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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/15/2018 in all areas

  1. 14 points
    Want something to read that isn’t a “which exhaust, tires, flash, bars, seat should I get” thread? I’m bored and its winter so here’s my moto-story. I’ve been wanting to throw down my experience with riding for a while so here goes. My moto-background is… I took the MSF course in 2006 and picked up a 2004 Katana for $3700 with about 3K miles. I sold my car and commuted for about a year, put about 4K miles on the Kat. Didn’t have great gear and got a little tired of getting wet and sold the bike. Honestly, enjoyed the bike for ergos, power and sound. Picked up a 2004 CBR600RR about 8 months later which I owned for about 1.5 years and barely rode at all. I went to Iraq for about half that time but mostly I didn’t enjoy sport biking in the Florida panhandle. I also needed a little cash on hand to buy my house. Went about a year and a half without a bike and then bought a Harley Fatboy as my dad was moving down with his and I wanted to be able to ride with him. Also bought a Nightster for my wife not too long after as she didn’t care for being on the back of a bike. I rode it more than her though, as I had several issues with mine and it was in the shop a bit. Not to mention, it’s pretty difficult to ride when you have small kids. Didn’t do any long trips in the remainder of my time in Florida although I always wanted to. Moved to Germany in 2013 and decided not to bring the Harley as I was afraid of maintenance costs. Didn’t have a bike for 3 years until I offered a co-worker $500 for his 2006 GSXR 600 that had been sitting in various garages for the last 4 years. He took it without a second of deliberation, just wanted to be rid of it. I nursed it back to health and rode it for what little bit I was home during that year. I was bitten by the bug at this point and just wanted another bike that was fun but a bit more comfortable than the GSXR. I scoured the internet for the winter and decided my tax free status made the MT-07 and unbeatable deal. I picked up my 2017 ABS model in Tech Black in February ’17. As I started it at the dealer to head home, I knew an exhaust was in my future. I ordered a Mivv system which is really popular in Europe that night. Literally installed in the morning before work the day after I got it. My plan from there was to buy all the stuff I wanted for the bike over the first few months of having it so I could enjoy it for the next 3 summers (leaving in Jan of 2020) with no regrets or wishing I would have bought something sooner. So I ordered Bitubo suspension from Paul at Bellissimoto, FTecu bench kit, CRG mirrors, levers, Givi windscreen, R&G axel and frame protection, SW Motech Blaze bags, Ogio All Elements waterproof duffle, a USB power adapter, phone mount and some red decals to change up the appearance a bit… all within the first 3-4 months. Was able to do a couple of trips down to Switzerland and Italy that summer. Got a little over 5K miles despite being gone for work quite a bit. Fall came around and I ordered heated gloves and a wiring harness for the bike to extend my season. I was able to ride every month from Feb 2017 to Dec 2018 at least once, sometimes with snow on the ground. I did a moto-camping trip into the Schwarzwald (Black Forest) where some of my all-time favorite roads are in May 2018 before I had to leave for 7 weeks in Romania. I bought a Bagster seat when I got back from that trip as I suffered quite a bit on the way home (mostly my fault for not taking more breaks). I was able to take a few trips to in 2018 and rent bikes as well. In March, I went to Barcelona with to friends and rode a Triumph Tiger 800 xR for 2 days into the Pyrenes. Really fantastic roads around there and I love Barcelona. In July when I was in Romania for work, I solo rented a BMW F650GS for 2 days and rode the Transfagarsan Highway, saw Vlad the Impaler’s castle and rode the highest pass in Romania (Transalpina?). It was a cool trip although the weather generally really sucked. In August the real treat of the summer was renting a BMW S1000XR in Zagreb, Croatia with a couple of friends. We rode down into Bosnia for an hour or so and then back into Croatia for the night. Rode up the coast and stayed over the border in Italy the next night, and then spent the last day riding across Slovenia (besides a 30 min dip into Austria on a killer road on which I managed to get a ticket). Really awesome time besides dropping bike in a gravel parking lot on top of a mountain (last day). Rental guy was super cool and got some the replacement parts on ebay so I didn’t go broke fixing scratches. The S1000XR is an amazing machine! The quick-shifter and auto-blipper were ridiculously fun. It isn’t something I was interested in but, wow. Just fricking wow. There’s plenty of reviews out there so I won’t spend too much time on it, but it’s a do it all weapon. I didn’t love the tires that were on it and I’m glad I don’t have to pay for maintenance for it but it’s pretty perfect for someone who wants a versatile bike (if ya got the cash). I should mention that I started riding on the track in 2018 as well. I put some Michelin Power RSs on the GSXR in April and took it to Mettet, a small track in Belgium. Didn’t make it back until August and was able to have a lot of fun booking a whole weekend and getting pretty comfortable with kneedown antics. Did another weekend in September and got moved to group 3 because of my laptimes (group 4 is fastest) and that was pretty satisfying. Destroyed my rear tire on that weekend and got a new one put on at the same time I had Road 5s mounted to my 07. Tried to squeeze one last track day out at the end of September at Zolder but went down as it seems I should have replaced the front when I did the rear. The cheap Chinese plastics on the GSXR exploded, broke off left clip on and cracked the stator cover ending my season a few sessions early. Only cost about $200 to fix mechanically and I got some used track fairings on FB marketplace for 300 (almost 2 sets actually). That pretty much brings me to now, looking out the window at 6 inches of snow. Looking forward to more trips and track days in my last year living in Germany! I tried to be brief if you can't tell from my writing style. Hope I didn’t put anyone to sleep, lol. I posted a few pics in a gallery I just made, if you'd like get a little visual.
  2. 14 points
    Welcome to the forum. You can ask questions and we will do our best to answer them. I have been riding since 1974 on dirtbikes, streetbikes since 1983. I have lost 7 people in my life from motorcycle accidents. All but three were due to rider error. And one would had lived if he had been wearing a full face helmet. Please, read my following advice. 1. Gear. When you are riding, look down for a second at the pavement going by. You are floating on the worlds biggest power sander. When you go down, the first issue is imapct, then it becomes about your clothes and skin being ground away from your body. So, when you are looking down, ask yourself if your gear is good enough to survive impact AND the skid. The VERY FIRST UPGRADE YOU SHOULD GET IS THE BEST GEAR THAT YOU CAN AFFORD. Period. Screw ECU flashing, screw exhaust, screw seat, screw anything else that does not protect you during a crash or laydown at speed. Jeans melt into your skin and get sanded away as you slide on pavement. Below are links to nothing but closeout pricing on outstanding good riding gear that is all on sale! I suggest buying from Revzilla because if something doesn't fit, they have the very best return policies. Cycle Gear is good as well, but avoid most of their Bilt products. Some will argue with me, but its the truth. Helmets I only wear helmets that are ECE 22.05 rated. DOT rating means nothing. HERE ARE LINKS TO NOTHING BUT ECE 22.05 RATED HELMETS, MANY ON SALE. OK, now that you have good protective gear on the way, it is time for you to sign up for a good motorcycle class. I can see from your ip address that you are from Florida (don't worry, all websites show your ip address to the admin) Be smart, sign up for a class ASAP https://www.flhsmv.gov/driver-licenses-id-cards/motorcycle-rider-education-endorsements/florida-rider-training-program-courses/ Go find a parking lot, a big empty one and practice stopping and swerving at 35 mph. Then, start practicing at 55 mph. Over and over again. When riding, what kills most new riders is this fact. Whatever you are looking at, is where your bike will go. So, be looking 20 yards ahead or farther, and only where you want to go. Notice an obstacle or a car or a kid? Dont stare at it or you will run right into it. Always look at the exit, look only at where you want to go. Have fun, be safe and dont be in a hurry to upgrade your bike. Be in a hurry to get to know everything about it. Spent a good amount of time on this forum, tech tips section has everything you need to know about this bike. Also, use the search feature to look up questions before asking them, the subject has probably already been covered. And, take a sec and upload a profile pic so you dont look like a newb. And place your pin on the memebr map! WELCOME! you are gonna love that bike!!
