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  1. 16 points
    Luckily, I got one of the very first ones in the country. The engine seems to have a lil more pop to it over the MT07, but probably due to it being geared lower. Suspension is fully adjustable and better than I thought it would be. Feels great on the road, offroad is a blast but have to take it kind of slow because the suspension bottoms out easily. Im gonna dd progressive springs and revalve forks and shock. Seat is comfortable. It's a great do it all bike so far.
  2. 14 points
    My aim was to find an affordable set of forks to slot in to our trees in the hopes for a quick, inexpensive fork upgrade that anyone could do with basic tools at home. Well, I think it worked out, but it's not quite as "bolt-on" as I hoped. It's still relatively simple to pull off at home. Here goes... The forks to use will be Honda 1995-98 Honda CBR600F3 forks. Has to be F3 forks. There were a few F2 forks in '94 that had cartridge internals, but I'm not positive they are the same as these. The internals will give you dual cartridges in each leg ( rebound and compression ), externally adjustable rebound clicker and externally adjustable preload. There is no external adjustment for compression. My first goal was to just use the F3 forks in our trees. F3 forks are also 41mm like ours. That would retain all factory geometry while also upgrading to larger, floating rotors. But it didn't work out. Fork spacing of our trees is too close together, so the stock F3 wheel would not fit back between them. The stock F3 wheel uses the same size tire and it's twisted 6 spoke pattern would be very close to a visual match. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 5 views. Moving on...let's see if we can just use our fork lowers on the F3 tubes and cartridges. The answer is, yes! Stock internals above, F3 bits below. A few thing to note here. 1- Springs are the same length(the picture is deceptive). Spacers are different lengths, but that's not important. We'll get back to this later. 2- F3 springs are progressively wound. 3- What anchors the forks together uses different size bolts. More on this directly below. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 0 views. Here is the final fastener that actually holds the forks together. Above is the damper rod from the stock forks, below is the compression cartridge from the F3 forks. The stock bolt is a 10mm , the F3 bolt is 8mm. If you've ever changed forks seals/bushings...these are those bolts in the bottom of the fork lower that want to fight you. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 1 views. Here's what it takes to do the swap. When you first disassemble the F3 forks this is what you will see at the bottom of the cartridge assembly. That threaded hole is where is the forks lower attaches. You need to remove that compression cartridge from the cartridge assembly. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 0 views. Just with your finger, push the cartridge in to the tube to reveal this circlip. Pop out that circlip. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 1 views. Thread the bolt back in as a handle and pop it out. Easy peasy. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 0 views. This is what needs to be modified. That aluminum piece is just a seat for the cartridge assembly. It sandwiches between the fork lower and the compression cartridge. Since the F3 bolt was 8mm it also needs to be opened up to accept the 10mm bolt needed for the stock fork lowers. The bottom of the cartridge needs to be drilled and tapped to accept the stock bolt as well. This is the only things that need to be modified. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 1 views. Before you do any work to the compression cartridge you need to fully disassemble it. You can not have ANY tiny amount of grit or debris in these components. We're talking surgical clean here. Try your best to not mar the outside of the valve. Use hardwood, sheets of copper, aluminum soft jaws on your vice....whatever it takes...but please avoid pipe wrenches, vise grips,etc. All you need to remove is the socket head ( allen head) screw that holds the valve assembly to the valve body. That bolt is threadlocked in place, so get a good grip on things, but you do not need to use an impact or anything crazy. Now you can drill & tap without damaging the valve assembly. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 1 views. You do NOT need a lathe to do this! I never turned the machine on, I just used the lathe to help me align the parts for tapping. I tapped the valve by hand. But note the slip of copper protecting the valve body from the jaws of the chuck. Something like that is all you need. The new thread needs to be tapped to M10-1.0. 10mm diameter with a 1.0 thread pitch. Your tap should tell you what size drill bit to use. If not, a 8.5mm drill bit is the industry standard to use for a M10-1.0 hole. 8.5mm lands right between 5/16" and 11/32". I used a sharp 11/32" drill bit with perfect results. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 1 views. Important! Do NOT drill all the way through the valve body. Only drill and tap as far as needed. You can see it clearly with all the parts in your hands, but remember that the other side of the valve body uses a smaller fastener to retain the valve assembly. You can see a small step at the base of the new M10-1.0 thread. That is where the smaller thread begins. New M10-1.0 thread. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 1 views. Smaller thread on other side of the valve. 5mm? 6mm? I can't remember... Imgur Post with 0 votes and 1 views. At this point, you are done modifying, all that's left to do is reassemble the forks as if they were bone stock F3 forks. You use the forks tubes, caps, internals and lower bushings from the F3 forks. The ONLY FZ07 parts you will use is the fork lowers, 10mm retaining bolts and upper fork bushing. The lower fork bushings from the F3 forks are interchangeable with your stock bushings, but they are actually properly sized! They are not the "too small" bushings Yamaha gave us. So, reuse the F3 lower bushings unless you already have properly fitting bushings that are in good, or better, shape than what is in your F3 donor forks. The upper F3 bushings are larger than our stock bushing, so be sure to reuse the stock upper bushing or you will bind the forks. Stock on the left, F3 on the right. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 0 views. Finally assembly notes: Honda and the internet will gine you lots of differing suggestions on what fork oil and oil level to use. The thing to remember is that our bikes are a good 40lbs lighter than the F3 donor bike these forks came from. I originally went with 10w oil at 116mm oil level. It was harsh. I am currently using Maxima 52 oil at 120mm oil level and am happy with how the forks feel. Also, I am 220lbs in my birthday suit. I do not know what the stock spring rate is for F3 forks, but they springs work for me. However, remember earlier when I mentioned the springs were the same length? If you are happy with your current spring rates, just reuse your stock springs. The diameters are the same, so you're good to go. This post is strictly to show what small modification need to be done to install our stock fork lowers on to F3 fork tubes, and what oil weight and level works good for our bikes.. I am purposefully not going in to detail on how to disassemble and reassemble these two different types of forks. There's tons of info on that already. Just disassemble both, drill/tap the valve body and reassemble. Ride impressions: There is no doubt you are riding on late 90's sport bike fork technology at this point. Low speed compression bumps are a tad harsh. Not bone-jarring, just a tad harsh. But everything else is fantastic. Compression and rebound characteristics are VERY good. My stock forks would often jar me at speed. EG, hitting bridge expansion joints at highway speeds. That no longer happens. If you riding on a rough road at city speed (25-35 mph) the forks will feel a tad harsh....kinda like riding a sport bike! But at speed?....oh, at speed...that harder you push the plusher they feel. Throw the bike back and forth between corners and she's solid. No wallow. No wiggle. Just a nicely dampened front suspension. Travel: If you look up the specs on wheel travel on our bikes VS the F3 forks you will think this will give up fork travel. It won't. Yamaha lied. The ONLY way you can get the full 5.1" inches of travel out of the stock forks is if you completely compress the topout springs. Never gonna happen. Wheel travel is the same. Now...here's the "bad" art of this deal. The fork tubes are 2.25" longer than stock. So, if you just want to do this to your bike and leave everything else stock you will be rocking some extra fork tube above the top yoke. Like me! Yeah, you might look like a total squid noob with a lowered bike at first glance, but who cares. However....this also give you some pretty nice options! Been wanting to raise your bike and inch or so? Gotcha covered. Want to run legit clipons without some bulky,expensive adapter that bolts to the floppy stock bar mounts? Gotcha covered there, too! A set of 41mm clipons ( very common size) could be slid in to place and made to work oh,so easily. So are the long tubes a blessing or a cosmetic con? depends on what you need out of your bike. And yes, I did check for travel with so much tube exposed. You will not crash the fork lowers in to the bottom yokes. The bottom edge of the blue masking tape represents the forks completely bottomed out. Plenty of clearance. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 1 views. So, stock fork lowers in order to retain your original wheel and brakes. But add fully cartridge internal, extra height is wanted and the ability to mount clipons. For 100 bucks. I paid $75 for my forks off Craigslist and wasted some oil figuring out what worked good. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 2 views.
  3. 13 points
    8/15/2020 NYST photos....
  4. 13 points
    Note: The following are opinions. It is not based on scientific research but on experience and observation. Before I retired I had the good fortune to work the Sturgis Rally for a number of years. Because of this I had the unique opportunity to observe hundreds of thousands of similarly dressed rugged individualists attempt to operate motorcycles. That experience taught me two things. First was that many of them were inept at handling motorcycles and a vast majority of those honestly thought they were 'above avg' to 'excellent' riders when in fact they could not make a simple feet-up U turn in the full width of a 2 lane road. In talking to them at crash scenes, tip overs, fender benders and assorted mishaps I was appalled by the realization that they refused to practice or to learn or to seek instruction, frequently telling me that they thought their skills are "good enough", when clearly they were not. Second was that their focus and attention was frequently within the cockpit of the motorcycle instead of down range where it should be. When presented with situations that required divided attention, like pulling off a busy roadway into a busy gas station, their attention would shrink to their hand controls and they might very well crash straight into the fuel pumps or a car or another biker oblivious to their presence. Riders pulling away from a stop into traffic would pause and stare at the throttle, brake and clutch levers or at the ground directly in front of their motorcycle because they were overwhelmed and commence their action often with disastrous results. On to the free part. It costs nothing to stop in an empty parking lot or out of the way spot by yourself or better yet with other riders to offer critical input and PRACTICE riding. Braking. Turning. Avoidance maneuvers. Working with your control interfaces to make their operation intrinsic. Basic motorcycle control to familiarize yourself with your machine and it's capabilities. Two up if you ever take a loved one with. You owe it to your passenger to be better than 'good enough'. Occasionally practicing for problem #1 has the added benefit of taking care of problem #2, letting you safely enjoy the ride. The rest of us thank you. I realize that most of us here or that will read this are statistically not those I speak of. My hope is that we lead by example and are seen routinely practicing. That we take a friend or neighbor or other riding companion to the parking lot and learn together because I know my skills will never be good enough. Ride safe.
  5. 11 points
    We had the opportunity through Darren James to work with Trevor up at Flexi-glass on new bodywork for the FZ07 and MT07. The quality of the kit is amazing. The tank is molded off the FZ07 stock tank and uses the stock mounting locations without the flex or need for additional bracing of other kits on the market. Utilizing the current ZX10R wind screen. Bodywork is 2.0”narrower to avoid dragging and clearanced to avoid the exhaust in the lower. The mounting kit will be built by Robem and available on the website. Flexi-glass is proudly made in Canada with premium products. Cost estimated $800 upper, lower, tail, tank cover and fender plus shipping.
  6. 10 points
    Pics from last weekends track day event hosted by TDW. I'm definitely getting more comfortable riding as a paraplegic and learning things every lap. I'm getting close to the edge of the rear tire so I think I'll need to add a rear link to jack the back end up. Bike worked flawlessly except in one session I had fuel leaking out the Vortex gas cap. I think I just didn't click it down completely because it didn't leak at all the second day.
