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  1. 16 points
    Luckily, I got one of the very first ones in the country. The engine seems to have a lil more pop to it over the MT07, but probably due to it being geared lower. Suspension is fully adjustable and better than I thought it would be. Feels great on the road, offroad is a blast but have to take it kind of slow because the suspension bottoms out easily. Im gonna dd progressive springs and revalve forks and shock. Seat is comfortable. It's a great do it all bike so far.
  2. 13 points
    8/15/2020 NYST photos....
  3. 13 points
    Note: The following are opinions. It is not based on scientific research but on experience and observation. Before I retired I had the good fortune to work the Sturgis Rally for a number of years. Because of this I had the unique opportunity to observe hundreds of thousands of similarly dressed rugged individualists attempt to operate motorcycles. That experience taught me two things. First was that many of them were inept at handling motorcycles and a vast majority of those honestly thought they were 'above avg' to 'excellent' riders when in fact they could not make a simple feet-up U turn in the full width of a 2 lane road. In talking to them at crash scenes, tip overs, fender benders and assorted mishaps I was appalled by the realization that they refused to practice or to learn or to seek instruction, frequently telling me that they thought their skills are "good enough", when clearly they were not. Second was that their focus and attention was frequently within the cockpit of the motorcycle instead of down range where it should be. When presented with situations that required divided attention, like pulling off a busy roadway into a busy gas station, their attention would shrink to their hand controls and they might very well crash straight into the fuel pumps or a car or another biker oblivious to their presence. Riders pulling away from a stop into traffic would pause and stare at the throttle, brake and clutch levers or at the ground directly in front of their motorcycle because they were overwhelmed and commence their action often with disastrous results. On to the free part. It costs nothing to stop in an empty parking lot or out of the way spot by yourself or better yet with other riders to offer critical input and PRACTICE riding. Braking. Turning. Avoidance maneuvers. Working with your control interfaces to make their operation intrinsic. Basic motorcycle control to familiarize yourself with your machine and it's capabilities. Two up if you ever take a loved one with. You owe it to your passenger to be better than 'good enough'. Occasionally practicing for problem #1 has the added benefit of taking care of problem #2, letting you safely enjoy the ride. The rest of us thank you. I realize that most of us here or that will read this are statistically not those I speak of. My hope is that we lead by example and are seen routinely practicing. That we take a friend or neighbor or other riding companion to the parking lot and learn together because I know my skills will never be good enough. Ride safe.
  4. 13 points
    My aim was to find an affordable set of forks to slot in to our trees in the hopes for a quick, inexpensive fork upgrade that anyone could do with basic tools at home. Well, I think it worked out, but it's not quite as "bolt-on" as I hoped. It's still relatively simple to pull off at home. Here goes... The forks to use will be Honda 1995-98 Honda CBR600F3 forks. Has to be F3 forks. There were a few F2 forks in '94 that had cartridge internals, but I'm not positive they are the same as these. The internals will give you dual cartridges in each leg ( rebound and compression ), externally adjustable rebound clicker and externally adjustable preload. There is no external adjustment for compression. My first goal was to just use the F3 forks in our trees. F3 forks are also 41mm like ours. That would retain all factory geometry while also upgrading to larger, floating rotors. But it didn't work out. Fork spacing of our trees is too close together, so the stock F3 wheel would not fit back between them. The stock F3 wheel uses the same size tire and it's twisted 6 spoke pattern would be very close to a visual match. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 5 views. Moving on...let's see if we can just use our fork lowers on the F3 tubes and cartridges. The answer is, yes! Stock internals above, F3 bits below. A few thing to note here. 1- Springs are the same length(the picture is deceptive). Spacers are different lengths, but that's not important. We'll get back to this later. 2- F3 springs are progressively wound. 3- What anchors the forks together uses different size bolts. More on this directly below. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 0 views. Here is the final fastener that actually holds the forks together. Above is the damper rod from the stock forks, below is the compression cartridge from the F3 forks. The stock bolt is a 10mm , the F3 bolt is 8mm. If you've ever changed forks seals/bushings...these are those bolts in the bottom of the fork lower that want to fight you. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 1 views. Here's what it takes to do the swap. When you first disassemble the F3 forks this is what you will see at the bottom of the cartridge assembly. That threaded hole is where is the forks lower attaches. You need to remove that compression cartridge from the cartridge assembly. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 0 views. Just with your finger, push the cartridge in to the tube to reveal this circlip. Pop out that circlip. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 1 views. Thread the bolt back in as a handle and pop it out. Easy peasy. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 0 views. This is what needs to be modified. That aluminum piece is just a seat for the cartridge assembly. It sandwiches between the fork lower and the compression cartridge. Since the F3 bolt was 8mm it also needs to be opened up to accept the 10mm bolt needed for the stock fork lowers. The bottom of the cartridge needs to be drilled and tapped to accept the stock bolt as well. This is the only things that need to be modified. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 1 views. Before you do any work to the compression cartridge you need to fully disassemble it. You can not have ANY tiny amount of grit or debris in these components. We're talking surgical clean here. Try your best to not mar the outside of the valve. Use hardwood, sheets of copper, aluminum soft jaws on your vice....whatever it takes...but please avoid pipe wrenches, vise grips,etc. All you need to remove is the socket head ( allen head) screw that holds the valve assembly to the valve body. That bolt is threadlocked in place, so get a good grip on things, but you do not need to use an impact or anything crazy. Now you can drill & tap without damaging the valve assembly. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 1 views. You do NOT need a lathe to do this! I never turned the machine on, I just used the lathe to help me align the parts for tapping. I tapped the valve by hand. But note the slip of copper protecting the valve body from the jaws of the chuck. Something like that is all you need. The new thread needs to be tapped to M10-1.0. 10mm diameter with a 1.0 thread pitch. Your tap should tell you what size drill bit to use. If not, a 8.5mm drill bit is the industry standard to use for a M10-1.0 hole. 8.5mm lands right between 5/16" and 11/32". I used a sharp 11/32" drill bit with perfect results. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 1 views. Important! Do NOT drill all the way through the valve body. Only drill and tap as far as needed. You can see it clearly with all the parts in your hands, but remember that the other side of the valve body uses a smaller fastener to retain the valve assembly. You can see a small step at the base of the new M10-1.0 thread. That is where the smaller thread begins. New M10-1.0 thread. