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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/21/2018 in all areas

  1. 12 points
    I haven't been on this forum for awhile since my project had many delays. We still aren't done but done enough to test the bike and me out last Friday. Video and pics from my practice day at Road Atlanta yesterday. We missed the morning sessions due to some issues but rode the 3 afternoon sessions. The video starts with me being pushed to pit out and the first time ever back on a motorcycle one day prior to my 6 year crash anniversary. I'm pretty sketchy the first session out. At 6:41 the video flips to the third session and I'm already much more comfortable. I took about 30 seconds off my lap times from just the first to third sessions. Got down to a 2:11 in the third session which is slow but I was still being conservative since it's all still new to me. Before my crash I think I turned 1:44's at Road Atlanta on my Aprilia/RZ 396cc 2T hybrid. Huge props to Doug McCracken. I wouldn't have been out there if it weren't for him. More mods to the bike are coming. Also have to thank Sue, Dustin Ducote, Pops, Richie, Edwin, Stick, all of WERA and many more who helped me along the way to get me where I am today. I decided to not race Saturday because I would have to start from pit lane and I know I'd get lapped. Some racers have traveled far and are spending hard earned money to race and I don't want to get in their way if fighting for a win or position. We had a great day and much to build upon. https://youtu.be/vteXo1czNWE https://youtu.be/ZHIXCDr1cN4
  2. 9 points
    My new Gulf livery on my 2017 Fz07. Just passed 10,000 miles and figured that it was time for a change. For this being my very first wrap, I was very excited about how it came out. I would be glad to hear any questions or comments. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 2 views. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 2 views.
  3. 9 points
    Well after retiring , liquidating my shop in SoCal and moving to beautiful New Mexico to live out my senior years it seems i couldn't leave well enough alone . I happened upon a damaged 2015 FZ-07 and thought - "that'd make a fun track bike !!". The previous owner had made a valiant effort to cut a u-turning sedan in half and had come up somewhat short - not as short as the wheel base on his FZ-07 - but close. I picked it up for a fair price and immediately started ordering parts . The mandate for this build is to keep it close to street legal . I'm not trying to build a championship winning motorcycle . After years of racing Ohlins suspended motorcycles i am used to and want something that handles . I haven't ridden a twin since my duck days but reading up on this model it seems it has plenty of torque and more than adequate power so i'm going to leave the engine alone. Not interested in race fairings - again just want a track day or occasional race day bike. First order of business was to build a rudimentary work bench . I'm too old to work on my hands and knees. There is so much great and useful information this site !!. I ordered up a cbr600rr shock, after market rear sets , front stem stand , stock forks , swingarm spools , case savers and all balls steering head bearings to get started . It has an M-4 slip on which is fine for now . I'm selling stuff on Ebay to fund this build and hope to have the funds soon for Ohlins cartridges , reflashed ECU with quick shifter and maybe a GPR steering damper . After that braided lines , maybe a brembo master , chain and sprocket kit etc . I'm going to keep a running $$ total . Once it's done and i'm happy with it i'll maybe race it to prove it's worth and then probably list it - or maybe not :))) - depends on how much fun i'm having . My wife isn't happy about me returning to the track lol . Beginning pics attached - any and all advice or tips appreciated.
  4. 8 points
    First caveat - if you've only got 3 days at the track under your belt, don't be too hard on yourself. Body position is a bitch to develop. You think you're Rossi or Marquez hanging off the bike - then you see a pic and you look like the wicked witch riding her broomstick sitting straight up and down. Happens to everyone. A few things to supplement what others have said - this coming from a coach and racer. This past year I've spent a lot of time at the track as an example. NJMP, Summit Point, VIR, PittRace, Road Atlanta, Road America, Mid Ohio, NCBike, Jennings GP. I average over 50 days a year. These are just my suggestions - as well as YCRS techniques: 1) Lean angle is your enemy. Period. You use the minimum amount of lean angle required in order to negotiate a corner at a given speed. Body position is the means by which we reduce lean angle. Lean angle gives you less of a contact patch, scrubs tires, and increases risk. If you're not an Advanced/Expert rider and you don't have at least "some" "chicken strips" on your tires, I can absolutely guarantee you that you're using too much lean angle, and that at some point your enthusiasm is going to outrun your talent - and you'll be on the ground. By your pics, you are carrying FAR too much lean angle. Why do the fastest guys carry so much lean angle? Because at the speed they are running (which is light years faster than you) they've run out of anything else BESIDES lean angle. They've already maximized body position inputs. Think of it as trying to keep as much lean angle as possible in reserve. Use ONLY what is required. I could get into the whole "100 points of grip" thing but I'm trying to keep it simple. 2) The FZ/MT without aftermarket clip ons will be hard to get really aggressive body position on. It can be done, but it will more resemble a Motard because of the geometry. 