  7. 10 points
    Finished up my 2020 modifications for this year’s track season, if it ever starts Only performance mod was the addition of the Akrapovic Ti exhaust. The sound is intoxicating. This is now paired with the Power Commander 5 (with a great tune) MWR Air Filter and lid, and Heal Tech Quick Shifter. This years main mod was the addition of a front fairing number plate and new colors. The number plate is from S2 Concepts, it for a FZ-09, I really liked the look. Quality is decent for a fiberglass part and it arrived quickly from France. I had to modify the mounting brackets or make it fit. Got a knock off rear seat cowl, was advertised as a used genuine Yamaha parts, it wasn’t. The seller was cool and sent me a refund when I pointed it out, so I wound up paying $25. Overall it wasn’t too bad quality wise. The only thing I didn’t like was the soft collapsible rubber strip. I made a foam insert for it and now it’s nice and firm. Also got some nice Woodcraft case savers to to replace my old RG ones. I decided to try Vinyl Wrapping for the first time. I’m happy with the results. I also got a vinyl cutter for Christmas, so I made the logos and numbers too. I was originally going to do a full FZ-07R glass kit but decided to go with the naked or semi faired look. pgeldz has had an influence on me Ed
  8. 10 points
    Even though this is a promo, I find it interesting as a roadracing fanatic I thought I'd share: I hope you enjoy it.
  9. 9 points
    Well a bizarre 2020 is fast coming to a close but that just means next season is just around the corner. I piled up the last 5 seasons assemblage of toys for it's new owner, arriving in the great white north from Birmingham on Sunday. (We had snow today) I spent a day freshening it up a bit for it's journey. Farewell old friend. And drug this home for something to do over the winter. One of its owners 2 RC-51's. This one was raced years ago and has sat idle and neglected in the back corner of the garage for 10 years. It will be put back on the road in street legal trim so it's owner and his son can ride them together on weekends. Aside from this and a few other short term projects you just never know what will roll outta the shop come spring
  10. 9 points
    I decided to use Tyga's silencers that are used on their VFR400 kit. The current plan is to mount one on each side just below the passenger pegs.
  11. 9 points
    So I started bothering the good people at 2 Wheel Dyno Works about a year ago with questions regarding exhaust and intake choices. I always received a quick response with the reasons they felt these were the best choices. There recommendations were; full Yoshimura exhaust with the Db killer installed, removing the snorkle on the stock airbox and using the stock air filter. I finally sent my ECU off last week with the request that they wouldn't disable the fuel cut; this is my first ECU flash and I thought it would eliminate engine braking. Some friends gave me guidence and told me I was wrong. I emailed them and asked that they change my order after I had shipped it, they did and I received my flashed ECU in less then a week. What a difference much smoother throttle response and little loss of engine braking. The real difference is in the power availability, pulls much stronger in the mid range and doesn't drop off at the top end. I had a chance to wring out 4th gear and it was still pulling strong when I hit the Rev Limiter at about 95 MPH. I have been riding for about 50 years and this was the best and least expensive (for the results) Mod I have ever done. To say I'm happy is an understatement. If I run into any problems I'll be sure to let you know, but I really don't expect any.
  12. 9 points
    95+% ready for the track. Just making final adjustments to the ProShift electronic gear shift system and waiting on my Hordpower airbox. Tentatively planning on doing the WERA event at Road Atlanta first weekend in October.
  13. 9 points
    So I picked this up from a buddy, (read confiscated, lol) to build another racebike for a friend who says to me, "can you replicate your bike but with any upgrades or changes you'd make after racing yours for 4 seasons?". Hmm, says I, let me look into this. A few texts and late nite calls to some track friends and vendors and we're off and running. Pulled the motor and head for shipment to Zoran at TWF Racing, Looks like another excellent starting point. Getting the head ported, Web cams, valve job, bored throttle bodies. Ordered all the bits n pieces to have a ball both in the shop building it and on the track enjoying it. $6,000 not counting suspension bits, machine work, shipping and cost of the bike. So, yeah it's not cheap but it'll be an affordable option to the full on MotoAmerica builds at double or more the cost. This bike, like mine, should be able to make the grid in any MotoAmerica Twins Cup event, and podium at any club racing event under the right rider. Got some fun and high tech things in the works from Matt at Robem Engineering and from Brandon at Trackside Labs to bookend the motor Zoran is helping with. Stay tuned for V2. Fun.
  14. 9 points
    Been having fun. this bike is very trail capable. Beat this thru the muddy trails at 6000 ft above Boise in the rain and it took everything I gave it and keep wanting to go faster. This was up in Stanley, Idaho at the trailhead
  15. 8 points
    The rest of my results... Even though I didn't get to compete in all the events I had hoped to, I did manage to get some good finishes. Overall class championship finishes with Central Roadracing Association Formula 40 F1 1st Lightweight SuperBike 2nd Lightweight Grand Prix 2nd Super Twins 3rd Overall CRA points 20th. Great results considering I did not run the final event with the CRA. I also attended the CCS round at Blackhawk Farms which was our 'away' event for the CRA, was also a CCS event that payed CRA points. Considering it was my first time at Blackhawk Farms, I was very happy with these results. 3rd in Formula 40 Lightweight 1st in Thunderbike 5th in Lightweight SuperBike 7th in Lightweight GrandPrix.
  16. 8 points
    My 5th trackday this season.