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 1 views. Smaller thread on other side of the valve. 5mm? 6mm? I can't remember... Imgur Post with 0 votes and 1 views. At this point, you are done modifying, all that's left to do is reassemble the forks as if they were bone stock F3 forks. You use the forks tubes, caps, internals and lower bushings from the F3 forks. The ONLY FZ07 parts you will use is the fork lowers, 10mm retaining bolts and upper fork bushing. The lower fork bushings from the F3 forks are interchangeable with your stock bushings, but they are actually properly sized! They are not the "too small" bushings Yamaha gave us. So, reuse the F3 lower bushings unless you already have properly fitting bushings that are in good, or better, shape than what is in your F3 donor forks. The upper F3 bushings are larger than our stock bushing, so be sure to reuse the stock upper bushing or you will bind the forks. Stock on the left, F3 on the right. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 0 views. Finally assembly notes: Honda and the internet will gine you lots of differing suggestions on what fork oil and oil level to use. The thing to remember is that our bikes are a good 40lbs lighter than the F3 donor bike these forks came from. I originally went with 10w oil at 116mm oil level. It was harsh. I am currently using Maxima 52 oil at 120mm oil level and am happy with how the forks feel. Also, I am 220lbs in my birthday suit. I do not know what the stock spring rate is for F3 forks, but they springs work for me. However, remember earlier when I mentioned the springs were the same length? If you are happy with your current spring rates, just reuse your stock springs. The diameters are the same, so you're good to go. This post is strictly to show what small modification need to be done to install our stock fork lowers on to F3 fork tubes, and what oil weight and level works good for our bikes.. I am purposefully not going in to detail on how to disassemble and reassemble these two different types of forks. There's tons of info on that already. Just disassemble both, drill/tap the valve body and reassemble. Ride impressions: There is no doubt you are riding on late 90's sport bike fork technology at this point. Low speed compression bumps are a tad harsh. Not bone-jarring, just a tad harsh. But everything else is fantastic. Compression and rebound characteristics are VERY good. My stock forks would often jar me at speed. EG, hitting bridge expansion joints at highway speeds. That no longer happens. If you riding on a rough road at city speed (25-35 mph) the forks will feel a tad harsh....kinda like riding a sport bike! But at speed?....oh, at speed...that harder you push the plusher they feel. Throw the bike back and forth between corners and she's solid. No wallow. No wiggle. Just a nicely dampened front suspension. Travel: If you look up the specs on wheel travel on our bikes VS the F3 forks you will think this will give up fork travel. It won't. Yamaha lied. The ONLY way you can get the full 5.1" inches of travel out of the stock forks is if you completely compress the topout springs. Never gonna happen. Wheel travel is the same. Now...here's the "bad" art of this deal. The fork tubes are 2.25" longer than stock. So, if you just want to do this to your bike and leave everything else stock you will be rocking some extra fork tube above the top yoke. Like me! Yeah, you might look like a total squid noob with a lowered bike at first glance, but who cares. However....this also give you some pretty nice options! Been wanting to raise your bike and inch or so? Gotcha covered. Want to run legit clipons without some bulky,expensive adapter that bolts to the floppy stock bar mounts? Gotcha covered there, too! A set of 41mm clipons ( very common size) could be slid in to place and made to work oh,so easily. So are the long tubes a blessing or a cosmetic con? depends on what you need out of your bike. And yes, I did check for travel with so much tube exposed. You will not crash the fork lowers in to the bottom yokes. The bottom edge of the blue masking tape represents the forks completely bottomed out. Plenty of clearance. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 1 views. So, stock fork lowers in order to retain your original wheel and brakes. But add fully cartridge internal, extra height is wanted and the ability to mount clipons. For 100 bucks. I paid $75 for my forks off Craigslist and wasted some oil figuring out what worked good. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 2 views.
  5. 11 points
    We had the opportunity through Darren James to work with Trevor up at Flexi-glass on new bodywork for the FZ07 and MT07. The quality of the kit is amazing. The tank is molded off the FZ07 stock tank and uses the stock mounting locations without the flex or need for additional bracing of other kits on the market. Utilizing the current ZX10R wind screen. Bodywork is 2.0”narrower to avoid dragging and clearanced to avoid the exhaust in the lower. The mounting kit will be built by Robem and available on the website. Flexi-glass is proudly made in Canada with premium products. Cost estimated $800 upper, lower, tail, tank cover and fender plus shipping.
  6. 10 points
    Finished up my 2020 modifications for this year’s track season, if it ever starts Only performance mod was the addition of the Akrapovic Ti exhaust. The sound is intoxicating. This is now paired with the Power Commander 5 (with a great tune) MWR Air Filter and lid, and Heal Tech Quick Shifter. This years main mod was the addition of a front fairing number plate and new colors. The number plate is from S2 Concepts, it for a FZ-09, I really liked the look. Quality is decent for a fiberglass part and it arrived quickly from France. I had to modify the mounting brackets or make it fit. Got a knock off rear seat cowl, was advertised as a used genuine Yamaha parts, it wasn’t. The seller was cool and sent me a refund when I pointed it out, so I wound up paying $25. Overall it wasn’t too bad quality wise. The only thing I didn’t like was the soft collapsible rubber strip. I made a foam insert for it and now it’s nice and firm. Also got some nice Woodcraft case savers to to replace my old RG ones. I decided to try Vinyl Wrapping for the first time. I’m happy with the results. I also got a vinyl cutter for Christmas, so I made the logos and numbers too. I was originally going to do a full FZ-07R glass kit but decided to go with the naked or semi faired look. pgeldz has had an influence on me Ed
  7. 10 points
    Even though this is a promo, I find it interesting as a roadracing fanatic I thought I'd share: I hope you enjoy it.
  8. 9 points
    So I started bothering the good people at 2 Wheel Dyno Works about a year ago with questions regarding exhaust and intake choices. I always received a quick response with the reasons they felt these were the best choices. There recommendations were; full Yoshimura exhaust with the Db killer installed, removing the snorkle on the stock airbox and using the stock air filter. I finally sent my ECU off last week with the request that they wouldn't disable the fuel cut; this is my first ECU flash and I thought it would eliminate engine braking. Some friends gave me guidence and told me I was wrong. I emailed them and asked that they change my order after I had shipped it, they did and I received my flashed ECU in less then a week. What a difference much smoother throttle response and little loss of engine braking. The real difference is in the power availability, pulls much stronger in the mid range and doesn't drop off at the top end. I had a chance to wring out 4th gear and it was still pulling strong when I hit the Rev Limiter at about 95 MPH. I have been riding for about 50 years and this was the best and least expensive (for the results) Mod I have ever done. To say I'm happy is an understatement. If I run into any problems I'll be sure to let you know, but I really don't expect any.
