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  1. 15 points
    Luckily, I got one of the very first ones in the country. The engine seems to have a lil more pop to it over the MT07, but probably due to it being geared lower. Suspension is fully adjustable and better than I thought it would be. Feels great on the road, offroad is a blast but have to take it kind of slow because the suspension bottoms out easily. Im gonna dd progressive springs and revalve forks and shock. Seat is comfortable. It's a great do it all bike so far.
  2. 13 points
    My aim was to find an affordable set of forks to slot in to our trees in the hopes for a quick, inexpensive fork upgrade that anyone could do with basic tools at home. Well, I think it worked out, but it's not quite as "bolt-on" as I hoped. It's still relatively simple to pull off at home. Here goes... The forks to use will be Honda 1995-98 Honda CBR600F3 forks. Has to be F3 forks. There were a few F2 forks in '94 that had cartridge internals, but I'm not positive they are the same as these. The internals will give you dual cartridges in each leg ( rebound and compression ), externally adjustable rebound clicker and externally adjustable preload. There is no external adjustment for compression. My first goal was to just use the F3 forks in our trees. F3 forks are also 41mm like ours. That would retain all factory geometry while also upgrading to larger, floating rotors. But it didn't work out. Fork spacing of our trees is too close together, so the stock F3 wheel would not fit back between them. The stock F3 wheel uses the same size tire and it's twisted 6 spoke pattern would be very close to a visual match. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 5 views. Moving on...let's see if we can just use our fork lowers on the F3 tubes and cartridges. The answer is, yes! Stock internals above, F3 bits below. A few thing to note here. 1- Springs are the same length(the picture is deceptive). Spacers are different lengths, but that's not important. We'll get back to this later. 2- F3 springs are progressively wound. 3- What anchors the forks together uses different size bolts. More on this directly below. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 0 views. Here is the final fastener that actually holds the forks together. Above is the damper rod from the stock forks, below is the compression cartridge from the F3 forks. The stock bolt is a 10mm , the F3 bolt is 8mm. If you've ever changed forks seals/bushings...these are those bolts in the bottom of the fork lower that want to fight you. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 1 views. Here's what it takes to do the swap. When you first disassemble the F3 forks this is what you will see at the bottom of the cartridge assembly. That threaded hole is where is the forks lower attaches. You need to remove that compression cartridge from the cartridge assembly. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 0 views. Just with your finger, push the cartridge in to the tube to reveal this circlip. Pop out that circlip. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 1 views. Thread the bolt back in as a handle and pop it out. Easy peasy. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 0 views. This is what needs to be modified. That aluminum piece is just a seat for the cartridge assembly. It sandwiches between the fork lower and the compression cartridge. Since the F3 bolt was 8mm it also needs to be opened up to accept the 10mm bolt needed for the stock fork lowers. The bottom of the cartridge needs to be drilled and tapped to accept the stock bolt as well. This is the only things that need to be modified. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 1 views. Before you do any work to the compression cartridge you need to fully disassemble it. You can not have ANY tiny amount of grit or debris in these components. We're talking surgical clean here. Try your best to not mar the outside of the valve. Use hardwood, sheets of copper, aluminum soft jaws on your vice....whatever it takes...but please avoid pipe wrenches, vise grips,etc. All you need to remove is the socket head ( allen head) screw that holds the valve assembly to the valve body. That bolt is threadlocked in place, so get a good grip on things, but you do not need to use an impact or anything crazy. Now you can drill & tap without damaging the valve assembly. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 1 views. You do NOT need a lathe to do this! I never turned the machine on, I just used the lathe to help me align the parts for tapping. I tapped the valve by hand. But note the slip of copper protecting the valve body from the jaws of the chuck. Something like that is all you need. The new thread needs to be tapped to M10-1.0. 10mm diameter with a 1.0 thread pitch. Your tap should tell you what size drill bit to use. If not, a 8.5mm drill bit is the industry standard to use for a M10-1.0 hole. 8.5mm lands right between 5/16" and 11/32". I used a sharp 11/32" drill bit with perfect results. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 1 views. Important! Do NOT drill all the way through the valve body. Only drill and tap as far as needed. You can see it clearly with all the parts in your hands, but remember that the other side of the valve body uses a smaller fastener to retain the valve assembly. You can see a small step at the base of the new M10-1.0 thread. That is where the smaller thread begins. New M10-1.0 thread. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 1 views. Smaller thread on other side of the valve. 5mm? 6mm? I can't remember... Imgur Post with 0 votes and 1 views. At this point, you are done modifying, all that's left to do is reassemble the forks as if they were bone stock F3 forks. You use the forks tubes, caps, internals and lower bushings from the F3 forks. The ONLY FZ07 parts you will use is the fork lowers, 10mm retaining bolts and upper fork bushing. The lower fork bushings from the F3 forks are interchangeable with your stock bushings, but they are actually properly sized! They are not the "too small" bushings Yamaha gave us. So, reuse the F3 lower bushings unless you already have properly fitting bushings that are in good, or better, shape than what is in your F3 donor forks. The upper F3 bushings are larger than our stock bushing, so be sure to reuse the stock upper bushing or you will bind the forks. Stock on the left, F3 on the right. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 0 views. Finally assembly notes: Honda and the internet will gine you lots of differing suggestions on what fork oil and oil level to use. The thing to remember is that our bikes are a good 40lbs lighter than the F3 donor bike these forks came from. I originally went with 10w oil at 116mm oil level. It was harsh. I am currently using Maxima 52 oil at 120mm oil level and am happy with how the forks feel. Also, I am 220lbs in my birthday suit. I do not know what the stock spring rate is for F3 forks, but they springs work for me. However, remember earlier when I mentioned the springs were the same length? If you are happy with your current spring rates, just reuse your stock springs. The diameters are the same, so you're good to go. This post is strictly to show what small modification need to be done to install our stock fork lowers on to F3 fork tubes, and what oil weight and level works good for our bikes.. I am purposefully not going in to detail on how to disassemble and reassemble these two different types of forks. There's tons of info on that already. Just disassemble both, drill/tap the valve body and reassemble. Ride impressions: There is no doubt you are riding on late 90's sport bike fork technology at this point. Low speed compression bumps are a tad harsh. Not bone-jarring, just a tad harsh. But everything else is fantastic. Compression and rebound characteristics are VERY good. My stock forks would often jar me at speed. EG, hitting bridge expansion joints at highway speeds. That no longer happens. If you riding on a rough road at city speed (25-35 mph) the forks will feel a tad harsh....kinda like riding a sport bike! But at speed?....oh, at speed...that harder you push the plusher they feel. Throw the bike back and forth between corners and she's solid. No wallow. No wiggle. Just a nicely dampened front suspension. Travel: If you look up the specs on wheel travel on our bikes VS the F3 forks you will think this will give up fork travel. It won't. Yamaha lied. The ONLY way you can get the full 5.1" inches of travel out of the stock forks is if you completely compress the topout springs. Never gonna happen. Wheel travel is the same. Now...here's the "bad" art of this deal. The fork tubes are 2.25" longer than stock. So, if you just want to do this to your bike and leave everything else stock you will be rocking some extra fork tube above the top yoke. Like me! Yeah, you might look like a total squid noob with a lowered bike at first glance, but who cares. However....this also give you some pretty nice options! Been wanting to raise your bike and inch or so? Gotcha covered. Want to run legit clipons without some bulky,expensive adapter that bolts to the floppy stock bar mounts? Gotcha covered there, too! A set of 41mm clipons ( very common size) could be slid in to place and made to work oh,so easily. So are the long tubes a blessing or a cosmetic con? depends on what you need out of your bike. And yes, I did check for travel with so much tube exposed. You will not crash the fork lowers in to the bottom yokes. The bottom edge of the blue masking tape represents the forks completely bottomed out. Plenty of clearance. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 1 views. So, stock fork lowers in order to retain your original wheel and brakes. But add fully cartridge internal, extra height is wanted and the ability to mount clipons. For 100 bucks. I paid $75 for my forks off Craigslist and wasted some oil figuring out what worked good. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 2 views.