  3. 13 points
    I was on the highway today and saw brake lights coming on up ahead, slowed down and then stopped. Me being curious, I started riding up the side of the road around the cars and then instantly regretted it. A rider on a R-6 was in a lump. It was bad and shook me to the core. I got home, went online and see on a local FB riding group that the guy died. Chest and head impact. I then remembered that I own a forum where other riders come to read and learn, so let me take this opportunity to preach. If you have loved ones who would lose it if you were to leave this earth, and you have a cheap or older helmet, ride without protective clothing, you need to stop and start looking for better gear. If you spend more on your exhaust and bike upgrades than you do on your safety gear, Im sorry, but you are an idiot or just not thinking about the people who depend on you. I read your posts on here, I enjoy reading your posts. But sometimes I see people saying this or that helmet of jacket is too expensive, and then see the same people go out and spend $1,200 on an exhaust. Good gear is much cheaper than an emergency room visit. Good gear is also cheaper than Funeral arrangements. Here is a link for anyone who isn't 100% positive about their gear. This is all the gear that is currently on sale at Revzilla, they have really easy return and refund policies. Closeout Riding Gear - RevZilla WWW.REVZILLA.COM Closeout Riding Gear - Free Shipping, No Hassle Returns and the Lowest Prices - Guaranteed What should your first bike upgrade be? The very best gear that you can afford to buy. And don't skimp on jacket's, either. And a lot of the helmets/jackets on ebay and even some on Amazon are cheap knockoffs. Don't trust em.
  4. 12 points
    I haven't been on this forum for awhile since my project had many delays. We still aren't done but done enough to test the bike and me out last Friday. Video and pics from my practice day at Road Atlanta yesterday. We missed the morning sessions due to some issues but rode the 3 afternoon sessions. The video starts with me being pushed to pit out and the first time ever back on a motorcycle one day prior to my 6 year crash anniversary. I'm pretty sketchy the first session out. At 6:41 the video flips to the third session and I'm already much more comfortable. I took about 30 seconds off my lap times from just the first to third sessions. Got down to a 2:11 in the third session which is slow but I was still being conservative since it's all still new to me. Before my crash I think I turned 1:44's at Road Atlanta on my Aprilia/RZ 396cc 2T hybrid. Huge props to Doug McCracken. I wouldn't have been out there if it weren't for him. More mods to the bike are coming. Also have to thank Sue, Dustin Ducote, Pops, Richie, Edwin, Stick, all of WERA and many more who helped me along the way to get me where I am today. I decided to not race Saturday because I would have to start from pit lane and I know I'd get lapped. Some racers have traveled far and are spending hard earned money to race and I don't want to get in their way if fighting for a win or position. We had a great day and much to build upon. https://youtu.be/vteXo1czNWE https://youtu.be/ZHIXCDr1cN4
  5. 12 points
    So I've been riding for 3 years and have owned 3 different harleys. 883 1200 dyna. Seems like the normal progression for most HD guys. Until the last couple weeks I hadn't ridden a street bike for more than 15 minutes. Today i bought my MT 07 with ZERO miles on it!. First new bike and let me tell you the difference is absolutley shocking to me. The MT 07 is smoother, faster accerleration than all 3 (mostly comparable to my 1200, its close but I do beleive the MT wins by 1.5sec 0 to 60), and more stable at high speeds (aside from the dyna at about 92mph+, dynas are 700lb tanks). Not to mention it handles better than ALL 3 COMBINED. I never knew you street bike guys had so much goddamn fun on these things. I took a turn at 40 that I could probably take at 25 max on my sporty on the way home from the dealership, it was SMOOOOOOOTH. I mean hot damn. It's rekindled my flame for riding (the flame was large but now its a hungry ravenous monster). Lets feed the beast, it's 10pm and about 40 degrees outside and odds are im going for a midnight cruise . I doubt I'll ever grab the keys for my harley again, i mean that. Having a bike that doesnt set off car alarms and rattle your brain every time u touch the throttle is awesome. It feels like im riding on tiny little angels. The suspension is awesome, handling is awesome, speed is awesome. and the day I outgrow this thing after spending a ridiculous amount of money on aftermarket goodies , im buying a MT 09. Yamaha just nabbed their most impulsive customer yet. 400 more miles to go until my break in is over and I can really push this thing to the limit. Anyway, ive been lurking on these forums for a while now, creeping on all your posts. Figured id come out of the shadows and introduce myself and my excitement. P.S if i go missing its because my wife noticed there is another bike in our garage. send help, make sure they are armed, shes bat shet crazy.
  6. 12 points
    What did I do to my FZ-07 Today? I wheeled it to the other side of the garage so I can make room for this: Tarmac Faction's Cafe Racer Project...the ultimate XSR900!!! Some of you know I started my own road racing team, Tarmac Faction, using the Yamaha R3. Well, I wanted something to fill the gap between my R3 racebike and my MotoGP Inspired FZ-07 streetbike. Something worthy of both, but with a unique style all it's own. This is the result. Hope you like it The first pic shows the rendering on top with the finished bike below. It's not everyday you get to see what actually goes into making one of these special bikes, but at Tarmac Faction there are no secrets. I wanted to show the world what's possible when injecting an ordinary bike with the DNA of a racebike, using the highest quality components available to the public. Nothing on this bike was fabricated with the exception of the turn signals and rear tail light, and from start to completion the project took just 4 weeks. . BellissiMoto - overall sponsor, workshop garage space to build it, Beta tools . Bitubo —ECH29 Fork Cartridges, CLU31 Rear Shock . Brembo/Race Technologies - .484 Calipers w/spacer kit . CNC Racing — Rocket Mirror/Bar end, Brake Lever Guard, and adapters . Competition Werkes — Custom GP Exhaust, Black w/ Stainless Rivets and Brushed Nostalgic Logo . DID — ZVM-X Series X-Ring, Natural Finish . Domino — XM2 Quick Turn Throttle, A350 Turismo Grips . Driven — Halo Fuel Cap/Base, Front Sprocket . Dymag — UP7X Forged Aluminum Wheels . Earth-X — ETX18F . EBC Brakes — EPFA Pads Front/Rear, VEE Rotors Front/Rear . Fabrication Syndicate — Cut and grind metal work . Gilles Tooling — 2DGT Adjustable Handlebar Risers, FXR Levers, Aluminum Steering Nut, Front Brake Master Cylinder Cover, AXB Chain Adjusters, Titanium Axle Nut, Paddock Stands, Rear Brake Reservoir Cap, Oil Fill Plug . Incognito Wraps - Vinyl Graphics . Liqui Moly — Street/Race Fully Synthetic Oil . Motodemic — 7 inch Adaptive LED Headlight Conversion, Gauge Relocation Kit, Gauge Cover . Motorrev Suspension Tuning - Install of the Bitubo ECH 29 cartridge kit . MWR — High Efficiency Air Flter . New Rage Cycles — Custom Front Turn Signals, and Custom Rear Tail Light/Fender Eliminator . PROTI — Forged Titanium Hardware for Rotors, ABS Sensors, and ABS Wheel Rings . R&G Racing — Engine Covers (Clutch, Starter, and Generator/Waterpump), Frame Sliders, Radiator Guard, Footrest Blanking Plates . Racer’s Edge Performance — lending a wrenching hand during the initial build stage . Rapidbike — RapidBike EVO, Shift Assist Quickshifter with Auto-Blip Downshift . RC Trans - CNC machine work . Spiegler Performance — SS Lines in Vintage Black . Stoltec Moto — Lightweight front wheel Spacer, Custom ECU Flash, Chassis Set-Up . SW MOTECH — Front Fender, Front Spoiler . TechSpec — X-Line Cut-to-Fit Tank Grips w/aggressive adhesive . TST — Flasher Relay . Woodcraft Technologies - Rearsets . Worldwide Bearings — Ceramic Wheel Bearings . Yamaha of Las Vegas — Yamaha Clubman Bars, Yamaha Custom Seat, Aluminum Seat Cowl - Paul
  7. 12 points
  8. 12 points


    I joined this and 100% forgot about it. I'm dumb. Hi I'm Jake. Sometimes I make youtube videos and ride my fz-07 in stupid places. It's GREAT!
