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noodles last won the day on April 24

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About noodles

  • Birthday 08/20/1991

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  1. $3.30 - $3.70/US gal for 92-93 octane w/ etOH in the Philadelphia area
  2. This is one helluva thread, and yes I did read the whole thing... So the answers I gleaned from 18 pages are conflicting: Order the 38-6096 kit and use those fork bushings - but do any of the other kit's contents apply to the FZ07's forks? Or do I have to order 2 kits (one 38-6096 and one 38-6095 for the snap rings etc) Or order the OEM 'equivalents' of 4FM-23171-40-00 or 3VD-23135-10-00 ? And then there are dissenting opinions that the OE bushing is fine but the legs are manufactured incorrectly or the OE bushings are made of inferior material, either of which leads to the excessive wear. So then should I just order the Allballs FZ07 bushing kit because their bushings are "better quality"? Or is the size still the real issue here. My bike has 22,000 miles on it and I want to put in the Bitubo JBH this winter while it's laid up anyway. What do I make of this thread?? Order one 38-6096 and one 56-129 to replace the seals?? And assuming I want to DIY this, I need a seal driver (43mm I think?), a bunch of socket extensions, that square damper rod holder thing, and an impact gun to remove the gorilla-tight bolt?
  3. Anyone seen front/rear brake caliper rebuild kits that include pistons? I can't find any replacement pistons other than OEM and they are $20 each which is madness. Part# 4SV-25802-10-00 and it doesn't include seals or new pins - and it's per caliper not per bike. Likewise, it would be nice to find a clutch pack replacement kit that includes the springs rather than buying plates "each" - any part numbers?? Thanks !
  4. noodles

    Idle speed control

    Now I know what the ISC actually does - thanks!
  5. noodles

    Idle speed control

    So a shop tried to clean the intake and, I'm guessing, damaged the ISC. You could buy it individually for $100, and hope that fixes it, and hope the shop that broke it can reassemble it without breaking it again, or you can buy a whole new assembly. New says $300, I'm betting a used throttle body assembly is cheaper on fleabay from a parted out bike. As you can see, there are very specific instructions for what to clean and what not to clean. I'm guessing they used a solvent they shouldn't have, or tried to clean the intake in situ without removing the whole intake and disassembling it so that they did not get cleaning agent on surfaces that should not be cleaned. I would never disassemble the intake myself for fear of breaking it, and I'm unsure why you'd ever clean it unless you ran into some problem with the engine you believed was due to the intake.
  6. looks a lot like the Givi screen I have, which is like $120, except that uses/replaces the bolts that hold on the top of the headlamp assembly and the turn signals - really easy, works well so i would expect the same w/ this ..
  7. noodles