  3. 11 points
    I recently set about doing a throttle body sync today, and needed to fully remove the fairings around the tank on my 2018, and realized there's basically no videos or guides showing this with the newer model, and it differs pretty substantially from the earlier models for which videos and guides abound. So, without further ado: Removing the tank fairings on the 2018+ MT07! First, remove the seats. Screws 1 and 2 are at the base of the seat - release the passenger seat, then remove these two screws, and remove the seat. Next, remove the screws on the sides of the scoops: Then the screws at the front of the scoops. Note, only the marked screws (one on each side) not the silver screws. Then you can pop the scoops off. Pull out at the bottom first to release the big pins in the rubber grommets (see photos) then pop out the clips along the top of the scoop. Because you've taken the pins on the bottom out first, you can tilt the bottom of the scoop away from the bike just a little bit to help pop the top clips out (note their shape) - only tilt the scoop a little, you don't want to snap the clips off! Be gentle. With the clips, I find it helps to start at the rearmost one, and pop them out one at a time working forward. Now you've got the scoops off, there's just 4 more screws to go and you're done. First, pop the two screws off the top of the tank, just forward of the filler: Then the two screws at the front of the fairing: And it's free! There are no more screws or clips, you can pull the centerpiece and both side colored panels off as a single unit. You may need to pull the seat-side bottom edges out a bit (it sits on rubber bumpers attached to the chrome bracket that holds the back of the tank down, so you have to lift the edges of the fairing out over those bumpers) and the front edges by the forks need to be worked around cables. Just gently work the cover off, and voila! I hope this helps someone. The first time I did this, I took out WAY WAY too many screws, silly pushpins, and other such stuff. In fact, the only reason you need to pop the scoops off is to get at the screws at the front of the fairing (11 and 12 above). If not for those two screws, you could take the whole fairing off - scoops and all - in a single piece.
  4. 11 points
    DISCLAIMER This was a summary of my experience following the shop manual. You should know that this is a procedure with major potential for damaging your engine if you do this incorrectly. What follows is intended to supplement the shop manual, not replace it. The shop manual is absolutely required for this service as it provides exact steps necessary and corresponding torque values for fasteners and heaps of other useful bits of information and helpful diagrams. Perform this service at your own risk. You should be familiar with taking apart your bike for other service before you begin. You should have a firm grasp of how an engine's valve train works to understand what you are doing and why. Tools/supplies you'll need: Yamaha's FZ07 factory service manual 7.48mm OD valve shims - buy a kit or exchange shims with a dealer/shop I used a Hot Cams HCSHIM01 kit. Amazon will say it doesn't fit an FZ07 and they are wrong. 1/4" drive torque wrench 3mm trimmed hex key for cam chain tensioner 2.5mm - 14mm hex drivers or keys 8mm - 13mm box wrenches 8mm - 19mm sockets 14mm deep socket for spark plugs 19mm socket for crankshaft nut (same size as front axle) 1/4" socket extensions, wobble Extendable magnet to pull spark plugs New cam chain tensioner gasket (if you want) New valve cover rubber gasket (if you damage the original one) Feeler gauges Vessel to contain drained coolant Big ass pliers for the coolant pipe spring clamps Philips screwdriver for worm hose clamps Plastic zip ties Air compressor to blow spark plug wells clean (optional) Funnel (optional if you're brave) Gasket sealant or grease (optional if your gasket behaves and stays in place) Procedure Drain coolant. Allow the coolant to drain while you complete the next steps. Remove plastic body work. Remove gas tank fasteners (1, 2), breather hoses (3), and front electronic sensor connection (4) Lift up gas tank to remove fuel pump connector (1), then lift and rotate gas tank counter clockwise and rest on cardboard on the frame. Rest the aluminum bendy tabs back where they were fastened, and the black steel portion on the cardboard. Whatever direction you twist it, be sure that when you replace it, you twist the opposite direction. You could remove the tank if you'd like but that requires removing the fuel line from the tank. Now that the coolant has drained, replace the drain bolt and begin removing the radiator. Remove the fairings, radiator guard (if equipped), and the single bolt on the throttle side (1). The radiator hands on 1 rubber grommet on the clutch side, 1 rubber grommet near the triple tree, and the single bolt you just removed. There's an inlet hose on the top clutch side, an outlet hose on the bottom throttle side, and the small overflow line near the cap. Remove each of these lines however you wish - I removed the bike-side connections for each hose, not the radiator-side, but it doesn't really matter. Remove the horn's electrical connections (2), and the fan motor connection (3). The radiator probably has some residual coolant left, be ready with paper towels. Gently place it on some cardboard with the hose connections facing up (4). Remove the clutch cable guide (1). You're now ready to remove the spark plugs. Unplug each coil (1) and tape each plug to the frame so you remember which side is which! Pull the coils by hand only. Then pull the plugs using a 14mm deep socket and wobble extensions. When removing the coils and plugs, mark on a big sheet of cardboard which coil is which (2) so you know it all goes back together when it was removed from. If you're doing this service, I hope you've removed them once already and left yourself some silicone grease or similar on the rubber boot seal so they're not so hard to remove. Remove the crankcase breather hose (1). Remove valve cover bolts in a criss-cross pattern (1). Zip tie various wiring harnesses, cables, etc out of the way before you begin. Then wiggle and lever out the valve cover without damaging the rubber gasket (2). Place the valve cover gasket side up on cardboard. Remove the crankshaft end cover with 14mm hex driver, and remove riming mark access cover (1). Use 19mm socket and turn crankshaft counter clockwise until timing mark on flywheel aligns with mark on crankcase cover (2), and marks on intake cam sprocket (3) and exhaust cam sprocket (4) all align. Your engine should now be in the service position for valve check and adjustment. DO NOT TURN THE CRANKSHAFT ONCE YOU REMOVE THE CAM CHAIN TENSIONER. THIS WILL MISTIME YOUR ENGINE AND YOU WILL HAVE TO RETIME IT. By having 4 known reference points, the engine can be timed correctly if you make a mistake - ask me how I know. The reference points are, in order of verification: 1. timing mark on flywheel/crankcase (crankshaft position), 2. piston #1 (clutch side) at TDC of compression stroke (you can place something gently through spark plug hole to rest on the piston crown and turn the engine to visualize the peak of travel when the timing mark is aligned incidating TDC of compression stroke), 3. the intake camshaft timing alignment mark (parallel with head edge), 4. the exhaust camshaft alignment mark (parallel with head edge). Now you're ready to begin checking the valve clearances. If you haven't done so already, plug the spark plug holes and the coolant output hose (1). Note that the lobes of piston #1 (clutch side) are not engaging the valve lifters ("buckets") at all. Slide the feeler gauges between the buckets and the cam lobes to measure the clearance (2). Intake should be 0.11-0.20 mm, exhaust should be 0.24-0.30 mm. You're looking for something between "no-go" and "slides right through". The gauge should kind of "stick" in-between the two. You'll "feel" what I mean - that's why they're called feeler gauges. Begin writing these down on a diagram that is explicitly clear which piston is which, and which valve is which. When you're sure of the measurement, rotate the crankshaft 270 degrees counter clockwise and measure piston #2. You could use one of those paper angle wheels or if you're like me you don't have one. I just very gently placed a long hex wrench through the spark plug hole onto the piston crown and rotated what felt like 270 degrees until I saw the piston's peak of travel visualized by the hex wrench beginning to go back down (3). If you do this do not let the angle of the hex wrench catch underneath the camshaft caps! Measure the clearance just as piston #1 and record. If your valves are all within spec, you're done! Put everything back together by following the steps in reverse order. If not, proceed to adjustment.
  5. 10 points
    Finished up my 2020 modifications for this year’s track season, if it ever starts Only performance mod was the addition of the Akrapovic Ti exhaust. The sound is intoxicating. This is now paired with the Power Commander 5 (with a great tune) MWR Air Filter and lid, and Heal Tech Quick Shifter. This years main mod was the addition of a front fairing number plate and new colors. The number plate is from S2 Concepts, it for a FZ-09, I really liked the look. Quality is decent for a fiberglass part and it arrived quickly from France. I had to modify the mounting brackets or make it fit. Got a knock off rear seat cowl, was advertised as a used genuine Yamaha parts, it wasn’t. The seller was cool and sent me a refund when I pointed it out, so I wound up paying $25. Overall it wasn’t too bad quality wise. The only thing I didn’t like was the soft collapsible rubber strip. I made a foam insert for it and now it’s nice and firm. Also got some nice Woodcraft case savers to to replace my old RG ones. I decided to try Vinyl Wrapping for the first time. I’m happy with the results. I also got a vinyl cutter for Christmas, so I made the logos and numbers too. I was originally going to do a full FZ-07R glass kit but decided to go with the naked or semi faired look. pgeldz has had an influence on me Ed
  6. 10 points
    Even though this is a promo, I find it interesting as a roadracing fanatic I thought I'd share: I hope you enjoy it.
