twf Posted September 11, 2018 Share Posted September 11, 2018 11 hours ago, firstyammerha said: can you change oil through that valve as posted earlier? I've not seen a picture of the internal set up so just curious. No. That valve is for nitrogen only. Oil goes in from other side which means shock has to come apart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firstyammerha Posted September 15, 2018 Share Posted September 15, 2018 could the gas pressure be lowered to alter the ride versus swapping springs? I'm not aware of a minimum gas pressure value so maybe someone can provide that. It seems like 160 psi is a common static pressure for oem Japanese shocks from what I've seen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elmo Posted September 15, 2018 Share Posted September 15, 2018 FYI- While not the same probably similar – Penske 8300 series shock manual comments below. Gas Pressure- This can vary depending on application. This could range from 50 psi to 200 psi depending on what type of vehicle or type of racing. Again this will be specified on your spec sheet and or dyno sheet. Gas pressure is like spring rate. This is more used for a fine tuning adjustment. 50psi is similar to 5-10lbs of spring rate. Adding more gas pressure is a common adjustment for qualifying, when you need to get your tires to max operating temp very quickly. If you do this, remember to reduce PSI before racing or shortened tire life may result. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maz20 Posted October 31, 2018 Share Posted October 31, 2018 On 7/31/2018 at 2:07 PM, pattonme said: valving (compression circuit) is the problem, not the spring. Your shop should have worried about that. You can try a 115N/mm spring (stock is 120) but you haven't specified what your bike and rider sag values are at both ends. Yup, spot on. Seems that way to me too, as if FZ-07 rear shock linkage is built way too "aggressively progressively" -- i.e., the linkage progressively raises the spring rate *way* too much as you use up more of your rear wheel travel. So, you won't actually have the full 5.1" of rear wheel travel for "plushly" absorbing those bumps and what not. You'll have quite a bit less than that, and your options are generally 1) Increase preload to stay out of the overly-progressive higher spring rate (ie stiffer spring) swingarm positions 2) Switch to a lighter spring, to lessen the progressive spring rate increase overall (further increasing preload as necessary of course). 3) Get an aftermarket shock preferably with adjustable compression damping so you can increase it however necessary. Having too low compression damping can make rebound damping level hard to perfectly determine since different types of bumps will place you in very different swingarm positions & "progressively-linkage-increased" effective spring rates. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maz20 Posted October 31, 2018 Share Posted October 31, 2018 Hmm I can't seem to edit or delete my previous post for some reason, but, looking at the rear shock linkage in the service manual, there doesn't seem to be anything that complicated about it. I haven't done any calculations, but now I'm wondering how such a bare-bones simple linkage should even have any sort of "progressive" effect (based on swingarm angle/position)... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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