3) The entire purpose of "getting off the bike" is to weight the inside peg of the bike. The more you weight that inside peg, the less lean angle the bike requires to navigate the same corner at the same speed. The only way to really weight that inside peg is to get your body off the seat and off the bike. The only way to do it "relaxed" allowing you to really control the bike is to not get crossed up, and to have your bike and your body parallel to each other. 4) In those corners, get your butt back, and relax your arms. BEND that INSIDE elbow. That allows your upper body to drop down and your body to stay parallel to the bike. Have your inside foot pointed toward the inside of the turn, and have the end of the peg right under the ball of your foot - then PUSH that inside peg down. Hold the inside grip like a screwdriver. Relax the outside arm, and let it just drop comfortably on the tank. 5) Don't forget your corner entry! Be smooth on the controls. Pick up your brakes and carry them lighter - but longer. Good body position won't help if you give up the brakes abruptly in the corner, allowing the front suspension to unload, shrinking your tire contact patch, and extending the geometry of the bike making it less easy to turn. As you progress, hopefully you'll start to extend trail braking to at or near the apex (depending on if it's an entry or exit corner). But that's for down the road.... 6) Your butt should almost never - ever - ever - be in the middle of the seat on most tracks. Example: When I exit the carousel (T17-19) at PittRace, I never move my ass back from the left side of the bike all the way down the straight so I'm prepared for entry to T1. The two most important things however are this. First of all, pick one or two things to work on every session. No more than that. If you blow a corner, etc, then your lap starts on the next corner. Don't let it detract from your efforts. Second? Ignore all the wannabe fast guys that talk about getting a knee down, or an elbow down, or worse yet - chicken strips. Focus on your lines, smooth inputs, and body position. Then when your knee hits the ground you'll be surprised. It's not a goal. The FZ/MT is a very capable machine on the track to run at Novice to Intermediate pace without modification. I'm 6'2" and have zero issues racing that chassis.
  5. 6 points
    This winter I get to work on the bike in the house.
  6. 6 points
    Hello all. Picked up a new 2019 MT07 about two weeks ago. It's my first bike with any real power. About 10 years ago I had a ninja 250 briefly, then I got a honda grom this season to get myself back into riding and then decided to pick this up as my main bike. I plan on keeping it a long time since it's so versatile. I just clocked in 1k miles today and it's been a blast. Honestly, I made the mistake of only looking at the spec sheet saying it had 75hp and didn't realize how powerful this thing is in the real world. I was certainly surprised the first time I got on it in 1st and 2nd lol. I've also been very impressed with it's fuel economy. I'm averaging around 57 so far. I'm getting more and more used to it and as my skills improve, the bike becomes even more fun with every ride. The only thing I don't like so far is that it's a bit windy on the highway after about 70 (i know a windscreen can help with that) and the seating position has me just slightly too far forward. I've found it hurts my back a bit after extended rides. So I might be looking into a windscreen and possibly different handlebars someday. Anyway, Here are some pics in it's natural habitat: Ohio country roads!
  7. 6 points
    Photos from this past Father's Day tracking in the rain. Running Bridgestone S21's with half tread. They did quite well. No money for wets yet.
  8. 6 points
  9. 6 points
  10. 6 points
    If only 3k on the speedo is a rookie... Call me a rookie then. And I've had mine over a year. So don't worry how many miles you have on yours. The only important thing is that you enjoy what miles you put on it.
  11. 5 points
    Rode it, and put alot more dead bugs across the front.
  12. 5 points
    Sonoma Raceway in August.
  13. 5 points
    Adjustment Before beginning, your engine should be stone cold and in the service position with all marks aligned as detailed above. Recheck your valve clearances and be sure your measurements are correct. Annotate your findings as detailed above. Draw out a diagram of all eight valves separated by piston side and exhaust/intake side, and left/right side. Yamaha's suggestion is below (1). Calculate the hypothetical shim adjustment value. We will add this to the actual shim that's under the bucket to get the new shim size. An example is in the diagram above. Measured shim value - desired clearance = hypothetical shim adjustment Now we have to remove the cam chain tensioner, the cam chain, the camshafts, the valve lifters and shims, measure the shims, and replace the shims with the new correct shims. Begin by using a zip tie or mechanic's wire to secure the cam chain to the frame so it doesn't fall into the crankcase (1). Remove the cam chain tensioner next. Begin by removing the cover bolt on the cam chain tensioner (1). Then insert a 3mm hex key and begin twisting counter clockwise until it can't be turned anymore (2). This will retract the cam chain tensioner back into itself so that it relieves pressure applied to the cam chain. The hex key stays in the tensioner during this process. If it is removed, the tensioner will immediately SNAP back out, so keep the hex key in place! You might need a trimmed or short key to accomplish this (see the thread linked above), because the airbox will be in your way as you try to unfasten the 2 hex bolts that hold the tensioner onto the block, so you have to use a hex key instead of a ratchet + socket. But then the arm of the hex key can't reach over the inserted 3mm hex key unless the 3mm is trimmed down. Also, even when wound back completely, the tensioner will still be in contact with the chain, pressing back on the tensioner. That means as you remove the bolts, they may be under some tension. Take your time and don't force anything. Once you have the tensioner off the block, rest it gently on something soft and