  9. 9 points
    So I picked this up from a buddy, (read confiscated, lol) to build another racebike for a friend who says to me, "can you replicate your bike but with any upgrades or changes you'd make after racing yours for 4 seasons?". Hmm, says I, let me look into this. A few texts and late nite calls to some track friends and vendors and we're off and running. Pulled the motor and head for shipment to Zoran at TWF Racing, Looks like another excellent starting point. Getting the head ported, Web cams, valve job, bored throttle bodies. Ordered all the bits n pieces to have a ball both in the shop building it and on the track enjoying it. $6,000 not counting suspension bits, machine work, shipping and cost of the bike. So, yeah it's not cheap but it'll be an affordable option to the full on MotoAmerica builds at double or more the cost. This bike, like mine, should be able to make the grid in any MotoAmerica Twins Cup event, and podium at any club racing event under the right rider. Got some fun and high tech things in the works from Matt at Robem Engineering and from Brandon at Trackside Labs to bookend the motor Zoran is helping with. Stay tuned for V2. Fun.
  10. 9 points
    Been having fun. this bike is very trail capable. Beat this thru the muddy trails at 6000 ft above Boise in the rain and it took everything I gave it and keep wanting to go faster. This was up in Stanley, Idaho at the trailhead
  11. 9 points
    I wish I had documented the progress as I went. Better late than never.... I can honestly say that I'm "done" modding my FZ-07. I'm 50 years old, I a neck fusion done a few years ago. That made riding my KTM RC390 on the track impossible, as I couldn't lift my head up high enough to see where I was going . I needed a bike with a more upright riding position. I ordered a KTM Duke 390, and pulled the "go-fast" parts off my RC (to but on the new Duke). After several missed deliver dates, I bought a brand new "carry-over" 2016 Yamaha FZ-07 instead (two weeks before my first track day of the 2017 season). In hindsight, I'm glad the deliver dates got missed. I have never been as happy with ANY bike in the last 40+ years of riding. This bike was mostly going to be used on the track. I did sometimes street ride it though. This year the bike is my dedicated track-only bike. I didn't even license it for 2020, as I picked up a new 2019 Yamaha R3 for the street last fall. My neck can tolerate the surprisingly neutral riding position of the R3 on the street. Here's a list of all the mods I've done over the last three years, as well as some pictures. Let me know what you think . - Dunlop Q3+ (front & rear) - K-Tech Razor-R shock - Racetech springs and Gold Valve fork emulators - Preload adjusters for the forks - Hordpower intake - Akrapovic Ti exhaust - 2WDW ECU flash - Speigler braided brake lines (front & rear) - Woodcraft rear sets - Woodcraft water pump slider - Vortex 520 chain & sprockets - T-Rex crash protection (full kit) - Renthal "ultra-low" bars - Tech spec tank grippers - OEM Yamaha seat cowl - "Engine Ice" coolant - Cheap Ebay windshield (used as a number plate) *required at some track days* I'm probably forgetting a few things as well? It took me a while to get the suspension set-up correctly, but it was worth it! I've never been happier on a track as I am on this bike. I had a lot of fun putting all this together. I'm too far into bike to ever sell it. Last summer I was offered $10K for it (from a guy with too much money). I politely declined-
  12. 8 points
    My 5th trackday this season.
  13. 8 points
    95+% ready for the track. Just making final adjustments to the ProShift electronic gear shift system and waiting on my Hordpower airbox. Tentatively planning on doing the WERA event at Road Atlanta first weekend in October.
  14. 8 points
    I recently set about doing a throttle body sync today, and needed to fully remove the fairings around the tank on my 2018, and realized there's basically no videos or guides showing this with the newer model, and it differs pretty substantially from the earlier models for which videos and guides abound. So, without further ado: Removing the tank fairings on the 2018+ MT07! First, remove the seats. Screws 1 and 2 are at the base of the seat - release the passenger seat, then remove these two screws, and remove the seat. Next, remove the screws on the sides of the scoops: Then the screws at the front of the scoops. Note, only the marked screws (one on each side) not the silver screws. Then you can pop the scoops off. Pull out at the bottom first to release the big pins in the rubber grommets (see photos) then pop out the clips along the top of the scoop. Because you've taken the pins on the bottom out first, you can tilt the bottom of the scoop away from the bike just a little bit to help pop the top clips out (note their shape) - only tilt the scoop a little, you don't want to snap the clips off! Be gentle. With the clips, I find it helps to start at the rearmost one, and pop them out one at a time working forward. Now you've got the scoops off, there's just 4 more screws to go and you're done. First, pop the two screws off the top of the tank, just forward of the filler: Then the two screws at the front of the fairing: And it's free! There are no more screws or clips, you can pull the centerpiece and both side colored panels off as a single unit. You may need to pull the seat-side bottom edges out a bit (it sits on rubber bumpers attached to the chrome bracket that holds the back of the tank down, so you have to lift the edges of the fairing out over those bumpers) and the front edges by the forks need to be worked around cables. Just gently work the cover off, and voila! I hope this helps someone. The first time I did this, I took out WAY WAY too many screws, silly pushpins, and other such stuff. In fact, the only reason you need to pop the scoops off is to get at the screws at the front of the fairing (11 and 12 above). If not for those two screws, you could take the whole fairing off - scoops and all - in a single piece.
  15. 8 points
  16. 8 points
    So, the guy helping me with the adaptations just hasn't come through for me in a timely manner. I've been very patient but decided I just can't wait any longer. So, he delivered my bike in pieces to my house last weekend. He had taken it down to the frame because I wanted the frame, wheels and other bits powder coated gloss black. I started the build up on my own in a spare bedroom in my house last Monday. I've already almost got the bike assembled. Only things left are assembly of the wheels and installing the throttle bodies, wiring harness and electrics. I'll have it done within the next week. I've got a magnetic foot hold system (race tested) coming in from Finland this week, the Proshift electronic shifting is functional but the landing gear is not. If I have to use friends to catch and release me, I will because I want to be back on track this fall. Anyway, here are pics of my build up. Yea, I'm big time OCD and every single item is being spotlessly cleaned and any bearing or joint is being cleaned and freshly lubes.