  7. 9 points
    We had the opportunity through Darren James to work with Trevor up at Flexi-glass on new bodywork for the FZ07 and MT07. The quality of the kit is amazing. The tank is molded off the FZ07 stock tank and uses the stock mounting locations without the flex or need for additional bracing of other kits on the market. Utilizing the current ZX10R wind screen. Bodywork is 2.0”narrower to avoid dragging and clearanced to avoid the exhaust in the lower. The mounting kit will be built by Robem and available on the website. Flexi-glass is proudly made in Canada with premium products. Cost estimated $800 upper, lower, tail, tank cover and fender plus shipping.
  8. 9 points
    So I picked this up from a buddy, (read confiscated, lol) to build another racebike for a friend who says to me, "can you replicate your bike but with any upgrades or changes you'd make after racing yours for 4 seasons?". Hmm, says I, let me look into this. A few texts and late nite calls to some track friends and vendors and we're off and running. Pulled the motor and head for shipment to Zoran at TWF Racing, Looks like another excellent starting point. Getting the head ported, Web cams, valve job, bored throttle bodies. Ordered all the bits n pieces to have a ball both in the shop building it and on the track enjoying it. $6,000 not counting suspension bits, machine work, shipping and cost of the bike. So, yeah it's not cheap but it'll be an affordable option to the full on MotoAmerica builds at double or more the cost. This bike, like mine, should be able to make the grid in any MotoAmerica Twins Cup event, and podium at any club racing event under the right rider. Got some fun and high tech things in the works from Matt at Robem Engineering and from Brandon at Trackside Labs to bookend the motor Zoran is helping with. Stay tuned for V2. Fun.
  9. 9 points
    I wish I had documented the progress as I went. Better late than never.... I can honestly say that I'm "done" modding my FZ-07. I'm 50 years old, I a neck fusion done a few years ago. That made riding my KTM RC390 on the track impossible, as I couldn't lift my head up high enough to see where I was going . I needed a bike with a more upright riding position. I ordered a KTM Duke 390, and pulled the "go-fast" parts off my RC (to but on the new Duke). After several missed deliver dates, I bought a brand new "carry-over" 2016 Yamaha FZ-07 instead (two weeks before my first track day of the 2017 season). In hindsight, I'm glad the deliver dates got missed. I have never been as happy with ANY bike in the last 40+ years of riding. This bike was mostly going to be used on the track. I did sometimes street ride it though. This year the bike is my dedicated track-only bike. I didn't even license it for 2020, as I picked up a new 2019 Yamaha R3 for the street last fall. My neck can tolerate the surprisingly neutral riding position of the R3 on the street. Here's a list of all the mods I've done over the last three years, as well as some pictures. Let me know what you think . - Dunlop Q3+ (front & rear) - K-Tech Razor-R shock - Racetech springs and Gold Valve fork emulators - Preload adjusters for the forks - Hordpower intake - Akrapovic Ti exhaust - 2WDW ECU flash - Speigler braided brake lines (front & rear) - Woodcraft rear sets - Woodcraft water pump slider - Vortex 520 chain & sprockets - T-Rex crash protection (full kit) - Renthal "ultra-low" bars - Tech spec tank grippers - OEM Yamaha seat cowl - "Engine Ice" coolant - Cheap Ebay windshield (used as a number plate) *required at some track days* I'm probably forgetting a few things as well? It took me a while to get the suspension set-up correctly, but it was worth it! I've never been happier on a track as I am on this bike. I had a lot of fun putting all this together. I'm too far into bike to ever sell it. Last summer I was offered $10K for it (from a guy with too much money). I politely declined-
  10. 9 points
    Well, we've been at the track all weekend again. This time we were graced by Andy Palmer and 2018 Twins Cup champion Chris Parrish. They were testing an AP MotoArts FZ07r with the full metal MotoAmerica spec. We were able to arrange a head to head race in Super Twins between our local hotshots on our hotrods and Parrish on AP's fastest in MotoAmerica equivalent. Wow what a race! In fairness it was Parrish's first time at BIR and on Andy's ride. I had our local Dunlop tire rep and track hotshoe Brett Donahue (@TenRacing) ride my bike. Also present were ex AMA pro and track instructor Curt Schushke (FZ07r pilot), track record holder in lightweight twins and fellow MotoAmerica competitor Jon Champ (SV650) mounted, past #1 plate holder Brian Hebiesen (SV650), PR Stafki on his gorgeous RC-51 and a host of other fast dudes. Wait for it... JR Hiebert checked out on his 1299 Duc of course. Parrish and Donahue battled back and forth for second after dispensing with the rest of the field. Parrish finished second posting a best lap of 1:42.5 on Andy's rocket; and Brett in third posting a best lap of 1:42.9 on Blue Line Racings home built FZ07r. Not bad! We didn't knock the big kids down but we did bloody their nose a bit. What fun! It was rewarding to see my club racing machine dance with a skilled partner and hold its own against arguably the best pro-twin there is. Thanks to everyone that played in the sandbox and best part, we get to do it again tommorow.
  11. 8 points
    Started stripping the bike down for some more custom parts. I'll try machining a new top triple with it's main purpose to allow standard clipons to mount a half inch higher than with the stock triple. I plan to revisit my ram-air intake which will most likely require a custom fuel tank. The bike is going full track, so lights will be removed and the upper fairing lowered to accomidate the lower clipon position. As usual, this thread will be updated as I go so you guys can witness any fails, but hopefully more success.
  12. 8 points
    We've been busier than a one legged man in an ass kicking contest but wanted to respond to Matt's post. I can't say enough about using these great forum vendors as resources instead of the cut rate cheesey hacks on eBay or Amazon to help with your projects. The level of support is second to none. I got daily texts and phone calls checking on progress, help problem solving, trouble shooting and technical advice that is simply non existent with the chinese/online/sell it cheaper crap dealers. These folks spend countless hours and dollars to develop and test their products, technique's and knowledge to give the rest of us what we seek. We, in turn, need to support them and not the peddlers of cheap knock offs and copies who forsake you as soon as your creditcard clears. I guarantee you'll never receive a phone call from China to trouble shoot your issue at 0530 trackside on a Sunday like from these guys! Blue Line Racing
  13. 8 points
    Been having fun. this bike is very trail capable. Beat this thru the muddy trails at 6000 ft above Boise in the rain and it took everything I gave it and keep wanting to go faster. This was up in Stanley, Idaho at the trailhead
  14. 8 points
    Well the Road America round is officially a 'Go' the end of this month and I've assembled a team of the finest pittards in the business. We'll run this round as a 2 bike team so I can get it adjusted to it's new owner and get the suspension dialed in. Our plan is to run nose to tail right to the front of the grid. What could possibly go wrong, right? The bike is done, The best thing that could happen now is he beats us on it while beating on it. I think we're in deep trouble. What I do know is that we're gonna have a GREAT time finding out! Sorry in advance to all the other competitors that will have their dreams shattered and go home wabbing, lol. BLR Edit: added a strobe,
  15. 8 points
    Aaron wheeled in on his R6 to turn wrenches this morning. Really nice to have a second pair of hands to do bodywork. This pic should give a good idea of the speeds I'm capable of generating, Got V2 put together, Fired it up, (make sure you plug your crank position sensor into the correct plug) Took both girls out for a run, She's a monster no doubt. Neighbors seemed a little unimpressed so we parked them after a few laps. The Leo Vince can on mine sounds crazy! I wasn't going to paint it but now I'm thinking I'll put tape lines on it and see if the body shop down the road will shoot me some cheap paint. Either something outrageous or plain white and the new owner can wrap it, paint it or whatever. Of course I'll have to swap motors yet when I get his done.
  16. 8 points
    TB's came in and these showed up, Custom valved K Tech DDS lite shock and 20IDS cartridges in re-built stock forks to stay with the budget(ish) build, This is gonna be bad ass fast n fun
  17. 8 points
    So the SV650 subframe is completed should be starting the FZ-07 subframe next week. Here is a couple photos of the project so far just so people can stay interested.
  18. 8 points
    I've been fiddling around with bodywork today, nothing serious, just trying to get the lines right. Tank is a MV brutale which works fine with the throttle bodies and gives me plenty of room for the airbox. Tail is CBR but I'll probably make something up that suits it better. I've got a RCS and some M50 brembos ready to go on and next week I'm going to strip the loom and have a go at making a race loom.
  19. 8 points
    We have wheels! I'm well pleased with this. The wheels are only loosely bolted on so that I can move the bike around but I love the stance and proportions. Hopefully things will move on fairly quickly now. The race engine build is pretty much there, just waiting on the cams. Slipper clutch has arrived and some fresh gaskets.