  9. 11 points
  10. 11 points
    Thanks for the welcome guys, sorry I forgot to say yes it is the 2018, I'm hoping parts become plentiful for this gen like it was for the previous one. Stuff like the extra fairings and what not. Here she is all blue and what not
  11. 10 points
    Thought I'd share this upgrade I did recently on my MT07. It came about from owning both an R3 and MT07 at the same time, and absolutely hating the way the MT07 switch gear worked, as well as the "parts bin" look of the switch with it's missing component on the right-hand side. Anyway, I decided to install an MT03 switch instead primarily because it's so much easier to operate while riding with far more tactile switches that are also positioned better. A bonus is that it looks a lot better too and like it was actually designed for the bike. It's not quite plug and play and took some testing with a multimeter and perusing the wiring diagrams to sort out but in the end is very simple to do, especially now that I've deciphered it. So here you go, for anyone who hates the stock switch, grab one from a MT03 and follow the steps below. IMPORTANT: The R3 switch will not work. Although the switch is identical, the R3 has separate low beam and high beam circuits for each bulb and so the green wire at Pin 10 does not exist on the R3 switch. The correct part number is B04-H3972-00 from a 2016 onwards MT03. The incorrect part number is 1WD-H3972-00 from a 2016 onwards R3.
  12. 10 points
    Well after retiring , liquidating my shop in SoCal and moving to beautiful New Mexico to live out my senior years it seems i couldn't leave well enough alone . I happened upon a damaged 2015 FZ-07 and thought - "that'd make a fun track bike !!". The previous owner had made a valiant effort to cut a u-turning sedan in half and had come up somewhat short - not as short as the wheel base on his FZ-07 - but close. I picked it up for a fair price and immediately started ordering parts . The mandate for this build is to keep it close to street legal . I'm not trying to build a championship winning motorcycle . After years of racing Ohlins suspended motorcycles i am used to and want something that handles . I haven't ridden a twin since my duck days but reading up on this model it seems it has plenty of torque and more than adequate power so i'm going to leave the engine alone. Not interested in race fairings - again just want a track day or occasional race day bike. First order of business was to build a rudimentary work bench . I'm too old to work on my hands and knees. There is so much great and useful information this site !!. I ordered up a cbr600rr shock, after market rear sets , front stem stand , stock forks , swingarm spools , case savers and all balls steering head bearings to get started . It has an M-4 slip on which is fine for now . I'm selling stuff on Ebay to fund this build and hope to have the funds soon for Ohlins cartridges , reflashed ECU with quick shifter and maybe a GPR steering damper . After that braided lines , maybe a brembo master , chain and sprocket kit etc . I'm going to keep a running $$ total . Once it's done and i'm happy with it i'll maybe race it to prove it's worth and then probably list it - or maybe not :))) - depends on how much fun i'm having . My wife isn't happy about me returning to the track lol . Beginning pics attached - any and all advice or tips appreciated.
  13. 10 points
    I might get slammed for this, but I'm not feeling bad for you - NOT AT ALL! Dude, you were riding like a f.ucking idiot, and you are lucky you are alive. What we don't know is if you caused anyone else to get into a wreck/get hurt/get dead from how you were riding. nuf said...
  14. 10 points
    So you're thinking about participating in a track day event. Good for you! You'll have a blast. There is no better way to have fun than learning to go faster(ish) on the relative safety of a racetrack. Everyone going the same direction, w/o fear of turning traffic, wild animals, cell phones, distracted drivers, or law enforcement. An environment free of curbs, signposts, delineators or parked cars, with sand traps and run offs created to make mistakes painless. Learning how to be a better rider, exploring your and your bike's limits and all while hopefully sharing it with friends. Here are just a few things that may make the preperation less stressful, help you enjoy it more and prevent some common mistakes that often cause trouble along the way. And by the way, a track day (un-timed, closed course event) is covered by most auto insurance should you 'oops'. Your health insurance covers you in the event it's needed. The event itself; First off, a track day event is not a race. You do not have to worry about, "I'm not fast enough", or "I don't like competition" . There are groups for every level of rider from rank newb to veteran fast guy. There is no need to be intimidated or worry that, "I wont be able to poke along at my pace" because there is always someone else with your skill and mindset wanting to do the same thing. The provider will have trackside corner workers (flaggers) and First Responders (ambulances) present for safety as well. There will also be Control Riders present in each group to control pace, assist with riding technique, nip goof-offs in the bud, show ride line and to give feedback on your performance. Don't be afraid to enlist their assistance or ask for tips or 'a tow'. They are there because they love to ride, love the track and want to help. Once at the track there will be a required Riders Meeting. Don't miss this. Here is your chance to ask your questions and make sure you feel comfortable with the proceedures, flagging, your gear, what ever. Track riding will usually take place in cycles, 3-20 minute sessions per hour and then cycle throughout the day. For instance Novice, Intermediate, Expert, Novice, Intermediate, Expert....all day. You will be on track for 20 minutes each hour then have 40 minutes off track to refresh, rehydrate, refuel, use the restroom or whatever. Don't worry, you will find that 20 minutes will kick your butt and you will need the full 40 minutes to recharge. Once you decide to try it; When you sign up for an event you will have to pick a group to ride in, usually classified as Novice, Intermediate & Expert, or something similar. Some times groups are split a step further too, Intermediate 1 and Intermediate 2 for iinstance. The event promoter will help you if you are confused about your level of riding. Unless you have some credentials that suggest otherwise the provider will usually put folks with no, or limited, track experience in Novice or Beginner. A seasoned track day rider or novice club racer is most likely in Intermediate. Where as expert club racers or track day veterans on bigger bikes would go into Expert or Fast, which ever the promoter uses to delineate faster riders. Keep in mind these classes are flexible and people frequently move up or down a class for various reasons. There are seperate rules in each Group that govern when, where and how passing is allowed to help with safety and let the beginners have fun at their level yet allow the folks in the Fast Group to stretch their throttle cables. You, your bike and your gear; You don't need a full hog 1000cc racebike or even a sportbike for that matter to enjoy a track day. Many folks have taken their Goldwings, standards, dirtbikes, or cruisers on track and had a hoot. The bike must be in good mechanical condition with no fluids leaking. Tires should have at least 50% tire tread and check and recheck tire pressures. Good functional front and rear brakes. Some track day providers require replacing the standard coolant with a track friendly variant like Water Wetter, Engine Ice, or simply plain distilled water. It will specify in their sign up packets what is required. Make sure all your controls operate freely and are in good condition. No frayed cables, duct taped case covers or flapping body work. Check and top off your oil and brake fluid levels. You will probably be required to remove license plates and mirrors and tape over lights to prevent sharp flying objects in the event of a crash. Beginner protective gear normally consists of a riding suit of some sort. Generally doesn't have to be a one piece race suit. A two piece riding suit that zips together, made of leather or textile will usually fulfill the requirements. Boots that cover the ankle, full gauntlet gloves and a good helmet that fits. Back protectors are reccamended but usually optional for beginners. Higher levels frequently require better or more gear. A minimal toolkit that allows adjusting controls, a gas can (cause you're gonna have a ton of fun and burn through the gas). A cooler with ice, water, sports drinks, fruit, lighter foods and refreshments make the day more enjoyable. Umbrella or pop up sun shelter is nice, a chair, sunscreen, hats, towels, and bug spray if needed completes your kit. It's really pretty easy. Pick a nearby track. Google up a track day provider at said track. Use their Web site or simply call the provided number and talk to them. They want you there and will do everything they can to make you a repeat track day hero! Giddyup
  15. 10 points
    Maybe have it recovered in squirrel fur as a warning.
