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Adjustable Shifter

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Beemer

I don't recall seeing this adjustable shifter on this site so I'll throw it up. It would've helped me with a previous pair of riding boots that were hard to get the toe underneath to shift. Maybe they will help someone else out there with that same problem.

https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Adjustable-Yamaha-XSR700-2014-2016/dp/B075V11868/ref=pd_rhf_dp_p_img_13?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=PVYPV9JGCM42F4DSH2YC

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r1limited

I cannot remember who built them back in the day, but same concept.  We simply used shifters from differing makes or and models swaps.  What ever makes you confortable.  I have a size 11, adjusting the lever to be free and easy to use was easy on the FZ.  Just depends on your feel.

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Randucci

@beemer,  funny you posted that adj. shift arm, I just got one from Amazon. I wanted a shift arm a little longer because when I upshifted, the pedal didn't always come down to the neutral position so I could upshift again. I left the length of the adjusting linkage rod the same as it was with the stock shift arm. When I went to go for a test ride today, I couldn't down shift from neutral to first because the arm hit the bolt end of the kickstand! As you can see from the attached pictures, the new adj. shift arm doesn't have the same bend outwards as the stock shift arm (everything else fit fine) does. I adjusted the  linkage rod shorter so it would have enough downward movement to make the gear shift. I haven't tried it yet though to see if it works O.K., hopefully Monday or Tuesday. 

 As you can see in the pictures, it really isn't much longer than the stock one. I might end up making a peg that allows it to be extended farther out. 

 

 It is a little hard to see in the picture, but the black shift arm is touching the kickstand bolt.

 

DSC_0689.jpg

 

 

DSC_0693.jpg

Edited by Randucci

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shinyribs

Man, that's bummer. Great looking shifter, especially for the price. 

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Beemer

I wonder if a good machine shop could heat up the arm enough and bend it just enough to match the bend in the OEM shift arm to make it work.??? Any one with experience in machine shop here? Any Tuttle's? You're right, it's not much but that few millimeters difference would've made the difference between bending my foot all the ay back and struggling to get it underneath the peg and not struggling.

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r1limited

It looks like the bend is slight and in the wrong direction?  Made in China?

Edited by r1limited

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Randucci
10 hours ago, r1limited said:

It looks like the bend is slight and in the wrong direction?  Made in China?

I would guess it was made in China, the quality is fine, it just needed to have more of a bend outwards. I did shorten the linkage rod so that it didn't hit the kickstand nut anymore (so it makes the down shift now), it ended up being about .14" shorter. This raised the end of the shifter knob about .7". This actually helped the problem I was having in the shift lever not going back down after a up-shift (because my normal foot position kept it up a little) far enough to make the next up-shift. I went for a short ride and it seemed to be better, I will need to do more testing to make sure I like it. I probably could have just shortened the stock shift lever to raise it, but I did also want a longer shift lever because of my size 12 shoe. I may just make a completely new longer lever or modify either the stock one (I purchased an extra) or the custom black aluminum one, I needed a Fall project anyways!

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shinyribs
15 hours ago, Beemer said:

I wonder if a good machine shop could heat up the arm enough and bend it just enough to match the bend in the OEM shift arm to make it work.??? Any one with experience in machine shop here? Any Tuttle's? You're right, it's not much but that few millimeters difference would've made the difference between bending my foot all the ay back and struggling to get it underneath the peg and not struggling.

Would have to know the exact allot first. 5052 bends cold very well without cracking. Others alloys won't bend hot or cold. Aluminum is a very fickle metal. 

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gregjet

How much furthur do you want it out? A spacer to go between the bar and the shifter knob should be easy enough to fabricate. Just a piece of Al with two holes in it and longer bolts.

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Randucci

I don’t want the knob farther out, I want the bar longer.

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Old Man

I'd put it in a vice and bend it myself. 

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Randucci
22 hours ago, Old Man said:

I'd put it in a vice and bend it myself. 

I think there are two subjects going on, one, is that the custom adjustable replacement shift arm (shown in the link in the first post) hits the kick stand bolt if you don't shorten the adjusting rod from the stock adjustment length. It is 3/8" thick aluminum and it wouldn't bend very easily and even if you got it bend, it would shorten it up to where it wouldn't adjust as long. So it would only work (IF you could bend it) if you wanted to change the looks.

 

The second issue is I want a longer length shift lever (not want the rubber shift knob out farther from the bike). I purchased a replacement stock shift lever to possibly cut it and add some length. One of my other options is to make a new shift knob so that it extends the shift lever length. Last option would be to make my own shift lever out of aluminum having the right clearance from the kickstand bolt and a longer shift lever. I purchased a left hand rod bearing to use if I make my own extended lever. 

 

 Not sure what option I will go with yet.

 

 Here is a picture of what I mean by a longer shift lever (assuming the pivot bushing was in the same location):

 

DSC_0690.jpg

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Old Man

I get what you're saying. Get a pair of rearsets. You don't have to move up or down. You can move back the peg to increase your distance to the shift knob. They make tons of rearsets for this bike already. 

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sorkyah
28 minutes ago, Old Man said:

I get what you're saying. Get a pair of rearsets. You don't have to move up or down. You can move back the peg to increase your distance to the shift knob. They make tons of rearsets for this bike already. 

i think he's saying hes got the same problem i do, long feet....

he wants the distance between his footpeg and the toe lever longer by about half an inch if im judging the picture correctly

 

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norcal616

one question, are you trying to keep the "arch" of your feet on the pegs to shift? 