  20. 8 points
    Ok ok, here ya go...this better?
  21. 8 points
    Business is good and we keep taking more and more orders for parts and helping with some really neat projects with people. Here’s the catch... at this moment we have a couple big projects to build for the coming MotoAmerica series that will need significant attention in the form of complete MA twins bikes For a couple weeks I’m going to have to turn down any custom work or building any items for customer that are currently of stock until after we complete the bikes for customers. I won’t be taking deposits for parts I can’t ship in a timely manner unless you want to arrange to it by email through the website. This is just a note for the community, we want to provide not only nice custom parts but a great experience as well. As many of you know I do this mostly for the love of the sport and it’s definitely not what pays my bills. Thanks for your understanding.
  22. 8 points
    Hey guys! I'm really trying to make this happen! Just to give you some background of how this all came about in the first place... It all started out of necessity to race my FZ-07 instead of my R3. One of my targets is to race at the Pro level one day in MotoAmerica. For a guy who was paralyzed and couldn't walk 9 years ago, it's a pretty big target - not only to prove to myself I can reach that level, but to show it's never too late to follow your dreams, no matter what adversity someone as been through. I was pretty successful with R3 at the club level, but there age limits in MotoAmerica for the Junior Cup class which makes me ineligible. I already had the FZ-07 so it was a more cost effective way to try and race at that level since I didn't have to buy another bike. When I set out to transform it into a racing machine, I wanted to partner up with the same companies I used in building my other bikes - The R3, XSR900, and Ducati Monster S4RS, pictured here: I originally wanted my FZ-07 to be naked, but the need to remove the stock plastic intakes to make clearance for clip-ons meant that something custom would have to be done to fill that space. After looking at what would be involved in making new air intakes that would allow room for clip-ons lock to lock, I decided to go another route. I figured I could use what's already out there for the tank cover, because that inherently would allow me to use clip ons. I've always liked the Paolo Tex body pieces for the Ducati Mosters, and since he made me a special one-off ALL CARBON version for my Cafe Replica Koncept above, I wanted a way to thank him. What a better way to say thanks then to use his race version nose piece and long belly pan. The race version nose piece looked like it would pair well with FZ-07 race tail section that's readily available, so I did some mock ups and was like, WoW, that works! However I quickly learned that the sides of the nose piece don't jive well with the angle of the FZ-07's radiator. I set out to fix it and ended up extending the sides to match the angles of the FZ-07, trimmed the shark fins to a flat finish, and really liked the end result. The nose piece overall is very tight, but there is clearance everywhere and the fit looks like a tailored suit when it's all in place. Since the nose piece has an inside ledge so to speak, we took advantage of that and built the fairing stay to accommodate, so the nose piece actually sits in place on it's ledge and then bolts right up. The bellypan however, was NOT going to work...AT ALL. When put in place approximately where it would sit, the oil drain bolt was in front of the bellypan! I basically hacked up the Paolo Tex belly pan so I could match the angles and styling, but made one from scratch so it would have that same tailored fit as the reworked nose piece. With all that fitted up, I realized there was just enough surface area to design a new livery (as opposed to a naked bike with hardly any real estate). Problem is, for long logos like my Tarmac Faction race team logo, the only place is really on the bellypan. But even then since it's way longer than it is tall, it kinda runs into the bellypan number plate. Because the design is very angular to begin with, I exploited that and figured I can extend the bottom of the tail unit to make surface area for my logo. Originally I was going to actually extend the tail unit and bolt it to where the passenger footrest brackets are, but then quickly realized that's 4 more bolts to remove when taking the tail on and off which holds the exhaust support and rear shock external reservoir mount...no thanks. I came up with a different approach, and made panels that bolt to those supports, but just tuck underneath the tail. Much simpler way to do it and everything can stay in place when you take the tail off now. So with everything ironed out, here is where I'm at... 1) Tank cover - readily available thru Altus Motorsports or Sharkskins 2) Tail Unit - readily available thru Altus Motorsports or Sharkskins 3) Tarmac Faction reworked Paolo Tex race nose piece - 2 complete units finished. One is on my bike, and the other is a spare. 4) Tarmac Faction bellypan - 2 complete units. One is on my bike, and the other is a spare. It's a repeatable part since the mold is made, and can make more on demand. 5) Tarmac Faction fairing stay, with provision for factory gauge cluster and AIM Solo 2 lap timer - One is made and on my bike, and material for 2 others to be made. 6) Tarmac Faction side extension panels - One set made, and easily repeatable. I still need to take my spare nose piece and have a mold made so it can be repeatable. I also have to take off the fairing stay that's on my bike, and have 2 more made with the material I have (one for a spare and the other to send off and have mass produced). Once that's done, I think making a kit would be a no brainer. I need to do this stuff ANYWAY for ME, so I have spares in case of a crash, so it WILL happen. The only thing is, how many people are interested in this sorta kit? For me, it started as me wanting clip ons and also wanting to thank Paolo, in addition to wanting control over availability of parts (racers HATE waiting on parts). From there it took on another concept in my head...can I make a custom racing prototype with unique styling and actually race it at the Pro Level? We are gonna find out! - Paul
  23. 8 points
    I really took my time doing this and tried to document it as best I could. I hope this helps someone. If you've read this far, you should know that I'm not an expert so I apologize if I got something wrong above - hence the disclaimer at the start. But I did follow the manual to the letter, and my machine did indeed start up and runs just fine after the procedure. I will say that I actually screwed up and turned the crankshaft before I put the chain tensioner on (like an idiot!), so I had to retime the engine using the alignment marks without the aid of my witness marks. But my motor didn't blow up in the end!
  24. 8 points
    When I get back from the track later in the week I'll put a how to up for a rotor upgrade. We did a 3 hour endurance race today. Finished 4th in class (9) and 13th overall of 23 teams. I'll take that. We ran out of gas 100 yards from the finish line at the checkered flag and coasted across dead in the water, lol. Just like we planned it Our team, that's me, Tony and Nate, each on our own bikes. We led or were in second for first half of the race before a red flag and restart. Then started to falter a bit. Oh well, had a blast. More racing tommorow and a track day Monday, woot!
  25. 7 points
    I picked up a leftover 2019 MT-07 with 0 miles otd price $7167. $5999 before taxes and all the other dealer fees and registration.
  26. 7 points
    MotoAmerica TwinsCup Road America Round 2 Race Report Round number 2 seemed promising having already turned laps with the previous two-race weekend last month and set up notes still fresh in our minds. Darren James once again was incapacitated for travel with the border travel restrictions we would have to make due once again with a full Suzuki effort. The bikes had recently spent some time on the dyno and were looking healthy for round #2 in the land of cheese and brats. Velocity Calibrations had freshly serviced the forks for both Jackson and Toby after the first round with Toby wanting to make some adjustments we couldn’t accommodate during round one. First Practice saw pace much slower than previous race pace as to be expected with the cooler weather at 09:10 around the 4-mile course but in line with the pace of other riders on course, time for lunch. With looming rain and weather looking clear the rest of the weekend we mounted rain tires while debating the merit of Q1 being able to provide any transferable data to Q2 or the race. The consensus was to put the warmers on the slicks and come in partway through Q1 if rain approached vs burning tire stickers and leaving us to run a scrub in either Q2 or the race with only 3 tire stickers left for the weekend. Q1 saw the riders increasing lap times versus the morning practice, with few riders improving much if at all. With environmental conditions deteriorating we retired to Parc fermé hoping drier conditions would allow the riders to push times in tomorrow’s Q2. Q2 was hotter with the pace being pushed quicker and quicker with Kaleb and Rocco leading a charge during the session. When the dust had settled the riders had put in a respectable effort qualifying with Jackson Blackmon on the front row in #3 position, Toby Khamsouk on row three in #7 position and the Doctor himself Carl Price on row five in the #14 position for the 10:20 race on Sunday. Race time on Sunday for the twins was the first race of the day. Prepared for a scorching pace based on the flier put in by Rocco in qualifying the riders took to the grid with eight laps to contest in the Wisconsin sun. All riders got away with a clean start with Jackson slotting into 3rd and Toby in 5th going into turn 1 at the start of the race. Jackson had a misstep halfway through the race that left him on the sideline and eventually in the pits with the rest of the team to watch the remainder of the race with the team to cheer on Toby and Carl. Toby in the mix with 5 riders vying for the final position on the podium with 4 riders driving to the finish out of the last turn with Toby crossing in 6th position. Carl not to be outdone by his younger teammates bested his personal best by almost 2 seconds completed the race in the 12th position. Congratulations to all the twinscup competitors and we will be back on the bikes in the Georgia heat at the end of July before you know it.
