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howworkclutch

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About howworkclutch

  • Birthday 01/15/1970

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  • Location
    Carolina
  • Website
    http://Www.realultimatepower.net

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  1. howworkclutch

    The Official Carolina Chapter!

    If the weather isn't crap: Switchback Creek in Shady Valley, TN this weekend [6-30-17 thu 7-2-17]. Camping is like $15/night. Its not an "event" just myself and a few friends from around the south-east. Riding up there is amazing. We go a few times a year. We spend our days riding the mountains and nights enjoying cold beer and good times around a campfire.
  2. howworkclutch

    Another FZ-07R is on the way.

    Mind if i ask: what is the going rate for a wreck in similar condition?
  3. howworkclutch

    Drag strip launching?

    2nd gear launches are no good. use 1st. the clutch is a wear item. main bearings and connecting rods are not. low 12's possible. never gonna see high 11s without a miracle above 8k rpm. how i do it: go around the burnout box. its pointless. begin stage with toe under shifter in 1st. rev to 5kish. hold. ease clutch to just-ready-to-go, final stage. lean over front. dump and rev. or rev and dump? meh. do it till it works. it becomes second nature after a few passes. clutchless upshifts. if you have wheelie problems the rear suspension is too hard. it should squat during launch.
  4. howworkclutch

    Ohlins NIX-22 system

    just circling back around after having the nix22 and ohlins rear shock for awhile... i feel i got good value for my money. if i wanted more performance i'd go buy a 675r the stock suspension was absolutely lousy for me. i felt like i was riding around on a stiff marshmallow. one of those dried up ones that you find in multicolored breakfast cereal. it was hard until it wasnt and then it was just too soft. i hated the stock suspension. the ohlins stuff rides real nice on NC's craptastic road surfaces. because of the heat and rolling hills, we have a lot of rippled road surface (road get soft in the heat. heavy truck applies break on downhill. trucks suspension oscillates causing indentations in asphalt. the next truck does the same. rinse. repeat.) harsh bumps mid-curve are no big deal. the bike seems planted. you can find a grove in a corner and ride it drama-free. i dont push the envelope because i'm getting old but the bike rides so much better that i'm finding myself carrying more corner speed naturally. my left toe touched asphalt yesterday: totally surprised me because i wasn't trying to go fast. the more i ride it the less i think about my speed. my weight was specified when i ordered. the vendor chose the springs for me. whatever they sent works. i would make this purchase again. honestly i wish my gal would get ride of that damned ducati moneypit and adopt an new fz07 so i can actually make this purchase again.
  5. Problem: After a relatively harsh whack in a pothole, the front suspension binds and no longer sags. While stationary, have a friend observe suspension movement as you put weight on one foot peg. If the back shock compresses freely but the front doesn't you have binding. Solution: Retorque the front-end in specific sequence. Note: I don't have a service manual. I don't know what yamaha says to do. This comes from old-skool experience. Requirements: Rear stand and tools. A brand new garbage bag. The clear thick yard-waste bags are perfect. A buddy is helpful. Steps: Unfold the garbage bag and refold it in some way that makes sense. Place it on the floor and push the motorcycles front wheel on the garbage back. You should be able to turn the bars left/right without any drag. The two layers of plastic act like a lubricated bushing allowing the tire to freely twist on the floor. Put the bike on the rear stand. Ensure the top yoke pinch bolts are properly torqued (yoke = triple tree). Turn the bars to one side and loosen the steering stem pinch bolt (it is on the opposite side of the top yoke pinch bolts). Loosen the brake caliper mount bolts. Loosen the axle pinch bolt. Loosen the axle. Loosen the lower yoke pinch bolts. Stop. Do not loosen the top yoke pinch bolts. They are holding your bike up. Check that each bolt is tightened by hand. 1. Standing in front of the bike, looking rearward, and using a towel or gloves to protect the palms of your hands, place your palms on the top of the fork tubes and bounce the bike a few times. 2. Tighten lower yoke pinch bolts 1/4 turn. 3. Tighten the caliper mount bolts 1/4 turn. 4. Tighten axle 1/4 turn. Repeat the last four steps until you've reached torque specs for each fastener. Tighten the axle pinch bolt to spec. Turn the bars and tighten the steering stem pinch bolt to spec. One last time, check that the front suspension moves freely. If all is well, pull the bike off the stand and go for a ride (be careful. the plastic garbage bag is still under your front tire and its very slippery). Final inspection: If the suspension is working again you're good to go, but you may find that the front wheel is pointing left or right. As weird as it sounds, it just happens sometimes. If you pull the bike up to a telephone pole or other immovable object, you can push the wheel back into alignment by using the bars for leverage.
  6. cursed it. kicked it. considered burning it. built an impromptu over-head lift. stood the damned bike back up. reinstalled the fork tubes. messaged the whole @#$%ing front end until the binding went away. went for a ride. adjusted cartridges. went for another ride. put it on the paddock stand. adjusted rear wheel alignment 9000000 times. adjusted bars. adjusted levers. called it a pos and gave up for the day.
  7. about 200 in full gear. i mostly bomb back-roads of questionable quality.
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