  17. 8 points
    I picked up a leftover 2019 MT-07 with 0 miles otd price $7167. $5999 before taxes and all the other dealer fees and registration.
  18. 8 points
    Started stripping the bike down for some more custom parts. I'll try machining a new top triple with it's main purpose to allow standard clipons to mount a half inch higher than with the stock triple. I plan to revisit my ram-air intake which will most likely require a custom fuel tank. The bike is going full track, so lights will be removed and the upper fairing lowered to accomidate the lower clipon position. As usual, this thread will be updated as I go so you guys can witness any fails, but hopefully more success.
  19. 8 points
    We've been busier than a one legged man in an ass kicking contest but wanted to respond to Matt's post. I can't say enough about using these great forum vendors as resources instead of the cut rate cheesey hacks on eBay or Amazon to help with your projects. The level of support is second to none. I got daily texts and phone calls checking on progress, help problem solving, trouble shooting and technical advice that is simply non existent with the chinese/online/sell it cheaper crap dealers. These folks spend countless hours and dollars to develop and test their products, technique's and knowledge to give the rest of us what we seek. We, in turn, need to support them and not the peddlers of cheap knock offs and copies who forsake you as soon as your creditcard clears. I guarantee you'll never receive a phone call from China to trouble shoot your issue at 0530 trackside on a Sunday like from these guys! Blue Line Racing
  20. 8 points
    Well she's finally finished. Here is the final product. My wife did the vinyl wrap, and I think she knocked it out of the part. I picked the colors, but she did the design. If everything goes right, I should get a chance to test it out this weekend. I am so excited to ride this thing! Hopefully I'll have some actions shots for you guys.
  21. 8 points
    Well the Road America round is officially a 'Go' the end of this month and I've assembled a team of the finest pittards in the business. We'll run this round as a 2 bike team so I can get it adjusted to it's new owner and get the suspension dialed in. Our plan is to run nose to tail right to the front of the grid. What could possibly go wrong, right? The bike is done, The best thing that could happen now is he beats us on it while beating on it. I think we're in deep trouble. What I do know is that we're gonna have a GREAT time finding out! Sorry in advance to all the other competitors that will have their dreams shattered and go home wabbing, lol. BLR Edit: added a strobe,
  22. 8 points
    Aaron wheeled in on his R6 to turn wrenches this morning. Really nice to have a second pair of hands to do bodywork. This pic should give a good idea of the speeds I'm capable of generating, Got V2 put together, Fired it up, (make sure you plug your crank position sensor into the correct plug) Took both girls out for a run, She's a monster no doubt. Neighbors seemed a little unimpressed so we parked them after a few laps. The Leo Vince can on mine sounds crazy! I wasn't going to paint it but now I'm thinking I'll put tape lines on it and see if the body shop down the road will shoot me some cheap paint. Either something outrageous or plain white and the new owner can wrap it, paint it or whatever. Of course I'll have to swap motors yet when I get his done.
  23. 8 points
    TB's came in and these showed up, Custom valved K Tech DDS lite shock and 20IDS cartridges in re-built stock forks to stay with the budget(ish) build, This is gonna be bad ass fast n fun
  24. 8 points
    So the SV650 subframe is completed should be starting the FZ-07 subframe next week. Here is a couple photos of the project so far just so people can stay interested.
  25. 8 points
    I've been fiddling around with bodywork today, nothing serious, just trying to get the lines right. Tank is a MV brutale which works fine with the throttle bodies and gives me plenty of room for the airbox. Tail is CBR but I'll probably make something up that suits it better. I've got a RCS and some M50 brembos ready to go on and next week I'm going to strip the loom and have a go at making a race loom.
  26. 8 points
    We have wheels! I'm well pleased with this. The wheels are only loosely bolted on so that I can move the bike around but I love the stance and proportions. Hopefully things will move on fairly quickly now. The race engine build is pretty much there, just waiting on the cams. Slipper clutch has arrived and some fresh gaskets.
  27. 8 points
    Top of the morning! Its a dreary Saturday here in VA so I figured it'd be good start to delve into the early stages of this build. Obviously, the first step was to strip the bike down to nothing more than a rolling chassis with the motor still in place. The hardest part of that undertaking was the damn OEM airbox... Once it was stripped, it was time to take a good look at the subframe and OEM brackets scattered all over the frame (all of it had to go). I wanted the seat line to be as parallel to the ground as possible, kinda like the Jigsaw Customs XSR700 tracker build But trying to work around the curved subframe with the end goal of having a seat line parallel to the ground seemed too much of a problem to be worth the effort: So I bought some .065" wall 3/4" carbon steel tubing for my upcoming version of the subframe. I had to hack a bunch of the OEM stuff off first though before I could get off to a good start... Once the upper rails of the subframe and a good portion of the OEM brackets were gone, I took a few measurements, coped the 3/4" tubing, and got to welding. I went ahead and buffed down the passenger footpeg bosses, welded the holes up, and then blended them nicely into the frame as well: To satisfy any curiosity, if you've noticed the red tie-down straps, they were used in leveling off the bike side to side along with measurements from two equal points on the frame to the top triple clamp, so I could get the bike to stand as square as possible, which in turn would translate over to the new subframe top rails being as square as possible. It just required two holes to be drilled (one into my workbench frame, and one into a wall stud of my shed), two ratchet straps, a torpedo level, and a keen eye. Here's a better look at my home-made leveling rig Once I got all that squared away (no pun intended), I finished removing what was left of the sock subframe, and added a new cross member of the same 3/4" tubing mentioned earlier: Not being satisfied with the OEM crossmember of the subframe directly above the rear shock and still showing the passenger footpeg bosses on the INSIDE lower portion of the subframe, I decided to clean up that area as well. After removing the OEM crossmember, i left the 2 lower bosses and welded a 1/4" piece of round stock between the two for a cleaner and more simple looking crossmember: Once that was all said 'n done, the FZ had a nicer, clean looking subframe: After I knocked out a good portion of the subframe modification, that allowed me to start preparing for the seat pan/tail section. I sourced a huge sheet of .090" thick 5052 aluminum for the seat/tail section from a local metal supplier/machine shop. Luckily I've known the owners for a good while, so material costs have been pretty minimal so far. The first order of the seat pan/tail was to figure out the proper length and width dimensions. Width-wise