derekfz Posted April 16, 2018 Share Posted April 16, 2018 (edited) My bike started recently struggling to shift into the next gear or downshift. When I pull my foot up to upshift it’ll move but I’ll feel no gear there so I’ll “wiggle” the shifter down and up with my foot and it’ll engage the gear after that. It’s annoying if I have to stop fast or shift fast. I bought my bike in February last year and has 16k miles is this something warranty might cover? Seems too new to be having issues like this i am very mad. This is my first Yamaha I’ve owned. Or if this isn’t a quick fix. My oil is fresh, chain slack is perfect. Clutch seems to engage and disengage fine. Thanks ahead of time. Edited April 16, 2018 by derekfz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r1limited Posted April 16, 2018 Share Posted April 16, 2018 (edited) Are you clutching it hammering in 1st through 3rd up/downshifting with out clutch Did you lay it down or drop it on the shift side muk with the shiftarm pull the clutch cover Have you checked the cable freeplay validated cable adjustments Changed boots Edited April 16, 2018 by r1limited “Laws that forbid the carrying of arms disarm only those who are neither inclined nor determined to commit crimes.” --Thomas Jefferson quoting Cesare Beccaria Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thrasherg Posted April 16, 2018 Share Posted April 16, 2018 I am not familiar with the FZ07 gear linkage, but most gear mechanisms have a 90 degree pivot in the gear linkage behind the clutch basket with a small spring that pulls the arm up against the gear selector drum. if that spring breaks or the pivot binds, you can get the symptom you describe. It usually means draining the oil, removing the engine casing, removing the clutch and examining the spring and arm.. Just a thought. Gary 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member norcal616 Posted April 16, 2018 Premium Member Share Posted April 16, 2018 are you letting the shift lever fall back to its "neutral" position before next shift? 2 2015 fz-07- Hordpower Edition...2015 fj-09- 120whp- Graves Exhaust w/Woolich Race Kit- tuned by 2WDW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r1limited Posted April 16, 2018 Share Posted April 16, 2018 10 minutes ago, norcal616 said: are you letting the shift lever fall back to its "neutral" position before next shift? Thus the question on boot change, I have never had a set of boots accept the ergo of a previous boot setup on shift or brake. More importantly false postitives while trying to shift the boo hangs up the arm. 1 “Laws that forbid the carrying of arms disarm only those who are neither inclined nor determined to commit crimes.” --Thomas Jefferson quoting Cesare Beccaria Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shinyribs Posted April 16, 2018 Share Posted April 16, 2018 My bike was like this when it was new. It still does is some, but it's getting much better. Going on about 6k miles on the bike now and it's almost completely gone away. Of all the dozens of bikes I've ridden, the FZ 07 gearbox is the worst for doing this. So while breaking in helps, I think it's also just a quirk of these specific gearboxes. Very smooth shifting transmission, but not very definite gear changes. If the bike is new, just give it time to break in some. Also, don't wait too long to down shift. These bikes really seem to prefer it if you downshift one gear - then another as you are slowing down, as opposed to shedding a bunch of speed and then trying to downshift several gears at once. Lastly, if the bike has some miles on it, how long ago since your last oil change? Lots of bike transmissions are sensitive to worn oil. I used to gauge when it was time to change the oil in my old CB's strictly by how the shifter felt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekfz Posted April 17, 2018 Author Share Posted April 17, 2018 (edited) Cable free play? The only thing I have done recently is take my clutch cable loose and lube it. But the issues started yesterday. I changed my oil 400 miles ago, two weeks ago. I did change my rear sets last month too but they have been fine up to now. After reading more post i am going to adjust my shift lever to near “90” degrees and set my clutch free play I will get back later to see if it worked! Edited April 17, 2018 by derekfz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekfz Posted April 17, 2018 Author Share Posted April 17, 2018 So I got some more riding time and I must say it’s exactly what thrusterhg is saying. It’s like my shifter lost its spring back. I can test it with the bike not even moving by hand. If I move the shifter it shifts and just stays. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r1limited Posted April 17, 2018 Share Posted April 17, 2018 16 hours ago, shinyribs said: Of all the dozens of bikes I've ridden, the FZ 07 gearbox is the worst for doing this. So aperantly you never owned a buel blast or fo rthat matter any HD “Laws that forbid the carrying of arms disarm only those who are neither inclined nor determined to commit crimes.” --Thomas Jefferson quoting Cesare Beccaria Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shinyribs Posted April 17, 2018 Share Posted April 17, 2018 9 minutes ago, r1limited said: So aperantly you never owned a buel blast or fo rthat matter any HD lol True, never owned or ridden any Buell. Comfortable with that, too. Ironhead Sportsters on the other hand, have had a couple of those. Couldn't really find any complaints with them...for what they are. 5 hours ago, derekfz said: So I got some more riding time and I must say it’s exactly what thrusterhg is saying. It’s like my shifter lost its spring back. I can test it with the bike not even moving by hand. If I move the shifter it shifts and just stays. If you're shifter truly isn't returning to it's neutral position, then you've got a problem. However, bike transmissions can't be shifted with the bike sitting still. Make sure you are rolling the bike while you are shifting gears to allow the gear shifter to cycle as is should. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekfz Posted April 17, 2018 Author Share Posted April 17, 2018 I’m going to get it looked at by my dealer my warranty is covered til 2020. They said if it is something like a broken spring it’ll be covered Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted April 18, 2018 Share Posted April 18, 2018 I would check the entire shift linkage from pivot bolt to the clamp - and especially the pinch clamp bolt on the splined shaft going into the gearbox. If that's loose, you'll not get full shifts and will lose the return spring feel - to say nothing of making it hard to find neutral Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member norcal616 Posted April 18, 2018 Premium Member Share Posted April 18, 2018 I do gotta lube the shift lever pivot on the rear set a few times a year as it gets gummed up with road dust... 2015 fz-07- Hordpower Edition...2015 fj-09- 120whp- Graves Exhaust w/Woolich Race Kit- tuned by 2WDW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gregjet Posted April 18, 2018 Share Posted April 18, 2018 (edited) Can we have a picture of the gearchange/footpeg side on, including the gearbox end. More than possible there are actuation angle problems with the setup. ALL links should be as close as possible to rightangles at rest. Edited April 18, 2018 by gregjet addition 1 Go forth and modify my son...go forth and modify... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekfz Posted April 19, 2018 Author Share Posted April 19, 2018 I’m taking It to the dealer tomorrow I’m pretty sure it’s this spring number 5 on my shift shaft. Which should be under warranty. I think they have to tear apart a lot to get to it though. I have gotten pretty good at riding it with it broken though. I just have to move my shifter back down after every gear change or up for down shifts. and my bike still shifts/clutches flawlessly. Going to suck having my daily form of transportation down til they fix it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gregjet Posted April 19, 2018 Share Posted April 19, 2018 The two angle marked included in yellow must be near 90 deg when at rest or the actuation travel will be problematic. 2 Go forth and modify my son...go forth and modify... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gregjet Posted April 19, 2018 Share Posted April 19, 2018 BTW that angle at the footpeg is between the PIVOT(lever) and the pivot(rod), NOT the footpeg as such. In this case they just happen to be the same point. Go forth and modify my son...go forth and modify... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YZEtc Posted April 19, 2018 Share Posted April 19, 2018 Are you allowing the shift lever to return fully to it's "at rest" position after making a shift? Are you keeping your foot under it all the time and not allowing this to happen? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemer Posted April 19, 2018 Share Posted April 19, 2018 Do like us old guys do, put your gut into it. Ha! From what you're describing it sounds like there is a problem. I somehow doubt you don't know how to shift right, I mean if you have learned to shift up and then down to make it work I'm sure you know how to shift right to begin with. Your dealer should find the problem, GL! Beemer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted April 19, 2018 Share Posted April 19, 2018 Assuming that screw #15 in that pict is tight and the clamp on the shift shaft isn't wobbling all over the place - and assuming the lock nut on the adjuster rod has not come loose, then it sounds like something inside has failed. It would be rare, but not unheard of. The motor might have to come out of the frame to get at those bits. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekfz Posted April 21, 2018 Author Share Posted April 21, 2018 yZEtc this is the symptoms I’m having but my shift lever will not return to that “at rest” position on its own. It just stays up or down after I shift no spring load at all. My local dealer is 2 weeks out to looking at my bike so I might do it myself & it’s my daily transportation and I don’t trust them to say it’s covered by warranty and screw me over. But Basically the right engine case has to come off. Then I have to pull the clutch off and the shift rod is right there on the top left. which I can remove by the clip on the other side and slide the arm out and replace the spring on it #5 on that ipc picture I posted. “Torsion spring” it’s what returns the shifter to that neutral position between shifts.but I’m working the next three days so I’m going to ride it like it is, but if I disassemble it next week I will definitely take pictures. I also just put engine ice coolant in my bike and synthetic oil. That’s 80 dollars right there and they will drain it and put oem coolant and oil back again. Here’s a picture of the rod after it’s removed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YZEtc Posted April 21, 2018 Share Posted April 21, 2018 OK. If your shift lever will not return to center after a shift, then, yes, it does sound like that torsion spring is not doing it's job. When you find the cause and cure, please report back and let us know what happened. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r1limited Posted April 21, 2018 Share Posted April 21, 2018 5 hours ago, YZEtc said: OK. If your shift lever will not return to center after a shift, then, yes, it does sound like that YingYang spring is not doing it's job. fixed “Laws that forbid the carrying of arms disarm only those who are neither inclined nor determined to commit crimes.” --Thomas Jefferson quoting Cesare Beccaria Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted April 21, 2018 Share Posted April 21, 2018 If yer gonna do this yourself, you'll need a tool to hold the clutch basket still while remove the center nut - it's pretty tight at 69 ft-lbs. also pay attention to the order of the frictions as the 1st and 2nd disk out from the back are marked and have an orientation . You might be able to cut down on oil loss by having the bike up on 2x8s or wider and then lean the bike left with the sidestand on the ground. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r1limited Posted April 21, 2018 Share Posted April 21, 2018 10 minutes ago, rick said: If yer gonna do this yourself, you'll need a tool to hold the clutch basket still while remove the center nut - it's pretty tight at 69 ft-lbs. also pay attention to the order of the frictions as the 1st and 2nd disk out from the back are marked and have an orientation . You might be able to cut down on oil loss by having the bike up on 2x8s or wider and then lean the bike left with the sidestand on the ground. I will use 1 or 2 cookie sheets, when I am disassembling items like this I place them in order of how they came off. When I reassmble i have items in the order they need to return, that with a MANUAL, i can then validate and be assured all parts are in place and most impportantly accounted for. Left over parts is not weight savings 1 “Laws that forbid the carrying of arms disarm only those who are neither inclined nor determined to commit crimes.” --Thomas Jefferson quoting Cesare Beccaria Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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