  27. 7 points
    So we're in the game with both bikes at Road America. After P1 and Q1 today Shawn sits in 9th, Tony in 12th, not bad. Tomorrow is Q2 and we'll have to dig deep to defend or move up on the grid. We're right in the middle of @Spatt 's crew of 3 filthy fast Suzuki's. Best racing story ever happens near the end of Q1. Shawn is working hard to gain a spot or two on an iffy track and low sides outta T3 in front of a big cheering crowd. He pops up but the controls are damaged so can't continue and takes a bow for the appreciative fans. While Shawn is waiting for the crash truck to pick him up a guy and his wife ask for a photo to which he dutifully obliges. Helmet off, best pro pose, big smile, arm around the gentleman's wife and while her husband snaps the pic she says to him, "Why not grab the titties, you earned it". The whole crowd roars as the husband throws Shawn an ice cold PBR for his effort. Gotta luv racing.
  28. 7 points
    Hi all, I'm a new member and still figuring my way around this site, however I would like to share my MT07 Turbo, if anyone has any questions I will try my best to be of help. Dyno results are with stock internals and 6lb of boost
  29. 7 points
    So we loaded up the truck and we went to Beverly... Rain for move in Thursday afternoon. The rest of the time was perfect. Things were going well.. But of course Tony wanted new controls on one side of the bike. I wish he'd have just asked, lol. No biggie. PR's every session after practice and dialing in the new bike and owner... That's Tony, Daniel, Nate, @cornerslider, the lovely old bird, ass, Travis, Char and Shawn the new owners. What a great time with great folks. Baby getting her first new pair of shoes.. They bonded and went fast right off w/o any of the drama Tony created. Bike is fast, better handling and with better suspension than mine. I think she and Shawn will be a wrecking ball around race tracks. Good for them. We went 14th/15th in race 1, 15th/16th in race 2. We'll take it. Caught up with some old friends, made some new ones and had a great time. BLR leaves you with this thought, Be safe everyone, it's a crazy world out there.
  30. 7 points
    With most states issues "Shelter In Place" or "Stay Home" orders, we know times are tough and that people are going to have a lot of free time on their hands. Because of that, we are officially announcing reduced pricing on ALL of our Mail-In ECU Flashing services starting NOW! Just like all of these new orders, we're leaving this sale pretty much open ended. Almost all of our ECU Flashing services will be only $249.99, with free return shipping anywhere in the USA, through April, BUT we will extend it if neccessary! That's $100 OFF our full retail price . USE THE COUPON CODE "covid19" during checkout at 2wheeldynoworks.com to take advantage of the largest discount we have EVER offered. We know that many riders are going to be doing a lot of their "isolating" on their bikes and taking advantage of the empty roads and a complete lack of traffic . We want to make sure that your bike is unrestricted, and as perfectly dialed in as possible, so you can maximize the enjoy of your throttle therapy during this crazy time! We are maintaining our commitment to flash and return ship ECUs the SAME DAY that we receive them. Our shop is STILL OPEN and fully operational, and we are always happy to help however we can. Please don't hesitate to reach out to us via email, phone or text if you have any questions!
  31. 7 points
    Thought I would post my review of Hordes Airbox upgrade. I am really, really pleased with the upgrade. As far as power mods are concerned, I am coming from a 2WDW flash w/ Yosh Carbon and snorkel delete. I am going to be honest, I was a little disappointed after the exhaust and flash. I think my expectations may have been a bit high. The bike certainly felt better but I couldn't say that I felt the extra power. The bike seemed smoother and my mpg took a serious hit. Despite investing a grand in exhaust and flash I was seriously considering taking the hit and trading it in for a bike (MT-09) with a bit more power. Before I resorted to such drastic measures I pulled the trigger on the intake upgrade. Supposedly the airbox upgrade is worth about 4hp, about half of what I should have gained with the exhaust and flash alone. I sent my ecu back to Nels for the update and got to work installing Horde's intake. Installation wise, it is a mother to get the factory airbox out. I'm sure it is possible to remove it cleanly but I didn't have much luck. The process put some pretty large scratches in the airbox plastic. Since it was already scratched up I ended up just cutting it out. If I ever go back to stock (I won't) I'll need to purchase another airbox. Once the factory airbox was out, installing Hordes system was mostly straightforward. The tolerance on the mounting bracket could be better. You need to be really careful not to cross thread bolts through the bracket. The bracket (at least mine) wanted to pitch the bolts up. Horde should consider elongating these holes a little more before getting the bracket anodized. Once the airbox is in I went ahead and re-synced my throttle bodies. They were off quite a bit and I'm sure it was due to the airbox as I had just synced them a week or two ago as part of the 4k mile service. If you go this route make sure you sync the TBs. The good news is with the airbox gone, getting at the vac lines is a piece of cake. It was possible to sync the TB without removing anything (despite what Jake the Gardensnake would have you believe) with enough patience. With the airbox replaced with horde's setup it is literally a 5 minute job. This installation was done a good two weeks ago. Today the weather was warm enough (45f) to get a ride in. I have to say I am really really impressed. The bike now feels how I expected it to feel with just the exhaust and flash. I took the bike over to a county highway and pinned it through all 6 gears. I didn't realize the front wheel was floating until it touched pavement again in 4th gear. The bike feels fantastic. Logically the 4hp gain the intake therotically provided shouldn't have accounted for this much of a performance gain, but I can't otherwise explain it. Perhaps Nels tune with the Yosh on my bike wasn't spot on but now the tune with the airbox + the yosh is? Not sure but the whole bike woke up. I'll be hanging on to the bike now for a few more seasons I suspect.
  32. 7 points
    So surprise to me midnight black is black with blue flake. Guess next time I should take the paint chips outside and look at in daylight and not the fluorescent lights definitely nicer than the oe paint but not as nice as if I had let Parrish or someone more skilled than myself paint it.
  33. 7 points
    Almost 1 year ago we built our first subframe for the FZ07. I never really like the way it worked and the plugs that went into the tubes. I know others have since made other solutions that I found equally difficult or more so to install or service. The original design was 3 pieces allowing to replace any item that bent separately and also allow the subframe to be installed without each part being in tension. I still never really loved the design and only built a few. Move forward a year. Going to try and add plugs to weld to the frame and allow the entire piece to be removed as one unit. So far I've machined the aluminum part for the subframe side and working on the steel slugs with matching interlocks. We will test it on our SV's first but I think I can pass it along also to the FZ riders if all goes as planned.
  34. 7 points
    Quick report for my newest upgrade. I managed to score an Ohline STX46 (YA419) second hand which I've just used to replace my Bitubo XZE11 which I also bought second hand, and wanted to give a quick comparo for those considering either of these upgrades. For reference, I am 72kg / 160 pound without gear, and use the bike every day for commuting to and from work in the city. Once a fortnight I'll take the bike out into the hills for some spirited riding. I found the standard front end fairly harsh but OK, and the standard rear very harsh and lacking in rebound damping. Both would be sorted. Over here in Australia shocks pretty much never come up for sale for these bikes and when they do, they're gone in an hour so you have to be quick. Which is how I intially ended up with a Bitubo XZE11. It was the first shock in months that had appeared on the second hand market and so when it appeared for sale in one of the local groups, I grabbed it straight away. It had the "standard" 120 spring installed. I wasn't quite able to get the correct sag numbers as I suspect the 120 spring is still too high for my weight. I emailed Bitubo asking for the recommended weight range for the 120 spring and they never replied (great support there guys...). Either way, the improvements to ride quality were immediately felt and the bike was transformed. It wasn't much smoother than stock (harshness when hitting small bumps) but the rebound damping was substantionally better and vastly improved the bikes stablity while cornering. I found myself attacking the corners now rather than bouncing through them and it really made the bike so much more fun to ride. In saying that, I was hoping for a smoother ride as well, since my commute is riddled with bumps and manholes and dodgy bitumen joins everywhere so I still felt myself avoiding the known obstacles along the way. Very large dips in the road at higher speeds could also throw me up off the seat a bit but not like the standard shock did. I was really happy with the improvements so I went and installed some Cogent DDC's in the front. They've been great. Improved ride quality and performance overall, but then again the front was never "that" bad for me. However I felt that the front and rear weren't quite balanced with each other. Bumps that the front absorbed, the rear transferred sharply and where the front would move with the road surface, the rear resisted it a little more. The impression was that the rear end was set up to be more sporty than the front, and for my type of riding too sporty overall. I thought a spring change might help (something lighter than the 120) but I assumed that it would also be the compression damping. Since the shock cost me $500AUD, spending another $200 on a spring and then whatever it might cost to have it revalved would mean I could have just bought a brand new shock and specified it to my liking by the manufacturer, so I kept it as it was. Then an Ohlins STX46 popped up on the second hand market (the second used shock I'd seen in 6 months) for $100 more than the Bitubo, at $600AUD. I'd read that the Ohlins was more "street" focussed rather than track, where I suspect the Bitubo is more track focussed. The Ohlins also has a slightly lighter spring at 115. Knowing I could sell the Bitubo for what I bought it for I figured it was only an extra $100 and in the worst case I have a nicer coloured spring that's slightly lighter in weight. Well I can tell you the difference between the two is significant. The Ohlins is far smoother. Way smoother. It's exactly what I was hoping for when I first replaced the standard shock with the Bitubo. It eats up the sharp bumps even a little bit better than the front end now and has the same excellent level of control I got with the Bitubo but with a lot more compliance. The bike overall behaves much better as the front and rear really now work in unison and give the same response so it all feels much more balanced. The 115 spring might technically still be too heavy for my weight but I have no issues with at all and won't be changing it. I'm perfectly happy now and I will never replace the Ohlins. In summary. They're both great shocks and I don't have anything against the Bitubo, but it's definitely the more sporty of the two and would probably be great for much more aggresive riding and matched up with a set of cartridges. But for general street riding and daily commuting with some sporty riding on the weekends, the Ohlins with DDC's has me 100% satisfied so my suspension quest is over.
