Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'sprocket change'.

More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • Yamaha MT-07 FZ-07 Forums
    • MT-07 FZ-07 Discussion
    • MT-07 FZ-07 Garage
    • MT-07 FZ-07 Racing / Track talk
    • Yamaha FJ07 Forum
    • Yamaha XSR 700 Forum
    • Yamaha Tenere 700 World Raid Forum
    • MT-07 FZ-07 Meetups/Regional forums
    • Classifieds
  • Supporting Vendors
    • 2 Wheel Dynoworks Mail in ECU Flashing
    • BellissiMoto - Exotic Parts for All Motorcycles
    • Robem Engineering
    • Forks by Matt


There are no results to display.

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...

Found 2 results

  1. I'm looking for just a bit more torque to give me that extra OOMPH I need getting through the city. I'm ready to re-gear my bike. I have a 2015 FZ07, m4 slip on, 2wdw flash, sprint air filter, R6 throttle tube, protaper low bars. Basic mods. I'm looking for more acceleration, and more torque but not "wheelie monster, stunt man mode." My daily commute is less than 10 miles each day. I rarely go over speeds of 80 mph. I don't really need mass amounts of top end speed. I'm constantly switching lanes, pulling out, or trying to catch that yellow light. As of right now I have my eye on a chain + sprocket kit, 520 conversion, Steel, 16/45 (+2 rear). Thats what most people recommend. +4% torque. I'm worried that I might not feel much of a difference... I found a build your own kit and it has the option of 16/46 (+3 rear, +6% torque) that will fit our bikes. Now that sounds good. however I have never seen not 1 forum post anywhere where people run that on Fz07? Is that a bad ratio or something? Ive heard of 16/47 combo and that's a wheelie machine/ stunt bike territory. Nty. Instead I see people running 15/43 (-1 front, +6% tq) which is the equivilant of 16/46. They even have "quick accel kits" on eBay geared 15/43. However, many people have said, time and again, its not a good idea to go smaller than stock up front, itll ruin chain and sprocket life blahblahblah. Which brings me back to "why don't we run 16/46?" I just want my bike to be good and not subpar filth. If I'm going to drop $150+ on regearing, I just want some good opinions. So what do you think ? 15/43? 16/45? (16/46)
  2. Please help me! Earlier today I tried to replace my chain and sprockets because my old one was.. well, getting old. I'm very new to the whole DIY scene but I've saved a lot of money on previous things like, fixing an alternator, my air filter, spark plugs, etc... just some pretty basic stuff, but today I watched a quick video as usual and just followed what the guy was doing.. took off my chain, and rear sprocket while my girlfriend cleaned up the inside of my rim (lol) and then, this is where I think it gets important: When I went to change my drive sprocket, that nut was fricken ON THERE. I did what the guy was doing and hammered out the nut squeeze lock thing, and stood on the bike trying to pry that thing off, my left arm was recently injured snowboarding however so I put it the stands and my dumb ass put it in 1st gear and starting yankin on it. I felt it slip, forcing the sprocket to move counterclockwise while the engine is off and in 1st gear. So it happened a couple of times.. I finally got the nut off, finished the replacement and everything else went smoothly, get the chain tensioned and all. but before I put the sprocket cover back on I was just playing with the tire a bit.... here's the problem: The rear wheel moves perfectly fine in neutral but when I put it into first or second, my clutch wont fully disengage. If I hold the clutch down, 1st gear, engine off, I can't move my rear wheel anymore. Engine on, and of course the bastard won't stop moving. Here's what I've done: Nothing, except look at the clutch and see how much my lever was pulling in the (I think this is what It's called) "clutch perch" ... It looked like normal movement to me. Here's what I've been thinking of doing: From the research I've been doing, people aren't as dumb as me and do their drive sprocket in neutral with their rear brake (my bad). Also, Is it possible I just froze the clutch? Then I could just try and get my rpm's up, hold my clutch in and get on the rear brake to try and "unfreeze" it correct? I really don't wanna remove my clutch cover but shet if I have to I have to.. If you guys have any better guesses please help! and let me know if you need any more information, this is my first ever post for motorcycles! Thanks so much.

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.