    How to: Replace Sena 10c battery

    @Mr.Puss I use mine through winter so the cold kills the battery w/ increased internal resistance - I think it might wear the battery more as well. I'm lucky if it can record for 45 minutes before turning off the camera for me. Now with my first ride to work after replacing the battery, the gauge was still full on my smartphone's display of the device's battery status.
  8. A neat looking stainless steel magnetic drain plug with the magnet inside the bolt rather than protruding out of the distal threads. Nifty little piece and more importantly it should look less crappy what with corrosion resistance. https://www.amazon.com/Mag-Plug-Magnetic-Drain-Filter/dp/B01NANQIMI
  9. What: The Sena 10c is an integrated Bluetooth communication platform and video recording device. One of its primary shortcomings is battery life, which will decrease with age. Replacing the Sena 10c's internal battery, both to replace a worn battery that no longer holds a sufficient charge, and to increase the battery capacity from the original equipment. This procedure should apply to other Sena models, with differences for the battery size but not voltage, and the exact details of getting it apart. The basic procedure is to disassemble the unit, cut the old battery off, solder in a new battery using the existing modular wiring, and put it all back together. I have to give some credit to this procedure for the Sena SMH10 as I used it as a guideline. I did contact Sena's support to verify voltage, size, and capacity of the original battery, too. Why: Over time the Sena 10c will record for less and less time before depleting its battery. Since it cost maybe $300 and I use it every day for my commute, this was a pretty big priority to replace rather than buy a whole new unit. Tools and supplies: 3.7v lithium ion battery 9.0mm x 40 mm x 30 mm (903040) or smaller (~$10) The battery "code" is simply the dimensions where the first 2 digits are the thickness with decimal removed, and L x W in mm The original battery is "903242", 3.7v, 1000mAh The replacement I used was 903040, 3.7v, 1200mAh - a small increase in capacity Precision Torx drivers - very small Torx bit, maybe T7 ? Precision Philips head driver Plastic/nylon spudger Nitrile or vinyl gloves (recommended but not required) Tweezers Soldering iron Wire cutter/stripper Small heat shrink or electrical tape Double sided tape (recommended but not required) Procedure Ground yourself and remove your SD card before starting! Touch something metal and avoid sources of static electricity like carpets. Use vinyl or nitrile gloves to eliminate fingerprints damaging any components. The Sena 10c comes apart in a clamshell fashion. Unfasten the Torx screws on the backside of the device. These are small delicate screws that should not require a lot of torque - don't strip the heads or you'll have a bad time. Once the screws are out, use the spudger to gently pry the device apart, starting in one section and slowly working the plastic apart going around the device. There is a water resistant gasket surface all around the clamshell's seam, don't bugger it! Only pry on the plastic surfaces, not the rubber! If you pry one area too far you might damage the finish or crack the shell. Be gentle and gradual with prying it apart. The jog dial fits into a splined metal shaft beneath it and will be the primary source of resistance but it is an interference fit only so it will come apart with gentle persuasion. Red marks Phillips screws. Only 1 is visible while all the boards are attached, the other 2 are marked with arrows and are underneath the boards and attach a third board that has the jog dial and the battery's input plug. Yellow marks the modular connections between the 2 sandwiched circuit boards Blue marks the connection between the sandwiched boards and the board with he jog dial Purple marks the camera's delicate data ribbon The battery is underneath all of the circuit boards attached to the plastic shell that it is all attached to. To get to it we will need to remove all the circuit boards and lift them out of the way. Remove the retaining screw, and use the spudger to pry apart the boards at the blue square's area where they attach to the jog dial's board. The boards are attached to the device via a red and blue soldered wire that supplies power to the camera, and via the camera's data ribbon. You don't necessarily have to remove the data cable and you can't remove the red and black wires, so peel the boards up and move them out of the way to gently rest on the table without stretching or kinking the cable and wire. The first circuit board you see is connected to another board beneath it like a sandwich using 2 delicate modular plugs. You can pry them apart with the spudger in an area that has no circuitry - I suggest near the USB port if you find this necessary. The camera attaches to the board by a delicate ribbon cable. Do not kink or bend this, be very gentle handling it! If you need to remove it to fit your battery (I did but you may not if yours fits better), flip up the retaining clip and then gently pull it away from the pins, not straight up! The battery lives in the gray square and is attached to the plastic via a piece of double stick tape. Use the spudger to gently pry the battery from the backing. Don't puncture it! Then use a small pick tool to ease out the modular plug (yellow box) a bit at a time until it hits the plastic shell, then undo the retaining screws (red boxes) for the jog dial board and remove it so you can unplug the battery. Cut the wires from the old battery leaving as much of the original wire on the plug's side as possible. Twist the wires together, and solder. If you need a soldering tutorial, check youtube. Now place the battery in the cavity where the original battery was, orienting where the wires lead to the modular plug. If you run them at the top where the camera button is, keep in mind that the blue squares show where that button will rest when everything is assembled, so don't park the wires too close to that area. Plug the newly soldered wires back into the jog dial board, refasten the board with 2 screws, and make sure the battery is in the little box cut out of the shell. Then carefully put the sandwiched boards back on top of the jog dial, and be sure the modular connectors for both the jog dial to the sandwiched boards, and the 2 sandwiched boards themselves, are all attached. That's 3 connections altogether. Then refasten the last retaining screw and reattach the ribbon cable if you had to remove it. Slide the ribbon back into the slot, don't try to press it! Then lock the ribbon in place again with the locking tab. Power on the unit before you button it all back up and be sure the LED shines like it would if it was all reassembled. Turn it off before reassembling the front shell. If the shell won't lower properly, then you may have replaced the retaining screw(s) (2 on jog dial board, 1 on top of sandwiched boards marked in red) in one of the shell's holes instead of the internal hole. Once reassembled, charge the new battery to 100% before use. Keep an eye on the charging LED and put the unit in a fire resistant area if you're nervous. Dispose of the old battery responsibly!
  10. noodles

