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Nooby Chain lube questions


captainkool4

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On ‎6‎/‎21‎/‎2018 at 10:44 AM, fzar said:

Whats your thoughts on Maxima chain wax?

 

I haven't had any problems with it. It doesn't fling everywhere, it stays on the chain and wears well, it repels water/moisture well ands seems to have all good qualities as mentioned in the description. I really have no reason to try anything else. I'm perfectly happy with this stuff but I'm going to give the Dupont Chain Saver a try just because it has the added benefit of Teflon.

EDIT: IT'S PARAFFIN BASED.

Beemer

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4 hours ago, fzar said:

Whats your thoughts on Maxima chain wax?

 

same problem as all the other, like products (PJ1 black, blue, etc)

Gear oil is dirt cheap, just sayin'. But I won't rehash my earlier rant.

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Pattonme, when you said thin,  I was thinking 5w or sewing machine oil.  30w ( engine) I would call medium. Perspective I guess.

I used to used wax dissolved in petrol ( gas????) in the days before rubber ring chains and on my non ringed race bikes, but fuel swells and destroys the seals. Anyone know for certain of a solvent that will dissolve wax, have a low enough vapour pressure to evaporate at room temp and NOT harm the seals?

Go forth and modify my son...go forth and modify...

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1 hour ago, pattonme said:

same problem as all the other, like products (PJ1 black, blue, etc)

Gear oil is dirt cheap, just sayin'. But I won't rehash my earlier rant.

 https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/valvoline-high-performance-80w90-gear-oil-1-quart-vv831/7070003-P

Something along this line of gear oil?

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topazsparrow
58 minutes ago, gregjet said:

Pattonme, when you said thin,  I was thinking 5w or sewing machine oil.  30w ( engine) I would call medium. Perspective I guess.

I used to used wax dissolved in petrol ( gas????) in the days before rubber ring chains and on my non ringed race bikes, but fuel swells and destroys the seals. Anyone know for certain of a solvent that will dissolve wax, have a low enough vapour pressure to evaporate at room temp and NOT harm the seals?

Kerosene is pretty widely regarded as one of the best cleaning agents for chains. It dissolves grease and oil, while lubricating and doesn't leave much of a residue.

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On 6/15/2018 at 2:58 PM, fzar said:

It works for me, as fling goes its minimal as its wax-based ( wipe off excess), yes its o-ring safe, I don't know about it helping the sprocket last longer but mine is in great shape. I would have gone with Bel-Ray chain lube but seeming as the previous owner handed me everything he had du -pont wax based lube I decided to give it a try,  including rear stand, yama-lube 10w-40 quart, grime brush, battery tender, OEM rear fender, gun-lock for locking a helmet (instead of the poxy 1 under the pillion) he needed the money and was getting out of bikes, so he gave me everything he had.

 

Well that explains the grime I get on mine. I have neglected to wipe the excess off the past few times.

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Littlebriar

Here's a great video that shows many of the tips and techniques discussed in this thread.

 

Steve, 2017 Yamaha FZ-07, 2016 BMW 1200RT, 2019 Ducati Monster 1200s - Harbor Beach, Michigan

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heh, LOVE the sludge at 5:12. 😀 That's what you DON'T get when you use oil. Nor the black tar splattered on the frame nor swingarm etc.

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Been using gear oil ever since I got rid of my last BMW in 2003. The closest I get to "cleaning" my chains is just to wipe the side plates with a clean paper towel at the end of the season.  No aerosol cans, solvents, or nasty brushes needed. What little that does fling off seems to take the dirt with it and that can be wiped off easily. 

 

The other thing 90w oil does well that the dry lubes can't (and I think what i've actually been using is 85w140) is to keep chain noise to a minimum. It flows easily under the rollers and does a really nice job of quelling any jingling. The chain near gets stiff or tight spots

 

and one bottle of gear oil will last a long, long time. 

 

 

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Camp fuel is so volatile it can be ignited by a "HOT FART" 2:58 ish, maybe I should be putting it in the tank!!!

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1 hour ago, rick said:

 think what i've actually been using is 85w140

If you really want to punch the "crazy" card try some Mobil Vactra No. 2 that they use on lathes and mills - a mere $30/gal. It is designed to not run off vertical surfaces and resists being washed off by the pressurized liquid cooling of cutting tools. However, I don't have personal experience with it on chains.

 

I can see it now - New Product from Forks-by-Matt. 8oz squeeze bottle of Vactra. Only $12.99 includes shipping.

*kidding*

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On ‎6‎/‎13‎/‎2018 at 11:33 PM, pattonme said:

not to start a religious war...

Anything tacky attracts dirt like you wouldn't believe. The whole point of "lubing" the chain to to keep the grit and grime AWAY from the o-rings which are sealing in the ACTUAL lubricants. What you're spraying on does little/nothing to improve the link-to-link friction of the pins against the rollers. Only a fluid-like thin lube washes away the grit and grime. The alternative is a completely dry film- like product that is what I call "dirt slick" which sheds foreign matter - eg. paraffin, PTFE, Moly, or graphite.

