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captainkool4

Clutch not pulled in enough?

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captainkool4

Hey guys,

 

Sometimes when I shift I use two fingers and the stock clutch lever hits my resting fingers and so I don't pull the clutch all the way down before shifting.  Is this going to harm my clutch?  Im not sure if the half squeeze I give it is completely disengaging the clutch the same way a full pull to the bar would.

Edited by captainkool4

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CarGuy7a

Should be fine as long as it's enough to relieve the pressure off the transmission. Some of us don't even use the clutch while up shifting by using methods of throttle chopping or a quick shifter to relieve that pressure on the trans.

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DewMan
48 minutes ago, captainkool4 said:

Hey guys,

 

Sometimes when I shift I use two fingers and the stock clutch lever hits my resting fingers and so I don't pull the clutch all the way down before shifting.  Is this going to harm my clutch?  Im not sure if the half squeeze I give it is completely disengaging the clutch the same way a full pull to the bar would.

If you need to completely engage the clutch lever to the grip to  disengage the transmission, your clutch needs serious adjustment.

 

As long as you're able to pull it in far enough to not feel the friction zone drag on the clutch by the motor.... it should be fine.

 

Some of us always use the clutch lever when shifting to minimize the possibility of added wear & tear on drivetrain parts. To each their own. ✌️

Edited by DewMan
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captainkool4

Dewman,

 

So you're saying I need to pull the clutch to just past where the friction zone begins?  So if I don't pull it that far, could I be damaging my clutch over time?

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no-lag

Where are you located?

 

If you don’t pull the clutch in all the way  The clutch will be OK but it will damage the transmission when you’re shifting into different gears, the dog teeth will get damaged more and more over time. 

 

Also if you don’t pull the clutch in all the way you will be getting a jerk motion when the gear changes.

 

your local mechanic can make a 5 minute  Adjustment, I wouldn’t even charge someone for this service at my shop.

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DewMan
6 hours ago, captainkool4 said:

Dewman,

 

So you're saying I need to pull the clutch to just past where the friction zone begins?  So if I don't pull it that far, could I be damaging my clutch over time?

As long as the clutch lever is pulled in enough to fully disengage the clutch that's far enough. I'm not aware of any issue with pulling the clutch lever in further than that.  

 

Not pulling in the clutch lever enough to fully disengage the clutch can cause excess wear on the drive train parts as @no-lag stated.

Edited by DewMan
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Beemer

@no-lag and @DewMan

 

If not pulling in the clutch enough to fully disengage the clutch can cause excess wear & tear on a drive train then this brings me back to the subject of whether it's OK to clutch-less shift. In the past people have said you can do it with this type transmission but that's not the same as saying 'it's safe to do it'. Thoughts? Thanks!

 

 

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no-lag

@Beemer you can RPM match and shift with no clutch Pull but only exp riders know how to do this.

 

or a quick shifter/auto down blimper

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gregjet

I have been clutchless shifting on every japanese bike I owned since the 70's and never had a problem ( including with my race bikes that I pulled down at regular intervals. The exception was Hondas , which do not like downshifting at all without the clutch. This may no longer be the case as I haven't owned a current Honda for a while ( though the VTR 250 gearbox hasn't changed and doesn't like it).

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Beemer
On ‎7‎/‎5‎/‎2018 at 11:03 AM, no-lag said:

@Beemer you can RPM match and shift with no clutch Pull but only exp riders know how to do this.

 

or a quick shifter/auto down blimper

I'm aware that it can be done, I do it on my bike and learned it in cars at 15 when my dad taught me how to do it but the question isn't can it be done, (many, many people do it) the question is, is it safe for the gears to do it? 

Edit: After reading about it some more it appears that although it would likely create some wear & tear on the gears it might not necessarily be enough that you would notice it or have to replace the gears during the time a person owned the bike.

 

Then that all depends on how long you own the bike. The engine could likely go out before the gears would but maybe not, it may depend on whether you clutch-less shift right or not. To sum it up it seems (to me anyway) it's a risk you take. I don't think anyone can say for sure your gears WILL go out on you if you clutch-less shift.

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gregjet

The load on clutchless shifting , if you are chunky about it won't be on the gears themselves in a constant mesh gearbox, it would be on the engagement dogs. I regularly inspected these for wear in my race bikes and saw nothing untoward.

With bikes with a cush drive sprockets, the transient load is always reduced anyway.

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M7C00L

At the risk of removing the dead post...

I just got my first service and the friction point seems REALLY far out. It's to the point that I'm worried it's not fully engaging...

Is that normal?

Is it simple to adjust? (Not the cable, not the lever, I mean the actual clutch friction point)

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rick

As long as there's play in the cable with the lever full out, there's notty. The clutch pack will be closed up tight. 

 

You ou can add some more slack to the cable by turning the barrel adjuster. That will bring the disengagement point back closer to the bar if you prefer. 

 

The he cable slack is specified by a measurement at the lever. It's in the manual

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r1limited

Cut your two fingers off, they are not used for anything anyway

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robbo10

I would bring all my fingers into the job, as I do. Sorted.

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