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About r4gnar

  • Birthday 05/06/1985

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  1. That's what I have now. I feel it can be improved. So just to be absolutely sure, you're saying I should add fuel from ~2000 all the way up? Thanks for all the tips. This is great!
  2. I tried exactly what you described when I had the sensor still on. I even had it at +15 in the 1250-4000 RPM range because that's where I hear the popping. Never noticed any difference, even when I went from 0 to +15 (and yes, I have the injectors enabled to take advantage of the 0% throttle position). I'll try with the sensor disconnected. I never thought about adding fuel outside the range, maybe that's why my results were dissapointing. Thank you!
  3. UPDATE: So, like I mentioned before, people from FTECU recommended removing the stock O2 sensor, so I did just that after flashing my ECU. I wanted a clean start to test this properly. I can confirm that a lot of jerkiness I was experiencing is now gone. Lost a tiny bit of power at low RPM but I guess that was to be expected when closed loop is replaced by open loop with richer mixtures, right? I've been riding for 3 days now and the experience is consistent. No self-corrections, no going back to pre-flash settings. I would really like to have the sensor in but the difference is too much to ignore. Riding without it makes me so much confident when doing low speed/rpm manouvers. Some other observations: The decel popping was slightly reduced, which I like a lot. The engine runs a little cooler, again, probably due to richer mixture. I will now report back to the guys at FTECU and repeat what I said here. I will ask them for more suggestions or other recommendations they might have. So far I'm happy with the outcome.
  4. Thanks! I thought it connects directly to where ECU is connected. I'll look into it. My throttle tube is stock.
  5. Here's an update for ya: I managed to get in touch with FTECU people. They offered to look at my map and they haven't found anything that would cause the problems I described. They did however offer a potential solution which is removing/disconnecting the stock O2 sensor. Now, I don't have a plug for the O2 bung and I don't know if the manufacturer of my exhaust offers one. Maybe these are universal? Anyway, for now I will have to disconnect the signal wire from the wire loom itself. I don't know how to do that yet, I'm planning to dig through the forum for answers and I'm open to any suggestions you may have. If removing the sensor doesn't help, I will report back my findings back to FTECU guys and we'll try something else. On a side note here, I can not say a bad word about people at FTECU. I'm happy how they are handling this, and the experience has been fine so far. More to come, hopefully in the near future.
  6. Yeah, my ECU code is there, although instead of EU location code mine has PHL (Philipnes?) I haven't tried any other. Thanks for letting me know, that's encouraging. I'll quadrupe triple doublecheck my O2 sensor while I wait for FTECU reply to make sure it sits right. I'm slowly losing my mind over this.
  7. RIght... so I tried opening a ticket on their webstite but got an error message saying the ticketing system is for authorized users only. I'm a registered user so that thing is definitely broken. They have an email adress for tickets listed on ther website but when I tried that, I got a bounce saying their system couldn't find an account associated with my email. That was my fault, because I've sent it from a different mailbox. So then I tried again using the adress I'm registered with and got another bounce: So that thing is clearly broken too. As a final effort I tried the other email they have, dedicated for sales. Didn't get a bounce yet, which is good. Or is it? I'm hoping they will forward it to their support people/team/robots/potatoes. Time wasted: 30 minutes Hair lost: 1337
  8. No, not yet. I tried riding using more RPM but that doesn't seem to change anything. I'm thinking about reaching out to FTECU people for advice. Another thing that came to mind is that most of the PCV maps on PC website are probably made by people from the USA. Maybe that setup simply doesn't work where I live. (EDIT: or doesn't work well with the European ECU configuration) More to come... I'll post updates when I have them.
  9. I find it hard to belive that FTECU would allow to use PCV maps and then not be able to cover all spots in the RPM range/Throttle position but your explanation does make a lot of sense. It definitely feels like that sometimes. Maybe I should upgrade to the auto-tune kit and be done with this nonesense. In FTECU applying a PCV map is a separate setting. Not sure how it works "under the hood" but loading PCV map doesn't change any other maps layout (at least I haven't noticed any changes but then again I'm not sure what I'm looking at here). I wish I knew how to tune this stuff *sigh*. I'll keep looking. Maybe I missed something obvious. I really don't want to spend more money to solve a problem I wouldn't have had if I had made different choices regarding my exhaust selection. I've been thinking recently to going back to stock exhaust. That way it's bad, but at least it's factory bad lol.