  16. 10 points
    This 2017 Fz-07 was built by Greg Hageman of HagemanMC. It’s the fourth bike Greg has done for Mike, and it is the youngest by 35 years. Greg and Mike are both in Their early 50s, and though they never met, they both grew up in Dubuque, Iowa. Greg makes his home in Davenport, IA. Mike live's in Leawood, KS. In 2010 Greg was featured in season one of Café Racer TV. Greg reworked a Yamaha Bolt and won a Yamaha-sponsored worldwide competition. Later, Yamaha approached Greg to attend to the xsr700 in advance of its U.S. debut, and soon Greg had an Fz-07 in his garage upon which he could familiarize himself with the bike ahead of taking delivery of an xsr. Yamaha liked Greg’s early work on the Fz and quickly asked that he turn his attention to the xsr. Greg completed a gorgeous xsr, complete with a matching 70’s xs650 restomod. The pair were used in an xsr700 Yamaha Faster Sons TV commercial in which Greg makes a cameo appearance. Meanwhile the Fz-07 sat. It rested as a work in process, a styling exercise on pause. Greg offered to let Mike break the bike in, and he just fell in love with it for all the reasons well known to the Fz07.org contingent. Mike bought the bike, rode it all he could, and waited for a gap within Greg’s stream of commissioned builds. Jake Green of MantraMoto fashioned a full stainless exhaust featuring twin slash-cut cans. Why the slash-cuts? Cannot say for sure, but Greg and Mike had been working off a potential Fz design brief where the bike would be made to look a bit older and racier. The curves in the header pipes did not fit that ethos, so Jake made the pipes straight, simple, and tucked-in under the bike. It was about that time when Mike joined the Fz07.org group and posted a pick of the bike. In early 2018 Greg had some time, so the bike went back to Iowa and the transformation began. The design brief continued to get refined. We were after a bike that was cleaned up, worked with the stock tank panels, and something that looked like an early streetfighter with TZ race bike cues. That meant no wavy brake rotors, no twisty-spoke wheels, and a redo of the tail section/subframe. With respect to the latter, Greg hand-formed the cowl in steel and matched it to an xsr700 solo seat. The rear of the cowl has black mesh which conceal some trick round taillights that mimic those from the Ferrari 488 GTO. The tail treatment gives the bike a sexier hourglass shape when viewed from above. Racy side panels offer a conventional and vintage look. The stock tank scoops and tank trim panels were replaced with matte carbon fiber, and remaining body parts were treated to a candy gold with Yamaha speedblocks. From there, it was all about executing on several details. A Hordpower airbox eliminator and 2WD ECU reflash aligned everything with the free-flowing exhaust. Fat bars and ProTapper added some drama. A traditional headlight bucket holds a round headlight with integrated turn signal LEDs. A round xsr700 gauge replaces the stock gauge. A Rizoma hugger front fender blends nicely, while the rear has a Puig hugger. Ohlins cartridges and rear shock transformed the ride and handling. Pirelli Phantoms offer a vintage tread pattern on a modern radial. All this resulted one sexed-up Fz-07. One of Greg’s enduring talents is that his bikes have an exotic presence that distances his products from the donor bike beginnings, and yet the cohesiveness and realism of the final product provides the illusion, just maybe, the factory could have produced the bike. Pity the riding season is pretty much over in the Midwest.
  17. 10 points
    Congrats to Darren James and Ruthless Racing on 3rd place and his first podium on the fz07r in the Twin Cup at Sonoma Raceway!
  18. 9 points
    I have owned this since new. I have had it covered up in various garages for the past 30 years. A few weeks ago I found out how much they are selling for now, so I thought it might be a good time to get it road worthy again......................and sell it! It was/is a blast to ride. You think the FZ is light!
  19. 9 points
    Hey guys. Here the final video for this cockpit/dash project. Hope you'll like it.
  20. 9 points
    Done and done...picked her up today and I could not be happier. Had to ride home in the rain, but it didn’t even matter. You guys were right, the bike is light and nice in the turns. WHAT A DIFFERENCE! My concerns were the turns and stalling out...and shifting...but it was so much smoother than I expected. The sitting position was not bad either. While my Slim is comfy on the backside, the sitting position was starting to bother me. Def higher on this bike but not bad. Hand position was nicer...closer together so for me, the wind wasn’t that bad. I mean, I should have started out with this bike. I can see what people mean about it being a serious but fun bike to ride! Thanks for all the advice!!
  21. 8 points
    So I silently volunteered myself to be a guinea pig for the benefit of my fellow forum members. I think im the first person to slap the "new" 2018 rear shock on a first generation bike. I would like to get a few things out in the open before I give my thoughts. 1st, ive got just over 10,000 miles on my 2017 with stock suspension. Only change ive made is 10mm additional preload in the front forks-so i feel well qualified to have an opinion on the stock 2017 rear shock. It sucks. It really, really sucks. 2nd, im not a track rider or even really an advanced rider. 3rd, the 2018 shock is not track ready equipment. 4th, im still on the original bt023 tires. 5th, my bike is primarily a commuter. 55 miles daily with a mix of 80mph freeway and rutted chewed up city streets. However, ive burned through a couple hundred miles with this new shock and wanted to share my thoughts on this upgrade. Im 205lbs and 5 ft 9 for reference. The 2018 shock is FAR better at bump absorbing, road tracking and generally rear tire stability. I have good rear sag with the shock in the stock 4th click. I did some testing on the rebound adjuster and found for street use it seems to ride best right around the middle. When i brake hard and fast the nose only tips forward slightly. When i lean into 25mph darts across intersections, my back tire no longer feels like its skipping across the pavement. There are several turns on my way home from work that cross rail road tracks. Ive been hitting those same 40 mph(speed zone) turns at 55mph for almost 2 years now. Those railroad tracks would bump me off the seat and the bike would cycle up and down 2 or 3 times at least and wiggle unstably throught the turn. I just got used to lifting my bottom off the seat. With the new shock i hit those same turns at the same speed. The rear shock compresses and then pushes back down on the pavement. Doesnt bump me out of the seat and the bike doesnt wiggle while trying to settle itself. Ya know. Like a rear shock is supposed to. The bike feels exponentially more stable in all the corners ive tossed it into since i put the 2018 shock on. I also dont have to stand over the seat for small or even moderate bumps anymore. It tracks better, feels less squirelly in corners and is much more comfortable now. Also noticed it isnt as wiggly on the highway, perticularly when passing large vehicles. So in conclusion, no its not an ohlins. No its not a ktech or wilbers. But for the $270 they cost new or under $100 they can be found used(rare on ebay but they do come up) its a massive improvement to the whole experience. And unlike the cbr shock it requires no airbox mods. For the price on a street ridden bike id do it again. Please if anyone has any questions im happy to answer them. TLDR-the 2018 rear shock is way better than the 2015-2017 rear shock and isnt expensive. Worth considering if you want to improve the bike but dont have $500 to buy something nicer and arent planning to hit the track.
  22. 8 points
    I recently set about doing a throttle body sync today, and needed to fully remove the fairings around the tank on my 2018, and realized there's basically no videos or guides showing this with the newer model, and it differs pretty substantially from the earlier models for which videos and guides abound. So, without further ado: Removing the tank fairings on the 2018+ MT07! First, remove the seats. Screws 1 and 2 are at the base of the seat - release the passenger seat, then remove these two screws, and remove the seat. Next, remove the screws on the sides of the scoops: Then the screws at the front of the scoops. Note, only the marked screws (one on each side) not the silver screws. Then you can pop the scoops off. Pull out at the bottom first to release the big pins in the rubber grommets (see photos) then pop out the clips along the top of the scoop. Because you've taken the pins on the bottom out first, you can tilt the bottom of the scoop away from the bike just a little bit to help pop the top clips out (note their shape) - only tilt the scoop a little, you don't want to snap the clips off! Be gentle. With the clips, I find it helps to start at the rearmost one, and pop them out one at a time working forward. Now you've got the scoops off, there's just 4 more screws to go and you're done. First, pop the two screws off the top of the tank, just forward of the filler: Then the two screws at the front of the fairing: And it's free! There are no more screws or clips, you can pull the centerpiece and both side colored panels off as a single unit. You may need to pull the seat-side bottom edges out a bit (it sits on rubber bumpers attached to the chrome bracket that holds the back of the tank down, so you have to lift the edges of the fairing out over those bumpers) and the front edges by the forks need to be worked around cables. Just gently work the cover off, and voila! I hope this helps someone. The first time I did this, I took out WAY WAY too many screws, silly pushpins, and other such stuff. In fact, the only reason you need to pop the scoops off is to get at the screws at the front of the fairing (11 and 12 above). If not for those two screws, you could take the whole fairing off - scoops and all - in a single piece.
  23. 8 points
    I had to custom order it, and my dealer said I was the first in Florida to get this colour, and possibly the first in the US. Anyone else have ice fluo? Trade-in in the background.