use a careful touch with the gasket if you plan on reusing it. REMINDER do NOT move the crankshaft now that the cam chain tensioner has been removed. If you do, the cam chain will skip teeth, moving the crankshaft out of time from the valve train. Mark the chain pins and sprocket teeth with corresponding witness marks (1, 2). Double check all 3 timing marks before you do this. This will be your target when reassembling. Begin removing the cam caps (1). Start with the intake cap, then the exhaust cap. Remove the bolts in a crisscross order working from the outside inwards. Crack the bolt loose then move on to the next diagonally. Then return to the first side and crack that one loose, go diagonally to the other side, then crack the middle bolt on the opposite side from where you started, then get the last one. I removed the bolts evenly, about 1/2 turn at a time for each bolt following that pattern. I'm not sure if that level of detail is necessary, but I can say you definitely need to be even removing the bolts. You want to avoid the cap bending at all. A bent cap will apply uneven pressure to the camshaft journals and ruin the camshaft and thus the engine. Remove the cam chain from the sprockets - make sure it is fastened to the frame so it doesn't fall into the crankcase! Then remove the camshafts and put them on something soft (1, 2). Now the valve lifters are exposed (1). Stuff a rag into the cam chain area to avoid anything falling into the crankcase (2). Identify the valve shims that need to be replaced. Work one valve at a time to avoid messing up which shim came from where. Pull the valve lifter and valve shim out with an extendable magnet (3). It should capture both the lifter and the shim. Be very, very careful that the shim does not fall into the engine - plug everything up! Working one valve at a time, take out the shim from the follower. The shims probably have the measurement laser etched into them, but you should still check with your calipers (1). Record the measurement of the existing shim into your diagram from earlier. Now that you've measured the existing incorrectly sized shim, calculate the new shim size (1,2). Add the hypothetical shim adjustment value calculated before to the measured shim size to get the correct shim size. Round it if necessary to get a size you actually have using the table below or your own judgement. When making this adjustment, bear in mind that you should be adjusting to the higher (looser) end of the specification range. The valve train will wear over time and make the clearance smaller and smaller until you need to do this again. Do yourself a favor and don't adjust the valve clearance to the smaller (tighter) end of the specification. (Measured clearance - Desired clearance) + Installed shim size = new shim size Coat the new valve shim with assembly lube (1) - the red stuff, technically speaking molybdenum disulfide based lubricant. Install the shim in the depression on the valve making absolutely sure the shim is in place square, not crooked (2). You'll feel it click into place. Coat the valve lifter ("bucket") with engine oil and replace over the shim you just installed. Then move on to the next valve that needs attention, repeating the process you just followed. When you're done replacing the valve shims, it's time to replace the camshafts, cam caps, cam chain, and cam chain tensioner. Then you'll check your work by rotating the engine, rechecking the clearances, and if you're satisfied, button it all back up. Start that process by placing the camshafts back where you found them. Begin with the exhaust camshaft (1). Put the timing mark parallel with the cylinder head again. Grab the chain and drape it over the sprocket, matching the witness marks you made on the chain pin and tooth. Two things are important here: 1. You need to make sure the chain is as tight as possible on the exhaust side while draping the chain over the exhaust camshaft sprocket; and 2. do not pull the chain hard enough to move the crankshaft! These are competing goals, so take your time here and be sure the marks all line up. Remember that the cam chain tensioner can only apply tension on one side (the intake side) of the cam chain, so that's why we are pulling the exhaust side tight without moving the crankshaft. Coat the camshaft cap journals and the camshaft journals with assembly lube (1,2 - ignore that the intake cam is in place in this photo!). Coat the cap bolts in engine oil. Replace the exhaust camshaft cap, pressing gently until the cap snaps into place. Be very careful placing the bolts into their holes, taking care not to drop them into the crankcase! Tighten the camshaft cap from the inside out (the opposite of when we removed it), tightening in stages so that it is evenly applied. Be sure your witness marks are aligned! It is very important that the caps are torqued evenly and properly. I finger-tightened them 1/2 turn at a time following the crisscross pattern described in the last post until they were all finger-tight. Then I got the 1/4" torque wrench and continued turning each 1/2 turn until they were all torqued properly. The mistake to be made here is unevenly tightening the caps and warping them slightly. My intake cap was actually slightly warped from the factory, but I compensated by tightening the lifted side an extra full turn before resuming the gradual 1/2 turn process. The cap bolts for both sides are to be torqued to 10Nm or 7.2 lbft. Install the intake camshaft, aligning the markings with the cylinder head edge (1). Again drape the chain over top of the sprocket, aligning your witness marks. Zip tie the chain to the intake sprocket by putting a tie through the holes in the sprocket. This is to ensure the chain doesn't skip as the intake cap and cam chain tensioner are being installed. Do not forget to cut these off when you're done, and when you do, do not let the tie fall into the crankcase! Replace the cam chain tensioner. It should still have the hex key inserted all the