How To: RSC Lever Install

[bakamoto]

Hopefully this help a little!

 

[CarGuy7a]

Good how to video. I didn't use the additional spacer on mine and it worked out fine. Also one thing to note about shorting the clutch switch wires. It's not a good idea to do so as the bike has a specific map for idling when the clutch is pulled in and those wires are making contact. I shorted mine with a piece of wire without removing the connector and I noticed when they were shorted the bike ran like crap while riding it at speed I had all kinds of weird symptoms from power loss to lean sputtering while riding at constant throttle. You'll notice this "map change" when shifting from N into 1st when the wires are not shorted and the engine running. When you shift into first the idle will raise about 300 to 400 RPM (when the wires are not shorted). What happens is when those wires are open circuit (clutch engaged lever out) it tells the ECU to run in a different map that wakes the fueling up. You don't notice it with the factory clutch perch and switch in normal operation as you are already starting to move on the bike when this happens. When you remove the switch and leave them open circuit it tricks the ecu into thinking you are moving so it will run in the appropriate map but that leaves you only able to start the bike in N unless you add a normally open button that when you press essentially shorts the wires to you can start it in gear.

 

I was chasing my tail around this for a week until I pulled up the bikes wiring diagram in my service manual and found out the clutch switch wires go directly to the ECU then I knew something was with that and started experimenting. Found out that leaving the wires shorted was the problem. Once I removed the piece of wire shorting the switch wires, bike ran fine again.

[bakamoto]

18 hours ago, CarGuy7a said:

Good how to video. I didn't use the additional spacer on mine and it worked out fine. Also one thing to note about shorting the clutch switch wires. It's not a good idea to do so as the bike has a specific map for idling when the clutch is pulled in and those wires are making contact. I shorted mine with a piece of wire without removing the connector and I noticed when they were shorted the bike ran like crap while riding it at speed I had all kinds of weird symptoms from power loss to lean sputtering while riding at constant throttle. You'll notice this "map change" when shifting from N into 1st when the wires are not shorted and the engine running. When you shift into first the idle will raise about 300 to 400 RPM (when the wires are not shorted). What happens is when those wires are open circuit (clutch engaged lever out) it tells the ECU to run in a different map that wakes the fueling up. You don't notice it with the factory clutch perch and switch in normal operation as you are already starting to move on the bike when this happens. When you remove the switch and leave them open circuit it tricks the ecu into thinking you are moving so it will run in the appropriate map but that leaves you only able to start the bike in N unless you add a normally open button that when you press essentially shorts the wires to you can start it in gear.

 

I was chasing my tail around this for a week until I pulled up the bikes wiring diagram in my service manual and found out the clutch switch wires go directly to the ECU then I knew something was with that and started experimenting. Found out that leaving the wires shorted was the problem. Once I removed the piece of wire shorting the switch wires, bike ran fine again.

Ended up doing this to solve it just so I can still start it in 1st if I feel like. Definitely overkill but it works!

[CarGuy7a]

There ya go. I found just a regular normally open button and made a bracket out of alum flat stock to mount it to. I used the bottom screw on the clutch perch to hold it in place that way I can use my thumb to hit it really quick if I need to fire the bike fast in gear.

[HurstFZ07]

I know this is an old thread but this may help someone that's searching. Another option is wiring to the momentary brights switch. I had to extend the wires a few inches. I never use it anyway.

 

[CarGuy7a]

^^^^^^ Interesting option there HurstFZ thanks for sharing it.