  24. 8 points
    Hi all. I've been lurking here a few weeks while deciding on my next bike. Have always been interested in the MT-07 and a great deal popped up so I nabbed it. 2016, 11,000km, with the Akra Carbon in the awesome blue. Here in Australia, 90% of MT-07's are a learner restricted model which is 660cc and 52hp and so all the colour options are for the learner version. I managed to find a HO version (high output) which is what the rest of the world have. The colour options here for the HO model are either blue... or.... that's it, just blue. Either way I absolutely love it and think I would have chosen the blue regardless. My riding history. I've been riding 8 years now and have owned about 30 different bikes. I usually have 3 at any one time. The commuter, the dirt bike, and the comfy one for me and the wife. My commuter for the last few months has been an R3. Awesome little bike, but suffers from savage on/off fuelling, grabby clutch and bouncy as hell suspension. Awesome gearbox and engine though and makes a fine noise for a small parallel twin. Perfect size for commuting and lane splitting but the fuelling and clutch detract from this slightly. Prior to that, I had an XSR900. Probably the best bike I've owned to date. But seeing it wasn't my dirt bike, and it definitely wasn't comfy for the wife, it was my commuter. And a commuter it is not. It suffered from the same on/off fuelling and was very tall (I'm 5'8) and very wide so not great for splitting. And it had mountains of power. It really felt at home in the hills where you could open it right up and with the Akra Titanium it sounded great (for a triple) but was definitely overkill for my 60km/h maximum commute. Good suspension, very slick gearbox aside from the heavy clunk into 1st, and beautiful power delivery. I had it flashed which solved the on/off injector cut issue which was just as bad as on the R3. I've also owned a Street Triple, a few SV650's, CB900 Hornets and about 10 bikes from the 80's. The MT-07. Having never ridden one, I had a few expectations. I knew what they sounded like, and that they could sound incredible with the right exhaust. I would have prefferred the Akra Titanium but was pretty happy to at least get one with the Carbon and not the standard exhaust. I expected it to have the same on/off fuelling as the XSR900 and R3. The dreaded injector cut, which means coasting downhill means you're either speeding up of savagely engine braking with no in between. I expected terrible suspension, huge torque, an uncomfy seat and nimble handing. I don't think a quick test ride is ever enough to really get an idea of how much you're going to like owning a bike or how liveable it's going to be so when I'm interested in a bike, I just buy one and then move it on when I'm done. The bike looked like new, was owned by a young female who bought it brand new, and had a full service history and some huge chicken strips. I handed over the cash and threw it on the ute without a test ride (it was late at night after work and after being stuck in traffic I just wanted to get home). Anyway, I didn't sleep last night because I was excited about going to work/riding the bike. Starting it up, it has a beautiful idle sound with the Akra Carbon + baffle. Great seating position and feels perfect ergonomically. I like the narrow bars and was one of the reasons I thought it would make a good commuter, as I need to be able to lane split. Dropping it into first, there's the clunk. Same as the XSR900. The R3 has no clunk whatsoever for reference. Doesn't bother me too much as I know it's just the nature of certain bikes. Pulling out into the street I open up the throttle a bit to hear the pipe in action. Errrr, not too keen at all on the sound. The Carbon with baffle makes this air popping spitting noise like air is being passed through a hole that's too small or like the sound of a cheap muffler. More to come later. The gearbox is great. Much smoother than I expected, and easily shifts through the gears and drops into neutral at the lights. Very impressed. Accelerating up the first big hill, the thing pulls like a train from very low down. As torquey as I expected with plenty of thrust and nice tall gearing (compared to the R3, which has stupid short gearing). Very easy to break the speed limit on this bike. Reaching the first big downhill, I'm thinking to myself here we go, time to see just how bad the engine braking/injector cut on/off crap is on this bike, which is terrible on both the XSR900 and R3, and I expected to be even worse on the MT-07. I'd assumed I'd be needing a flash without question. Well I was wrong. This bike has nothing on the R3 or XSR900. The engine braking at cruising RPM is nothing unusual at all and I'm easily able to transition from closed throttle to open throttle without feeling the power suddenly cut in and launch me forwards. I mean, it's still nowhere near as smooth as my carbed CB750 Nighthawk but it is nowhere near as bad as I'd expected based on the other Yamaha's I've owned and what I'd read online. Definitely won't need a flash based on this only. I then took a detour into the hills to open it up a bit. At this point, I'm really not a fan of the exhaust at all. It sounds loud and nasty at anything over 1/2 throttle. Cruising rpm it sounds amazing, and same with light to moderate acceleration, but really opening it up it becomes obnoxious and totally loses its deep bass tone. Suspension wise, not as bad as I expected. It's noticably firmer than the R3 and pogos a lot less. I didn't push it too hard as where I am the hills are always crawling with police and the road in only 70km/h but taking the tight corners quickly, it's quite confidence inspiring. Unless I get into a lot more hard mountain riding, at this stage I don't see the stock suspension as being an issue. The gearbox and motor performed beautifully. Overall. I really really like this bike after the first ride. Generally, it just feels right and brings a lot to the table in terms of what I look for in a fun commuter. Low down power, light and flickable, great sound (although only at lower throttle) and a comfortable position. I am in no way brand loyal (except to Honda) and I am definitely not one of those people who buys a bike and then feels the need to defend it and say how awesome it is. But I can honestly say that so far I am very impressed. I'm sure once I've had a few weeks to live with it my opinion might change (for better or worse) once I get to know the bike, but at this stage I'm super happy and definitely not regretting the purchase. Now just to work out what to do about that exhaust...
  25. 8 points
    When you post on this forum, Google reads and records your post within 24 hours. We built the website to work like that. This means that when you post a pic, new topic, helpful DIY tech tip or news, it goes up in google search results and it will be found and read by thousands of people for years to come. It will still get seen ten years from now. Post it in a facebook group, it will only be seen by members of that group ( and marketing companies collecting data on you) for a day, maybe 3 days max. It doesn't show up in google search results. Then it gets buried on the bottom of the FB group. It's gone forever. Also. When you post on this forum, you choose a category. We have different categories for different topics. this makes your beautiful pics or helpful tech posts become very easy to find. Good luck finding helpful engine, suspension, or lighting advice on Facebook or Reddit. Do a search, you might get lucky. But probably not because of the nature of generic one page groups. They are giant clusterphucks of everything all on one page, jumbled together. Lastly There is no privacy on Facebook Groups, no matter what settings you may have set. Marketing companies compile your data and sell it to other companies. Facebook gives certain data companies, the govt, the police, full access to all of your data. Your friends, where you go via your phone, your private messages, your posts, your locations, your political statements. Great effort is put into deciphering what you post on Facebook and classifying you into a profile. Then, companies market towards you via not just facebook, but all over. Here on fz07.org, we do not share or sell your info. We do not share your personal messages because our staff doesn't even have access to your personal messages. They are private, between you and the other recipient and they are also encrypted. I would have to go to great lengths to read any of your messages, because of the many safeguards purposely built into this software. Furthermore Facebook and Reddit are kind of generic. I love Reddit for interesting posts and stuff, but not for motorcycle info. This forum has tons more features than they offer. You can change colors here. And if you prefer a generic "all in one thread" look, then just go to "Browse" and click on "all activity". It auto updates and you can even save that page to your favorites in your browser and always see this forum in one thread. Many of you don't even look around or use the features we have here. This isn't the "old style" forum. This place is full of features that you haven't found yet, and I am turning more on soon. Place your pin in the member map. You can then see who else is in your area, click on their pin and send them a PM and invite them to ride with you. Can't do that on Facebook or reddit. Go to your profile. Like on Facebook, you can write status updates and even share things to other members profile, pics, vids, messages. I bet most of you didn't know this. Go to "account settings". There are a bunch of account controls in there you should at least look at. Forums were the original social media. And after Facebook and the like came out, we forum owners have been busy incorporating new features to our forums. Don't waste important helpful info someplace where it will just get buried and disappear in 24 hours. This is the social media site for MT-07 owners and we go to great lengths to protect your data and content.
  26. 8 points
    Picked up my 2018 MT-07 yesterday and I'm already 100 miles into the break in period. It didn't take me long to start changing things up to make it mine. Painted the exhaust shield and gas cap black because I don't like silver things, it's too dark to take pics right now. I like how easy the feel of the shifter is but I hate how far you need to move it so I re-positioned the point of attachment on the shift arm to shorten the throw. This adjustment is a balancing act because if you move it too far you'll lose so much leverage that it's become hard to move the shift lever with your toe. At first I thought I moved it too much as it was quick to shift but harder then I would have liked, you can't have your cake and est it too. After 30 miles of riding I've gotten used to the difference in the input needed but If I had to do it again I'd try moving it about 20% less. I may spend the $18 and buy another arm to try it at a slightly different position. I flipped the shift arm to go back to the GP style shifting I prefer and trimmed away the side cover to allow the rod to pass through. The clutch lever on these things has an odd feel I don't like so much so I robbed the super trick CRG clutch lever and perch from the defunked ninja 250 and mounted it to the MT which gave me back that fluid clutch feel I so like. This setup is unique in that it has 3 positions to mount the cable which changes the pull ratio of the cable to actuate it faster for a quick bit or slower for more feel. Because I changed the clutch perch I lost my left mirror so I mounted a CRG Lane Splitter bar end mirror which was given to me yesterday by a friend. I'll probably give a short review on these once I get a few weeks on them. New Pro Taper soft grips for my old man hands. I was hoping for a R6 throttle tube as well but none were in stock. Clipped some mini bungees under the passenger seat so I could go grab some dinner. I miss not having my givi top case but this'll have to do for now, not sure if it'll fit a pizza though.
