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About axemanblue

  • Birthday 07/27/1974

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    City of Angels
  1. axemanblue

    Grip End Causing Throttle to Stick

    Oooooh, looks like the goofy straight bar has struck again. Thanks again for all the assist, everyone. Looks like I'm going to tighten it all back and call this complete. I'll be a bit more thorough in my review next time I'm considering a used bike, even from a dealer as with this. Have fun out there.
  2. axemanblue

    Grip End Causing Throttle to Stick

    Welp, no pin or plastic nub in sight. I removed the bar end and took a peek down the inside of the tube, and there's the hole, but nothing in it. I see am empty hole in the bar as well. I don't even see exactly how the pin/nub fit in, nor have I found it on the parts diagram. Can you guys shed some additional light? Thanks.
  3. axemanblue

    Grip End Causing Throttle to Stick

    Holy simple job, Batman! May all my moto-fixes be that easy! i28 your message came through as I was doing the fix. I will definitely double-check that pin, which I assume is meant to hold the throttle tube in its proper place. The whole thing slid over as if not held in place at all, so something sounds off. I'll give it a peek tomorrow. (For the record, this is the last time I let someone else put on a handlebar for me.) Thanks again.
  4. axemanblue

    Grip End Causing Throttle to Stick

    Thanks for the replies, riders. And yes, by grip end, I mean the weighted bar ends--for some reason that's what they're called in the Yam parts catalogue. Clearance between the bar end and the rubber grip is fine, but upon examination the problem starts when the bar end makes contact with the tube that the rubber grip is wrapped around. So you guys may be right--I'll try sliding over the whole assembly and report back.
  5. Here's a head scratcher. OEM handle bar, OEM grips, OEM Grip end. But when I screw the grip end in far enough it compresses something and causes the throttle o stick. No sticking issues without the grip end, and this is the second grip end I've ordered so the sizing shouldn't be the issue. I could put it on loosely, but I don't like that as a longer term fix. Anyone ever experience this?
  6. For the record, I would absolutely race naked. (Not like that, you dirty dogs.) While we're still on thread hijack mode, can someone explain the use of the right-side-up forks? I'd have thought a Pike's Peak climb would require the increased strength of the upside down variety.
  7. Bahahaha, some excellent points, man-gina notwithstanding! My competition-minded ego doesn't want to admit it, but you're right about just jumping in after a certain point. More than one fast guy has told me he became so by chasing other faster guys. It's my pride wants to insists that I'm at least competitive when I get there, as I've been lapped once on track and that absolutely sucked. (And I knew the f*cker, which made it worse.) But hey, even if Tito Rabat doesn't score another point this season, he's still a former champion who's living the dream and could probably beat all of us on a stock 300 with one eye closed. Cause what I'm ultimately hearing you say is that it's all about getting out there and having fun. Thanks for the kick in the ass and the inside view. And yeah, nice bodywork!
  8. I'm not familiar with the club racing circuit on your side of the country. Hopefully someone else can chime in about that. This is the race build I mentioned, for your reference. This guy was going for a dedicated race bike, so some mods would be different for you if you want to keep it street legal. http://www.mnsportbikeriders.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=77573&st=0 We should have one of these here at FZ07.org (hint hint)
  9. Not a stupid question at all, but maybe I'm biased because I asked it too. ;-) I have similar racing plans (track days are awesome, aren't they?) and my gauge is a simple one. At the tracks I go to the club racers are the ones in the A group. When I'm fast enough to mix it up with them is when I plan to get my race license--because they're they people I'll be racing against. I didn't see what area you live in, but I've found it really helpful to start doing track days at tracks that I eventually plan to race at. I've come across more than one club racer there doing testing or prep, and they've been happy to share their experiences and insight. Someone has a FZ07 race build thread that details all the steps he took to modifying his bike. I'll see if I can find it and I'll post it here if I do. Congrats on getting bit by track bug. Now be prepared to break out your wallet...
  10. Great thread. Since sharing is caring, for closeout gear deals there's always motorcyclecloseouts.com . One of my all-time favorite helmets is on sale there now, and you just don't normally see brand new Shoei helmets for prices like these: http://www.motorcyclecloseouts.com/sport/motorcycle+helmets/shoei_rf-1100+helmet+-+hadron+2+-+size+lg
  11. Thanks a lot for the videos; I haven't found many "basics" suspension videos, and it's great to have someone go over the fundamentals. (I for one never actually thought about the kinetic energy being released as heat before, but it makes perfect sense.) A couple questions came up for me from the vids: in the first when he's talking about the high speed and the low speed adjusters--I don't quite follow how low speed compression impacts grip between the tire and the tarmac. Anyone with a shock with those adjusters speak on that further? Similarly, in the second video he mentions swapping out the knobbies on the Africa twin to sport tires and then says give it more damping because the tires have more grip. I understand raising the tail so the steering angle is sharper and the thus the bike is faster to turn. But I don't grasp how that is the same as increasing the damping. Any thoughts? Thanks again for starting this thread. Don't know Nitron but I will look into their stuff.

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