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Ninjasmoker

Low gearing/sprocket sizes: more torque for the inner city commute

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stickshift
7 hours ago, Pursuvant said:

Chemobrain is a real thing, I attributed the extra tooth with speedo change, but you helped me see it takes a change in wheel with tire diameter to affect speedo that reads off wheel(s) rotation.

My non-ABS bike gets it's speed from the gearbox, so sprocket size changes do affect speedo accuracy.

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shinyribs
12 hours ago, stickshift said:

My non-ABS bike gets it's speed from the gearbox, so sprocket size changes do affect speedo accuracy.

Same here. 

 

Are the ABS equipped bikes getting speed signals from the wheel sensors for the speedo? I assumed they left all that alone and just tacked on the ABS system independentaly. 

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DewMan

I'm still looking for confirmation but I'm pretty sure the ABS sensors aren't doing double duty as speed sensors. The sensors are sensing the rpm of each wheel so they can be compared to each other to tell when a wheel has lost traction. 

I believe the ABS model uses the same sensor as the ones who do not have ABS.

The easy way to tell is find one of us that has made final gearing change that didn't require speed healer.

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DewMan
 
Just shut up and ride.

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klx678

If it's around town figure out if you need to actually gear down or gear up.  It is all about the rpm you will be running.   If you need to gain 500 rpm at 45 mph and a downshift won't cut it, go up two or three teeth on the back.  It might also be accomplished by gearing taller and running one gear lower.   As said, the 700 has great power range.  I am also one who is considering gearing taller to maybe pick up a few mpg.

I actually made an rpm/speed/gear spreadsheet to compare what happens with changes based on exact gearing and tire diameter.   I was doing it with two calculators on one sheet so I could compare gearing when I was looking at SM wheels for my KLX650, did I need to change the rear sprocket size or not, to stay close to the same gearing, etc.  I wanted to have a roll in set of wheels without any chain adjustment preferable.

I can email a copy of the Excel sheet if interested.  You would need to learn the tooth count of the primary drive and all six gears to do the job.   I got the ones for the KLXs in the parts lists for the gear boxes, they were listed.

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Pursuvant
4 hours ago, shinyribs said:

Same here. 

 

Are the ABS equipped bikes getting speed signals from the wheel sensors for the speedo?

I can't say where I read it, but somebody had identified the 3 fuses that control abs. And he noted he could pull two of them to disable the abs, but he left the third fuse in because without it he lost his speedo display. 

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ElGonzales

There is no speed sensor at the gearbox of ABS bikes. You can't find it in reality, not in the wiring diagram and service manual tells you to check the rear wheel sensor in case of problems with the speedo.

The ABS system needs three fuses:
-ABS solenoid fuse
-ABS motor fuse
-ABS control unit fuse

Edit: I strongly believe that your speedo is gone if you remove the ABS control unit fuse. The wheel sensors are connected directly to it.

Edited by ElGonzales
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bartman5impson

Speaking of sprockets, how do we know which side of the front sprocket faces out? I got a JT rubber dampened sprocket and just put the side with words facing outwards. There were no instructions included and I haven't found any online. I've heard of people who installed it reversed and it ended up wearing horribly due to being misaligned.

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DewMan
34 minutes ago, bartman5impson said:

Speaking of sprockets, how do we know which side of the front sprocket faces out? I got a JT rubber dampened sprocket and just put the side with words facing outwards. There were no instructions included and I haven't found any online. I've heard of people who installed it reversed and it ended up wearing horribly due to being misaligned.

Yes, I've asked this question here before when I did a 520 conversion.  The writing facing out is the correct orientation. 

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DewMan
 
Just shut up and ride.

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ElGonzales

This is the JT sprocket, the orientation is correct I guess? I was also worried when I installed it and threw a coin :D ...IMG_20200502_161310.thumb.jpg.ff57e702c0913fe9d684a6e8e7091734.jpg

Edited by ElGonzales
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Sirbacon

Okay so I just created this account and idk how to do things yet but my dumb a just bought like a 15/50 with minimal research and now I'm like what have I done so I'm going to stick with the 15 but what should I change it to in the back for medium torque and speed 

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longrider1951

You just bought a wheelie monster.  I hope you know how to quick shift, you're going to need that skill. Your top speed will be under 90 and your MPG are in the toilet.  What were you trying to accomplish?

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mossrider

Get a 42, 43 or 44 for the back and you'll be ok and your chain should't have to be replaced or cut.  A 15/43 and a 16/46 are the same basic ratio. Either will give you a bump in your jump. 

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Joaoduarte

What people think of a 16/45? Being the rear sproclet the oem from yamaha yzf R6?

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blackout
1 hour ago, Joaoduarte said:

What people think of a 16/45? Being the rear sproclet the oem from yamaha yzf R6?

I think it would work well if you are looking for a little more grunt and acceleration.  Definitely not overkill.  But I have only run stock gearing so far.

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Craig Mapstone
Upstate New York

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Joaoduarte
9 minutes ago, blackout said:

I think it would work well if you are looking for a little more grunt and acceleration.  Definitely not overkill.  But I have only run stock gearing so far.