  27. 8 points
    I have noticed new people joining only to sell something on the forum, and then they split. These folks do not take part in the forum, they dont help answer questions for new riders, they don't participate or contribute in any way. Also, we don't know these people. Do we want to be sending money to someone that we don't know at all? As part of our terms, the operators of this forum have absolutely no liability concerning these classifieds transactions, all sales conducted via the fz07 forum classifieds are between the buyer and the seller. So, along those lines, in order to be able to post at all in the classifieds section, you must now have at least 25 posts on the forum. this can be in the form of new posts or comments. Forums are for learning and sharing, not just selling your shet and moving along.
  28. 8 points
    Saturday morning practice, Sprint races today. Pirelli rep just dropped off our endurance slicks and felt he had to crash for effect... A lttle bench racing Saturday night, Heading off for the 5 hour endurance sighting lap, Strategy, Katie givin'er the spurs, And the team, "Slicks, Chics and a Lucky Old Man". Finished 5th in class (only 1 lap out of 4th with 135 laps) and 11th overall out of 23 teams. One meatball, you're welcome, for a pit lane violation. Oops. Shout out to Cornerslider who stopped in to say 'Hi', even tho he was working in the enemies pit (a friend's fz07r team)
  29. 7 points
    Yep, it's official... I'm race prepping my FZ-07. Figured I'd start a thread I'm too old to race Junior Cup on my R3 in MotoAmerica, so I'm selling it and gonna try my hand with the FZ-07, since, ya know...I already have one that's decently set up (and age limits aren't a factor in the MotoAmerica Pro Twins Class). For race prep though, I'll change it up a bit... I had some deliveries already pics attached Changing my Yoyodyne Slipper Clutch for a Suter, and taking out my original AP shock link (which is just the dogbone I think they call it), to put in the Altus Motorsports set up (link + dogbone) I have some intake solutions which can't be revealed at the moment, and I'm gonna "massage" the motor a bit (leaving the bottom end alone). As far as engine management, I've been super happy with my RapidBike set up on my R3. It's never, ever been to a dyno, and made just as much power (or more in some instances) than "tuned" bikes, so I'm sticking with them. I have the RapidBike Race, RapidBike My Tune, and Rapid Bike You Tune waiting for me to install. Currently, I have the Akra Ti w/o baffle as far as exhaust, but I may be on the verge to do some prototyping with another manufacturer to start making a full system. If so, we're in a good position, because they can use my Akra Ti as a benchmark, since it's known to be one of the top performing systems for our bikes, and try to best it. Should be fun. I'l update this thread as it develops. - Paul
  30. 7 points
    And good news! We're expecting, Headed to the shop. Gonna be a great day...
  31. 7 points
    Well, better late than never. After a busy weekend competing in the MotoAmerica Dunlop Championship round at Road America here it is; 21st place. We were unable to get Nathan qualified on his Suzuki SV650 due to some mechanical issues but we got Tony out there on Blue Line Racings Yamaha FZ07R and had a wonderful time. Re-connected with some old friends, made some new ones and created some magnificent memories. Congratulations to all those on the podium and to those behind the scenes that made it possible. Ground zero; During National Anthem the whole back paddock stopped and faced this flag as it was the only one visable. Very cool to see a hundred people face the flag in a show of respect. And one of the worn out happy pit boss, On a related note, Blue Line Racing has entered into discussions for a possible full season of MotoAmerica Twins Cup for 2020. Stay tuned for details.
  32. 7 points
    I was servicing my front end, and thought I would post some how-to pics. I already installed the Racetech front end (2 years ago). I thought as long as it's apart, why not help someone out that might be a bit intimidated doing it themselves- The first step is to loosen (but not remove the top cap). You want to do this ON the bike, with the fork tubes still clamped in the triple clamps. If you forget this step, you will know why very soon -...The OEM caps are silver. I have aftermarket "red" caps for preload adjustment- Loosen the axle pinch bolt (1) with a metric Allen wrench. Then, loosen (but do not remove) the axle with a 19mm wrench. The axle is behind axle slider (2) in this picture. You will see it in the next pic. Next, remove the brake caliper bolts on both sides. It's a good practice to secure them with zip ties, and NOT have them hanging from the brake lines (like I did)... Next, support the front end on a stand. If you don't have a front stand, you can "improvise" like I did. I hung a come-a-long from the ceiling (I would think a ratchet strap would work too). Anything to get the front wheel off the ground, and is secure. I put two "soft-straps" around the handlebars to help balance the bike on the come-a-long. Now, you can remove the two outer fender bolts with a metric Allen wrench. Now you should be able the remove the front axle all the way, and remove the front wheel. Be careful not to lose the axle spacers once the axle is out. Next, you can remove the "fender fairings". They lock onto the main fender in slots. Pull the bottom out sideways, while pulling the top towards you. Next, you can remove the inner fender bolts on both sides (2 on each side) with a 8mm wrench. Now you can remove the fender. There really isn't a good way to do this? I found lifting one side "up", and "rolling" the fender 90 degrees, then sliding it forward works about the best. Loosen the lower pinch bolts on each side Loosen the upper pinch bolts on each side. The fork leg will fall out when the bolt is loose enough, so secure it with your other hand. The FZ-07 has black plastic "sleeves" between the upper & lower clamps (the MT-07 does NOT have these). There is also a o-ring in the bottom of this "sleeves". I have NO idea what purpose they serve???? The sleeves will stay on the bike, the o-ring may fall out of the bottom of the sleeves. Now, you can remove the top cap on the fork leg. There will be about 10mm of "preload" on the cap. It won't hurt you, but may startle you- Next, you want to make a "hook tool" (1) out of an old coat hanger. Use this to reach inside the fork tube, and hook the fork spring. Lift it up and remove everything from the spring up (you will get oil on whatever surface your working on, so put down a towel/rag). Part number (2) is steel from the factory. This will be discarded, and will be replaced with PVC pipe included with the Racetech springs. You will need to cut it to the proper length per the included Racetech instructions. If you choose to retain the OEM springs, you will need to purchase some 1" PVC pipe, and cut it to the proper length to retain the 10mm on preload on the spring. With the fork spring removed, compress the upper fork tube, until it bottoms out in the lower fork tube. Put a tape measure inside the fork tube and measure the oil level (a flashlight helps here). It should be about 5 inches from the top. Now you can turn the fork upside down, and drain the oil into a drain pan. Next, you will need to remove the dampener rod. You will need a 8mm Allen wrench (1), and you MAY need a broom handle to hold the top of the dampener rod in place to loosen the Allen head cap screw on the bottom of the fork leg. If you have access to an impact gun, that is preferred, but I've have good luck on several bikes, with the Broom handle/Allen wrench combo . Congratulations!!!! You have now taken the internals of your fork apart. This is a very simple design, and doesn't have that many parts. Be careful not to lose the copper sealing washer on the locking bolt. Next, you will need to drill some holes in the dampener rod (1). If memory serves, the OEM has four smaller holes. Those will need to be drilled out to 5/16" diameter, and two more 5/16" diameter holes will need to be drilled. The instructions from Racetech spell it out VERY clearly. This is a close up of the holes. Be sure to de-burr the holes (inside & out), as I did. Now, you can start re-assembling the fork. Start with locking the dampener rod back in the lower fork leg, and start working backwards from where you started. You can order everything from www.racetech.com (And NO- I don't work for them) You will be adding the Goldvalve Emulators (1) $169. This is kind of a marvel of engineering (I think there may be some magic "pixie-dust" inside them too). You will get an "access code" for what Goldvalve/Emulator spring you should use, and how to set it up for the FZ-07 (all springs are included). The FZ-07 requires an "adapter" (2) with the Goldvalve Emulators (I think it's like $25?) I also highly recommend getting race tech springs (for your specific weight) $129. You will need about a liter of 10wt. fork oil as well. I'm not going to go into all the details of reassembly. The Racetech instructions do a great job with that. I just wanted to show people what the internals look like, and if it's something someone would be comfortable doing. Racetech is a GREAT company to deal with if you have any issues with the install. I hope this helps some people out I've done this on my last three bikes, and have NEVER been disappointed. For about $300, it will virtually ELIMINATE the front end dive when braking, and make everything work better in the front-end.
