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mossrider last won the day on July 5

mossrider had the most liked content!

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About mossrider

  • Birthday 07/19/1964

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  1. mossrider

    Riding gear, jacket, helmet, vests

    I've ordered from them and had good luck in the past. I live in northern Minnesota, a suburb of Canada.
  2. mossrider


    Or, https://www.gillestooling.com/produkte/kettenspanner-und-zubehoer/
  3. mossrider


  4. Once in my life, I lost control...Does this make me a bad person? Hail Mary, full of.....
  5. Day 1, 0.0 miles 62 miles later
  6. If I understand your questions correctly, in very simple terms; 1. They need that info to assemble a shock to suit your stated use. Smooth, compliant ride for street use or a more controlled, firmer action for track use. They will install a spring with the correct spring rate for your weight. They will valve it, if applicable, to achieve the desired performance characteristics. 2. You set your 'sag', the amount the bike's rear end settles with you on it, so the suspension is able to respond to road irregularities in both directions. To keep the ride smooth, safe and controlled (tire on the ground) the wheel needs to be able to both fall into holes as well as rise over bumps. If there was no sag it would skip/slam into every little dip in the road making the ride horrible and possibly causing the tire to lose contact with the ground (lose traction=bad). If you get a properly sprung shock there is nothing more 'to do about it' other than install it correctly and fine tune your sag number. That's why they need your weight and intended use. For a simple starting point on the street try getting around 1.75 inches of rear end droop when you sit on the bike. This is measured from full up position (shock topped out, pulled full upward, with no weight on bike) to its compressed position with you on it. Too little sag can make the bike feel skittish and will feel like getting kicked hard in the arse when traveling a rough road, assuming the correctly valved and sprung shock is installed. Too much sag and the bike can handle poorly, wallow, respond slowly to inputs and lack enough remaining travel to soak up bumps causing a loss of traction like a kicking horse. We could go on for ever here but this is a start for you.
  7. mossrider

    Off- Season maintenance?

    Alas, I'll not be at Blackhawk, we're getting ready for Pittsburgh then BIR the following weekend. Sorry. That Ohlins will be fine every other year. They take indifference better than most other shocks do. My JRI is a little supermodel and seems to need more attention and money than avg, lol.
  8. After replacing what oil I could with forks in place, I spooged the tube slowly a couple strokes before buttoning it up then forcefully a couple times before riding off to make sure nothing binds or bonks. This will also serve to prime the dampers as you say. Of course the fluid is a mix of old and new, 10 and 20wt what ever but for day to day use it won't matter and you can do another fluid change whenever you want, it's virtually free in this fashion to keep fresh fluid in them. As for emul's. I've no first hand experience with the ddc's but they appear to be of similar construction and function to those I do have experience with, half dozen sets of Gold Valves and several sets of Chinese knock offs. Pick your favorite and go with it. I know the GV's are top notch, the knock offs were ok, I hear good things about the ddc's. Of course the forks need to come off for installation and modification. Get help here if you've never pulled a fork apart unless you are patient and capable with hand tools. The engine braking. Apapt to it or get used to it. A flash will help but costs money. A slipper clutch virtually eliminates it but costs big money. I learned to rev match and delay downshifts, or in other words adapted to it. Costs nothing. The front end dive gets much better with a fork upgrade. Much of the diving problem is softly sprung and under damped rear shock allowing the rear to rise and over pitch on the brakes. Upgrading the shock finishes the fix, as it were. Just understand that cheap means good enough and top shelf costs money.
  9. mossrider

    Red Rider

    Mmm, red. Nothin makes a lady hotter.
  10. Having owned and tried to maintain and ride as many as 15 clunker bikes at one time I used to cut some corners at times to save time and money. I have put springs in forks after syphoning off as much fluid as possible and replacing it with the same amount of whatever fluid I wanted to run. This can be done with the forks in place generally. Disclaimer: While not ideal it works. I know there are better ways and I'm not endorsing not using professional assistance or established practices but you asked. P.S. I'd take the forks off and do emulators too and get rid of the damn toilet paper rolls on the fork tubes. Just sayin. ☺
  11. mossrider

    Off- Season maintenance?

    I wouldn't worry about the valve clearance yet. Even with the mods you have unless you have added cams it is unlikely you're running into the rev limiter very often if ever so you're not taxing the motor much. We checked my clearances when we decked the head and degreed the cams at around 1600 race miles. Still dead nuts on with no signs of wear or any movement. I would replace the brake fluid, coolant and disassemble and clean the suspension, linkages, swingarm pivot etc. If you're running the original chain and sprockets I would just about bet close inspection shows they're about shagged too. I would also disassemble and clean the brake calipers with simple green to restore their like new feel. Brake cleaner and scotchbrite pads on the rotors wouldn't hurt either. Check, clean and or replace the steering head bearings if you have time and the where with all too. Excepting a few bucks for the chain and sprockets this stuff is all cheap, fun and easy to putz with in garage with a couple of beers and the game on. Your results may vary. Please check local laws before purchase Some assembly required Battery's not included
  12. mossrider

    Brake swap

    My $.02 so it means nothing, but: Anything is possible but this would be inordinately difficult for little or no real benefit. The calipers on an 09 are radially mounted compared to an 07 making a direct swap impossible. One would need to do an inordinate amount of fab work/changes to forks and wheels/axels/spacers etc to do it. They are essentially the same calipers anyway. They are the same spec, opposed 4 piston calipers with the only significant difference being mounting method as previously mentioned. The 09's rotors are marginally larger diameter as well. The brakes on my 07 have never been my limiting factor on the racetrack. If you want or need better brakes I'd just upgrade the pads and/or lines as you mentioned and call it good. I can't imagine needing more brakes on these biakes with the speeds they are capable of. To each his own tho. Be safe, Dave
  13. mossrider

    Body Position/Bike Setup

    Hard to tell a whole lot from a couple pics but; looks like You've got a travel indicator on your fork and you're using 2/3ish so that's good, means you're having a heck of a good time and done something to the boingers. Also looks like your suspension is balanced front to rear. You look to be in correct position for the speed it appears you're moving, i.e. chin over inside hand. And it appears you have a good intense focus and are relaxed on the controls. If you're having fun and picking up speed it'll soon be time for a track class of some sort to keep you progressing. Also try to find a local track guy to help teach you how to read tires. This way you'll understand what's going on with your suspension and have more track presence to go faster, safer and have more fun. That's the $.60 tour, it would take volumes but you get the idea. A good book or 2 also wouldn't hurt. Google is your friend here. And please support the local vendors and track photographers, it's how they make a living and how we ensure our hobbies future and preserve our memories. Good on you! Blue Line Racing Dave
  14. mossrider

    MT07 rebuild/custom project


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