 

Run a chain with tacky-shet and you'll end up with a counter-sprocket area just thick with a black tar full of sand and grit. I know from personal experience. In order to get rid of all the other black mess on the chain you end up having to scrub away with a solvent - which generally ruins the o-rings with enough effort.

 

Long ago I got smart. I never clean my chains because I don't have to - they run clean. I just run a thin bead of 80w90 gear oil down the plate gap and if there is excess it wipes off trivially with a paper towel. Any fling is likewise a quick swipe and done.

 

If I remember I lube my chain every couple weeks. If I'm doing several hundred miles a day I might do it every couple of days.

 

If you're running a non-o-ring chain on a race bike to minimize frictional losses, then I still wouldn't use anything tacky. Oil it before the first session, every day. Maybe.

 

Beemer

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1 hour ago, pattonme said:

If you really want to punch the "crazy" card try some Mobil Vactra No. 2 that they use on lathes and mills - a mere $30/gal. It is designed to not run off vertical surfaces and resists being washed off by the pressurized liquid cooling of cutting tools. However, I don't have personal experience with it on chains.

 

I can see it now - New Product from Forks-by-Matt. 8oz squeeze bottle of Vactra. Only $12.99 includes shipping.

*kidding*

Kinda hoping the chain never gets hot enough for it to actually behave like a w140 oil. I'm still mixing some cheap white Li grease in to make it even a tad thicker - just so it doesn't leak out of my oiler by gravity while in the garage. 

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On 6/21/2018 at 9:03 AM, fzar said:

What BelRay chain lube do you use @shinyribs

Sorry for not replying sooner. I use BelRay's Super Clean.

 

https://www.denniskirk.com/bel-ray/super-clean-chain-lube-99470-a400w.p306456.prd/306456.sku?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cse&gclid=Cj0KCQjw37fZBRD3ARIsAJihSr1LG78lyMn5tn9lEK_QHJhcuuBp3roRAVKpaimGIrb05DNE_KVODTIaAoAbEALw_wcB&ad=244288898343

 

Now, when I had a bike that was parked outdoors year round and saw a lot of offroad and not much cleaning , I liked to use Maxima's Chain Wax. I find the BelRay dissolves easier in Kerosene, so cleaning is easier vs the wax- but they both seems to hold up as well as the other in rain. The wax does seem to hold a bit more grit, though. 

 

I keep a can of Maxima's chain wax on hand for coating parts I'm putting in storage that I think may rust or corrode. Or even parts on a bike that I want to protect from corrosion ( underneath yoke clamps, exposed caliper pistons...)I even use it to coat engine cylinders when I am glass bead blasting the outside of a jug to protect the machined surface from the media. It's that durable. No direct hits with the media, of course, but still...good stuff. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Instead of gear oil has anyone tried Bar And Chain Oil.

You can get a gallon jug for $6.00 . It does not stink like gear oil.

https://www.ruralking.com/mile-master-bar-and-chain-oil-1-gallon

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firstyammerha

and no one has stepped in for WD 40 yet. I've given thought to using it based on chatter in other forums but wondered about its strength where the roller meets the sprocket. Therefore I'll stick with a bike specific spray lube that  thickens after application but is thin as it comes out of the can and mop it up when I'm through slathering the chain. Currently it's a Honda brand lube which seems to perform as advertised.  

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topazsparrow
1 minute ago, firstyammerha said:

and no one has stepped in for WD 40 yet. I've given thought to using it based on chatter in other forums but wondered about its strength where the roller meets the sprocket. Therefore I'll stick with a bike specific spray lube that  thickens after application but is thin as it comes out of the can and mop it up when I'm through slathering the chain. Currently it's a Honda brand lube which seems to perform as advertised.  

WD-40 is not a real lubricant. It's a penetrating oil.

 

Also, the lubrication where the sprocket meets the rollers isn't where you're actually concerned about lubrication - that's why they are rollers. It's the sides of the chains where the x and o rings are that is critical to keep well lubed. The sides is what determines the longevity and health of your chain.

 

at the end of the day, similar to engine oils - what matters more than the kind you use, is how clean you can keep it and how often you do it. The best oil in the world won't do shet if you never clean your chain or you only oil it once every 10,000k

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firstyammerha

Thanks for the feedback topazsparrow. I believe now that I think about it the other posts on the forums I mentioned did mean for the WD40 to be used as a lubricant and longevity enhancer for the o rings and not as a friction or wear reducer. You'd need something like the gear oil which others described to help with reducing the sprocket wear.

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Liquidmetal

Maxima Chain Wax is all I will ever use.  Not only does it do a great job of lubricating and protecting the chain, it absolutely stays put.  I get zero fling with the stuff.  Love it.

Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work.

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Maxima chain wax here.  Never really used any other brands but then again, never felt the need to.  Give it a spray every 400 or so miles and fully clean and reapply every 800.

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firstyammerha

anybody use chain cleaning brushes like I've seen advertised in my monthly CycleGear flyer? I've been using the oldest and grungiest rag in my rag pile to remove the excess lube.Think I'll try the Maxima or Klotz products after my current lube runs out.

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