  17. 8 points
  18. 8 points
    So, the guy helping me with the adaptations just hasn't come through for me in a timely manner. I've been very patient but decided I just can't wait any longer. So, he delivered my bike in pieces to my house last weekend. He had taken it down to the frame because I wanted the frame, wheels and other bits powder coated gloss black. I started the build up on my own in a spare bedroom in my house last Monday. I've already almost got the bike assembled. Only things left are assembly of the wheels and installing the throttle bodies, wiring harness and electrics. I'll have it done within the next week. I've got a magnetic foot hold system (race tested) coming in from Finland this week, the Proshift electronic shifting is functional but the landing gear is not. If I have to use friends to catch and release me, I will because I want to be back on track this fall. Anyway, here are pics of my build up. Yea, I'm big time OCD and every single item is being spotlessly cleaned and any bearing or joint is being cleaned and freshly lubes.
  19. 8 points
    I picked up a leftover 2019 MT-07 with 0 miles otd price $7167. $5999 before taxes and all the other dealer fees and registration.
  20. 8 points
    Small update, cylinder head just about finished, intake cam back from being reground, hope to be able to be able to check valve to piston clearance soon and then get the head skimmed to increase compression a little. Adapted a car engine stand to take the MT07 engine to make working on it a little easier.
  21. 8 points
    We've been busier than a one legged man in an ass kicking contest but wanted to respond to Matt's post. I can't say enough about using these great forum vendors as resources instead of the cut rate cheesey hacks on eBay or Amazon to help with your projects. The level of support is second to none. I got daily texts and phone calls checking on progress, help problem solving, trouble shooting and technical advice that is simply non existent with the chinese/online/sell it cheaper crap dealers. These folks spend countless hours and dollars to develop and test their products, technique's and knowledge to give the rest of us what we seek. We, in turn, need to support them and not the peddlers of cheap knock offs and copies who forsake you as soon as your creditcard clears. I guarantee you'll never receive a phone call from China to trouble shoot your issue at 0530 trackside on a Sunday like from these guys! Blue Line Racing
  22. 8 points
    Well she's finally finished. Here is the final product. My wife did the vinyl wrap, and I think she knocked it out of the part. I picked the colors, but she did the design. If everything goes right, I should get a chance to test it out this weekend. I am so excited to ride this thing! Hopefully I'll have some actions shots for you guys.
  23. 8 points
    Well the Road America round is officially a 'Go' the end of this month and I've assembled a team of the finest pittards in the business. We'll run this round as a 2 bike team so I can get it adjusted to it's new owner and get the suspension dialed in. Our plan is to run nose to tail right to the front of the grid. What could possibly go wrong, right? The bike is done, The best thing that could happen now is he beats us on it while beating on it. I think we're in deep trouble. What I do know is that we're gonna have a GREAT time finding out! Sorry in advance to all the other competitors that will have their dreams shattered and go home wabbing, lol. BLR Edit: added a strobe,
  24. 8 points
    Aaron wheeled in on his R6 to turn wrenches this morning. Really nice to have a second pair of hands to do bodywork. This pic should give a good idea of the speeds I'm capable of generating, Got V2 put together, Fired it up, (make sure you plug your crank position sensor into the correct plug) Took both girls out for a run, She's a monster no doubt. Neighbors seemed a little unimpressed so we parked them after a few laps. The Leo Vince can on mine sounds crazy! I wasn't going to paint it but now I'm thinking I'll put tape lines on it and see if the body shop down the road will shoot me some cheap paint. Either something outrageous or plain white and the new owner can wrap it, paint it or whatever. Of course I'll have to swap motors yet when I get his done.
  25. 8 points
    TB's came in and these showed up, Custom valved K Tech DDS lite shock and 20IDS cartridges in re-built stock forks to stay with the budget(ish) build, This is gonna be bad ass fast n fun
  26. 8 points
    Quick report for my newest upgrade. I managed to score an Ohline STX46 (YA419) second hand which I've just used to replace my Bitubo XZE11 which I also bought second hand, and wanted to give a quick comparo for those considering either of these upgrades. For reference, I am 72kg / 160 pound without gear, and use the bike every day for commuting to and from work in the city. Once a fortnight I'll take the bike out into the hills for some spirited riding. I found the standard front end fairly harsh but OK, and the standard rear very harsh and lacking in rebound damping. Both would be sorted. Over here in Australia shocks pretty much never come up for sale for these bikes and when they do, they're gone in an hour so you have to be quick. Which is how I intially ended up with a Bitubo XZE11. It was the first shock in months that had appeared on the second hand market and so when it appeared for sale in one of the local groups, I grabbed it straight away. It had the "standard" 120 spring installed. I wasn't quite able to get the correct sag numbers as I suspect the 120 spring is still too high for my weight. I emailed Bitubo asking for the recommended weight range for the 120 spring and they never replied (great support there guys...). Either way, the improvements to ride quality were immediately felt and the bike was transformed. It wasn't much smoother than stock (harshness when hitting small bumps) but the rebound damping was substantionally better and vastly improved the bikes stablity while cornering. I found myself attacking the corners now rather than bouncing through them and it really made the bike so much more fun to ride. In saying that, I was hoping for a smoother ride as well, since my commute is riddled with bumps and manholes and dodgy bitumen joins everywhere so I still felt myself avoiding the known obstacles along the way. Very large dips in the road at higher speeds could also throw me up off the seat a bit but not like the standard shock did. I was really happy with the improvements so I went and installed some Cogent DDC's