  35. 7 points
    Hi. I don't know if anyone is interested in this but I'm building a Supertwin race bike around a mt07 engine. Most of the rest of it is custom build although I'm using an aprillia swingarm and the headtube and front portion of an MV agusta frame. The side plates are billet alloy with adjustable swingarm pivot and the yokes are custom made with adjustable offset fitted to ohlins forks. Rear suspension will be bitubo r6 shock with a custom rocker link. The engine rules over here in Europe are much looser so I've modified the head to take 2mm oversized valves and I'm having the cams re-profiled. I've got wiseco pistons, modified for the larger valves. It'll have a modified generator and a slipper clutch. The throttle bodies have been bored to 41mm and they will be mounted on silicone 45 degree bends to allow a large airbox to be made under the tank cover. The tank, airbox, subframe and airtubes will all be hand made and at the moment I don't know what bodywork it will use. The aim is to finish it in March ready for this season. I'll post some pics of the progress so far.....
  36. 7 points
  37. 7 points
    Busy work in the shop today and the weather was nice to boot! Buttoning up motor connections, tidying up random paraphernalia, and looky here, The spare skins all patched up and ready for paint, look pretty good and are a direct replacement for the primary set. Went through the front calipers and new Motul 600 for them. Set the preload on the new steering head bearings. The rest of the glass going back on after an off season refresh, Ready to take some Suzuki scalps and run amok with the midpack mutts.
  38. 7 points
    I thought I'd do a quick budget build with some parts I have laying around my shop with my wife's street FZ07. Here's the donor in its current state. Pretty stock with the only addition being a Akropovic Titanium exhaust to give her some noise when riding to the office. Might also give me some reason to make some more street oriented parts for the FZ/MT bike. It'll be a pretty basic build as she mostly just uses it to ride to her office and has only done one track day. First goal will be simple ergo's and basic suspension.
  39. 7 points
    Top of the morning! Its a dreary Saturday here in VA so I figured it'd be good start to delve into the early stages of this build. Obviously, the first step was to strip the bike down to nothing more than a rolling chassis with the motor still in place. The hardest part of that undertaking was the damn OEM airbox... Once it was stripped, it was time to take a good look at the subframe and OEM brackets scattered all over the frame (all of it had to go). I wanted the seat line to be as parallel to the ground as possible, kinda like the Jigsaw Customs XSR700 tracker build But trying to work around the curved subframe with the end goal of having a seat line parallel to the ground seemed too much of a problem to be worth the effort: So I bought some .065" wall 3/4" carbon steel tubing for my upcoming version of the subframe. I had to hack a bunch of the OEM stuff off first though before I could get off to a good start... Once the upper rails of the subframe and a good portion of the OEM brackets were gone, I took a few measurements, coped the 3/4" tubing, and got to welding. I went ahead and buffed down the passenger footpeg bosses, welded the holes up, and then blended them nicely into the frame as well: To satisfy any curiosity, if you've noticed the red tie-down straps, they were used in leveling off the bike side to side along with measurements from two equal points on the frame to the top triple clamp, so I could get the bike to stand as square as possible, which in turn would translate over to the new subframe top rails being as square as possible. It just required two holes to be drilled (one into my workbench frame, and one into a wall stud of my shed), two ratchet straps, a torpedo level, and a keen eye. Here's a better look at my home-made leveling rig Once I got all that squared away (no pun intended), I finished removing what was left of the sock subframe, and added a new cross member of the same 3/4" tubing mentioned earlier: Not being satisfied with the OEM crossmember of the subframe directly above the rear shock and still showing the passenger footpeg bosses on the INSIDE lower portion of the subframe, I decided to clean up that area as well. After removing the OEM crossmember, i left the 2 lower bosses and welded a 1/4" piece of round stock between the two for a cleaner and more simple looking crossmember: Once that was all said 'n done, the FZ had a nicer, clean looking subframe: After I knocked out a good portion of the subframe modification, that allowed me to start preparing for the seat pan/tail section. I sourced a huge sheet of .090" thick 5052 aluminum for the seat/tail section from a local metal supplier/machine shop. Luckily I've known the owners for a good while, so material costs have been pretty minimal so far. The first order of the seat pan/tail was to figure out the proper length and width dimensions. Width-wise the seat pan doesn't exceed the subframe rails which reach 7 1/2" at their widest point just before reaching the rear crossmember, with a very slight taper traveling towards the front of the bike. I kept the seat pan square because the taper is so minimal it wouldn't have been worth the effort in trying to mirror the taper angle on the seat pan. Once I had a 7 1/2"x28" sheet of 5052 cut, I marked 7 1/2" inwards from the rear edge, and made a slight scribe using a grinder and cutting wheel, and made the first bend with my 18" Harbor Freight manual press brake (if you don't scribe the material you're using, even if its really thin stuff, that brake doesn't do much bending). Luckily, the upwards angle of the tail's bottom was pretty spot on with what I had wanted, so that's all it took: With the base of the tail/seat pan up 'n running, next on the list is getting the shape of the tail roughed in. For the most part I just had an idea in my head, and just started cutting and bending material until I got the shapes I was happy with. Surprisingly, the lower side pieces I bent for the tail started out as just a piece of scrap that I originally just wanted to practice bending using the brake. Unbeknownst to me had I had coincidentally bent the scrap piece to go with the tail perfectly. After realizing this, I reverse-engineered the scrap piece, used it as a template, marked where the bends were, and voila had the lower portion of the tail fabbed up by luck! Once I had those members made, I cut and shaped the middle portion of the tail and tacked it in place: After that it was pretty much just cutting and shaping off of the top of my head, making sure left and right pieces mirrored each other and everything was equal when measuring from the center on outwards: After the tail was pretty much assembled and welded, I had a bunch of welds to buff and blend in. And where I wanted a nice contour on the tail I had to add a decent amount of metal so there was enough material to work with without removing much, if any of the base material. Also, when welding 5xxx series of aluminum I use 5356 filler rod (you can use 4043 filler rod as well, I just prefer 5356) and 100% UHP argon for the shielding gas: The process involved using a cutting wheel, various grit levels of flapper discs, and you guess it, a Harbor Freight hand sander to achieve smooth transitions of all the faces on the tail: And here's the Marco Simoncelli CB1100 TR tribute bike where I got a lot of influence for the tail and the idea for the lip on the rear of the tail (probably one of the best looking bikes I've ever laid eyes on): Anyways theres more for another day! Hope you guys enjoy. Feel free if you have any questions! Austin
  40. 7 points
    Here is a photo I took in of Area 51. I think I can just make out @pgeldz's bike starting a speed run up the runway .
  41. 7 points
    My experience, I sent 2WDW the ECU's from my 19 MT07 and my 17 SV650 during their thanksgiving sale. I'm very happy with both reflashes to match my aftermarket exhausts. They received them and turned them around back to me in short order. I used to go the PCV route but was having trouble finding a good dyno shop and going w/autotune seemed pricey. I'm sticking with 2WDW.