  10. I'm using the one for Akrapovic with snorkel removed. It's the closest match to my setup I think. Like I said, I run stock mapping with the PC fuel map on top. Haven't updated the engine timing map because I have 0 clue what to change. The PC map files have ignition timing inside but I'm not sure if this is applied by the FTECU when I pick the PC map.
  11. Gotcha. Well... I don't think I have that option without auto-tune kit. I'm gonna try using more RPM range next time. It did cross my mind it might be my riding because I tend to stay in low RPM more often then not. As for your question @norcal616, my ECU is pretty much OEM with the exception of fan temps and I have a PC map on top of that. I can feel the difference right after flashing, but it goes away completely after few rides. I wonder if disconnecting the sensor could stop the auto adjusting. Also, some people say that engine braking goes down 50% when the injectors are turned on decel. The biggest change in that regard was when I installed the aftermarket exhaust. Haven't noticed any dramatic changes in engine braking after fiddling with the injectors setting in FTECU. The reason I know "something" works is because I successfully adjusted the fan temps. Is it possible that some ecu's are more responsive to tuning? I was suprised to see my ECU is PHL which I assume is the Philippines region instead of EU.
  12. I don't have the auto-tune kit. Also, not sure what you mean by trim allowance - haven't seen that setting anywhere in FTECU software. Can you please elaborate on that? @norcal616
  13. Friends, I need your help because I'm at a point of ultimate frustration with this and my limited knowlege isn't helping either. My setup: 2016 MT-07 (I'm in EU) SC Project Conic exhaust DNA air filter (without the lid, I have the factory snorkel instead) FTecu FlashTune side harness The problem: Everything is connected and the software works fine. The thing is that I find myself reflashing the damn ECU every week or so because it keeps self correcting back to the shitty state. Normally the first ride after the flash is OK but then what happens is that the throttle gets progressively more snatchy, jerky etc. It pretty much selft corrects to a point where I feel absolutely no difference between stock settings and flashed settings. I use the stock base mapping (I tried unrestricted but after reading more about it beeing blanket changed and not tested and more suited for track riding I switched to stock, however I had the same issue with unrestricted mapping) with a PowerCommander fuel map. I'm not comfortable with changing anything but the PC map, fan temps and Decel cut. I'm not entirely sure if the decel cut setting does anything really but like I said, first ride after flashing is noticably smoother. So... my questions are: How do I make the settings persist? I know ECU adjusts with time but the change is pretty drastic in my case and makes me regret even buying the harness in the first place. I'd like to lower the amount of exhaust popping, but editing the PowerCommander mapping doesn't seem to have any effect. Editing the fueling in 0 throttle posittion (the first column) with the injectors turned on on decel. I know every exhaust is different and it might not be possible to get rid of the pop but the fact I tried so many different setting and different PC maps to no effect is frustrating. Is there something else I could try to combat this? Thanks!
  14. Ordered new wilbers springs, forks and the fork bushing kit from All Balls Racing. I'll leave the lower triple situation to the bike shop because, believe it or not, that might actually save me money. Poland is weird like that sometimes ¯\\_(ツ)_/¯ Thank you all, you have made this whole experience so much less frustrating and painfull.
  15. While I know what you're talking about I don't think that's a good idea. Motorcycle mirrors tend to be pretty small and for that to work the blind spot stick-on (I'm not sure if that's how you call them) has to either be really small (because you would still want to use the normal part of the mirror), in which case it's usefulness is questionable at best, or the mirrors have to be bigger and that will limit your ability to lane split. Not to mention it would probably look awful too There are many mirror options for our bikes, you will finde something that works for sure. My philosophy in this regard is that you want to have a part that does one job really good instead of a part that does two jobs with mixed results and I'm afraid that could be the case with blind spot mirrors. On top of that you should be shoulder checking a lot more than in a car for obvious reasons. Remember that it's allways the biker who will suffer more severe consequences regardles of who made a mistake on the road. Then again I might be wrong, I've never seen them on a bike so I go with my gut feeling about this rather than actual experience.

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