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DISCLAIMER This was a summary of my experience following the shop manual. You should know that this is a procedure with major potential for damaging your engine if you do this incorrectly. What follows is intended to supplement the shop manual, not replace it. The shop manual is absolutely required for this service as it provides exact steps necessary and corresponding torque values for fasteners and heaps of other useful bits of information and helpful diagrams. Perform this service at your own risk. You should be familiar with taking apart your bike for other service before you begin. You should have a firm grasp of how an engine's valve train works to understand what you are doing and why. Tools/supplies you'll need: Yamaha's FZ07 factory service manual 7.48mm OD valve shims - buy a kit or exchange shims with a dealer/shop I used a Hot Cams HCSHIM01 kit. Amazon will say it doesn't fit an FZ07 and they are wrong. 1/4" drive torque wrench 3mm trimmed hex key for cam chain tensioner 2.5mm - 14mm hex drivers or keys 8mm - 13mm box wrenches 8mm - 19mm sockets 14mm deep socket for spark plugs 19mm socket for crankshaft nut (same size as front axle) 1/4" socket extensions, wobble Extendable magnet to pull spark plugs New cam chain tensioner gasket (if you want) New valve cover rubber gasket (if you damage the original one) Feeler gauges Vessel to contain drained coolant Big ass pliers for the coolant pipe spring clamps Philips screwdriver for worm hose clamps Plastic zip ties Air compressor to blow spark plug wells clean (optional) Funnel (optional if you're brave) Gasket sealant or grease (optional if your gasket behaves and stays in place) Procedure Drain coolant. Allow the coolant to drain while you complete the next steps. Remove plastic body work. Remove gas tank fasteners (1, 2), breather hoses (3), and front electronic sensor connection (4) Lift up gas tank to remove fuel pump connector (1), then lift and rotate gas tank counter clockwise and rest on cardboard on the frame. Rest the aluminum bendy tabs back where they were fastened, and the black steel portion on the cardboard. Whatever direction you twist it, be sure that when you replace it, you twist the opposite direction. You could remove the tank if you'd like but that requires removing the fuel line from the tank. Now that the coolant has drained, replace the drain bolt and begin removing the radiator. Remove the fairings, radiator guard (if equipped), and the single bolt on the throttle side (1). The radiator hands on 1 rubber grommet on the clutch side, 1 rubber grommet near the triple tree, and the single bolt you just removed. There's an inlet hose on the top clutch side, an outlet hose on the bottom throttle side, and the small overflow line near the cap. Remove each of these lines however you wish - I removed the bike-side connections for each hose, not the radiator-side, but it doesn't really matter. Remove the horn's electrical connections (2), and the fan motor connection (3). The radiator probably has some residual coolant left, be ready with paper towels. Gently place it on some cardboard with the hose connections facing up (4). Remove the clutch cable guide (1). You're now ready to remove the spark plugs. Unplug each coil (1) and tape each plug to the frame so you remember which side is which! Pull the coils by hand only. Then pull the plugs using a 14mm deep socket and wobble extensions. When removing the coils and plugs, mark on a big sheet of cardboard which coil is which (2) so you know it all goes back together when it was removed from. If you're doing this service, I hope you've removed them once already and left yourself some silicone grease or similar on the rubber boot seal so they're not so hard to remove. Remove the crankcase breather hose (1). Remove valve cover bolts in a criss-cross pattern (1). Zip tie various wiring harnesses, cables, etc out of the way before you begin. Then wiggle and lever out the valve cover without damaging the rubber gasket (2). Place the valve cover gasket side up on cardboard. Remove the crankshaft end cover with 14mm hex driver, and remove riming mark access cover (1). Use 19mm socket and turn crankshaft counter clockwise until timing mark on flywheel aligns with mark on crankcase cover (2), and marks on intake cam sprocket (3) and exhaust cam sprocket (4) all align. Your engine should now be in the service position for valve check and adjustment. DO NOT TURN THE CRANKSHAFT ONCE YOU REMOVE THE CAM CHAIN TENSIONER. THIS WILL MISTIME YOUR ENGINE AND YOU WILL HAVE TO RETIME IT. By having 4 known reference points, the engine can be timed correctly if you make a mistake - ask me how I know. The reference points are, in order of verification: 1. timing mark on flywheel/crankcase (crankshaft position), 2. piston #1 (clutch side) at TDC of compression stroke (you can place something gently through spark plug hole to rest on the piston crown and turn the engine to visualize the peak of travel when the timing mark is aligned incidating TDC of compression stroke), 3. the intake camshaft timing alignment mark (parallel with head edge), 4. the exhaust camshaft alignment mark (parallel with head edge). Now you're ready to begin checking the valve clearances. If you haven't done so already, plug the spark plug holes and the coolant output hose (1). Note that the lobes of piston #1 (clutch side) are not engaging the valve lifters ("buckets") at all. Slide the feeler gauges between the buckets and the cam lobes to measure the clearance (2). Intake should be 0.11-0.20 mm, exhaust should be 0.24-0.30 mm. You're looking for something between "no-go" and "slides right through". The gauge should kind of "stick" in-between the two. You'll "feel" what I mean - that's why they're called feeler gauges. Begin writing these down on a diagram that is explicitly clear which piston is which, and which valve is which. When you're sure of the measurement, rotate the crankshaft 270 degrees counter clockwise and measure piston #2. You could use one of those paper angle wheels or if you're like me you don't have one. I just very gently placed a long hex wrench through the spark plug hole onto the piston crown and rotated what felt like 270 degrees until I saw the piston's peak of travel visualized by the hex wrench beginning to go back down (3). If you do this do not let the angle of the hex wrench catch underneath the camshaft caps! Measure the clearance just as piston #1 and record. If your valves are all within spec, you're done! Put everything back together by following the steps in reverse order. If not, proceed to adjustment.

Here is the good stuff searchin about how to replace a clutch written up by some of the best folks on this site, @mossrider, @shinyribs, @Cruizin, and bunch more of the good folks, spread out across different threads. Read all the threads that come back from this search (by clicking my hyperlink "searchin" above) if you are unsure about clutch change. I'll toss in a few ideas that might help as well, but read everybody else explaining first, then consider this... (1) There is a trick to getting the clutch arm (that the clutch cable pulls directly on at the clutch cover) in the right position so that the stamp on the arm aligns with the stamp on the clutch cover/right case cover. So try this, when you are first full of pizz an vinegar to put your new clutch in, stop as soon as you pull the clutch cover off, and try to put in back on with clutch arm in the right position. You won't get it right, but keep trying, do it 5 or 6 times until you can do it right, before going any further with the maintenance. Your brain will remember how to get it back on, when you need it, if you practice till you get it right up front. (2) You might just want to order 1 x Yamaha 93306-00105, it's the bearing that the clutch pull rod pulls on to relieve the pressure plate pushing on the clutch stack when you pull the clutch lever. Check your bearing when you take off the pressure plate. If any doubt, replace that bearing. EDIT - Get a new water pump O-Ring 1 x 1WS-12439-00-00 , because yes. (3) On metal plates, it's "sharp edge out". If you check the outside diameter of each metal clutch plate, they have a "sharp" and a "round" outside edge (stamped part). Put the metal plates on the clutch stack with the "sharp edge" OUT. Yes you can find people arguing about in/out on metal plates online, but look at your own notes you took when you were pulling each plate off the stack one at a time and "building" a pile of the old plates in the order they came off ( you did make some notes on each pad you took off, right? ) Little things like what "tower opening" gets the plate tab when the new clutch plates get put on - and was the sharp edge IN or OUT. (4) Starting with the first fiber plate you put on, make sure all the plates with tab projections get a plate tab in the "tower opening" directly below the little stamped triangle on the clutch hub until you get to the last fiber plate to go on the stack - the last fiber plate, it gets clocked - so read on to (5) below. (5) The red circle is around the last fiber plate on the stack, just after I put it on. Notice that if you've done everything groovy prior to this last plate, you will have placed every plate prior to the last plate, with it's plate projection tab in the "tower opening" under that stamped triangle on the hub in the pic below. BUT put the last plate in the stack, (one of the two special fiber plates) with it's plate projection tab clocked "one tower notch back" in the "tower opening" circled in RED below - NOT in the triangle "tower opening" (far right in