in the front. They've been great. Improved ride quality and performance overall, but then again the front was never "that" bad for me. However I felt that the front and rear weren't quite balanced with each other. Bumps that the front absorbed, the rear transferred sharply and where the front would move with the road surface, the rear resisted it a little more. The impression was that the rear end was set up to be more sporty than the front, and for my type of riding too sporty overall. I thought a spring change might help (something lighter than the 120) but I assumed that it would also be the compression damping. Since the shock cost me $500AUD, spending another $200 on a spring and then whatever it might cost to have it revalved would mean I could have just bought a brand new shock and specified it to my liking by the manufacturer, so I kept it as it was. Then an Ohlins STX46 popped up on the second hand market (the second used shock I'd seen in 6 months) for $100 more than the Bitubo, at $600AUD. I'd read that the Ohlins was more "street" focussed rather than track, where I suspect the Bitubo is more track focussed. The Ohlins also has a slightly lighter spring at 115. Knowing I could sell the Bitubo for what I bought it for I figured it was only an extra $100 and in the worst case I have a nicer coloured spring that's slightly lighter in weight. Well I can tell you the difference between the two is significant. The Ohlins is far smoother. Way smoother. It's exactly what I was hoping for when I first replaced the standard shock with the Bitubo. It eats up the sharp bumps even a little bit better than the front end now and has the same excellent level of control I got with the Bitubo but with a lot more compliance. The bike overall behaves much better as the front and rear really now work in unison and give the same response so it all feels much more balanced. The 115 spring might technically still be too heavy for my weight but I have no issues with at all and won't be changing it. I'm perfectly happy now and I will never replace the Ohlins. In summary. They're both great shocks and I don't have anything against the Bitubo, but it's definitely the more sporty of the two and would probably be great for much more aggresive riding and matched up with a set of cartridges. But for general street riding and daily commuting with some sporty riding on the weekends, the Ohlins with DDC's has me 100% satisfied so my suspension quest is over.
  27. 8 points
    So the SV650 subframe is completed should be starting the FZ-07 subframe next week. Here is a couple photos of the project so far just so people can stay interested.
  28. 8 points
    Ha, I restored dozens of older bikes over the years as a hobby and absolutely loved it. It was so fun to waste a sunny summer weekend hooning around on random old stuff, running from Dairy Queen to brat feed to swap meet! And I actually miss changing fouled spark plugs on the roadside or calling my wife to bring the truck and pick my dumb ass up. The wife, who rides, didnt share my love of the vintage stuff. My problem was racing started to consume all my time, all my money and all my sanity, lol. It got to the point I simply had too many carbs to keep clean, too many old gas tanks to keep rust free, too many tubed tires leaking air and weather checking too continue. Luckily, my wife developed a love of the track and now track works at several racetracks and cant get enough of our shared passion. I gave up the restoration stuff and sold out. Now I'm throttling back my racing and find that helping out around the paddock is its own reward and we truly enjoy the people, smells, sounds and sights of the track. It's our lake home.
  29. 8 points
    I've been fiddling around with bodywork today, nothing serious, just trying to get the lines right. Tank is a MV brutale which works fine with the throttle bodies and gives me plenty of room for the airbox. Tail is CBR but I'll probably make something up that suits it better. I've got a RCS and some M50 brembos ready to go on and next week I'm going to strip the loom and have a go at making a race loom.
  30. 8 points
    We have wheels! I'm well pleased with this. The wheels are only loosely bolted on so that I can move the bike around but I love the stance and proportions. Hopefully things will move on fairly quickly now. The race engine build is pretty much there, just waiting on the cams. Slipper clutch has arrived and some fresh gaskets.
  31. 8 points
    Top of the morning! Its a dreary Saturday here in VA so I figured it'd be good start to delve into the early stages of this build. Obviously, the first step was to strip the bike down to nothing more than a rolling chassis with the motor still in place. The hardest part of that undertaking was the damn OEM airbox... Once it was stripped, it was time to take a good look at the subframe and OEM brackets scattered all over the frame (all of it had to go). I wanted the seat line to be as parallel to the ground as possible, kinda like the Jigsaw Customs XSR700 tracker build But trying to work around the curved subframe with the end goal of having a seat line parallel to the ground seemed too much of a problem to be worth the effort: So I bought some .065" wall 3/4" carbon steel tubing for my upcoming version of the subframe. I had to hack a bunch of the OEM stuff off first though before I could get off to a good start... Once the upper rails of the subframe and a good portion of the OEM brackets were gone, I took a few measurements, coped the 3/4" tubing, and got to welding. I went ahead and buffed down the passenger footpeg bosses, welded the holes up, and then blended them nicely into the frame as well: To satisfy any curiosity, if you've noticed the red tie-down straps, they were used in leveling off the bike side to side along with measurements from two equal points on the frame to the top triple clamp, so I could get the bike to stand as square as possible, which in turn would translate over to the new subframe top rails being as square as possible. It just required two holes to be drilled (one into my workbench frame, and one into a wall stud of my shed), two ratchet straps, a torpedo level, and a keen eye. Here's a better look at my home-made leveling rig Once I got all that squared away (no pun intended), I finished removing what was left of the sock subframe, and added a new cross member of the same 3/4" tubing mentioned earlier: Not being satisfied with the OEM crossmember of the subframe directly above the rear shock and still showing the passenger footpeg bosses on the INSIDE lower