MT 07 Tire Pressure

[Beemer]

I have a big question to ask of the pros in here. I know that the bike manual is usually the thing to turn to for answers but there's one thing in it that irritates, it's the recommended tire pressure. Maybe I'm wrong but it seems to me tire companies don't make all their tires the same, they test their own tires and know what psi is best for optimal performance with their tires so does a person ignore what they say or go with the manual's blanket settings?

[rick]

Usually, the pressure listed on a tire is the maximum load pressure. So at whatever maximum weight the tire is rated for, that's the pressure you'll see on the tire. 

 

This bike is so light, combined with a great big fat tire in back, if you ran it at the tire company's rated inflation - say 42 psi, you'd have one terrible ride quality and quite possibly a loss of traction as the tire can't conform well to the road surface. . 

 

My Aprilia, @ 130 lbs more and 50% more power, carries the same sized tires and recommended pressures of 36F and 40R. Even that would make for a harsh ride for the FZ. 

 

Long story short - I go by the bike's manual. 

[stickshift]

Motorcycle manufacturers have so many variables to consider for tyre pressure they should be commended for giving tyre pressure recommendations that are anywhere near usable.

 

Variables such as road temperature, road surface, rider weight (& loaded bike weight) & riding style depend a lot on adequate tyre pressures.

 

There have never been as many high quality tyre options for all different riding types as there are now. It's important that riders are realistic about their needs when choosing.

[Beemer]

I said that wrong and didn't mean to imply I meant the maximum load that's printed on the tire itself, mine says 805 lbs. @ 42 psi. and I don't think I'm anywhere near that weight. I just ran across this article and I'm particularly satisfied with this paragraph taken from it, 

"The issue of correct tyre pressures becomes a bit more complex when you look at it from the point of view of the tyre manufacturers. While motorcycle manufacturers tend to simplify their recommendations, some tyre manufacturers can supply a variety of pressures depending on maximum speed, maximum load and sometimes even ambient temperature. This is more important in places such as Europe where roads can be icy and autobahns can have very high speed limits. In normal use, tyre manufacturers’ recommended pressures won’t vary much from motorcycle manufacturers’ recommendations."  -  https://motorbikewriter.com/correct-motorcycle-tyre-pressures/

 

 

[rider]

I've seen where people ride to get the tire warmed up and either check the temperature or the pressure.  They want the increase to be in a certain range and adjust the pressure until they get it where they want it.  But danged if I could find where I'd seen the articles.

I just go by the sticker and I seem to do ok.  But I'm not a professional expert ninja guru sensei master on all things motorcycle.  I just ride em.

[gregjet]

To give you an idea of tyre variation.

I raced a ER6N on a short track in the tropics. Ideal pressure was...26 front 28 rear HOT. Cold I would start at 25/26 then reset when hot ( tyre warmers not allowed). Above that there was pretty much no grip. On the road it was impossible to ride it with anything below 32/34.

My little race  bikes would use 19 and 20psi. They did way about 60-70kg though.

Sally's KTM 690 Duke recommended was 32/34 manual and handled best at 28/28 on the road. But for loaded touring she ended up with 34/40 ( no pillion).

My old BMW F800R had the same size tyres and the 07 ( weighed 40kg more and had another 20HP) . It ran 32f/36r psi unloaded for best feel and 38/42 loaded.  Manual was 32/42 unloaded. Changed to a 170/60 Continental Road attack 2 on the back and it used LESS pressure than the big one ( Metzler).

Note this is with a huge range of tyre sizes and brands.

You have to experiment and go by feel. Too much feels like riding on steel rims , too little like riding in wet mud. You need a place to ride with consistent conditions and that you can ride and re-ride as you adjust. Your tyres are your number one safety and performance items. Take the time and do it right.

[rick]

The track is just such a different animal when it comes to tire pressures - loads more speed and no wheel eating holes to worry about. think your experience will be pretty familiar - far lower pressures than recommended than for the street. 

 

Interesting, yer experience with the Duke. I'll have to ask that friend of mine who used to have a 2009 version (before the changes to the current ones). Curious to see if he ran pressures that low. I suspect he's pretty close to KTM specs for his current 1290R SDuke's tire pressures. As you can imagine, that thing can eat an expensive 190 rear like ice-cream.  

 

 

[pattonme]

30-34F, 30-36R covers 3-sigma of 550-600lbs of bike+rider. pick top end of range or add more if rider is heavier or adding significant luggage.

 

Owner's Manual figures apply only to the OE tire and generally speaking for max gross vehicle weight configuration. Some manuals (FZ/FJ09) dictate max side-wall pressures at any weight configuration which is just asinine but it makes the lawyers sleep at night.

 

At the track you can realistically get a 10% difference between cold and hot. Normal street riding though that can be tougher but it's not a bad goal. Just be mindful that you don't want to keep taking air out trying to hit that so-called 10% target and get the cold's too low. Unless you have good reason to do so, I don't recommend dropping below 30psi cold. That said, eg. my DRZ400 I have run at 28F/30R. 

[gregjet]

Pattonme, DRZ400. Another bike we both had. I had the SM though. The S21's I found were bloody aweful above 24/26psi? The bike only weighs about 4 ounces and I had lightened mine ( except Safari fuel tank which was lighter but held way more fuel so ended upo heavier).

I couldn't work out why it wouldn't corner until I dropped the pressure. I had shortened the suspension travel, front and rear, a fair bit though.

[Beemer]

On ‎6‎/‎17‎/‎2018 at 5:59 PM, gregjet said:

To give you an idea of tyre variation.