way, retracting the tensioner into itself. If it isn't retract it now by inserting a trimmed-down 3mm hex key and turning it counter clockwise until it stops (1). Make sure the gasket is attached with the protruding tab facing upwards and insert it into the block. Replace the 5mm hex bolts and begin tightening them down while the key is still inserted into the tensioner. Tighten them both to 10Nm or 7.2lbft. When you're certain the cap bolts are all torqued properly and that the alignment marks and witness marks are all aligned, go ahead and pull the hex key out. This will snap the actuator forward, tensioning the chain. This is what the zip ties were for. Once it's snapped out, cut the zip ties around the sprockets while holding the tie so they don't fall into the engine. Hopefully your chain didn't skip any teeth. Now that the camshafts are installed, the camshaft caps are installed, the cam chain tensioner is installed, and all of the marks are aligned, we can rotate the engine counter clockwise again. Turn it over maybe 5 times to spread the assembly lube and seat all of the parts. Now remeasure your clearances using the steps you followed earlier. The clearances should be as you calculated them unless you made a mistake measuring the first time. If something is wrong, now is the time to disassemble and make it right. If the clearances are as expected, turn the engine over a few more times until you're satisfied, and replace everything you removed. When replacing the valve cover, having all of the wiring zip tied up to the frame really helps. I had to dab some grease into the channel molded into the valve cover to get the gasket to stay put in the cover while finagling the cover over the head again. If you do this, apply it sparingly and wipe off any excess that smushes out of the sides. You should use gasket sealer to do this but I didn't want the rubber to stick permanently. To be clear, do not put any sealant between the rubber gasket and the cylinder head! That interface should be bone dry and clean. You'll have to push in one end of the cover, then pivot up the other end of the cover up and over the camshaft caps. The crankcase breather hose connection is a real bitch because it interferes with the useless long bolts on the ECU tray above the engine. Wear some gloves. When it's time to tighten the valve cover, tighten in stages to 10Nm or 7.2 lbft. Reinstall the crankshaft end cover making sure the rubber O-ring is clean (10Nm or 7.2lbft), and the timing mark access bolt (15Nm or 11lbft). Install the cam chain cover bolt (7Nm or 5.1lbft). Replace everything else you took off. Remember to twist your gas tank back the way it came, and don't forget to plug in the fuel pump, the air sensor (the plug on the front of the gas tank), the fan motor, and the ignition coils back to their original places. You just saved a few hundred bucks, and more importantly, you've earned your man card. Have a beer (or 4) to celebrate!
  14. 5 points
    Well, next weekend is opener! There are currently 39 Twins Cup entrants for the opening round at Road Atlanta! Apparently last year went well and this year the class is exploding. Looking forward to representing at a couple of rounds again this year! Our MA # is 167 My CRA # is 155
  15. 5 points
    Friday practice in the books. Beautiful weather, great track and Oh, look what showed up. That's right folks, Dave Crussell with some ridiculous vintage iron! That's one of his TZ750's, a lovely old KZ1000 and there's a nice little 125 hiding in back his wife was running. Glorious sounds, smells and memories of my wasted childhood. What a time turning laps with this stuff. Having my visor hazed in 2 stroke oil smoke from 4 carbon cans exiting the back of the inline 4 cylinder beast going up the 5000 foot front straight, ahh, excuse me a moment. As I type this Saturday morning with the paddock sounds and the smell of fresh, perked coffee and bacon while mounting up some fresh tires for today's combat sessions I can only pity those who aren't here someplace. Blue Line Racing.
  16. 5 points
  17. 5 points
    As a LEO, I pulled or helped pull quite a few barely alive/dying/dead people out of vehicles involved in crashes caused by an intoxicated driver while the idiot that caused it is walking around wondering what happened (like the driver in the video trying to start his car). I've pulled from babies up to great-grandmothers bodies out trying to see if we could save them. Sometimes you can, sometimes not. The anger I felt towards the driver was almost blinding. But, somehow, cops manage to not shoot/strangle/beat the pulp out of them right then and there (sometimes by the skin of their teeth with my Irish temper). Then I had the most miserable task in the world, which is to go inform the spouse, parents, etc... that their loved one is dead. More than once I've been to a home where a wife (now widow) and their children were waiting supper for Daddy to come home and eat. The food is staying warm in the kitchen, the table is set for what is now one to many. The wife somehow always knows something is up when she opens the door, you can see it on her face. Want to see a cop's tears? Talk to him after one of these calls. I'd rather have done just about anything than that part of the job. If you go out drinking, have fun. Nothing wrong with that. But if you or anyone else thinks that maybe you should call for a ride, then CALL FOR A RIDE or stay where you're at if possible. A $50.00 charge for a ride is exponentially less than a DWI or Intoxicated Manslaughter charge (and the civil suits and guilt that can go along with them). Call a taxi service, a lot of companies drive drunks home at no charge if they cannot pay. A few police departments and sheriff's offices have programs to get drunks home safely (there just has to be a responsible, sober party there to take charge of them when they get home). Be a kid while the party's going on, but be a grownup when the party's over. Please, be responsible when you drink.