  33. 7 points
  34. 7 points
    Totaled my bike in an accident and bought a new fz07 last week and let me say I love it, threw an exhaust and fender eliminator on so far
  35. 7 points
    Typical spring time go-through. Brake fluid flush, check steering bearings and new fork oil. Ended up needing new tires, so did this all together. Sidenote, my last pair of tires were a S21 rear + Pilot Power 3 front. I loved those tires, but the PP#3is no more. So I just went with S21's front and rear and ...woah...what a fantastic handing pair of tires. Finally got around to riveting some anchor straps to the Corbin seat. So I can use my Knock Kreiga I made. Had some vinyl left over from another project. Bought some lashing and fittings from the local ski shop. Sewed the main part of the bag together, but decided to bolt all the straps and hardware on with Chicago screws. If a clip fails, or a strap frays, it will be easy to unscrew and replace- especially away form home. Got about $16 in this bag. Shown here holding two 1 gallon milk jugs. While it isn't invisible when not in use, it tucks away pretty nicely. It's vinyl, so it won't leak. I'll turn it inside out and coat the seams to make it fully waterproof. Need more black screws for the straps and may also powdercoat the hooks black to help them hide. It ain't no Kreiga, but it'll do!
  36. 7 points
    I'm fabricating a ram-air intake this winter. Here is the ram-air intake plenum. It bolts to the Hordpower velocity stack plate. More details to follow.
  37. 7 points
    In a thread earlier today the subject of torque wrenches came up and I figured I’d do a write up of basic information for those new to the subject. Disclaimer: I am by no means an expert on tools but I have been using mechanic’s tools since I was old enough to sit on the fender with my feet in the wheel wells helping my dad change spark plugs & oil on the family vehicles. I also spent a couple years back in the ‘80s learning motorcycle mechanics at the local Vo-Tech school as well as working for a time in a local motorcycle shop. If you notice any missing, incomplete or incorrect information below please let me know and I’ll update accordingly. Torque wrench 101 This will cover the selection, care, use & feeding of torque wrenches. Purpose of a torque wrench: The purpose of a torque wrench is to ensure that fasteners are tightened to a proper level to help ensure that they will hold securely and not vibrate loose. They also ensuring that fasteners are not too tight to prevent damage to mating surfaces or strip threads from over tightening. Selecting the proper Torque Wrench: Torque wrenches come in many sizes, shapes, styles, price and torque ranges. There are 3 main types of torque wrench styles, beam, click, and digital. There are pros and cons of all three styles. I’ll try to cover the basics of each below: Defection/Beam Style: This style is normally the more economical and uses a mechanical pointer to indicate the amount of torque being applied that is read on a plate with a predetermined set of marks that needs to be read while applying pressure to the fastener. Variants can use a dial gauge instead of a pointer arm. Pros: This style is normally more economical at least for the basic beam style. The ones with dials are normally more expensive. Simplest design. Fewer things that can go wrong. No batteries required Cons: Requires more room to use due to the amount of space needed for the tool itself as well needing to view gauge while using. Not for low light situations due to requirement to view gauge while using. Harder to be accurate due to viewing needing to be at the correct angle. Non-ratcheting meaning slower to use in most cases due to having to reposition the wrench as you tighten. Click Style: A Click style torque wrench uses a preset of the wanted torque limit that gives an audible and physically felt “click” when the dialed-up limit is reached. Most come with both ft-lbs & Nm indicators. Most come in a shape very much like thick handled ratchet. The requested torque value is set by twisting the lockable handle to either raise or lower the setting. Alternately There are click style torque screwdrivers shaped more like a ratcheting screwdriver but still function the same as the ratchet style. They are normally used for quite small torque values. I have one that measures from 10-50 In-lbs. These are used for screws more often than bolts. They are popular in hobbies requiring smaller torque values such as in gunsmithing. Pros: Generally more accurate than a beam style since a specific torque value can be set. More compact allowing it to get into tighter locations. Easier low/no light settings use. No batteries required. Ratcheting action speeds repositioning unlike the beam style. Physically felt “break/click” when set torque value is reached so works well in a loud environment. Cons: More mechanically complex than a beam style making it somewhat less durable than a beam style. Requires infrequent recalibration by professionals for best long-term accuracy which will cost money and loss of use of the tool while waiting for the recalibration to be completed. That said, for home use a click style torque wrench can go many years between recalibrations depending on the amount of use it gets. Generally more expensive than a comparable beam style. Digital Style: Alternatively there are cube shaped Digital torque adapters that can be used on your existing ratchet/breaker bar if so desired. A digital style torque wrench works in a similar fashion and has the same general physical layout as the Click style. The requested torque value and scale used is set on an LCD screen via buttons. When the specified torque value is reached it will use an audible alert to let you know. They are generally more accurate and faster to set the torque value but are generally more expensive than either of the other styles. Older generations of digital torque wrenches were not always robust or as accurate as the digital torque wrenches of today. Pros: Ratcheting Function Quickly set preferred scale and torque value. Audible tone when set value is reached. Memory functions. Models available with backlit displays are easier to read making it good for low light environments. Can be generally recalibrated at home following instructions included with the wrench. Cons: No felt break when the preset value is reached like a “click” style so not as useful in a noisy environment. Requires batteries. Generally, more expensive than click and beam styles but getting more economical as time passes. Common to all styles: All styles come in a wide array of price points. In general you get what you pay for. A quality torque wrench should last you a lifetime and hold its accuracy longer. So, consider spending a little more if you can. A higher price will generally get you finer teeth on the ratchet mechanisms, and more robust internals that will be more accurate and hold calibration longer as well as smoother operation in general when setting the torque value. The extreme ends of a wrench’s stated working range is where a wrench will be the least accurate. So choose one where the most frequently needed torque values are more towards the center of the working range for maximum accuracy. As an example, I have three torque wrenches that have the following ranges to handle my needs: A 1/4in hex drive click style torque bit driver with a range of 10-50in-lbs (0-6Nm) A 3/8in drive click style with a range of 5-75ft-lbs (7-101Nm) A 1/2in drive click style with a range of 20-150ft-lbs (27-203Nm) General usage information: Note that the actual amount of torque applied, for a given setting, will vary depending on whether the threads are lubricated or dry. If using a vehicle manual’s specified torque setting note whether the torque value is for a wet or dry fastener. Never use a torque wrench to loosen a fastener. That’s the job of your standard ratchet/wrench/breaker bar. The torque wrenches with reversible ratchets are for tightening fasteners with reverse threads. Using a torque wrench to loosen a fastener adds unwarranted stress, wear and tear. Always remember that the torque wrench is a precision tool. Handle it with care. Store it in the case it came with when applicable. Protect it from the elements. General guidelines to torque wrench use: Basic steps for use: 1) After selecting a torque wrench of the required range, either note on the beam scale or dial in/ adjust to the correct torque setting needed following the tool manual’s instructions. 2) Choose the proper sized socket for the fastener. Preferably use a six-side socket instead of a twelve-sided socket to lessen the likelihood of rounding the corners of the bolt/nut under high torque settings. If an extension is needed use the shortest one that will do the job. This will lessen the likelihood of the socket slipping off the bolt/nut. 3) Use one hand to stabilize the head of the wrench while using the other hand to apply slow steady pressure to the handle of the wrench until the requested torque value is reached. 4) Release the pressure applied to the wrench. And then repeat step 3 above. This step is optional. There is never-ending debate on the usefulness of it. 5) In the case of a Click style torque wrench, dial the torque value back down to its lowest setting after use to remove strain from the internal mechanisms. This will prepare the wrench for storage. If you're still reading, Thanks for taking the time. It's appreciated. If you have any questions we'll try to help if we can. Again if you see anything that needs corrected, updated or added please don't be shy.
  38. 7 points
    So it you frequent the forums you're probably familiar with my story. I was worried the 07 may be to slow and that an 09 was the bike for me, I'm here to tell ya that's not the case. After getting my yoshi pipe and ECU flash I can go 0 to 110 in a flash. I live in IE so avg fwy speed is 90 (which means I pass at 100 if have to) , after the work I've done I can get there without losing any torque. Yeah that's right she pulls hard to 100+ =). Perfect bike for me, honestly if it was any faster I'd probably be dead. Proud MT 07 owner. Hope all is well fellas, and ladies if we have any.