Iam thinking of it because what i feel about the bike is the jump from 4th to 5th is too much 6th gear is just a cruising low mpg gear, i think the bike gearing from stock is too large for the power of the bike. Just an idea and a thought. Would like more people to talk about it

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blackout
6 minutes ago, Joaoduarte said:

Iam thinking of it because what i feel about the bike is the jump from 4th to 5th is too much 6th gear is just a cruising low mpg gear, i think the bike gearing from stock is too large for the power of the bike. Just an idea and a thought. Would like more people to talk about it

A lot is personal preference.   You lose 4.9 mph in 4th gear, so that's not a whole lot, so give it a try.  


Craig Mapstone
Upstate New York

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AP996
1 hour ago, Joaoduarte said:

What people think of a 16/45? Being the rear sproclet the oem from yamaha yzf R6?

I run 15/43, it’s a cheap mod and definitely livens things up.

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Joaoduarte
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, AP996 said:

I run 15/43, it’s a cheap mod and definitely livens things up.

Hmm but how does it feel? (Can you also show part? 

1 hour ago, blackout said:

 

@AP996 you are running something similar to 16/46 right?

Edited by Joaoduarte

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seven
17 hours ago, Joaoduarte said:

What people think of a 16/45? Being the rear sproclet the oem from yamaha yzf R6?

Not sure if you saw this thread...it might also be of use to you:

 

 

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AP996
21 hours ago, Joaoduarte said:

Hmm but how does it feel? (Can you also show part? 

@AP996 you are running something similar to 16/46 right?

Feels great to me but then I don’t do enough miles to worry about fuel economy etc. Yes 15/43 would be pretty close to 16/46.

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Joaoduarte

Tried 16/45, really enjoy it now 5th gear from 4th makes a lot of sense, feels like stock 3rd to 4th. All gears pulls stronger, overall the bike feels more torquey on all gears. I think the mt07 should have been like this from stock. (16/45 + R6 throttle)

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seven

I am trying to decide if I want to do 16/44 or 16/45. So far there is positive feedback about both combos. I figure at this point it is basically a flip of a coin to decide. LOL
 

@Joaoduarte What sprockets and chain did you go with? What length of chain did you need?

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FZ not MT
Posted (edited)
21 hours ago, seven said:

I am trying to decide if I want to do 16/44 or 16/45. So far there is positive feedback about both combos.

I think that the big question you need to ask yourself is what kind of riding you are going to do. If you are going to do any long distance I would go with the 16/44. If you are going to stay local and go the hooligan/hell raiser route, definitely go with the 16/45.

My normal ride day is from 100-300 miles with some days well over that if I'm on a trip. I have the 16/44, and I'm very sure I would not want the 16/45 for the riding I do. Even with one tooth (44), the difference in the rpm range you are going to be riding in is pretty noticeable. 6th gear is no longer the lazy overdrive. If the difference between 43 and 44 is that noticeable, I'm assuming so will going from 44 to 45, and definitely going from 43 to 45. At highway speeds for long miles, running at a higher rpm range isn't a lot of fun.

Having said that I'm sure that the wheelies and 2nd gear holeshots that the 45 will give should be a poop load of fun!

Either way, enjoy and ride safe!

 

Edited by FZ not MT
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Joaoduarte
11 hours ago, FZ not MT said:

I think that the big question you need to ask yourself is what kind of riding you are going to do. If you are going to do any long distance I would go with the 16/44. If you are going to stay local and go the hooligan/hell raiser route, definitely go with the 16/45.

My normal ride day is from 100-300 miles with some days well over that if I'm on a trip. I have the 16/44, and I'm very sure I would not want the 16/45 for the riding I do. Even with one tooth (44), the difference in the rpm range you are going to be riding in is pretty noticeable. 6th gear is no longer the lazy overdrive. If the difference between 43 and 44 is that noticeable, I'm assuming so will going from 44 to 45, and definitely going from 43 to 45. At highway speeds for long miles, running at a higher rpm range isn't a lot of fun.

Having said that I'm sure that the wheelies and 2nd gear holeshots that the 45 will give should be a poop load of fun!

Either way, enjoy and ride safe!

 

I went 16/45 and thats exactly what i feel about this combo, i do really enjoy it for sure lots of fun, still 5 and 6th gear for cruising is fine, problem is that 16/45 gets out of you that hooliganish part, i pair the 16/45 with a r6 throttle tube, and damm it does feel good. For instance i was debating for a long time if a mt09 was the bike to go, and after all the mods i did and after riding a mt09, for me now it does not justify, i dont use all that the mt07 can give so i dont bother about those 849cc, 11x hp and so on. Mt07 is "the machine"

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FZ not MT
18 hours ago, Joaoduarte said:

For instance i was debating for a long time if a mt09 was the bike to go, and after all the mods i did and after riding a mt09, for me now it does not justify, i dont use all that the mt07 can give so i dont bother about those 849cc, 11x hp and so on. Mt07 is "the machine"

Funny you mention the MT-09, as I've been checking out the new 2021 version of the 09, and it's pretty kickass. It has a new motor with more horsepower, better suspension, and only 11 pounds heavier than the MT-07. It's suppose to run great.

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