portion of the subframe, I decided to clean up that area as well. After removing the OEM crossmember, i left the 2 lower bosses and welded a 1/4" piece of round stock between the two for a cleaner and more simple looking crossmember: Once that was all said 'n done, the FZ had a nicer, clean looking subframe: After I knocked out a good portion of the subframe modification, that allowed me to start preparing for the seat pan/tail section. I sourced a huge sheet of .090" thick 5052 aluminum for the seat/tail section from a local metal supplier/machine shop. Luckily I've known the owners for a good while, so material costs have been pretty minimal so far. The first order of the seat pan/tail was to figure out the proper length and width dimensions. Width-wise the seat pan doesn't exceed the subframe rails which reach 7 1/2" at their widest point just before reaching the rear crossmember, with a very slight taper traveling towards the front of the bike. I kept the seat pan square because the taper is so minimal it wouldn't have been worth the effort in trying to mirror the taper angle on the seat pan. Once I had a 7 1/2"x28" sheet of 5052 cut, I marked 7 1/2" inwards from the rear edge, and made a slight scribe using a grinder and cutting wheel, and made the first bend with my 18" Harbor Freight manual press brake (if you don't scribe the material you're using, even if its really thin stuff, that brake doesn't do much bending). Luckily, the upwards angle of the tail's bottom was pretty spot on with what I had wanted, so that's all it took: With the base of the tail/seat pan up 'n running, next on the list is getting the shape of the tail roughed in. For the most part I just had an idea in my head, and just started cutting and bending material until I got the shapes I was happy with. Surprisingly, the lower side pieces I bent for the tail started out as just a piece of scrap that I originally just wanted to practice bending using the brake. Unbeknownst to me had I had coincidentally bent the scrap piece to go with the tail perfectly. After realizing this, I reverse-engineered the scrap piece, used it as a template, marked where the bends were, and voila had the lower portion of the tail fabbed up by luck! Once I had those members made, I cut and shaped the middle portion of the tail and tacked it in place: After that it was pretty much just cutting and shaping off of the top of my head, making sure left and right pieces mirrored each other and everything was equal when measuring from the center on outwards: After the tail was pretty much assembled and welded, I had a bunch of welds to buff and blend in. And where I wanted a nice contour on the tail I had to add a decent amount of metal so there was enough material to work with without removing much, if any of the base material. Also, when welding 5xxx series of aluminum I use 5356 filler rod (you can use 4043 filler rod as well, I just prefer 5356) and 100% UHP argon for the shielding gas: The process involved using a cutting wheel, various grit levels of flapper discs, and you guess it, a Harbor Freight hand sander to achieve smooth transitions of all the faces on the tail: And here's the Marco Simoncelli CB1100 TR tribute bike where I got a lot of influence for the tail and the idea for the lip on the rear of the tail (probably one of the best looking bikes I've ever laid eyes on): Anyways theres more for another day! Hope you guys enjoy. Feel free if you have any questions! Austin
  32. 8 points
    Ok ok, here ya go...this better?
  33. 8 points
    Business is good and we keep taking more and more orders for parts and helping with some really neat projects with people. Here’s the catch... at this moment we have a couple big projects to build for the coming MotoAmerica series that will need significant attention in the form of complete MA twins bikes For a couple weeks I’m going to have to turn down any custom work or building any items for customer that are currently of stock until after we complete the bikes for customers. I won’t be taking deposits for parts I can’t ship in a timely manner unless you want to arrange to it by email through the website. This is just a note for the community, we want to provide not only nice custom parts but a great experience as well. As many of you know I do this mostly for the love of the sport and it’s definitely not what pays my bills. Thanks for your understanding.
  34. 7 points
    When I purchased the XSR 700 this past spring, I said it would remain mostly stock. Well, 3500 mile later and three trips to the local drag strip, I have plans for a street/strip XSR700 build. On the list so far is a custom extended swingarm, custom 2 into 2 exhaust, Power Commander V with Auto Tune, shift light, and Hord Power intake. I'm running low 13's and high 12's in the 1/4 mile. I still need to launch better and I can not see the tach to know when to shift. I'm learning to clutchless upshift. I was surprised to find the front will lift in 2nd gear in stock trim. While I bracket raced cars when I was younger, bracket racing bikes is new to me.
  35. 7 points
    SO I have not been on the forum in quite a while, working full time, doing track side support, running another business yada yada yada. thought i'd pop on for a bit and update a couple posts. The Silver Bullet did me good this year, didn't get the motor built but I did manage a fairly good season. AND I partnered with Dave at BlueLine Racing for the INDY round of Moto America. We used his bike with my body work, and put together an awesome weekend, for the most part, Practice friday morning was cool and wet and I fell down... dammit. Friday afternoon I managed P14 in Q1, Saturday morning another damp cool session in Q2 and did not better my time, ended up P17 on the grid. got a good start and battled around top 15 the entire race, ending up P14. Not bad for a 52 yo that hasn't raced at the national level in over 15 years. Now I just need to get my budget together for 21, wife and I want to go race more Moto America events!
  36. 7 points
    That's a little more like it... We had a bit of a hill to climb, and fast, from P1 crash but Brett made steady progress up the ladder. We ended up 14th and in fast company but I think we have another second or two of treachery left for Q2 and the race.
  37. 7 points
    Race day last Saturday was about as perfect as it could have been. Bike ran perfect. My adaptions worked perfect. I started from pit lane so I would be at the very back and run my own pace to feel out the bike and learn new techniques riding as a paraplegic. More to come in the future.