  18. 5 points
    So far, so good. Friday was a glorious day. Sunny and warm(ish). I had some fun on it in morning practice before we got the bike dialed in in the afternoon for Tony to run at Road America. Makes a crap ton of power, suspension spot on, new Dunlop spec tires are awesome after getting pressure and temperature dialed in. There was an unnamed pro from the MotoAmerica Twins Cup points chase here testing to run against in practice. Not bad, very happy with our situation. Saturday is 40 degrees, rainy and 30 mph winds, grrate... Tony put the bike on the podium in the trophy dash, said he's never been so happy on a bike, good news. But he nearly shagged a brand new rear rain tire as the track dried between rain cells during the race. I worked as a corner captain for the day since they were short of volunteer track workers due to weather, go figure. During lunch break I found out that out that our competitors had got my bike ready for Tony (busy racing his own bikes) to race in the trophy dash for me since I was busy working a corner. SOLID!! Overall a perfect day. Tomorrow who knows, forecast is for armagedon, we'll see. I'm scheduled to run the Formula 40 (old guy) race on it as set up for Tony. Should be a fun challenge. We'll see if I can get a 'trophy', lol. All in all a great outing. Got it dialed in spot on for Tony. Looking forward to Road America in 2 weeks! Get off the couch and stop daydreaming your life away! Blue Line Racing.
  19. 5 points
    Closing out this thread, See you at the race track...
  20. 5 points
    Just finished a front end conversion! Got full 2012 R6 front end (very good condition) including wheel off ebay. Still need to do some finishing touches. Ridable at moment waiting for headlight clamps and upper triple tree from https://www.topyokes.uk/product/yamaha-yzf-r6/ When I stood original fork legs side by side they were almost exact length. Might get a custom upper triple thats stepped like the original. For now rides really solid. Way better than stock. Turn radius is slightly reduced due to wider triples. (even after filing down steering stops) Pretty easy to do as long as you have vice (changing fork oil) grinder for steering stops and headset. Drill for upper triple. And upper bearing from AP or TWF. One thing I didnt plan on was getting the upper bearing out since it was almost flushed there was maybe a micron of lip so I used a large socket at a angle and punched it out that way. Oh and the ignition is was bolted in with those brake off nuts so you need drill tap those.
  21. 5 points
    Some more Swing Arm Modifications. So if you haven't seen the FZ-07R build that Zoran did on the TWF forum, you should. Zoran does some cool stuff. I thought his ideas were so cool that I borrowed a few. First I attached the chain adjuster blocks to the swing arm. This keeps them in place when the rear wheel is removed. I used 4mm cap screws on these. Next I pinned the axle to the R/S adjuster plate. This holds the assembly together during wheel removal. Third I added a standard castle nut (SV 650) to the rear axle. This will help with frequent wheel removal and eliminate the possibility of a frozen or stripped stock lock nut. I drilled a hole for a latch pin (instead of cotter pin) and then milled a notch on top and bottom of L/S adjuster plate. Now I just need to purchase TWF's captive wheel super kits. Finished product.
  22. 5 points
    Here's what I use for a bead breaker. Don't laugh! $4 worth of lumber and I've knocked truck tires off beads with it. Also, the wood won't gouge your rims if things go sideways. Just pivots off a stud in the wall with a long 8mm bolt. Stuff it in the corner when not in use. You can actually see a bit of blue on the tip where the paint on the 07 wheels is super fragile. I made this stand a few years ago for balancing. The bearing were $8 for a 10pk on eBay. Not a critical application, so not worried about the possible low quality of the bearing. Other wise it's just whatever scrap metal I had on hand. The leveling feet are handy to keep to keep it from rocking. The shaft is just a piece of 1/2" round stock ( not precision ground) and I've seen no need for cones. No balance issue up to 130 or so. I use Motion Pro levers and rim shields. I like MP's aluminum spoons. More than strong enough to mount bikes tires. With the right technique, once the tire is started, you can work a tire off with one spoon and not come anywhere near the rim lip to worry about scratches. I think the spoons were under $20 and you can use milk jugs in place of the rim shields. But rim shields are only about $15. So less than $40 all in. Big fan of the S21's myself!
  23. 5 points
  24. 4 points
    Grubbing up on route to Pitt, Randomville, USA. Brought buddies little trailer, 10mpg instead of 6. 0505 hours, another tar parking lot, another track. Crew sound asleep, work to be done. Coffee made, tires swapped out, breakfast cooking, tech in an hour, 100% humidity. They're getting gravy wrung from my skivies on their biscuits. I guess they should have got up & helped!?