the seat pan doesn't exceed the subframe rails which reach 7 1/2" at their widest point just before reaching the rear crossmember, with a very slight taper traveling towards the front of the bike. I kept the seat pan square because the taper is so minimal it wouldn't have been worth the effort in trying to mirror the taper angle on the seat pan. Once I had a 7 1/2"x28" sheet of 5052 cut, I marked 7 1/2" inwards from the rear edge, and made a slight scribe using a grinder and cutting wheel, and made the first bend with my 18" Harbor Freight manual press brake (if you don't scribe the material you're using, even if its really thin stuff, that brake doesn't do much bending). Luckily, the upwards angle of the tail's bottom was pretty spot on with what I had wanted, so that's all it took: With the base of the tail/seat pan up 'n running, next on the list is getting the shape of the tail roughed in. For the most part I just had an idea in my head, and just started cutting and bending material until I got the shapes I was happy with. Surprisingly, the lower side pieces I bent for the tail started out as just a piece of scrap that I originally just wanted to practice bending using the brake. Unbeknownst to me had I had coincidentally bent the scrap piece to go with the tail perfectly. After realizing this, I reverse-engineered the scrap piece, used it as a template, marked where the bends were, and voila had the lower portion of the tail fabbed up by luck! Once I had those members made, I cut and shaped the middle portion of the tail and tacked it in place: After that it was pretty much just cutting and shaping off of the top of my head, making sure left and right pieces mirrored each other and everything was equal when measuring from the center on outwards: After the tail was pretty much assembled and welded, I had a bunch of welds to buff and blend in. And where I wanted a nice contour on the tail I had to add a decent amount of metal so there was enough material to work with without removing much, if any of the base material. Also, when welding 5xxx series of aluminum I use 5356 filler rod (you can use 4043 filler rod as well, I just prefer 5356) and 100% UHP argon for the shielding gas: The process involved using a cutting wheel, various grit levels of flapper discs, and you guess it, a Harbor Freight hand sander to achieve smooth transitions of all the faces on the tail: And here's the Marco Simoncelli CB1100 TR tribute bike where I got a lot of influence for the tail and the idea for the lip on the rear of the tail (probably one of the best looking bikes I've ever laid eyes on): Anyways theres more for another day! Hope you guys enjoy. Feel free if you have any questions! Austin
  28. 8 points
    Ok ok, here ya go...this better?
  29. 8 points
    Business is good and we keep taking more and more orders for parts and helping with some really neat projects with people. Here’s the catch... at this moment we have a couple big projects to build for the coming MotoAmerica series that will need significant attention in the form of complete MA twins bikes For a couple weeks I’m going to have to turn down any custom work or building any items for customer that are currently of stock until after we complete the bikes for customers. I won’t be taking deposits for parts I can’t ship in a timely manner unless you want to arrange to it by email through the website. This is just a note for the community, we want to provide not only nice custom parts but a great experience as well. As many of you know I do this mostly for the love of the sport and it’s definitely not what pays my bills. Thanks for your understanding.
  30. 8 points
    Hey guys! I'm really trying to make this happen! Just to give you some background of how this all came about in the first place... It all started out of necessity to race my FZ-07 instead of my R3. One of my targets is to race at the Pro level one day in MotoAmerica. For a guy who was paralyzed and couldn't walk 9 years ago, it's a pretty big target - not only to prove to myself I can reach that level, but to show it's never too late to follow your dreams, no matter what adversity someone as been through. I was pretty successful with R3 at the club level, but there age limits in MotoAmerica for the Junior Cup class which makes me ineligible. I already had the FZ-07 so it was a more cost effective way to try and race at that level since I didn't have to buy another bike. When I set out to transform it into a racing machine, I wanted to partner up with the same companies I used in building my other bikes - The R3, XSR900, and Ducati Monster S4RS, pictured here: I originally wanted my FZ-07 to be naked, but the need to remove the stock plastic intakes to make clearance for clip-ons meant that something custom would have to be done to fill that space. After looking at what would be involved in making new air intakes that would allow room for clip-ons lock to lock, I decided to go another route. I figured I could use what's already out there for the tank cover, because that inherently would allow me to use clip ons. I've always liked the Paolo Tex body pieces for the Ducati Mosters, and since he made me a special one-off ALL CARBON version for my Cafe Replica Koncept above, I wanted a way to thank him. What a better way to say thanks then to use his race version nose piece and long belly pan. The race version nose piece looked like it would pair well with FZ-07 race tail section that's readily available, so I did some mock ups and was like, WoW, that works! However I quickly learned that the sides of the nose piece don't jive well with the angle of the FZ-07's radiator. I set out to fix it and ended up extending the sides to match the angles of the FZ-07, trimmed the shark fins to a flat finish, and really liked the end result. The nose piece overall is very tight, but there is clearance everywhere and the fit looks like a tailored suit when it's all in place. Since the nose piece has an inside ledge so to speak, we took advantage of that and built the fairing stay to accommodate, so the nose piece actually sits in place on it's ledge and then bolts right up. The bellypan however, was NOT going to work...AT ALL. When put in place approximately where it would sit, the oil drain bolt was in front of the bellypan! I basically hacked up the Paolo Tex belly pan so I could match the angles and styling, but made one from scratch so it would have that same tailored fit as the reworked nose piece. With all that fitted up, I realized there was just enough surface area to design a new livery (as opposed to a naked bike with hardly any real estate). Problem is, for long logos like my Tarmac Faction race team logo, the only place is really on the bellypan. But even then since it's way longer than it is tall, it kinda runs into the bellypan number plate. Because the design is very angular to begin with, I exploited that and figured I can extend the bottom of the tail unit to make surface area for my logo. Originally I was going to actually extend the tail unit and bolt it to where the passenger footrest brackets are, but then quickly realized that's 4 more bolts to remove when taking the tail on and off which holds the exhaust support and rear shock external reservoir mount...no thanks. I came up with a different approach, and made panels that bolt to those supports, but just tuck underneath the tail. Much simpler way to do it and everything can stay in place when you take the tail off now. So with everything ironed out, here is where I'm at... 1) Tank cover - readily available thru Altus Motorsports or Sharkskins 2) Tail Unit - readily available thru Altus Motorsports or Sharkskins 3) Tarmac Faction reworked Paolo Tex race nose piece - 2 complete units finished. One is on my bike, and the other is a spare. 