  38. 7 points
    Dyno results are with stock internals and 6lb of boost
  39. 7 points
    When did the term trail braking come in to vogue? Why is everyone so crazy about talking about it. You're jerky as a new rider, but as you get comfortable you become smooth and you feel what the bike likes. Extremely few bikes extend the rear shock under throttle. I don't agree with feeding throttle while trying to drag the front brake. All you're doing is crowding the bike and bunching the suspension up. The very basic theories of putting weight on the front tire by using the front brake, and putting weight in to the rear tire by applying throttle can be observed in a straight line easily. It's intuitive simply due to weight transfer. You cannot transfer the weight of the motorcycle both forward and rearward at the same time. You just can't. Instead of trying to (magically?) transfer weight on to both ends of the bike simultaneously through front brake +throttle, you're far better off using the gyroscopic forces at your disposal. If you apply enough front brake to load the front suspension your rear end will be light. Don't force feed power to the rear wheel in this scenario. You're asking to lose the rear. Everyone knows this that has ever accidentally taken a corner too hot or yanked the throttle too hard mid turn ( especially mid turn under braking)...yet he's teaching to load the rear tire with throttle while loading the forks through braking? I can't agree with that. Throttle is for acceleration. Brakes are for deceleration. The bike as a whole can't do both at the same time. Never pull the clutch in during a corner. Keep the engine rpms at a constant speed and the gyroscopic forces will not change. This will make a bike feel stable while cornering. If you're coming in to a corner hard you can kick down a gear for extra revs/ gyroscopic forces to change how lean in feels. Gyroscopic forces want to keep the bike upright. More forces makes you have to tip in harder ( more bar pressure while counter steering) which gives the tire a very planted feel. You're leveraging the weight of the bike against the gyroscopic forces, and this creates a hinge effect. The gyroscopic forces from the engine are central to the bike, the bars are on the top, the tires are on the bottom. The harder you can push on the bars the harder that leverage can work through that hinge to plant the tires. This is why engine braking is useful to a point, but can be overwhelming in some chassis's. This is why slipper clutches were invented, but also why they kinda suck. Weight and gyroscopic forces are WAY more stable, reliable forces than your right hand solely attempting to brake and throttle at the same time. Braking wants to pull your hand forward while you need to roll your hand backwards to apply more throttle. Add countersteering pressure, moving body position ( wrist angle) and the fact that your body may be moving up and down from hitting bumps while this is happening....that's an enormous amount of dexterity to ask of a heavily gloved hand wrapped around a floating, squishy grip. No, "trail braking" while adding throttle is not how you safely corner a bike. Go find a long corner. At least 180°. Ride that corner over and over and over at a very relaxed, effortless pace. Do it until you can robotically glide through that corner with your brain completely not having to concentrate on anything. Now, pull the clutch in mid corner and see how gross it feels and watch how the bike reacts. Now, do that same corner again and lightly apply rear brake. Feel how the bike will turn tighter and the chassis won't upset. Now, do that same corner and apply only front brake. Feel how the front was to dip and the bike suddenly feels wallowy, due to the steering engine changing mid turn. The fact that he quipped at the beginning of the video " who here has used the rear brake in a corner and has lived to tell about it".....ugh.... internet, stop making stuff up! The rear brake is a very effective tool for tightening your line! It's much safer than using the front brake and upsetting the balance of the chassis! But the key is none of these inputs can be done abruptly. The key to smooth cornering is smoothness. The key to smoothness is doing nothing. You can't add several inputs to a bike at once, especially opposing inputs, and expect smoothness. Smoothly roll off power when approaching a turn, smoothly apply front brake if needed to settle the chassis ( not always needed!), smoothly apply rear brake if needing to tighten your line, smoothly release the brakes while smoothly rolling back on the power. You do this while smoothly adding and releasing steering pressure. Start slow, feels the bike react through your bars, listen to the engine, do it again - but smoother. Then do it again and again and again. Next thing you know you will be absolutely flying through that corner with complete control and total faith. But if your try to force feed several inputs at once - forget it. Braking inputs mid corner are slight corrections made necessary by road imperfections or rider error. It's not how you should be intentionally planning to attack every turn. Sorry for the rant. The YouTube Professors with no accountability annoy me to no end. Ride safe, y'all! I'm going back under my rock
  40. 7 points
    Life got in the way a wee bit but great progress the past two days. It's all together from an OEM parts standpoint. Bike is still in the house so no gas tank is on it but I turned the ignition on and hit the starter and no strange noises, smells or odd things so I believe I'm good to go. I'm currently in the process of hooking up the ProShift electronic shifting. Once that is done, I can ride it again.
  41. 7 points
  42. 7 points
    Boring around the shop waiting on package delivery so I decided to clean up a little. Thought I'd use up some scrap and pay back some favors, No Band-Aids yet, Tenracing has been good to me so, Viola, V2 engine stand nearing completion. Had a great day bench racing with folks from all over the world while I worked. Brett's new toy. Haha, forgot all about what I was supposed to be doing. Oh well, there's always tomorrow.