  25. 4 points
    Found this tread when i was looking for info regarding the valve clearance on the MT-07. Figured I couldn't be the only one, made a quick video showing the process on the MT-07. Hope it helps other owners. Link to video
  26. 4 points
    An ECU flash is by no means required. But many appreciate the changes brought to the bike with it regardless of the minimal performance gains. I've not heard of a single problem created by a quality ECU flash. I've been nothing but pleased with my 2WDW flash. Removing the ECU is a 10 minute job that requires no more than removing the seat and a side cover. Unless you're in love with the engine braking, which you can have 2WDW leave intact if you so desire, I'm not aware of anything a proper flash does that you'd not be happy with. Good Luck in whichever direction you go.
  27. 4 points
    Bought a month ago new previous year's mt-07, the one with neon green wheels. Bike is planned purely for recreation to improve mood and get fresh air as I work from home. In the past I used to commute on ninja 250 for around 10 years but recently I was bikeless for 6 years so it will take some time getting comfortable riding again and getting skills back. So far I like the bike quite a lot. Pretty good step up from 250. Way much more fun but not dangerously. Was a bit confused by throttle jerkiness and sharp engine breaking but after tensioning loose chain and after couple hundred miles it seemes a bit smoother. As I understand ECU flash might help but I plan to just try getting used to it and learning smoother throttle control this year. Not planning any modifications beside frame sliders. Not sure about why everyone rushes in with tail tidying and exhausts, looks like a good way to throw dirt at yourself and piss off neighbors. Thinking about getting some inexpensive luggage in addition to backpack to get extra riding time from quick grocery store runs.
  28. 4 points
  29. 4 points
    Just installed my Corbin seat and it's awesome! I realize there are several other Corbin posts out there but I figured I'd add my input and pics as well. Install was simple. It hooks underneath the metal fuel tank (not the factory seat hook) at the front and attaches using the factory rear seat latch. When I first installed it, I had to push down pretty hard on the rear to get it to latch. I added 2 small washers under the hook at the rear to make it latch a little easier and now it's perfect. The fit and finish is impressive and I like the looks of the seat much more than I was expecting to. I'm 6/2 and 215lbs and I have about 350ish miles on the seat now and the first thing I noticed is that it adds a noticeable amount of height over the factory seat (and even the Seat Concepts seat this is replacing). I'm now leaned a little more forward now. I wasn't expecting that but luckily I happen to have taller replacement handlebars laying around that I'll install to help get myself more upright again. The height seems to come from the added shape to the front of the seat where it meets the tank. Much more material here than stock. The seat has a nice curve at the rear of the front seat that, as others have mentioned, works nice to hold you in place during hard acceleration. The seat still allows easy maneuvering from side to side for spirited riding although that will likely be different with other seat coverings. I can say though that the seat shape doesn't impede side-to-side movement. I have the Gunfighter model which has a smaller profile at the rear as compared to their more pillion-friendly Gunfighter and Lady version. I don't take passengers but I'm willing to bet that my seat is much more comfy than the stock rear seat. Another thing to note about the rear is that it is nice and flat making it easy to strap a tailbag to it which I like. Ballparking the amount of time before I started feeling some discomfort on each seat goes something like this: stock seat = 1hr or so, Seat Concepts foam and cover replacement = 1.5-2hrs, Corbin = 3+hrs so far. Of course these are my findings and everybody will have different results but I can comfortably go a full tank of gas now without squirming around in the seat. I should mention that even once I start to feel some discomfort, it stays manageable now and I'm finding that I really don't need to move around like I did with the previous seats. Things may change as the seat breaks in and I'll keep this post updated on any new info. I ordered the seat here as they had the best prices I could find: https://biohazardcycles.com/corbin-y-fz7-14-g-gunfighter-saddle-seat-fz07-fz-07/ Seat showed up about 3 weeks later. The options I went with are: Black Carbon Fiber for the seat, tail, and welt. Asphalt Vinyl for the sides. Black stitching and logo. On to the pics,
  30. 4 points
    I don't know how "bad" it is, but every bike I've ever owned (more than a dozen), has pulled to the right when I let go of the bars..... All roads are made with a slight "crown" in them, to allow water to drain off of them. I owned a Goldwing once that I swore had a twist in the frame. Turns out that it just felt like it, because I was looking at through the straight line at the top of the windscreen all the time, and the bike was always leaning to compensate for the crown in the road, the windscreen made it look "crooked" compared to the road. You may want to try this- Get in the left lane of a 2 (or more) expressway, and let go of the bars. the bike will probably stay "neutral", or may pull slightly left. FYI: If you look closely at a worn out front tire on heavy bike (Goldwing, or cruiser) just slightly left of the center of the tire will be slightly more worn. That's because your front tire has been compensating for the slight crown in the road for several years. Hope that helps -
  31. 4 points
    Here’s my setup: Yamalube koozie holding it all together (CRUCIAL), 4 Co2 16's and 1 in the canister,knife,needle nose,reemer,rope plugs are underneath, gun-lock for my helmet, pig-tail for battery float charger. Thats the way I found to get what I needed in there.