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Randucci
17 minutes ago, norcal616 said:

one question, are you trying to keep the "arch" of your feet on the pegs to shift? 

..

Yes

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norcal616
12 minutes ago, Randucci said:

..

Yes

that may be your problem... have you tried to "shift" with your foot more positioned on the "balls of your feet" 

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sorkyah
On 8/26/2018 at 6:31 PM, Randucci said:

@beemer,  funny you posted that adj. shift arm, I just got one from Amazon. I wanted a shift arm a little longer because when I upshifted, the pedal didn't always come down to the neutral position so I could upshift again. I left the length of the adjusting linkage rod the same as it was with the stock shift arm. When I went to go for a test ride today, I couldn't down shift from neutral to first because the arm hit the bolt end of the kickstand! As you can see from the attached pictures, the new adj. shift arm doesn't have the same bend outwards as the stock shift arm (everything else fit fine) does. I adjusted the  linkage rod shorter so it would have enough downward movement to make the gear shift. I haven't tried it yet though to see if it works O.K., hopefully Monday or Tuesday. 

 As you can see in the pictures, it really isn't much longer than the stock one. I might end up making a peg that allows it to be extended farther out. 

 

 It is a little hard to see in the picture, but the black shift arm is touching the kickstand bolt.

 

DSC_0689.jpg

 

 

DSC_0693.jpg

What if you flipped the lever the opposite way on the pivot? Looks as though the offset might work that way if you swap the toepiece and adjuster to the other side

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Bigturbomax

Comparing these photos and the photos in the listing, it looks like the arm has been assembled backwards.  I could be wrong of course. 

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Randucci
2 hours ago, Bigturbomax said:

Comparing these photos and the photos in the listing, it looks like the arm has been assembled backwards.  I could be wrong of course. 

 Maybe it is my pictures, but it is installed just like the Yamaha stock one (there was no assembly needed, only installation). It is also installed in the same orientation as the pictures on Amazon. I attached a couple more pictures of it installed that I hope helps. 

 As far as flipping it around, that wouldn't work for a few reasons:

1) Since the lever arm is not welded in the center of the pivot bushing, but rather to one side (like the stock one), if you flipped around, it would now be on the inward side and would hit on the plastic swing arm above it and the foot peg bracket below.

2) The lever arm would be so close to the engine that you would have to mount the adjusting rod and rod end bearing on the outside of the lever arm and it would be at an angle outward. 

3) The "S" bend of the lever arm would now be inward and probably hit the engine.

4) If you flipped it around, you would have to mount the adjustable toe knob on the opposite side. There is a step cut on the one side to retain the nut and allen bolt that is not on the other side, so that wouldn't work either.

 

 To those who suggested to "Bend" the aluminum custom arm, it is 3/8" thick, if you able to bend it, you would have to make two bends, one out and one back (to make the "S") to make it parallel to the first part of the arm, this would shorten it a lot and that is not what I wanted, I wanted it longer. 

 

 Today I purchased some raw material to make my own custom longer lever, I will post the progress in another separate thread.

DSC_0690.jpg

DSC_0691.jpg

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stickshift

Sw-Motech in Germany makes an adjustable gear lever - it's not cheap but it does look to be good quality.

 

https://sw-motech.com/en/products/ergonomics/gear+lever/4052572036211.htm

 

fsc_06_642_10000_1_xl_809.jpg.f926138b8b0683342023cef367a74e27.jpg

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Randucci
35 minutes ago, stickshift said:

Sw-Motech in Germany makes an adjustable gear lever - it's not cheap but it does look to be good quality.

 

https://sw-motech.com/en/products/ergonomics/gear+lever/4052572036211.htm

 

fsc_06_642_10000_1_xl_809.jpg.f926138b8b0683342023cef367a74e27.jpg

That looks like it will work. It has enough outward “S” bend to clear the kick stand bolt. It also looks like a straighter arm (no downward bend/angle like the Amazon one). The toe knob looks to be hinged so if it hits something, it will pivot back. If it weren’t $140, I might buy one! Revzilla carries their products, but I didn’t see it listed.

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shinyribs

This is strange to me. I have size 12 feet and find the stock shifter too long. About 1/2-3/4 inch shorter would be perfect. 

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Old Man
On 9/3/2018 at 8:56 PM, norcal616 said:

one question, are you trying to keep the "arch" of your feet on the pegs to shift? 

For me that would be yes.  Just on the very front of the heel. I wear Sidi Black Rain boots. 

 

I have to say, this bike is very niche oriented. Shorter riders, shorter seat length, absolutely cramped reach to the bars - made for shorter riders.  For me the gearing is too short as well, but that's why it's a torque beast and wheelie monster. I find myself using 3rd gear when making normal street turns simply because second is too snatchy down low. Better power, smoother, way more roll-on control coming out in 3rd. I think I'll hold on to this for a few months and trade it for a Ninja z650. Even the ergos on the SV-650 are the most relaxed but I had a DL-650 and wasn't really a fan of the V-twin. Had a Ninja 1000 and a 2006 Ninja 650. I like the Kaws  better. No friggin' plastic tank either.  

 

Sorry, rant over. 

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Old Man
On 9/3/2018 at 9:27 PM, norcal616 said:

that may be your problem... have you tried to "shift" with your foot more positioned on the "balls of your feet" 

If I wanted an R-6 I'd buy one. My 2003 FZ-1 was a WAY better bike than this. I'd take an FZ6R over this. 

Edited by Old Man
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