4) Tarmac Faction bellypan - 2 complete units. One is on my bike, and the other is a spare. It's a repeatable part since the mold is made, and can make more on demand. 5) Tarmac Faction fairing stay, with provision for factory gauge cluster and AIM Solo 2 lap timer - One is made and on my bike, and material for 2 others to be made. 6) Tarmac Faction side extension panels - One set made, and easily repeatable. I still need to take my spare nose piece and have a mold made so it can be repeatable. I also have to take off the fairing stay that's on my bike, and have 2 more made with the material I have (one for a spare and the other to send off and have mass produced). Once that's done, I think making a kit would be a no brainer. I need to do this stuff ANYWAY for ME, so I have spares in case of a crash, so it WILL happen. The only thing is, how many people are interested in this sorta kit? For me, it started as me wanting clip ons and also wanting to thank Paolo, in addition to wanting control over availability of parts (racers HATE waiting on parts). From there it took on another concept in my head...can I make a custom racing prototype with unique styling and actually race it at the Pro Level? We are gonna find out! - Paul
  31. 7 points
    I bought an FZ07 in September 2018 with plans to build it into my new race bike, and race it towards the end of the 2019 season. I live in Edmonton, Alberta, Canada, and my local race club is the EMRA. My wife and I ended up buying a new house, so the build budget disappeared rather suddenly, and my plans got put on hold. But things are looking better now. That, and my 2007 Ninja 650 decided to fire a connecting rod through the crank case on the second last round of the 2019 season, so I don't really have a choice. So yesterday I put the bike up on the "lift" and did an oil change and cleaned and lubed the chain. I spent most of the day today in the garage stripping parts that aren't needed for racing. It was a productive day, and I managed to remove just about everything I won't need. Of all the parts that needed to come off the bike, the OEM airbox was by far the most difficult. This POS, SOB took me WAY too long to remove, and in the end I had to drop the engine and remove the throttle bodies to make room to get this thing out of the frame. I now understand why so many people destroyed the stupid thing cutting it into smaller pieces to remove it. Thankfully I'll never have to do that again. Have any of you ever seen one of these intact, outside of the frame before? If not, here is what it looks like. Before you guys say anything, yes I removed the snorkel when I was removing it. Stay tuned for updates as I make progress. I'm really excited to finally be building this. Also, tips and suggestions are VERY welcome. Please let me know if you see something that I could do better. I'm reasonably handy, but I'm an professional engineer, so I don't get to spend much time wrenching other than basic maintenance. I'm really hoping you guys can teach me a thing or two along the way. I have to give a shout out to MossRider. It was your build thread years ago over on MSNBR that gave me the confidence that there are enough race parts to support the FZ-07 that I could build one myself. We'll see if I'm still praising you come Round 1 in the spring.
  32. 7 points
    Pittrace summary. I was unable to make the trip but sent my crew and gear under the watchful eye of the Warden. The new Ktech rear suspension wasn't ready for combat in my bike so we tried an Ohlins TTX and custom linkage in its place. It functioned well and Tony set a personal record during the race, finishing 17th out of 27. Shawn was also in the process of setting a PR during the race when he binned it outta T14 on the white flag lap. (See video highlight clip below, lol) Trouble is, everyone else is setting PR's and Rocco is setting track records everywhere. Making preparations for BIR in a couple weeks with the new Ktech stuff on her, then another assault on the MotoAmerica folks at Indy with Tenracing aboard my bike. Look out Brickyard! Aftermath of letting others ransack my kit n toolbox for 4 days has my OCD raging. Had to re-sort, clean and reorganize everything anyone touched. Almost like a race team...
  33. 7 points
  34. 7 points
  35. 7 points
    MotoAmerica TwinsCup Road America Round 2 Race Report Round number 2 seemed promising having already turned laps with the previous two-race weekend last month and set up notes still fresh in our minds. Darren James once again was incapacitated for travel with the border travel restrictions we would have to make due once again with a full Suzuki effort. The bikes had recently spent some time on the dyno and were looking healthy for round #2 in the land of cheese and brats. Velocity Calibrations had freshly serviced the forks for both Jackson and Toby after the first round with Toby wanting to make some adjustments we couldn’t accommodate during round one. First Practice saw pace much slower than previous race pace as to be expected with the cooler weather at 09:10 around the 4-mile course but in line with the pace of other riders on course, time for lunch. With looming rain and weather looking clear the rest of the weekend we mounted rain tires while debating the merit of Q1 being able to provide any transferable data to Q2 or the race. The consensus was to put the warmers on the slicks and come in partway through Q1 if rain approached vs burning tire stickers and leaving us to run a scrub in either Q2 or the race with only 3 tire stickers left for the weekend. Q1 saw the riders increasing lap times versus the morning practice, with few riders improving much if at all. With environmental conditions deteriorating we retired to Parc fermé hoping drier conditions would allow the riders to push times in tomorrow’s Q2. Q2 was hotter with the pace being pushed quicker and quicker with Kaleb and Rocco leading a charge during the session. When the dust had settled the riders had put in a respectable effort qualifying with Jackson Blackmon on the front row in #3 position, Toby Khamsouk on row three in #7 position and the Doctor himself Carl Price on row five in the #14 position for the 10:20 race on Sunday. Race time on Sunday for the twins was the first race of the day. Prepared for a scorching pace based on the flier put in by Rocco in qualifying the riders took to the grid with eight laps to contest in the Wisconsin sun. All riders got away with a clean start with Jackson slotting into 3rd and Toby in 5th going into turn 1 at the start of the race. Jackson had a misstep halfway through the race that left him on the sideline and eventually in the pits with the rest of the team to watch the remainder of the race with the team to cheer on Toby and Carl. Toby in the mix with 5 riders vying for the final position on the podium with 4 riders driving to the finish out of the last turn with Toby crossing in 6th position. Carl not to be outdone by his younger teammates bested his personal best by almost 2 seconds completed the race in the 12th position. Congratulations to all the twinscup competitors and we will be back on the bikes in the Georgia heat at the end of July before you know it.