  32. 4 points
    First off.... Congrats on your new purchase!!! Now the real talk, it's a dirt bike which means it's a completely different animal from all of your other bikes. More simply put, it's not meant to feel or ride like all of your past street bikes. The WR250 in particular leans way more to the dirt than a Kawasaki KLR650, Suzuki DR650, Honda XL650, or those beastly BMW dual sports. It is a lot more like the street legal KTM's as far as dual sports go. Now the great news.... if you keep this bike and learn how to ride it in the dirt, you will be a MUCH better street rider on any street bike which obviously includes your FZ-07. Think of it as cross training. Inherent in dirt riding is that you will often be riding on or past the edge as in you will need to learn how to handle your WR250 in situations where either or both of the wheels are sliding, making split second moves to keep you from hitting something on the trail, as well as a TON of other bike handling maneuvers that you will rarely get an opportunity to do on your FZ. You will learn how to jump your WR, as well as riding standing on the footpegs on a regular basis. How does this help you on a street bike... first, you will know how to handle your FZ in unplanned/dangerous situations. More importantly you won't freak out in those situations. For example, a car stop suddenly in front of me, and my FZ did some rear wheel sliding (no ABS on my FZ). That is a situation where a street rider could crap there pants, screw up and wreck as they never encountered that before. It was no big deal to me, and my first thought after was... so that's what my FZ feels like when it's sideways - COOL! My $0.02 would be to go to your local bike shop and ask around about places to ride. I'll bet there are more places than you think. Once you find some dirt bike riding buddies, your fun factor will go up big time! Depending on your vehicle, I would consider getting a bike carrier that fits into your bumper hitch with the bike being positioned at a 90 degree angle. Those carriers are cheap, and will easily handle the weight of the WR. Plus with a bumper carrier, you have no excuses not to go riding. While taking a class wouldn't be a bad idea, just get out and take it easy as your learn. Plus, there is a lot to be said for riding with someone else in case you get into a wreck, or at least make sure you carry a cell phone when you are dirt riding. Lastly, the Yamaha WR250 is a great choice to seriously learn how to dirt ride. It's light, has plenty of power, and handles well, and then there is that Yamaha reliability! Speaking of power, while it might seem to be not that fast on the street, trust me, there is plenty of power to scare the crap out of you on the dirt! FWIW and IMHO, your WR250 needs no upgrades other than maybe a fresh set of dual sport tires such as Pirelli MT21 or Dunlop 606. You want to go with 90% dirt/10% street tires with that bike for sure. Don't sell it, don't try to convert it to a street bike, and more importantly just get out and ride the piss out of it!!! Enjoy and be safe!
  33. 4 points
    All that time and attention given to painting that bike and they didn't take that damn warning sticker off the tank...
  34. 4 points
    People, even dealerships, forget to stake the nut for the front sproket after r&r-ing it. After a bit it spins off. ...or so I've heard...
  35. 4 points
    This is just a thread to let fellow Canadians know what to expect when sending your ECU to be flashed. This is not a review on the flash itself as there's far too much snow to even think about riding right now. Winters are long here so it's the perfect time to send your ECU to be flashed. I took advantage of the Black Friday sale for $259 USD. I sent mine out via Canada Post tracking on December 3rd. 2WDW received it late in the day on December 10th. The ECU was flashed and sent back to me on December 11th. I just received it today, December 19th. This is a pretty good turn around time considering it's really close to Christmas and packages typically take longer during the month of December. Shipping there via Canada Post, insured for $300, and tracking was $19 CAD. Once in the US, Canada Post packages are delivered by USPS. 2WDW charged $45 USD ($63 CAD) for return shipping, tracked with a signature, and insured for $500. It was shipped back via USPS. While I think the return shipping is a bit steep, I'm very happy that it traveled safely to and from. There were no extra charges at my door for duties or taxes. Now the long long wait till spring when I'll finally be able to test it out.
  36. 4 points
    You should definitely go do a track day..... Leave your preconcieved ideas about what you THINK you know, at the gate. I thought I new how to ride once.... I had 30+ years of dirt & street experience- "What could anyone possibly teach me, that I don't already know???" I learned more on my first track day, than I did in my previous thirty years of riding. I had a rider coach that I didn't like (on a personal level), yet I still managed to learn so much from him. My first track day was 10 years ago. I am now a rider coach as well. Just, PLEASE don't ride like that on the street.... EVER again-
  37. 4 points
    Hey Fellas, I bought my FZ07 in November and after a lot of reading on this awesome forum I have slowly modded my bike onto what you see today. Totally happy with the bike and with my mods so far. Now just waiting for the weather to warm up and do a track day.
  38. 4 points
    Waste of time and money.
  39. 4 points
    I can only recommend to try a different procedure. I've had to do that (take the gloves off) with bikes/things in the past so I made it a habit to put the key in before I did anything else and then you can put your glove on before your hand gets real cold. You get used to it like anything else that isn't perfect. For me, that's a lot of things. What irritates me about my gloves is I can't put the helmet strap on with the gloves on so I always have to remember to put the gloves on 2nd. I understand the annoyance.
