status of the OEM plugs in your link is "NGK 4313 is on national back order with no ETA". That doesn't sound good when NGK can't even say when they'll have some.

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rick

Sorry for not going back in time, but have we decided that the LMAR8A-9S is not OK to use. I've no idea what the S signifies, but the specifications/descriptions and price all seem exactly the same as the basic -9 plug. That one is in stock for the same price as the -9 version.

 

BTW, it's Yamaha that's specifying the maintenance schedule, not NGK. NGK recommends a 30k miles interval! Check it out under "specs" https://www.ngk.com/product.aspx?zpid=41476 

 

As for any spark plug creating an increase in HP in any well running motor, well, let me tell ya, the last time I changed spark plugs, I got taller, I stopped needing glasses and all my hair grew back.  😉

 

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rfmueller

DewMan:  The "S" signifies a slightly different gasket.  It's okay to run.  I looked high and low to find the meaning of the "S" designation and did find it, but can't find the link now.  It's for a HONDA. lol.   My guess is that the non-S model is discontinued.

Rick:  Thanks a million for that info about running 30kmi!  I have the new plugs in hand now, and was getting ready to start pulling apart The Red Baron for the change out.  You saved me time and $.  Much appreciated!
 

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rick

They both say triple seals to prevent leakage! So dunno about this all. 

There' an "S" specification and then ther's a "-S". The latter species that different gasket and the plain S just describes the electrode. 

 

I think Chaparrel lists both plugs for the 07 in their reference. NGK doesn't even list our bike

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Beemer
20 hours ago, rick said:

Sorry for not going back in time, but have we decided that the LMAR8A-9S is not OK to use. I've no idea what the S signifies, but the specifications/descriptions and price all seem exactly the same as the basic -9 plug. That one is in stock for the same price as the -9 version.

 

BTW, it's Yamaha that's specifying the maintenance schedule, not NGK. NGK recommends a 30k miles interval! Check it out under "specs" https://www.ngk.com/product.aspx?zpid=41476 

 

As for any spark plug creating an increase in HP in any well running motor, well, let me tell ya, the last time I changed spark plugs, I got taller, I stopped needing glasses and all my hair grew back.  😉

 

Thanks for that VERY important info, Rick! Big mystery solved, (joke) that explains why my spark plugs are still going strong well after the manuals prescribed plug change. I have the feeling though that until the mainstream media or someone with 'perceived authority' reports that it's OK to use the 'plug manufacturer's' prescribed specifications people will only believe what their bike bible tells them is so.

 

 

holy grail god.gif 8k! No less, no more!

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Cruizin

As someone who used to build race engines, I can tell you that Spark plugs alone do not add hp, its a marketing ploy. 

 

I used champion spark plugs because they at the time offered a wide array of different heat ranges for their plugs, and this was very important because heat range dictates how fast heat can be exchanged from the tip of the spark plug into the Cylinder head water jacket and into the cooling system. 

 

If the heat range is too hot, you can lose power and have detonation. 

 

If the heat range is too cold, the Spark plug will not be able to self clean carbon deposits and also produce loss of power. 

 

As a rule of thumb, you can expect to require one heat range colder than the factory-supplied plugs for every 75-100 horsepower you’ve added with your modifications.  None of you will be adding 100 hp to your FZ-07's. 

 

We didn't give one single shet about what material the electrodes were made out of or any of that BS.  We did, however, care about what heat range we needed for each engine configuration. That was it. 

 

On a stock emissions engine, use OEM plugs guys. Don't waste your money on crazy spark plugs that will not add power or extend life. OEM plugs are set up to last a long time and handle any little hp gains your stickers will add. 

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Cruizin

Here is a video explaining heat range.  Again, adding 5-50 hp to a bike doesn't even require anything more than OEM spark plugs. All a spark plug does is fire into the hole, and transfer heat to the cylinder. No power gained no matter what the marketing says. 

 

OEM plugs are the way to go to ensure proper heat range and transfer of heat, proper detonation. 

 

 

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r1limited

I am telling you NGK has colluded with CDI manufacture to oversell the sparky plugs.  Its a conspiracy of all conspiracies.  NO ONE NEEDS A PLUG ANYWAY, this is the 20th century for gad sake, just get the bike a twitter account, it will run fine after bringing it to Nels for a ECO flash

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mossrider

I get oem NGK's off the web, $36 delivered for 6 pak. Change them once/year. Everything else is snake oil.

Edited by mossrider
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rick
On 10/17/2018 at 10:53 AM, Beemer said:

Thanks for that VERY important info, Rick! Big mystery solved, (joke) that explains why my spark plugs are still going strong well after the manuals prescribed plug change. I have the feeling though that until the mainstream media or someone with 'perceived authority' reports that it's OK to use the 'plug manufacturer's' prescribed specifications people will only believe what their bike bible tells them is so.

 

 

holy grail god.gif 8k! No less, no more!

Mind you, I'm not recommending anyone let these plugs go 30k miles. NGK is saying thy can last that long, they also are not advising it. 

 

It's not like Yamaha sells spark plugs. They had a reason - whatever that was - to recommend replacing at 8k miles, instead of, say, when you inspect valves at 22k, was it?. Let 'em go longer if ya want, but I'd not go nuts. And near 4x their recommendation qualifies - as close.  

 

 

Edited by rick
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AlbatrossCafe

$26 for NGKs? I think I bought 4 of them for $26. they are like $6 or 7 each tops.

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markstertt

I think I bought 4 ngk iridiums for around $26 US off a German site...I found the stock NGKs, after 7 or 8k miles, had a fairly well rounded off center (ground) electrode. Before anyone says their plugs looked perfect at 8k miles you should take a look at the edges of electrodes with a magnifier, electrons like nice sharp edges and require higher voltages to spark as the edges round over. New or different design plugs won't add power but will 'restore' the power you may lose from old warn plugs, considering nothing else is changed.

 

 

 

 

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markstertt

Haha, I just found Ricks NGK post in tech tips with info on plugs including the iridium...looks like he ended this conversation...throw in some NGK iridiums and forget about them for a long while...thanks Rick.

 

Not that there is anything wrong with experimenting and I will admit that I never even heard of Brisk plugs...only crawl out from under my rock so often.

Edited by markstertt

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