  36. 7 points
    So we're in the game with both bikes at Road America. After P1 and Q1 today Shawn sits in 9th, Tony in 12th, not bad. Tomorrow is Q2 and we'll have to dig deep to defend or move up on the grid. We're right in the middle of @Spatt 's crew of 3 filthy fast Suzuki's. Best racing story ever happens near the end of Q1. Shawn is working hard to gain a spot or two on an iffy track and low sides outta T3 in front of a big cheering crowd. He pops up but the controls are damaged so can't continue and takes a bow for the appreciative fans. While Shawn is waiting for the crash truck to pick him up a guy and his wife ask for a photo to which he dutifully obliges. Helmet off, best pro pose, big smile, arm around the gentleman's wife and while her husband snaps the pic she says to him, "Why not grab the titties, you earned it". The whole crowd roars as the husband throws Shawn an ice cold PBR for his effort. Gotta luv racing.
  37. 7 points
    So we loaded up the truck and we went to Beverly... Rain for move in Thursday afternoon. The rest of the time was perfect. Things were going well.. But of course Tony wanted new controls on one side of the bike. I wish he'd have just asked, lol. No biggie. PR's every session after practice and dialing in the new bike and owner... That's Tony, Daniel, Nate, @cornerslider, the lovely old bird, ass, Travis, Char and Shawn the new owners. What a great time with great folks. Baby getting her first new pair of shoes.. They bonded and went fast right off w/o any of the drama Tony created. Bike is fast, better handling and with better suspension than mine. I think she and Shawn will be a wrecking ball around race tracks. Good for them. We went 14th/15th in race 1, 15th/16th in race 2. We'll take it. Caught up with some old friends, made some new ones and had a great time. BLR leaves you with this thought, Be safe everyone, it's a crazy world out there.
  38. 7 points
    Haven't been in here in awhile mainly because everything got put on hold pretty much due to life changes with the guy helping me with the adaptions. Anyway, progress is finally moving forward again. All designs are pretty much done (we think). Bike has been torn apart and I just recently got the frame and wheels back from powder coat. I went gloss black on the frame and wheels. Bodywork will be a reverse Yamaha speed block design with the main color being red, black speed blocks, white number areas and lower part of belly pan will be white too. So, hopefully I'll be back on the track this fall. I doubt I'll get out in the summer months because the heat can be too much for my system to handle at times. That's part of having a spinal cord injury, we don't sweat below our injury level making it hard to keep cool.
  39. 7 points
    Thought I would post my review of Hordes Airbox upgrade. I am really, really pleased with the upgrade. As far as power mods are concerned, I am coming from a 2WDW flash w/ Yosh Carbon and snorkel delete. I am going to be honest, I was a little disappointed after the exhaust and flash. I think my expectations may have been a bit high. The bike certainly felt better but I couldn't say that I felt the extra power. The bike seemed smoother and my mpg took a serious hit. Despite investing a grand in exhaust and flash I was seriously considering taking the hit and trading it in for a bike (MT-09) with a bit more power. Before I resorted to such drastic measures I pulled the trigger on the intake upgrade. Supposedly the airbox upgrade is worth about 4hp, about half of what I should have gained with the exhaust and flash alone. I sent my ecu back to Nels for the update and got to work installing Horde's intake. Installation wise, it is a mother to get the factory airbox out. I'm sure it is possible to remove it cleanly but I didn't have much luck. The process put some pretty large scratches in the airbox plastic. Since it was already scratched up I ended up just cutting it out. If I ever go back to stock (I won't) I'll need to purchase another airbox. Once the factory airbox was out, installing Hordes system was mostly straightforward. The tolerance on the mounting bracket could be better. You need to be really careful not to cross thread bolts through the bracket. The bracket (at least mine) wanted to pitch the bolts up. Horde should consider elongating these holes a little more before getting the bracket anodized. Once the airbox is in I went ahead and re-synced my throttle bodies. They were off quite a bit and I'm sure it was due to the airbox as I had just synced them a week or two ago as part of the 4k mile service. If you go this route make sure you sync the TBs. The good news is with the airbox gone, getting at the vac lines is a piece of cake. It was possible to sync the TB without removing anything (despite what Jake the Gardensnake would have you believe) with enough patience. With the airbox replaced with horde's setup it is literally a 5 minute job. This installation was done a good two weeks ago. Today the weather was warm enough (45f) to get a ride in. I have to say I am really really impressed. The bike now feels how I expected it to feel with just the exhaust and flash. I took the bike over to a county highway and pinned it through all 6 gears. I didn't realize the front wheel was floating until it touched pavement again in 4th gear. The bike feels fantastic. Logically the 4hp gain the intake therotically provided shouldn't have accounted for this much of a performance gain, but I can't otherwise explain it. Perhaps Nels tune with the Yosh on my bike wasn't spot on but now the tune with the airbox + the yosh is? Not sure but the whole bike woke up. I'll be hanging on to the bike now for a few more seasons I suspect.
  40. 7 points
    So surprise to me midnight black is black with blue flake. Guess next time I should take the paint chips outside and look at in daylight and not the fluorescent lights definitely nicer than the oe paint but not as nice as if I had let Parrish or someone more skilled than myself paint it.
  41. 7 points
    Almost 1 year ago we built our first subframe for the FZ07. I never really like the way it worked and the plugs that went into the tubes. I know others have since made other solutions that I found equally difficult or more so to install or service. The original design was 3 pieces allowing to replace any item that bent separately and also allow the subframe to be installed without each part being in tension. I still never really loved the design and only built a few. Move forward a year. Going to try and add plugs to weld to the frame and allow the entire piece to be removed as one unit. So far I've machined the aluminum part for the subframe side and working on the steel slugs with matching interlocks. We will test it on our SV's first but I think I can pass it along also to the FZ riders if all goes as planned.