    Soft front brake feel

    That's part of the reason I started the thread asking if a rebuild of the master or the calipers was necessary at this bike's age.. Itching to replace the indirect routing and rubber lines with 2 discrete steel braided lines with new, prettier banjo bolts! Not sure what it's based on but I use it for slide pins and the back of the pads when installing new.
  11. noodles

    Soft front brake feel

    Yeah I do the traditional bleed with a syringe on the end of my tubing rather than a bottle, it's easier.. I did try this reverse bleeding procedure and it kind of worked but I realized starting at the brake lever side caliper, doing this is would push any air into the loop over top of the fender... Then how do I get it to the other caliper? Instead, I tried raising the caliper and tapping the line before bleeding it to remove trapped air. I managed to get maybe 10 ml out. Nah I don't put slick stuff anywhere near the brakes, and I do have HH pads but I bedded them in properly thousands of miles ago according to instructions. It was just the brake lever feel not the stopping power that was the issue. Thanks though!
  12. noodles

    Soft front brake feel

    Brilliant, this did the trick! The lever is still a little soft but much, much improved. I think I'll try the zip tie thing over night. Thank you!!! I think I can put off a master rebuild until later after all... I thought maybe having it at the end of the maintenance chart was a little much I just use Brakleen, non chlorinated, super quick dry... Drives water out from bores and evaporates quickly. I was told it's safe for brake components but not to get it on the tires... I guess I can't be sure but I've used it all along. So what about Sil-Glyde on the pistons? I read somewhere it helps prevent corrosion but sounds like it might just collect dirt and muck up the bores. I leave them dry as it is but anything to help prevent corrosion would be great
  13. https://www.motorcyclistonline.com/continental-contiroad-attack-3-motocycle-tire-review https://www.revzilla.com/common-tread/dunlop-sportmax-roadsmart-iii-tire-review I read these 2 articles when i went to buy new tires... changed from Angel GT to the ContiRoad Attack 3. Single compound is nice, they feel more planted than the Angel GT's but it's all so subjective who knows. They were cheaper than the Michelin PR4's and the 5's weren't out at the time. I like the tread pattern too, I think they look pretty good. It's been about 3,000 miles with very little wear and only slight flattening in the center... I think they'll last longer than the Angel GT set.
  14. noodles

    Soft front brake feel

    1. Nope 2. Gently, yes. The surface of the pistons had light corrosion on them. They don't leak fluid at the moment and never had to my knowledge. 3. Slowly pressed them out by pumping the lever lightly to get them out of the bore until I could see shiny piston so I could clean the corrosion with a soft tooth brush, mild soap and water, and final spray with brake cleaner before pressing piston back into bore and moving onto next piston. I did it last year in the spring after flushing brake fluid, so I did it again this year once winter "ended". Followed this video: Yeah I wasn't sure if what I was describing was correctly termed "brake fade" - I don't brake aggressively very often so I know it's not from hot brakes... and it's good to read I shouldn't need to rebuild then. Awful expensive to do that every 2 years if the seals kits cost that much
  15. My bike is a 2016, I have flushed the brake fluid each year, last done about 2 weeks ago. The problem: Now my front lever feels squishy - the machine still stops well, but the lever continues to the bar a bit more after the bite of the brakes. I no longer have a solid feel at the lever. My questions are: Has anyone found a good caliper rebuild kit? Or even felt the need to rebuild their calipers yet? Should I be lubing the pistons with brake lube from the dust seal to the edge where they meet the pad's backing? I'll bleed the brakes again but I doubt that's the problem. Should lube the pivot points too but that wouldn't cause what I'm guessing is called "brake fade" even at low speed. The bike's 2 years old, and wouldn't you know it, the manual recommends to replace the master cylinder internals AND the caliper internals every 2 years. Since I clean my brake pistons off twice a year with a toothbrush and brake cleaner I'm hoping to avoid a caliper rebuild in favor of a master cylinder rebuild... But then if I have to do that I may as well replace the front lines with steel braided, right? And if I do that, I may as well rebuild the calipers... eBay has a few sellers for $25 per caliper which seems kind of expensive - the OEM parts sites are even worse, the diagrams look like they are selling a seals kit per piston. For the pistons themselves, I can only find them from the OEM sites for like $70 a piece which is insane. The master cylinder rebuild kit is only $15 from the OEM sites though. So $15 for the master kit, $25 x 2 for the calipers, and $100 for the steel lines, all plus shipping. Trying not to spend another $200 on my bike if I can help it. Any thoughts?? I'll post how-tos for the things I wrote above!

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