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maz20

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About maz20

  • Birthday 07/10/1988
  1. Ahh with gear I'm a little heavier at 100 kg
  2. I'm looking to soften up the rear suspension on the FZ-07. I swapped out the stock rear shock with an Ohlins YA-419, which comes with a 115N/mm spring. It still feels rather stiff (even after revalving to remove some of the compression damping), so I'm considering getting a lighter spring. Ohlins carries a wide range of springs for this rear shock, all of which come at 170mm free length but vary all the way from 40-230N/mm (usually around 5N/mm increments). From basic calculations, I can easily keep proper static sag even with their 65 N/mm spring, but the suspension dealer I was talking about near my area said to not go below 95N/mm as that would require "too much preload". But, whereas my 115N/mm was taking 41% of available preload, the 65 N/mm would just take 87.5% of available preload adjustment (for proper rear static sag). For reference, 95N/mm would take up 53% of the maximum preload adjustment distance (for proper rear static sag). So, what exactly does it mean for a shock spring to take "too much preload"? Is that just something related to the "spring" itself, or am I just not supposed to go past some preload distance on the preload adjuster??? : / I generally just ride around mostly in the city (crappy roads ton of bumps and potholes), and am thinking of trying out the 75N/mm spring. If anything, I'd still get to keep my 115N/mm spring if the 75N/mm turns out too soft (or, likewise, I could purchase afterwards the dealer-recommended 95N/mm, right between 75 and 115!)
  3. Mostly just in case I botch the operation of putting on the new chain, or it turns out I need more than the stock number of 108 links on the new/un-stretched chain to fit my custom 15/45 gearing setup (had this setup for a while now). I'm only about 3-4 bars from minimum wheelbase even with my current chain anyway (~19k miles original chain)
  4. Ahh i see, I was wondering if there was anything "extra" that actually needs to be done (e.g., like some extra part taken out) for that procedure but is "hidden" or not mentioned in the service manual. Haven't taken my bike apart anywhere that far yet, compared that winterization! : )
  5. I know about that, I'm just referring to the service manual's suggested procedure involving pushing the rear axle forward and sliding out one of the swingarm links. Odd procedure : ) but has anyone done it? No breaking the chain!
  6. The FZ-07 service manual suggests it is possible to "take off" the entire chain, and shows a little procedure how to do it. But has anyone done it so far? Is it actually possible? (No chain breaker tools lol)
  7. By the way, even if the rear travel does get extended too much, isn't it just a simple matter of lowering the preload for the desirable ride height anyway?
  8. Perhaps not a very precise method, but every now and then when I adjust my chain I'll have someone else sit on the bike afterwards while I check the "loaded" chain slack. Granted, it's a bit crude in that I probably don't get the "perfect" sprockets/pivot alignment for maximum chain tension, but the chain does feel tighter nonetheless. It still has a bit of slack at this point as well (even unloaded, my chain is almost always at the 'looser' end (if not more than!) of the manual's slack range anyway). As far as "maximum" rear travel goes, it looks like that will depend on the shape on the shock. As the chassis gets lifted by a longer shock, the shock itself will move closer to the bottom of the upper rear shock linkage (the non-dog-bone part, forgot what it's called). However "wide" the shock itself is (well, more precisely the "spring" around the shock!), will determine how much travel it will be able to add --- that is, before it starts bumping into the unloaded bike's upper shock linkage.
  9. Ahh i see, so it's not as if rear travel actually affects chain tension in any way --- it just affects our "perception" of chain slack whenever we actually do need to adjust the chain. So, it's not like putting in a longer shock actually requires a chain adjustment, but the next time I do have to adjust my chain (for whatever reason), I should keep in mind that having a longer shock will affect my measurements/perception and may want to go with a bit more slack than otherwise.
  10. A slightly longer shock with a slightly longer stroke would do what you want. A 1/4" longer shock might give a 1/2" more travel, not sure. But I do know a 3/16" shorter dog bone link adds 5/8" of height to the bike, but not sure if the motion ratio is the same for the shock. Anyways, we know there is room to go about 1 inch higher in rear axle height because many have changed their suspension link. So, increasing rear height by 1 inch by installing a longer shock with more travel would work fine. Watch your chain tension throughout the travel of the suspension so it does not bind up. The chain can get tighter at certain parts of the suspension travel. That can be checked with the shock off and moving the suspension through it's travels. Why would the chain bind up with increased travel? Would there be something in the way? AFAIK maximum chain stretch (at least when standing still!) is whenever the swingarm joint sits right between the sprockets (i.e., swingarm joint and sprocket centers are all on the same line). And I'm sure that position still happens even with the stock shock as well, so it doesn't seem like increasing travel should affect anything there..
  11. I'd like to upgrade the rear shock for a plusher ride (I commute in city traffic on it almost daily), and it seems with a new shock I can also gain some more travel as well. I'm 6'2" (~32" inseam), and don't mind having a higher seat heat (not to mention, a more "forward-leaning" posture might be nicer too!). But, is there a "maximum" amount of travel I can increase to? (Before, that is, bumping into some mechanical limitation!)
  12. maz20

    How are forks held in place?

    There is tape in the fork clamps?
  13. maz20

    How are forks held in place?

    Ahh i see now, there is both an "upper" and another "lower" triple clamp on the FZ-07, with what looks like the steering bearing in the middle. Then yes, indeed there are a total of four pinch clamps, two per fork. Still, I am quite surprised that forks still manage to stay in place for several thousands of miles and bumps without moving upwards into the handlebar area. So it really is just plain, sliding metal-to-metal friction-clamp contact that holds the entire front-end from sliding into the handlebars?
  14. maz20

    How are forks held in place?

    Well, I meant connecting whole front forks/front wheel assembly to the rest of the bike -- and that seems to be done only by just one pinch bolt per fork on the triple clamp. The "lower" clamps only connect that front forks/front wheel assembly just to itself, nothing else.
  15. Is it really all completely due to that tiny little pinch bolt in the triple clamp?? If so, then I'm quite surprised how the forks even manage to stay in place after several thousands of miles and bumps without ever budging up into the handlebars or rider. Or, is there something else keeping them fixed (i mean from moving up and down) besides metal-to-metal (or plastic cover) contact?
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