  42. 7 points
    We decided to support the members on FZ-07.org that might be building bikes for the track. The FZ-07 is an expensive bike to set up for the track and needs a lot of attention to get it all sorted (read $$$). Our products are the most widely used of any in the MotoAmerica twins cup championship. We are offering 10% off the entire site minus a-Racer products. At checkout add "fz07.org" to receive the discount. The whole Robem Engineering project is just a side business for the love of racing and motorcycles. We have further narrowed the focus to youth rider development, hoping to help riders moving from the Jr Cup transition to Twins Cup with the hope they will move on to bigger and better things. My full time gig is working as an Engineering Manager overseeing the design and manufacture of products for an International company at various sites around the globe. The production of parts are done in small batches in my shop based in Ohio.
  43. 7 points
  44. 7 points
    Adjustment Before beginning, your engine should be stone cold and in the service position with all marks aligned as detailed above. Recheck your valve clearances and be sure your measurements are correct. Annotate your findings as detailed above. Draw out a diagram of all eight valves separated by piston side and exhaust/intake side, and left/right side. Yamaha's suggestion is below (1). Calculate the hypothetical shim adjustment value. We will add this to the actual shim that's under the bucket to get the new shim size. An example is in the diagram above. Measured shim value - desired clearance = hypothetical shim adjustment Now we have to remove the cam chain tensioner, the cam chain, the camshafts, the valve lifters and shims, measure the shims, and replace the shims with the new correct shims. Begin by using a zip tie or mechanic's wire to secure the cam chain to the frame so it doesn't fall into the crankcase (1). Remove the cam chain tensioner next. Begin by removing the cover bolt on the cam chain tensioner (1). Then insert a 3mm hex key and begin twisting counter clockwise until it can't be turned anymore (2). This will retract the cam chain tensioner back into itself so that it relieves pressure applied to the cam chain. The hex key stays in the tensioner during this process. If it is removed, the tensioner will immediately SNAP back out, so keep the hex key in place! You might need a trimmed or short key to accomplish this (see the thread linked above), because the airbox will be in your way as you try to unfasten the 2 hex bolts that hold the tensioner onto the block, so you have to use a hex key instead of a ratchet + socket. But then the arm of the hex key can't reach over the inserted 3mm hex key unless the 3mm is trimmed down. Also, even when wound back completely, the tensioner will still be in contact with the chain, pressing back on the tensioner. That means as you remove the bolts, they may be under some tension. Take your time and don't force anything. Once you have the tensioner off the block, rest it gently on something soft and use a careful touch with the gasket if you plan on reusing it. REMINDER do NOT move the crankshaft now that the cam chain tensioner has been removed. If you do, the cam chain will skip teeth, moving the crankshaft out of time from the valve train. Mark the chain pins and sprocket teeth with corresponding witness marks (1, 2). Double check all 3 timing marks before you do this. This will be your target when reassembling. Begin removing the cam caps (1). Start with the intake cap, then the exhaust cap. Remove the bolts in a crisscross order working from the outside inwards. Crack the bolt loose then move on to the next diagonally. Then return to the first side and crack that one loose, go diagonally to the other side, then crack the middle bolt on the opposite side from where you started, then get the last one. I removed the bolts evenly, about 1/2 turn at a time for each bolt following that pattern. I'm not sure if that level of detail is necessary, but I can say you definitely need to be even removing the bolts. You want to avoid the cap bending at all. A bent cap will apply uneven pressure to the camshaft journals and ruin the camshaft and thus the engine. Remove the cam chain from the sprockets - make sure it is fastened to the frame so it doesn't fall into the crankcase! Then remove the camshafts and put them on something soft (1, 2). Now the valve lifters are exposed (1). Stuff a rag into the cam chain area to avoid anything falling into the crankcase (2). Identify the valve shims that need to be replaced. Work one valve at a time to avoid messing up which shim came from where. Pull the valve lifter and valve shim out with an extendable magnet (3). It should capture both the lifter and the shim. Be very, very careful that the shim does not fall into the engine - plug everything up! Working one valve at a time, take out the shim from the follower. The shims probably have the measurement laser etched into them, but you should still check with your calipers (1). Record the measurement of the existing shim into your diagram from earlier. Now that you've measured the existing incorrectly sized shim, calculate the new shim size (1,2). Add the hypothetical shim adjustment value calculated before to the measured shim size to get the correct shim size. Round it if necessary to get a size you actually have using the table below or your own judgement. When making this adjustment, bear in mind that you should be adjusting to the higher (looser) end of the specification range. The valve train will wear over time and make the clearance smaller and smaller until you need to do this again. Do yourself a favor and don't adjust the valve clearance to the smaller (tighter) end of the specification. (Measured clearance - Desired clearance) + Installed shim size = new shim size Coat the new valve shim with assembly lube (1) - the red stuff, technically speaking molybdenum disulfide based lubricant. Install the shim in the depression on the valve making absolutely sure the shim is in place square, not crooked (2). You'll feel it click into place. Coat the valve lifter ("bucket") with engine oil and replace over the shim you just installed. Then move on to the next valve that needs attention, repeating the process you just followed. When you're done replacing the valve shims, it's time to replace the camshafts, cam caps, cam chain, and cam chain tensioner. Then you'll check your work by rotating the engine, rechecking the clearances, and if you're satisfied, button it all back up. Start that process by placing the camshafts back where you found them. Begin with the exhaust camshaft (1). Put the timing mark parallel with the cylinder head again. Grab the chain and drape it over the sprocket, matching the witness marks you made on the chain pin and tooth. Two things are important here: 1. You need to make sure the chain is as tight as possible on the exhaust side while draping the chain over the exhaust camshaft sprocket; and 2. do not pull the chain hard enough to move the crankshaft! These are competing goals, so take your time here and be sure the marks all line up. Remember that the cam chain tensioner can only apply tension on one side (the intake side) of the cam chain, so that's why we are pulling the exhaust side tight without moving the crankshaft. Coat the camshaft cap journals and the camshaft journals with assembly lube (1,2 - ignore that the intake cam is in place in this photo!). Coat the cap bolts in engine oil. Replace the exhaust camshaft cap, pressing gently until the cap snaps into place. Be very careful placing the bolts into their holes, taking care not to drop them into the crankcase! Tighten the camshaft cap from the inside out (the opposite of when we removed it), tightening in stages so that it is evenly applied. Be sure your witness marks are aligned! It is very important that the caps are torqued evenly and properly. I finger-tightened them 1/2 turn at a time following the crisscross pattern described in the last post until they were all finger-tight. Then I got the 1/4" torque wrench and continued turning each 1/2 turn until they were all torqued properly. The mistake to be made here is unevenly tightening the caps and warping them slightly. My intake cap was actually slightly warped from the factory, but I compensated by tightening the lifted side an extra full turn before resuming the gradual 1/2 turn process. The cap bolts for both sides are to be torqued to 10Nm or 7.2 lbft. Install the intake camshaft, aligning the markings with the cylinder head edge (1). Again drape the chain over top of the sprocket, aligning your witness marks. Zip tie the chain to the intake sprocket by putting a tie through the holes in the sprocket. This is to ensure the chain doesn't skip as the intake cap and cam chain tensioner are being installed. Do not forget to cut these off when you're done, and when you do, do not let the tie fall into the crankcase! Replace the cam chain tensioner. It should still have the hex key inserted all the way, retracting the tensioner into itself. If it isn't retract it now by inserting a trimmed-down 3mm hex key and turning it counter clockwise until it stops (1). Make sure the gasket is attached with the protruding tab facing upwards and insert it into the block. Replace the 5mm hex bolts and begin tightening them down while the key is still inserted into the tensioner. Tighten them both to 10Nm or 7.2lbft. When you're certain the cap bolts are all torqued properly and that the alignment marks and witness marks are all aligned, go ahead and pull the hex key out. This will snap the actuator forward, tensioning the chain. This is what the zip ties were for. Once it's snapped out, cut the zip ties around the sprockets while holding the tie so they don't fall into the engine. Hopefully your chain didn't skip any teeth. Now that the camshafts are installed, the camshaft caps are installed, the cam chain tensioner is installed, and all of the marks are aligned, we can rotate the engine counter clockwise again. Turn it over maybe 5 times to spread the assembly lube and seat all of the parts. Now remeasure your clearances using the steps you followed earlier. The clearances should be as you calculated them unless you made a mistake measuring the first time. If something is wrong, now is the time to disassemble and make it right. If the clearances are as expected, turn the engine over a few more times until you're satisfied, and replace everything you removed. When replacing the valve cover, having all of the wiring zip tied up to the frame really helps. I had to dab some grease into the channel molded into the valve cover to get the gasket to stay put in the cover while finagling the cover over the head again. If you do this, apply it sparingly and wipe off any excess that smushes out of the sides. You should use gasket sealer to do this but I didn't want the rubber to stick permanently. To be clear, do not put any sealant between the rubber gasket and the cylinder head! That interface should be bone dry and clean. You'll have to push in one end of the cover, then pivot up the other end of the cover up and over the camshaft caps. The crankcase breather hose connection is a real bitch because it interferes with the useless long bolts on the ECU tray above the engine. Wear some gloves. When it's time to tighten the valve cover, tighten in stages to 10Nm or 7.2 lbft. Reinstall the crankshaft end cover making sure the rubber O-ring is clean (10Nm or 7.2lbft), and the timing mark access bolt (15Nm or 11lbft). Install the cam chain cover bolt (7Nm or 5.1lbft). Replace everything else you took off. Remember to twist your gas tank back the way it came, and don't forget to plug in the fuel pump, the air sensor (the plug on the front of the gas tank), the fan motor, and the ignition coils back to their original places. You just saved a few hundred bucks, and more importantly, you've earned your man card. Have a beer (or 4) to celebrate!