  42. 7 points
    Quick report for my newest upgrade. I managed to score an Ohline STX46 (YA419) second hand which I've just used to replace my Bitubo XZE11 which I also bought second hand, and wanted to give a quick comparo for those considering either of these upgrades. For reference, I am 72kg / 160 pound without gear, and use the bike every day for commuting to and from work in the city. Once a fortnight I'll take the bike out into the hills for some spirited riding. I found the standard front end fairly harsh but OK, and the standard rear very harsh and lacking in rebound damping. Both would be sorted. Over here in Australia shocks pretty much never come up for sale for these bikes and when they do, they're gone in an hour so you have to be quick. Which is how I intially ended up with a Bitubo XZE11. It was the first shock in months that had appeared on the second hand market and so when it appeared for sale in one of the local groups, I grabbed it straight away. It had the "standard" 120 spring installed. I wasn't quite able to get the correct sag numbers as I suspect the 120 spring is still too high for my weight. I emailed Bitubo asking for the recommended weight range for the 120 spring and they never replied (great support there guys...). Either way, the improvements to ride quality were immediately felt and the bike was transformed. It wasn't much smoother than stock (harshness when hitting small bumps) but the rebound damping was substantionally better and vastly improved the bikes stablity while cornering. I found myself attacking the corners now rather than bouncing through them and it really made the bike so much more fun to ride. In saying that, I was hoping for a smoother ride as well, since my commute is riddled with bumps and manholes and dodgy bitumen joins everywhere so I still felt myself avoiding the known obstacles along the way. Very large dips in the road at higher speeds could also throw me up off the seat a bit but not like the standard shock did. I was really happy with the improvements so I went and installed some Cogent DDC's in the front. They've been great. Improved ride quality and performance overall, but then again the front was never "that" bad for me. However I felt that the front and rear weren't quite balanced with each other. Bumps that the front absorbed, the rear transferred sharply and where the front would move with the road surface, the rear resisted it a little more. The impression was that the rear end was set up to be more sporty than the front, and for my type of riding too sporty overall. I thought a spring change might help (something lighter than the 120) but I assumed that it would also be the compression damping. Since the shock cost me $500AUD, spending another $200 on a spring and then whatever it might cost to have it revalved would mean I could have just bought a brand new shock and specified it to my liking by the manufacturer, so I kept it as it was. Then an Ohlins STX46 popped up on the second hand market (the second used shock I'd seen in 6 months) for $100 more than the Bitubo, at $600AUD. I'd read that the Ohlins was more "street" focussed rather than track, where I suspect the Bitubo is more track focussed. The Ohlins also has a slightly lighter spring at 115. Knowing I could sell the Bitubo for what I bought it for I figured it was only an extra $100 and in the worst case I have a nicer coloured spring that's slightly lighter in weight. Well I can tell you the difference between the two is significant. The Ohlins is far smoother. Way smoother. It's exactly what I was hoping for when I first replaced the standard shock with the Bitubo. It eats up the sharp bumps even a little bit better than the front end now and has the same excellent level of control I got with the Bitubo but with a lot more compliance. The bike overall behaves much better as the front and rear really now work in unison and give the same response so it all feels much more balanced. The 115 spring might technically still be too heavy for my weight but I have no issues with at all and won't be changing it. I'm perfectly happy now and I will never replace the Ohlins. In summary. They're both great shocks and I don't have anything against the Bitubo, but it's definitely the more sporty of the two and would probably be great for much more aggresive riding and matched up with a set of cartridges. But for general street riding and daily commuting with some sporty riding on the weekends, the Ohlins with DDC's has me 100% satisfied so my suspension quest is over.
  43. 7 points
    Hi. I don't know if anyone is interested in this but I'm building a Supertwin race bike around a mt07 engine. Most of the rest of it is custom build although I'm using an aprillia swingarm and the headtube and front portion of an MV agusta frame. The side plates are billet alloy with adjustable swingarm pivot and the yokes are custom made with adjustable offset fitted to ohlins forks. Rear suspension will be bitubo r6 shock with a custom rocker link. The engine rules over here in Europe are much looser so I've modified the head to take 2mm oversized valves and I'm having the cams re-profiled. I've got wiseco pistons, modified for the larger valves. It'll have a modified generator and a slipper clutch. The throttle bodies have been bored to 41mm and they will be mounted on silicone 45 degree bends to allow a large airbox to be made under the tank cover. The tank, airbox, subframe and airtubes will all be hand made and at the moment I don't know what bodywork it will use. The aim is to finish it in March ready for this season. I'll post some pics of the progress so far.....
  44. 7 points
  45. 7 points
    Ha, I restored dozens of older bikes over the years as a hobby and absolutely loved it. It was so fun to waste a sunny summer weekend hooning around on random old stuff, running from Dairy Queen to brat feed to swap meet! And I actually miss changing fouled spark plugs on the roadside or calling my wife to bring the truck and pick my dumb ass up. The wife, who rides, didnt share my love of the vintage stuff. My problem was racing started to consume all my time, all my money and all my sanity, lol. It got to the point I simply had too many carbs to keep clean, too many old gas tanks to keep rust free, too many tubed tires leaking air and weather checking too continue. Luckily, my wife developed a love of the track and now track works at several racetracks and cant get enough of our shared passion. I gave up the restoration stuff and sold out. Now I'm throttling back my racing and find that helping out around the paddock is its own reward and we truly enjoy the people, smells, sounds and sights of the track. It's our lake home.
  46. 7 points
    Busy work in the shop today and the weather was nice to boot! Buttoning up motor connections, tidying up random paraphernalia, and looky here, The spare skins all patched up and ready for paint, look pretty good and are a direct replacement for the primary set. Went through the front calipers and new Motul 600 for them. Set the preload on the new steering head bearings. The rest of the glass going back on after an off season refresh, Ready to take some Suzuki scalps and run amok with the midpack mutts.
  47. 7 points
    I thought I'd do a quick budget build with some parts I have laying around my shop with my wife's street FZ07. Here's the donor in its current state. Pretty stock with the only addition being a Akropovic Titanium exhaust to give her some noise when riding to the office. Might also give me some reason to make some more street oriented parts for the FZ/MT bike. It'll be a pretty basic build as she mostly just uses it to ride to her office and has only done one track day. First goal will be simple ergo's and basic suspension.
  48. 7 points
    Here is a photo I took in of Area 51. I think I can just make out @pgeldz's bike starting a speed run up the runway .
  49. 7 points
    My experience, I sent 2WDW the ECU's from my 19 MT07 and my 17 SV650 during their thanksgiving sale. I'm very happy with both reflashes to match my aftermarket exhausts. They received them and turned them around back to me in short order. I used to go the PCV route but was having trouble finding a good dyno shop and going w/autotune seemed pricey. I'm sticking with 2WDW.
  50. 7 points
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