  40. 4 points
    Hello all, I am a new member, a new MT-07 owner and a new rider ( 1 year with a bike 2 years with my M2 license Canadian, we have a graduated system). I am looking forward to reading other peoples insights on the model I spent a fair amount of time researching.
  41. 4 points
    Its because they have tuned probably over a thousand of our members ecu's. It is also because they are an honest tuner/dyno shop in a sea of dishonest dynoshops. There are a ton of dynoshops who put up false hp dyno charts online, you can make a dyno reading show whatever you want to. There are also a bunch of Dyno shops who don't do the daily adjustments and calibrations that are required to produce accurate results and tuning. Many shops don't even realize this is needed. We talk a lot about Nels at @2wheeldynoworks because I and the staff have done our research and know that he is an honest guy on the cusp of the latest technology. And thousands of raceteams, famous racers, track day riders and forum members agree. As an actual website owner (unlike a facebook group kid) I feel compelled to only work with the very best shops in the industry because thousands of you read what we post and recommend. The vendors on this forum are among the best in the industry and yes, I have removed some who proved to be otherwise. Also, myself and 2wdw actually found the test bike for FTECU to make the very first tune fz-07 and mt-10 flash file. All that base tune from FTECU does is open up the files in the factory tune so that they can be adjusted. Then tuners like Nels are then able to run their tests and create their power tunes for those bikes, this is where the extra HP, better fueling, and performance comes from. In my experience, interviews with countless bike owners, talks with FTECU themselves about 2wdw and forum member reviews, the very best tuning experience money can buy is to get an matching exhaust and tune from @2wheeldynoworks . Call them and you will be shocked at their unlisted exhaust prices when bought with a tune. I mean lower than any retailer online, by far.
  42. 3 points
    Funny you should mention this. I own, and race, in both a Schuberth SR1 and an HJC RPHA10. Both great helmets but in every measurable way the Schuberth is technically superior to the HJC. It certainly is a 'premium' helmet. But I find myself wearing the HJC 90% of the time due to comfort and convenience. The biggest reason is the center shield release mech found on the HJC. WTF can't Schuberth (insert any stodgy premium manufacturer of whatever here) just use what works instead of trying to reinvent the wheel for some features? If a bear dumps in the woods the Germans are out there, micrometers and calculators in hand, re engineering it for better aero, less weight, better performance etc., sheesh. Just make it ambidextrous already! End rant.
  43. 3 points
    "Ride like everyone else is trying to kill you" - MSF Course Instructor "There's one more idiot than you think there is on the road" - my Dad. (I finally figured out that the last idiot was me...)
  44. 3 points
    You guys looked great. Best looking bike/pit/operation of the weekend. Had a great back and forth battle with Draik too in race 2, nice. It's great to see the class take off, biggest grid of the weekend! It's also nice to see innovation and diversity in the class. There's some solid talent out there, especially in the top 10 spots. I look forward to meeting and talking to you at Road America if you're gonna be there. I'd love to talk shop, intakes, testing, data or just nonsense. We've just concluded some extensive intake testing and come up with very interesting data.
  45. 3 points
    This was today's project. I had some left over metal from another project so thought I would make a race cart by adding on to a shop cart with rubber wheels. The idea is to make one trip from trailer to pit lane. Makin a mess in the pic above. Below it is starting to take shape. Here it is fastened to the cart almost finished. Easy up and lawn chairs go on one side. Table and a set of paddock stands on the other. A weight bucket and stands on one end, another weight bucket and fuel can on the other. Warmers, tools and miscellaneous on top shelf, generator and air tank on bottom. Tomorrow and Monday are at the tuners, hopefully we'll have some data soon. I'm losing what little mind I had left here. Be killer at the Piggy Wiggly. Things are starting to look bleak for Suzuki.
  46. 3 points
    Next time sacrifice a few zip ties, it helps a lot. Tie sidewalls together, I prefer to pinch the sidewalls together better by placing the lock next to the rim and pull TIght, then pull tire off rim, usually can twist the rim 90° in the tire and roll it right out. (both sides same time)
  47. 3 points
    Don't have family in Arizona so didn't get any gifts. But I bought myself a gift! An AGV Pista GP R Carbon Gran Premio for track season next year I tried one street ride with it on, I wouldn't recommend it a street helmet, barely any peripheral vision but plenty of forward vision in the tuck position. Stupid aerodynamic! I'm excited to put it to the test at Arizona Motorsports Park soon.
  48. 3 points
  49. 3 points
    What's up everyone! This is my first bike for the street, I have ridden motocross for about 3 years but wanted to get something for the road. Everything I was looking I found in this bike (style, price, cc's). Bought it brand new from the dealer and got a full yoshi carbon exhaust for half off with it about 3 days ago and this has been the best purchase I have made in my entire life! Ha!
  50. 3 points
    The standard gearing is so low first gear is nearly useless. Save your buck$ - shift down a gear.
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