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godoy.rafa

Shock spring too soft, ideas?

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godoy.rafa

So I can't affort an aftermarket rear shock. 

The bike is a 2016 ABS model, 43.000 KM.

My OEM spring is too soft even after adjusting it.

I took it to a shop and they did the shock, changed the oil. It got better, but it is still too soft.

They tried a different spring but it was too stiff, hurting my back when going through bumps and holes.

So, can you recommend me a spring?

I have 65 kilos.

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pattonme

valving (compression circuit) is the problem, not the spring. Your shop should have worried about that. You can try a 115N/mm spring (stock is 120) but you haven't specified what your bike and rider sag values are at both ends.

 

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godoy.rafa
On 7/31/2018 at 6:07 PM, pattonme said:

valving (compression circuit) is the problem, not the spring. Your shop should have worried about that. You can try a 115N/mm spring (stock is 120) but you haven't specified what your bike and rider sag values are at both ends.

 

Thank you. I will tell them about that. I have never measured sag values,

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godoy.rafa

This is what the mechanic did, added this valve but I have no idea why. Maybe to change the oil?

002E18BC-50A3-4F4E-897A-4D0E95A53B19.jpeg

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shinyribs

Yeah, the stock shocks don't come with any port to service them. You fill the oil and the nitrogen through there.The fact that your mechanic is willing to add a port to a shock like that, and has the tolls and know-ho to do it, tells me you found a very rare gem of a mechanic. Most shops would have never touched that.

 

Since your shock is now easily serviceable, you could try a heavier oil to increase damping.

 

Also, as far as the spring goes, you still have preload adjustment left to use. That silver ring with the steps on it- you still have 4 more steps to stifffen the spring. There is a wrench to do this in the factory tool kit under the seat. 

Edited by shinyribs
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tavisb

Check your sag numbers and post them up here before you go changing springs or preload or anything. 

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pattonme

and cut a hole in the battery-box so the valve doesn't get broken off crashing into what's above it. You'll probably have to shim the battery too. If your guy does another one, make sure he puts the valve 45-60 deg to the current location.

Edited by pattonme
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godoy.rafa
22 minutes ago, pattonme said:

and cut a hole in the battery-box so the valve doesn't get broken off crashing into what's above it. You'll probably have to shim the battery too. If your guy does another one, make sure he puts the valve 45-60 deg to the current location.

Thought it was the airbox! Thanks.

The guy told me he'll turn the shock so that it doesn't hit the box.

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pattonme

Oopsie yeah the airbox... in which case you'll get anothe 0.2HP with the 8mm hole. :)

Edited by pattonme
  • Haha 2

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r1limited

Not so bright a mechanis really if he added the port pointing up and blocked by the air box or maybe a brilliant guy because he now knows you must bring it to him to adjust, CHA CHING

 

A proper position would be to the side for easy access.

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godoy.rafa

Special tools are required to service this? Or it can be done by mortals, just like servicing a front suspension? I believe only oil goes inside, am I wrong?

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r1limited

wesson oil and or canola with zero saturated fat

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pattonme
3 hours ago, godoy.rafa said:

Special tools are required to service this? 

Yeah, a drill-press/mill, a tap, a source of pressurized N2, pressure gauge, various clip tools, rod holders, a grinder, file, a cache of shims, a bit of oil...

 

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blackout
On ‎7‎/‎31‎/‎2018 at 10:29 AM, godoy.rafa said:

So I can't affort an aftermarket rear shock. 

The bike is a 2016 ABS model, 43.000 KM.

My OEM spring is too soft even after adjusting it.

I took it to a shop and they did the shock, changed the oil. It got better, but it is still too soft.

They tried a different spring but it was too stiff, hurting my back when going through bumps and holes.

So, can you recommend me a spring?

I have 65 kilos.

How much do you weigh?

 

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sk8norcal
On 7/31/2018 at 2:07 PM, pattonme said:

valving (compression circuit) is the problem, not the spring. Your shop should have worried about that. You can try a 115N/mm spring (stock is 120) but you haven't specified what your bike and rider sag values are at both ends.

 

120 N/mm = 685 lb/in = 12.2 kg/mm

115 N/mm = 657 lb/in = 11.7 kg/mm

 

 

another thread claims stock rear spring is 108 N/mm = 620 lb/in = 11.1 kg/mm

 

 

Edited by sk8norcal

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blackout
  • For what it's worth, I'm 180 pounds with gear and run a 625 lb/in spring on my Nitron R3.  This spring rate works good so far on track and is slightly stiff for comfy street riding over shitty highway patch jobs.
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godoy.rafa
On 8/3/2018 at 9:05 PM, blackout said:

How much do you weigh?

 

65 kilos.

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godoy.rafa
On 8/3/2018 at 8:38 PM, pattonme said:

Yeah, a drill-press/mill, a tap, a source of pressurized N2, pressure gauge, various clip tools, rod holders, a grinder, file, a cache of shims, a bit of oil...

 

Nevermind then

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sk8norcal

After more riding my fz07 with the Ohlin stx46 shock.  I still find the ride too stiff.  Spring is 115 N/mm = 657 lb/in.  I am 180 lbs with gear.  Changed rider sag to 35mm.

Edited by sk8norcal

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stickshift

I'm 160 lb light and don't find the ohlins spring too stiff at all. It's no arm chair to ride but it's very plush.

 

What's your rebound set at?

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sk8norcal
6 hours ago, stickshift said:

I'm 160 lb light and don't find the ohlins spring too stiff at all. It's no arm chair to ride but it's very plush.

 

What's your rebound set at?

17  clicks.   (14 clicks is "recommended")

 

what I find interesting is the difference in recommended spring rate between all these shock manufacturers.

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pattonme

There's some leeway on spring. For any given spring rate it's suitability has a +/-20lb range.  You can go outside that bracket and it'll still "work" but now your bike vs rider sag values become harder to hit.

 

Just because you can hit rider sag be it with a ton of preload or no preload doesn't mean it's right. You have to hit both. Given that a rider of X can still hit both ranges with a spring rate on either side of 'optimal' means pick your poison - it's not critical. Damping is almost always the problem and OE shocks are just hopeless.

 

Edited by pattonme
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godoy.rafa
On 8/3/2018 at 8:38 PM, pattonme said:

Yeah, a drill-press/mill, a tap, a source of pressurized N2, pressure gauge, various clip tools, rod holders, a grinder, file, a cache of shims, a bit of oil...

 

Can I measure the nitro pressure with a simple measure tool and increase pressure with any nitrogen source? Is there a limit you know?

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firstyammerha

can you change oil through that valve as posted earlier? I've not seen a picture of the internal set up so just curious. 

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twf
On 8/8/2018 at 4:33 PM, godoy.rafa said:

Can I measure the nitro pressure with a simple measure tool and increase pressure with any nitrogen source? Is there a limit you know?

Not easily but it can be done. Much simpler with correct tools and nitrogen bottle. You need around 150-200 psi. 

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