  45. 7 points
    Now that I'm done with the break-in, I was able to get a few good "spirited" rides in. The 790 is obviously more powerful than the 07 but it makes its power in the upper end of the tach. Low-speed torque actually seems to be better on the 07 but it could be due to other factors like the wheelbase (3 inches longer) and longer swingarm making it feel that way. The 790 doesn't want to wheelie nearly as much as the 07 does. Anti-wheelie intervenes in 1st and just a tad in 2nd. It'll power wheelie in 2nd and 3rd (cracking the throttle open quickly) with the system turned off. Throttle response gets twitchy at low speeds in Sport and Track modes but feels great when riding fast (duh?) so it becomes necessary to switch back to Street or Rain mode approaching lower speed limits to avoid looking like a bucking bronco through town. The quickshifter and auto-blipper are a joy to use. I've always been in the "they're cool but not needed on the street" camp but screw it, I'm a believer now. Banging perfect shifts and blips every single time and not needing to move your clutch hand or flick the throttle in the twisties just makes life better. The 790 will shift or blip any gear at just about any speed, throttle, and rpm. Quickly becoming my favorite feature on this bike. The stock suspension is surprisingly good. I've completely changed the suspension on my 07 to make it fully adjustable but on this bike, I really don't feel the need at all and I'm the type to look for the slightest reason to change something. Will probably take track speeds and riding to expose any real shortcomings. For me, it works great. Brakes lack some initial bite but are strong. I'm hoping a simple pad change could fix the initial bite. Also getting a slight squeak with light pressure just as I'm coming to a complete stop (racebike?). Happens sometimes but not all the time. Have yet to notice any intervention from the ABS. Bike has the option to turn off the ABS for the rear brake only (Supermoto mode) or to completely turn it off. Speaking of turning features on and off, everything is switchable. You're able to adjust so much from the dash. From the DRL on the headlight to Launch Control. If you make friends with the tech at the dealership and get him to hook up the diagnostic tablet, you can fiddle around even more. For example, I switched the turn signals to the OEM LEDs (that come on the bike in just about every other country) and instead of buying resistors or flasher relays, I just had to get my tech to switch the bike to "LED mode" in the diagnostic tool. Neat. Also worth mentioning, riding at night, this bike has the best headlight I've ever had on a bike. Or a car for the matter. Blows away the JW Speaker Adaptive headlight I retrofitted on my FZ07 (except for the lean angle lighting capability). Great beam pattern and range. Very wide spread of light and that's before you turn on the high beam. All that said, I still love my FZ07. It's just so much fun and with all the tech the 790 has, it's still a blast to get back on the "basic" FZ and be a hooligan. The 790 is powerful and precise whereas the FZ is simple and playful. Shes' staying. I'll keep this post updated as I learn more about the 790.
  46. 6 points
    Sunday morning, same thing, woke up too early but the mind was racing so it was time to get at it. I still had a lot to do and wanted to get started. I started with the undertail. The black was going to be the hardest part to wrap because its very round and there was going to need to be a lot of heat and stretching to get it wrapped even remotely well. It took a very long time for the black and red on the undertail and I almost stopped at that point but decided to keep going on the section between the lower pattern and the upper. As of now this is how its sits and am very please with it to this point. I do still want to add some red to the lower triangle that is white between the 1/2" black strips but after that its just the stickers to finish it off. The last picture is how it currently sits. I hope to get some more work done on it this weekend. I have a Brembo master to put on and bleed out, and figure out the rest of the subframe support since right now all thats holding it up are the two top tubes from the original frame. I dont think this is enough support to race on so will need to figure out what to add so its more like a real subframe. Sorry for the very very long bunch of posts but wanted to share and get all caught up to where it is now and how I got here. Its been fun so far and cant wait to actually put it on track if they ever open back up.
  47. 6 points
    I actually made my own Father tear up @ Christmas a couple years back... I skipped school one day as teenager. I took my fathers 1984 Honda Nighthawk S out for a 128 mile ride (@ 14 years old).... My Dad got home from work that day and asked "Did you ride my bike today"? To which I obviously said "No, why do you ask"?... He replied "Somebody put 128 miles on it today, are you SURE you didn't ride it.... I knew I was TOTALLY busted!!! He sold that bike 2 weeks later. I knew it was because of my "poor" choices.... Fast forward 30 years, and I found a "neglected" 1984 Honda Nighthawk S, with 12,000 original miles on it. Just needed some love- I picked it up for $600. I changed all the fluids, rebuilt the carburetors, put tires on it, restored it to "new" condition, and gave it to him for Christmas that year. I'll never forget that Christmas-
  48. 6 points
    In the wild! By now, you've probably seen the bike in the other thread, but I snapped a pic in it's natural habitat, the paddock, LoL. I'm at Auto Club Speedway in Fontana, Ca, doing a bit operational shakedown tests. So far so good. Bike flat out RIPS! Motor feels extremely strong, fueling is perfect, and suspension supple but firm. KTech did an excellent job of getting me a good baseline when they did the initial cartridge install...tire wear is perfect, and I didn't feel the need to change any settings. Operationally, it was a successful test. Bike held together, and more importantly than anything else, I feel safe on it. As far as lap times go, I can say this...my best time so at would have netted me 5th place in the last WERA race here for the class, and it was less than a second away from 4th place, and 3 seconds away from a podium. Of course, it's all relative because I don't really know the level of competition, but that's where I stacked up against the last race in the class here. I'll take it as a positive, since I haven't ridden in 10 months, I'm on a new bike, and I've never been to this track before...
  49. 6 points
    A couple track photos from 8/31 at NYST....
  50. 6 points
    Had a good weekend at NJMP this past weekend and got to work with some new riders in the paddock on a race weekend. Recently got to do some testing with Draik on the FZ07 at Mid Ohio trying to get some answers to the set up woes. During the process had the bike at the shop and did a quick leak down test and tossed it on the dyno. Spun up the roller and AFR was pretty far off what I’d want and power not what I was expecting. Decided to do a Leak down test it was terrible, to the point I thought maybe I was still on the cam and rotated the engine only to find that it was in fact closed Had some testing to do so decided rather than potential do more damage just to toss Draik’s suspension on one of my bikes at the shop with a healthy motor and go test. Able to find some directions with set up that on the first day and got rained out on day two of testing, but at least we had a direction heading to NJMP. Being a holiday weekend sourcing rings was going to be difficult even with my shop being in Ohio with most of the piston manufacturers. Also the concern for other damage being present I voiced my concerns about the time line before the race weekend. Rebuilt the bike and tossed it back on the dyno to sort out AFR with the ARacer set up and get it in a more tolerable range. Placed an order for all needed parts we might need to meet us back at the shop after NJMP and slapped it on the ass to go...albeit hurt. Also loaned Draik my OZ wheels for the remaining rounds to get a bit of help with the less than stellar performing motor. Weekend went well and bike handled much better than previous though out the weekend but power drop off was obvious. Draik was able to salvage a 4th place finish from the weekend on the hurt bike. Leading to a Robem Engineering supported riders finishing 2,3,4. As well as riders with parts in other positions through out the grid. Bike is back in Ohio as of 5:30am back at my shop and getting torn down tonight to see the extent of damage. Should be back and ready for Barber stronger than ever.
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