pic) where all the previous plate projection tabs have gone (obviously I don't know what to call the "tabs" on the fiber plates with tabs) (6) You can save some grief with the clutch case cover gasket moving while you're fanagling that clutch cable lever with the pull rod, by picking up some Pematex "High Tack" gasket sealer, and goop one side of the gasket then stick it on (your choice, either the engine case side or on the clutch cover you pulled off). I went against common wisdom and put the Permatex goop on the clutch cover side of the gasket, because the next time I pull this cover off there will be very little gasket sticking to the engine case (no goop), but more on the clutch cover - and because you can take the cover over to your work bench and clean it while you're sitting down rocking out to Devo (you know that hit "don't stick, don't stick, don't stick that gasket to me" - wait, maybe that was Sting, but what ever it's still advice. That's all I got, my bike is built the way I want it, and I already published my good stuff on this site, all I got time for now is to RIDEBABY

1) contents of the OEM Yamaha clutch kit : 7 friction plates, 6 steel plates, replacement springs, replacement gasket 2) Open and soak the clutch plates in 10w40 (same oil as the MT-07 engine oil) anywhere from 1-12hrs. Even just while prepping and removing the old plates. 3) drain the coolant as you'll be removing the water pump. 4) drain the oil although not necessary it's recommended to remove any potential debris if your clutch has "grenaded". Alternately, if you choose not to change the oil then tip the bIke to the left side, draining the oil from the clutch. There very well may still be oil in some nooks and crannies so be sure to put down some cardboard or something to prevent a messing the floor. 5) remove the 3 bolts holding the water pump housing in place and make sure it's fully drained. You do not want anything getting into the clutch area and making it's way into the transmission or engine. 6) remove the clutch cover bolts in a criss cross pattern until they are all able to be turned by finger. Find a piece of cardboard or paper to organize the bolts in a way that you remember where they go when you put it back together 7) make sure you get all of the gasket material off the mating surface and make sure that the surface is clean for when you apply the new gasket remove the clutch cover, making sure not to lose any dowel posts. I suggest that you locate the dowel posts and put them in the engine side instead of leaving them in the clutch cover side, this will make setting the new gasket correctly easier when you're ready to put everything back together. 9) now with all that done you should be looking at the outer piece of the clutch basket or pressure plate. You will see the springs and should be able to see the plates around the edge of the basket. Before removing the springs and pressure plate make sure to inspect the area. Look for and take note of any debris, metal shavings, pieces of clutch, or visible damage. 10) remove the springs by loosening them in a criss cross pattern and place the pieces holding the springs on your cardboard diagram. Replace the springs even if the old ones look fine. 11) remove the pressure plate 12) carefully remove each of the clutch plates setting them off to the side in the order they came out in order to put the new ones in in the correct order. 13) carefully inspect each plate for damage, inspect the friction plates for uneven or excessive wear, and the steel plates for warping or blueing from excessive heat. 14) with all the plates out inspect the basket for signs of damage especially along the "towers". Make sure there is no debris inside the basket if you found any damaged or cracked plates. 15) if everything looks fine insert the new plates in the order you removed the old ones 16) replaces the pressure plate and replace the old springs with the new ones from the kit 17) tighten the new springs to spec 18) wipe down the mating surface on both sides and set the new gasket against the engine side using the dowels to hold it in place 19) carefully place the clutch cover on the dowels, make sure the gasket is not getting pinched anywhere, and return the bolts finger tight 20) in a criss cross pattern tighten the clutch cover bolts to spec 21) return the water pump assy cover and put the 3 bolts back in, tightening to finger tight 22) tighten the 3 bolts to spec 23) reset the clutch cable and spring 24) feel lever making sure it feels right 25) refill the coolant. burping as needed (see MT-07 coolant flush) 26) refill oil and replace filter if removed (see MT-07 oil change) 27) start bike 28) ride hard and wheelies 29) repeat Will update with pics in the next few days Let me know if I forgot anything or made any mistakes pls. Thanks, squidlyfe