Tempted to trade DRZ 400SM for a FZ07

[Hannibal802]

In May 2017 I bought a DRZ 400SM with the intention of later buying knobbies and riding trails and road. For the summer I road on the SM wheels just exploring different dirt roads and asphalt roads around me (Vermont). This spring I found some knobbies and put them on the bike, but I never really rode any trails and there really aren't any around me. I've since put the SM wheels back on, but the seat and long distance riding on the DRZ is a literal pain, it hurts to sit on after 40 minutes even with an aftermarket Seat Concepts seat.

 

I've since toyed with the idea of trading it towards a 2017 FZ 07 at a local dealer. I've had it listed for a few weeks on Craigslist, but my area is not a hotspot for SM bikes, and I've seen similarly priced and mileage DRZ's sit for months on there. The dealer offered me $4k on my trade in, which I was hoping to get $5k, but I do have aftermarket parts I can take off and probably get atleast $600 (seat, handgaurds, skidplate, fender eliminator, rear rack, knobby wheels and tires) for them if I found buyers. The FZ 07 is a 2017, brand new non-ABS and they currently have a  $750 off trying to move it. I owe $3k on the DRZ, but my monthly payment would go down $20 for whatever that is worth, I was making two payments anyway on my DRZ a month and I wouldn't stop if I completed the trade.

 

Has anybody come from the DRZ world to the FZ 07 world, do you have regrets? I see the FZ 07 as more street oriented which is what I want. I can still hit dirt roads I assume, just not to the same extent as the DRZ which is fine.

[Beemer]

I don't come from a DRZ but I know enough to be sure of this, many people think the FZ's seat is uncomfortable and they redo them also but since the seats are wider on an FZ than a DRZ the comfort level should be elevated for that reason but the next question is about the material that's used. The newer 18"s seats are designed differently than earlier models and are more narrow/beveled at the tank area to relieve pressure on the inside of the legs (+) and allow for better footing (+). I'm looking at the back of the 18's seat and it looks just as thin as all the other year models (-). I can't say if the foam padding is just as soft as the earlier models or if it's more firm. Most people seem to think the foam is too soft and I agree with them, you could feel the base plate underneath if you pushed in hard enough. Maybe just give an '18 a good push at the back of the seat with a couple fingers to see what you feel.

 

Dirt roads? I've ridden on gravel/dirt rods with mine and if you get snappy on the throttle the rear end can get a little squirrely but other than that it handled alright just taking it easy. Of course, depending on the gravel and rocks you encounter the front end may jump left and right a bit. If you're talking about dirt roads with big bumps, rocks or pot holes you will want to upgrade the suspension as best you can. Could get tricky with this bike since it doesn't have a lot of travel to begin with. Most people don't even like this suspension for the pavement, let alone a bumpy dirt road. I'm assuming you're used to bumpy. I just happen to come from a dirt bike background so bumps and rear tires sliding around don't bother me like it does others that have never ridden off road. My guess is you'll end up tweaking at least the rear suspension with the settings provided. I recommend a test ride, especially on a dirt road. GL!

[Hannibal802]

2 hours ago, Beemer said:

I don't come from a DRZ but I know enough to be sure of this, many people think the FZ's seat is uncomfortable and they redo them also but since the seats are wider on an FZ than a DRZ the comfort level should be elevated for that reason but the next question is about the material that's used. The newer 18"s seats are designed differently than earlier models and are more narrow/beveled at the tank area to relieve pressure on the inside of the legs (+) and allow for better footing (+). I'm looking at the back of the 18's seat and it looks just as thin as all the other year models (-). I can't say if the foam padding is just as soft as the earlier models or if it's more firm. Most people seem to think the foam is too soft and I agree with them, you could feel the base plate underneath if you pushed in hard enough. Maybe just give an '18 a good push at the back of the seat with a couple fingers to see what you feel.

 

Dirt roads? I've ridden on gravel/dirt rods with mine and if you get snappy on the throttle the rear end can get a little squirrely but other than that it handled alright just taking it easy. Of course, depending on the gravel and rocks you encounter the front end may jump left and right a bit. If you're talking about dirt roads with big bumps, rocks or pot holes you will want to upgrade the suspension as best you can. Could get tricky with this bike since it doesn't have a lot of travel to begin with. Most people don't even like this suspension for the pavement, let alone a bumpy dirt road. I'm assuming you're used to bumpy. I just happen to come from a dirt bike background so bumps and rear tires sliding around don't bother me like it does others that have never ridden off road. My guess is you'll end up tweaking at least the rear suspension with the settings provided. I recommend a test ride, especially on a dirt road. GL!

Thanks for the info. I'm not looking to hit gravel roads with big pot holes and bumps where I'd need a lot of suspension travel, just the odd gravel road here and there that are maintained.

[Spitfire]

Ah yes, motorcycle seats. The uncomfortable aspect that just leaves you numb after awhile.

 

Had a DRZ400sm. Loved it. You will love the 7 even more. The 7 is basically a faster, heavier SM. Double the hp, fuel injected and with a 6 spd. But the SM is 80lbs lighter and more off road suspension? There's always a compromise.

I run my 7 on Shinko 705 dual sport tires. See my intro for pics. Good tires with traction off road and decent/ fine on pave. Recommend them. I run mostly pave and some dirt roads in the SW.

Is the seat great? No, 1-1.5 hrs is ok but tougher numb after that. Take breaks or fuel stops. Most I've done is 500-600 miles on both in a day but with lots of breaks. The back half of the SM ride was excruciating, the 7, bearable.

Can't say if different seats are better, mine is stock. 

I tried a wide comfy bicycle seat on the back of the SM, which also allowed me to stretch my legs, but it wasn't great for long rides.

 

[Beemer]

There should be a list of different seat makers on this sight, many people have upgraded but to be honest, I can't think of one that makes a seat that everyone is happy with. Hard to say who's is best. Everyone would argue that theirs is great and therefore, in their opinion, the best. I have seen, felt and sat on the Corbins and they're a solid seat that I'm positive will last a long time. According to the talk about them their looks aren't for everyone.

 

I was one of the few it seems that went to a local upholstery shop and had my seat redone. They used a semi liquid polymer to replace the flimsy foam in the areas where contact is actually made with the seat and it has doubled my ride time. A "do it yourselfer" could do this easily and save some $$. As a matter of fact, I'm about to jump on a staple gun and redo my cover myself with either some light silver Emu skin or a tan leather croc skin. (fake of course, I love petting crocs and emu's) 

Here's the gel in case you're interested: 

https://www.amazon.com/Liquid-Polymer-Gel-Sheet-Thick/dp/B011XW0LES/ref=sr_1_2_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1534771896&sr=8-2&keywords=liquid+polymer+gel+for+seat

 

 

 

 

My bike is white with silver frame, thought this would look good and keep the seat cooler.

Not as good a cooling affect, being that it's darker, but croc skin rocks. They all come in

 

different colors. They're on amazon also.

[gregjet]

Again something about DRZ400SM's and 07's. So many have had the two bikes ( me included). Normally I would say Seat Concepts and I loved them on the 400 and the 07 but you seem not to fit them.

Might be worth having a look at your actual positioning on the bike first. The problem could lay there. Check you back isn't curled instead of leant forwards straight. That loads the lower area differently. Part of your load should be on your hands.

 Do you use your footpegs to stand on ( or even take the load) when cornering or over uneven surfaces. That helps keep the lower regions fresher AND gives you more control. Try actually taking some of your body weight on your outside peg when cornering. Load before the corner and don't unload until you are accellerating away and becoming upright. At the least it will take longer to numb your rear.