I raced a ER6N on a short track in the tropics. Ideal pressure was...26 front 28 rear HOT. Cold I would start at 25/26 then reset when hot ( tyre warmers not allowed). Above that there was pretty much no grip. On the road it was impossible to ride it with anything below 32/34.

My little race  bikes would use 19 and 20psi. They did way about 60-70kg though.

Sally's KTM 690 Duke recommended was 32/34 manual and handled best at 28/28 on the road. But for loaded touring she ended up with 34/40 ( no pillion).

My old BMW F800R had the same size tyres and the 07 ( weighed 40kg more and had another 20HP) . It ran 32f/36r psi unloaded for best feel and 38/42 loaded.  Manual was 32/42 unloaded. Changed to a 170/60 Continental Road attack 2 on the back and it used LESS pressure than the big one ( Metzler).

Note this is with a huge range of tyre sizes and brands.

You have to experiment and go by feel. Too much feels like riding on steel rims , too little like riding in wet mud. You need a place to ride with consistent conditions and that you can ride and re-ride as you adjust. Your tyres are your number one safety and performance items. Take the time and do it right.

Here are some lines I copied from a very informative site that back what @gregjet said.

"Be careful when asking advice from other riders because tire choice is a very subjective decision. They may want something different from their tire than you do. Be willing to do some research. I have even gone as far as calling tire manufacturers and asking them for more specific information and asking them to compare their tire to another tire I am familiar with. Also, be willing to make your own decisions away from what "everyone else" seems to be saying. There is one tire manufacturer that everyone seems to love, but every time we try one of their tires we have a negative experience. *Popular does not always mean better."     -     http://canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/tires.php

[rick]

NIce article. And from that was this

 

[faffi]

Some say to pick a cold pressure that gives a 10% increase in pressure at operating temps. Personally, I try to find a setting that gives me comfort, grip and light handling. Usually, I am not sensitive to tyre pressure, but anything below 36PSI on the Michelin Macadam 50 fitted to my KZ1300 made it feel like it had a puncture. The Michelin PR3s on the MT07 are run 28/30 front/rear because they are so bloody hard, and they still stay cool even after extended rides, so there is nothing to suggest they are under-inflated. They also wear like iron. 

[Beemer]

5 hours ago, rick said:

NIce article. And from that was this

 

I saw that. I don't recall ever running at max psi except for when I had a leak in a tire and had to get the bike somewhere in an allotted time before the pressure went to low. that's just a lot of psi and so unnecessary if not carrying a big load. right now my tires are at 34 psi F and 36 R and it feels fine. G-night ladies! I'm offline for the day and have to assemble my new smoker that came in today.

[dmoney]

On 6/20/2018 at 5:18 AM, faffi said:

Some say to pick a cold pressure that gives a 10% increase in pressure at operating temps. Personally, I try to find a setting that gives me comfort, grip and light handling. Usually, I am not sensitive to tyre pressure, but anything below 36PSI on the Michelin Macadam 50 fitted to my KZ1300 made it feel like it had a puncture. The Michelin PR3s on the MT07 are run 28/30 front/rear because they are so bloody hard, and they still stay cool even after extended rides, so there is nothing to suggest they are under-inflated. They also wear like iron. 

I ran the PR3's at about 38/f and 42/r and they were amazing. Im a bigger guy so i tried it out and worked fantastic. Could scrape the c**p out of the pegs and got 25,500 kms out of them. Probably could've got about another 5k out of them but winter started and they felt done in the rain. I'll be doing the same with my new PR5's

[faffi]

For me it is about comfort; the PR3 feels like they are made from iron. Usually, I run my radials at 36/42, but when I tried that on the MT07 it felt like I was riding on solid wheels, not pneumatic.

[dmoney]

I suppose it depends what you're accustomed to. I spent alot of my younger years road cycling competitively where you're riding on a bike with no suspension and tyres at 160psi so this was like a sofa after that haha

[topazsparrow]

11 hours ago, dmoney said:

I ran the PR3's at about 38/f and 42/r and they were amazing. Im a bigger guy so i tried it out and worked fantastic. Could scrape the c**p out of the pegs and got 25,500 kms out of them. Probably could've got about another 5k out of them but winter started and they felt done in the rain. I'll be doing the same with my new PR5's

I ran my PR4s too low accidentally (about 30psi F&R) and they got crazy flat spotting and cupping in 5000 km's. They're down to the wear bars now

 

the PR3's where MUCH better to me.

[faffi]

Despite the low pressure I've used, the PR3 as now 13,000 km old and still have plenty of life left, with a good profile on them.

[TylerNT02]

Just curious but what tires do you recommend using for strictly commuting and occasional canyon carving？

[Beemer]

@TylerNT02From everything I've read in this thread and from in the past it looks like it's safe to say a Michelin PR3 would be a pretty good tire to start with. I just may go with those my next tire just for the longevity.

[TylerNT02]

59 minutes ago, Beemer said:

@TylerNT02From everything I've read in this thread and from in the past it looks like it's safe to say a Michelin PR3 would be a pretty good tire to start with. I just may go with those my next tire just for the longevity.

Awesome I'll try those out, thanks! 

[Beemer]

32 minutes ago, TylerNT02 said:

Awesome I'll try those out, thanks! 

Of course you could go straight to the top and buy the latest/greatest Michelin tire or any 'best tire' from a different company. Have you done any research? I can see where some people might say that since you're going to be doing some canyon carving you should go with a more aggressive tire than a PR3. I suggest you do the research to be sure. I can't really say whether or not a PR3 is very good for real aggressive riding.

[TylerNT02]

I'll have to look into it more but I will keep the PR3 in mind