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About kjata

  • Birthday 03/27/1989

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  1. Well we're going to look into all of that. I want 2WDW to be my second to last resort or buying a new ECU as my final resort. Before the topic gets side tracked with possible solutions, I just want to know how can I flash the ECU on my own and start over. Like what cables / box / harnesses is needed.
  2. The problem likely rests inside my power commander, but still my tech wants to take a peak at the configuration in the ECU. I'm noticing that the bike runs erratically and suddenly differently. Like for example, after the flash the bike was running smooth for a year or so. All of a sudden, the bike is almost like stock again. With very strict engine braking. We had a custom map inside the power commander which resolved a lot of issues, until one day I noticed a garbling exhaust sound and the bike almost was very hesitant to move when applying throttle. This consistently happened in 2nd and 3rd around 5k rpms. Took it to my tech and he looked at the PCV, "dude did you tamper with your map? Half of it is gone, all of the values I adjusted are zeroed out." Slapped together a quick map and that problem disappeared. Or so I thought. Now it happens around 3k rpms when shifting TO 2nd. Infact, applying throttle right after shifting almost feels delayed. And thus because there is a second where the bike doesn't pull, when it does register throttle is being applied, you get a nice jerk forward. This used to be smooth as butter. Perhaps the map disappeared again? Tech states that he notices that my TPS is constantly outside of spec voltage and that a lot of times it seems to have a mind of its own changes values constantly. As if someone is rolling on and off, despite no one touching it. Sometimes the bike just flat out stalls - In neutral. I had a rough idle problem before somewhere on the forum, but we corrected it with tweaking the map and using dynojet auto tune to fix the problem on the fly. Bike is a complete mess. Part of me is just thinking of getting a new ECU and starting over.
  3. I had my bike flashed at the dealership and from my understanding, they use Woolich Racing software to do so. To do it, you need to spend $100 for the bin file. Since then, I've been having a slew of problems with my bike and my dealership and I had more or less a falling out. I found another reliable technician who works out of his home and he thinks that the ECU flash is causing some of my problems. Regardless if it is or not, he wants to take a look at what configurations the dealership has made. We know that Woolich sells some cables / harnesses to DIY, but my question is, what do I need to buy and where do I buy it? I know I need some cables and my tech thinks I need a Denso box. I'll likely have to buy the stock bin file again and my tech already has an account with Woolich as well as the software that would be needed. Now second question: Since the ECU has already been flashed with woolich, would I be able to send it to say.. 2WDW to flash it a second time using different software to correct any problems that I think I might be having? How many times can an ECU be reflashed? Infinitely?
  4. How do you attach this to the tail of the bike? Do you need to buy a separate rack or does it come with straps not pictured that go underneath the passenger seat or something?
  5. EZPASS Mount This item is advertised as an EZ Pass mount for "cruisers" and can fit bars that are 1" to 1 1/4", but I'm not sure if this will fit around the bars. Could anyone confirm the size of the handlebars? I did some quick googling and I couldn't find it, but I did find that the FZ09 is 1 to 1/8 but I would think the FZ07 & and 9 would be similar. Better safe than sorry.
  6. kjata

    Holy Shoei!!!

    I strongly advise against buying used helmets. I say this because I care, not to be a snob. You want the helmet to be at max protection capacity. I toss helmets after three years. Period. It may have been dropped and the internals could be broke down or damaged. Please, at least go to my thread titled "closeout pricing on helmets jackets and boots", located in general discussions board. In there is links to retailers closeout pricing pages and there are new helmets as low as $65 and some $600 helmets on super closeout pricing as well. Good gear is so important. If you get in a wreck, that split second as you are flying thru the air, you want to be wearing good fresh gear. Also, for good karma, don't sell used helmets either. Just throw em out and you may save someone's life or brain. Gear is expensive, I'm often wearing over $1000 in gear while riding but it's cheaper than neuro surgery or worse, a funeral. Yeah, I'll see what I'm going to do. I really do like the helmet. I'd prefer not to eat the loss, but I guess we'll see. My birthday is coming up the 27th of this month and I already know I'm going to get the AVG sport willow perforated leather pants, and I'm going to ATTEMPT to buy some sidi race boots. I would be fully protected with those additions as I have some nice gloves and a leather jacket. It's just the helmet's manufacturing date that's bothering me.
  7. kjata

    Holy Shoei!!!

    I just bought an RF12000 on eBay for $180. Really great helmet. Love the pinlock system, the graphics look wicked, and I feel more safe in it rather my old modular that was loose on my noggin. Only problem is.. the helmet is 7 years old. Which I should've asked the seller before buying it. From what I understand the material on the inside eventually breaks down. So I'm kinda concerned about falling but maybe I'll try and go with God this season and next season I'll buy a brand new one. We'll see.
  8. Hate to necro bump this post but I would like to state that the problem has been fixed and finally put to bed for good. The problem had nothing to do with fuses, or anything. I'll try and add my solution in hopes that in case this happens to anybody else. I befriended a motorcycle technician who was certified in Suzy, Kawi, and Yamaha. Bringing the bike to him, he automatically suspected something was up with tune and the map that was inside the power commander. He opened up the power commander with his iphone to take a look at the map inside. No map found. No problem though, as the dealership probably plugged the custom map and tune straight into my ECU. He reset the voltage on the TPS, as it was running a little high, but assured me that it was ok. He recommended I buy the dynojet autotune module for now. As for a temporary fix the autotune module would probably correct whatever issue the bike was having. Upon installing and testing, he found the bike to be running ridiculously rich. So rich, that my O2 sensor was completely black with soot and grime. Keep in mind, I had the bike for under 2 years and just under 2000 miles. So I barely was riding it. He installed the module and did some riding, as I guess the autotune kinda learns the drivers behavior. Holy shit. The bike is totally different. It PULLS at low speeds. It's like a missile. I feel like I'm on a FZ09. So far, in the little time riding I had before we got destroyed with snow again, I haven't noticed the rpms dip once, nor struggle at all. So I hope this information helps anybody in the future. Lastly, I want to thank everybody who contributed to this post. I know it dragged on for a year, but I really appreciate all of your selfless efforts to help me out. Wish I could treat you all to a beer. Thanks again.
  9. I'm in the market for some clip ons and rear sets. So I was considering the Woodcraft Clip ons and Driven Racing TT rearsets. But I'm trying to find some cheaper alternatives as I believe the Driven Racing TT rearsets are a little.. unreasonably priced. I'm sure their quality is there, but I think even at their discounted price of $322 its still a little over the top. I came across these chinese rearsets on eBay. I believe the brand is called Mad Moto. On top of them being cheaper than the Driven Racing TT's, I think they look wicked in comparison.

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