  39. 7 points
    The 07 is perfect for what they intended it as. I'd actually argue it's TOO good for the money and people expect too much out of it because of that. The rest of The bike is held to the same standard as the engine, and that's just not fair to it. That engine punches so far out of it's weight class it makes the other aspects of the bike seem cheaper than they are. Yamaha had to cut pennies somewhere and I don't think this bike would compete well at a higher price point.
  40. 7 points
    Installed this beauty (Akrapovic Titanium Racing exhaust)
  41. 7 points


    I'm no longer tracking the bank's bike....
  42. 7 points
    Hey everyone! Name is Mark and I'm the owner of a brand-new 2018 model MT-07 in Yamaha Blue. Her name is "Bloo". So far I've done a few mods including tail light, fender eliminator, front signals, case saver, engine slider, frame sliders, fork sliders, and levers. I've also swapped to an OEM 2017 R6 front rear sprocket (45t) and painted the "vents" black. Next up will more than likely be suspension and then exhaust, air filter, tuner. I work for TST Industries and look forward to providing info and also gaining knowledge. Much love from the sunshine state!
  43. 7 points
    Well I got some cool stuff shipped in but no time for a while to play with it The head, with fresh valve job and Web cams, Cams come with a word of caution right on the box, lol; Throttle bodies and boots bored for better flow, Head ported to breath deeper, Is it summer yet!?!?
  44. 7 points
    Currently installed Akrapovic Carbon Fiber Exhaust Flashed ECU Driven Rearsets Yoshimura Fender Eliminator Renthal Ultra Lows Currently Waiting Installment Hordpower Airbox HP ECU Flash Clipon adapter plates Brembo RSC Steel brake lines Gold Chain (not a fan of that red one) Ktech Cartridges Ktech Rear shock R6 throttle tube Seat Cowl Sticky Tires (Pirelli SC1s likely) Possible Future Upgrades Quickshifter MT07 bodywork custom headlights and upper fairing? Belly Pan
  45. 7 points
    Current modifications:Puig Touring Screen, pro-taper handlebars, Airage Competition exhaust, Radiator guard and grid, DNA airfilter, Puig tail tidy, Integrated helmet lights, side coolant bottle guard.
  46. 7 points
    First caveat - if you've only got 3 days at the track under your belt, don't be too hard on yourself. Body position is a bitch to develop. You think you're Rossi or Marquez hanging off the bike - then you see a pic and you look like the wicked witch riding her broomstick sitting straight up and down. Happens to everyone. A few things to supplement what others have said - this coming from a coach and racer. This past year I've spent a lot of time at the track as an example. NJMP, Summit Point, VIR, PittRace, Road Atlanta, Road America, Mid Ohio, NCBike, Jennings GP. I average over 50 days a year. These are just my suggestions - as well as YCRS techniques: 1) Lean angle is your enemy. Period. You use the minimum amount of lean angle required in order to negotiate a corner at a given speed. Body position is the means by which we reduce lean angle. Lean angle gives you less of a contact patch, scrubs tires, and increases risk. If you're not an Advanced/Expert rider and you don't have at least "some" "chicken strips" on your tires, I can absolutely guarantee you that you're using too much lean angle, and that at some point your enthusiasm is going to outrun your talent - and you'll be on the ground. By your pics, you are carrying FAR too much lean angle. Why do the fastest guys carry so much lean angle? Because at the speed they are running (which is light years faster than you) they've run out of anything else BESIDES lean angle. They've already maximized body position inputs. Think of it as trying to keep as much lean angle as possible in reserve. Use ONLY what is required. I could get into the whole "100 points of grip" thing but I'm trying to keep it simple. 2) The FZ/MT without aftermarket clip ons will be hard to get really aggressive body position on. It can be done, but it will more resemble a Motard because of the geometry. 3) The entire purpose of "getting off the bike" is to weight the inside peg of the bike. The more you weight that inside peg, the less lean angle the bike requires to navigate the same corner at the same speed. The only way to really weight that inside peg is to get your body off the seat and off the bike. The only way to do it "relaxed" allowing you to really control the bike is to not get crossed up, and to have your bike and your body parallel to each other. 4) In those corners, get your butt back, and relax your arms. BEND that INSIDE elbow. That allows your upper body to drop down and your body to stay parallel to the bike. Have your inside foot pointed toward the inside of the turn, and have the end of the peg right under the ball of your foot - then PUSH that inside peg down. Hold the inside grip like a screwdriver. Relax the outside arm, and let it just drop comfortably on the tank. 5) Don't forget your corner entry! Be smooth on the controls. Pick up your brakes and carry them lighter - but longer. Good body position won't help if you give up the brakes abruptly in the corner, allowing the front suspension to unload, shrinking your tire contact patch, and extending the geometry of the bike making it less easy to turn. As you progress, hopefully you'll start to extend trail braking to at or near the apex (depending on if it's an entry or exit corner). But that's for down the road.... 6) Your butt should almost never - ever - ever - be in the middle of the seat on most tracks. Example: When I exit the carousel (T17-19) at PittRace, I never move my ass back from the left side of the bike all the way down the straight so I'm prepared for entry to T1. The two most important things however are this. First of all, pick one or two things to work on every session. No more than that. If you blow a corner, etc, then your lap starts on the next corner. Don't let it detract from your efforts. Second? Ignore all the wannabe fast guys that talk about getting a knee down, or an elbow down, or worse yet - chicken strips. Focus on your lines, smooth inputs, and body position. Then when your knee hits the ground you'll be surprised. It's not a goal. The FZ/MT is a very capable machine on the track to run at Novice to Intermediate pace without modification. I'm 6'2" and have zero issues racing that chassis.
  47. 7 points
  48. 7 points
    So, I always thought the chain on this bike was noisy. Louder than any other bike I've owned or ridden. I've heard lots of other owners mention it, too. Recently I changed my front sprocket and found this unusual wear. Engine side: (ignore the metal dust- that's just debris from sitting behind a belt sander) Outer/ retaining nut side: Witness marks in the damper material also showing the chain running too tight against the inner face of the sprocket: I found the issue to be a distorted chain guard. I don't know how I never spotted this, but the chain guard was very distorted. You can see where the chain was trying to derail the guide rib and run straight. The guide rib pushing the chain this direction matches up with the damage. So I took a razor and cut the center rib off. The rest of the guard will last plenty long enough for me to find a replacement. Hopefully there a nice aftermarket solution. The material Yamaha uses is too rubbery to retain it's shape, apparently. The bottom leg of the guard has two push pins to keep it in place and aligned, but for some reason there's only one pin up top. Guard needs to be much more rigid for the distance it needs to span. Funny chain noise is gone. I bet my sprockets will last longer, too!
  49. 7 points
    Partially restored, its a labour of love and deep admiration. Massimo Tamburini designed one of just a handful of the most beautiful bikes ever made. he designed as well the MV Agusta F4 750 which hands down is the most erotic motorcycle ever made. Back to the sexy 916. A formidable beast demanding respect, the 916 ushered in from its little brother the 851 the superbike era. Arguably among the Ducati faithful some will argue the 851 was the first superbike, does it matter really? 23 years later, it still draws attention, its rumbling twin, clakity-clak of a dry clutch sounds like its about to loose its bottom end. But to those in the know, its purely a heavenly sound. The bike feels skinny, small, cramped yet top heavy and finicky in slow corners. At speed it is nimble, turns quick and accelerates rapidly with its close ration 6 speed. It takes effort to keep it directed in the flow of a corner, pushing aside that feel it wants to either fall over or upright itself. It is no fly by wire modern electronic driven motorcycle, this is a true motorcycle that affords no mistakes with your right wrist both lobes of the brain and body position. Certainly the 916 is designed to go fast, very fast and it demands that you not force yourself onto it, but instead allow the bike to naturally flow with the rhythm of its 90 degree V-Twin pulsating torque. Our motor is stock, we had plans to send it to Fast by Firrachi, that is still in the works, but more than likely not as FBF is no longer in business per say. Well That is it, a first look at the semi restored 916
  50. 7 points
    Couple pictures of me spanking my buddies GSXR1000 (until half track where he blasted past me at twice the speed)
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