  43. 7 points
    MotoAmerica TwinsCup Road America Round 2 Race Report Round number 2 seemed promising having already turned laps with the previous two-race weekend last month and set up notes still fresh in our minds. Darren James once again was incapacitated for travel with the border travel restrictions we would have to make due once again with a full Suzuki effort. The bikes had recently spent some time on the dyno and were looking healthy for round #2 in the land of cheese and brats. Velocity Calibrations had freshly serviced the forks for both Jackson and Toby after the first round with Toby wanting to make some adjustments we couldn’t accommodate during round one. First Practice saw pace much slower than previous race pace as to be expected with the cooler weather at 09:10 around the 4-mile course but in line with the pace of other riders on course, time for lunch. With looming rain and weather looking clear the rest of the weekend we mounted rain tires while debating the merit of Q1 being able to provide any transferable data to Q2 or the race. The consensus was to put the warmers on the slicks and come in partway through Q1 if rain approached vs burning tire stickers and leaving us to run a scrub in either Q2 or the race with only 3 tire stickers left for the weekend. Q1 saw the riders increasing lap times versus the morning practice, with few riders improving much if at all. With environmental conditions deteriorating we retired to Parc fermé hoping drier conditions would allow the riders to push times in tomorrow’s Q2. Q2 was hotter with the pace being pushed quicker and quicker with Kaleb and Rocco leading a charge during the session. When the dust had settled the riders had put in a respectable effort qualifying with Jackson Blackmon on the front row in #3 position, Toby Khamsouk on row three in #7 position and the Doctor himself Carl Price on row five in the #14 position for the 10:20 race on Sunday. Race time on Sunday for the twins was the first race of the day. Prepared for a scorching pace based on the flier put in by Rocco in qualifying the riders took to the grid with eight laps to contest in the Wisconsin sun. All riders got away with a clean start with Jackson slotting into 3rd and Toby in 5th going into turn 1 at the start of the race. Jackson had a misstep halfway through the race that left him on the sideline and eventually in the pits with the rest of the team to watch the remainder of the race with the team to cheer on Toby and Carl. Toby in the mix with 5 riders vying for the final position on the podium with 4 riders driving to the finish out of the last turn with Toby crossing in 6th position. Carl not to be outdone by his younger teammates bested his personal best by almost 2 seconds completed the race in the 12th position. Congratulations to all the twinscup competitors and we will be back on the bikes in the Georgia heat at the end of July before you know it.
  44. 7 points
    So we're in the game with both bikes at Road America. After P1 and Q1 today Shawn sits in 9th, Tony in 12th, not bad. Tomorrow is Q2 and we'll have to dig deep to defend or move up on the grid. We're right in the middle of @Spatt 's crew of 3 filthy fast Suzuki's. Best racing story ever happens near the end of Q1. Shawn is working hard to gain a spot or two on an iffy track and low sides outta T3 in front of a big cheering crowd. He pops up but the controls are damaged so can't continue and takes a bow for the appreciative fans. While Shawn is waiting for the crash truck to pick him up a guy and his wife ask for a photo to which he dutifully obliges. Helmet off, best pro pose, big smile, arm around the gentleman's wife and while her husband snaps the pic she says to him, "Why not grab the titties, you earned it". The whole crowd roars as the husband throws Shawn an ice cold PBR for his effort. Gotta luv racing.
  45. 7 points
    Haven't been in here in awhile mainly because everything got put on hold pretty much due to life changes with the guy helping me with the adaptions. Anyway, progress is finally moving forward again. All designs are pretty much done (we think). Bike has been torn apart and I just recently got the frame and wheels back from powder coat. I went gloss black on the frame and wheels. Bodywork will be a reverse Yamaha speed block design with the main color being red, black speed blocks, white number areas and lower part of belly pan will be white too. So, hopefully I'll be back on the track this fall. I doubt I'll get out in the summer months because the heat can be too much for my system to handle at times. That's part of having a spinal cord injury, we don't sweat below our injury level making it hard to keep cool.
  46. 7 points
    With most states issues "Shelter In Place" or "Stay Home" orders, we know times are tough and that people are going to have a lot of free time on their hands. Because of that, we are officially announcing reduced pricing on ALL of our Mail-In ECU Flashing services starting NOW! Just like all of these new orders, we're leaving this sale pretty much open ended. Almost all of our ECU Flashing services will be only $249.99, with free return shipping anywhere in the USA, through April, BUT we will extend it if neccessary! That's $100 OFF our full retail price . USE THE COUPON CODE "covid19" during checkout at 2wheeldynoworks.com to take advantage of the largest discount we have EVER offered. We know that many riders are going to be doing a lot of their "isolating" on their bikes and taking advantage of the empty roads and a complete lack of traffic . We want to make sure that your bike is unrestricted, and as perfectly dialed in as possible, so you can maximize the enjoy of your throttle therapy during this crazy time! We are maintaining our commitment to flash and return ship ECUs the SAME DAY that we receive them. Our shop is STILL OPEN and fully operational, and we are always happy to help however we can. Please don't hesitate to reach out to us via email, phone or text if you have any questions!
  47. 7 points
    You could probably tell there were some slight frame modifications in an earlier post I made, so im going to go over them in this post! The stock frame is quite ugly, so I went ahead and cleaned it up a bit. I removed the gussets which were used for mounting some of the body work. in doing so, I realized that portion of the frame underneath the former gusset wasn't welded solid, so I took the time to weld that point of the frame solid all the way around the joint, and blend the weld in: I also cleaned up the gusset on the backbone of the frame: Next up was creating a different fastening point for the fuel tank. as you can kinda see in the above photo where the ratchet straps are, the OEM fuel tank has 2 tabs that go on both sides of that spacer which allows for the use of a bolt and nut/washer combo to secure the front of the tank to the frame. That wasn't gonna cut it for me and my plans for the fuel tank, so I got rid of that mess and fabbed up my own mounts: I threaded the mounting holes with a 1/4 x 20 tap: After the new mounts were tacked, I welded them solid all the way around and then reinforced the portion that was left of the stock fuel tank mount: Next up is the fuel tank! Austin
  48. 7 points
    Almost 1 year ago we built our first subframe for the FZ07. I never really like the way it worked and the plugs that went into the tubes. I know others have since made other solutions that I found equally difficult or more so to install or service. The original design was 3 pieces allowing to replace any item that bent separately and also allow the subframe to be installed without each part being in tension. I still never really loved the design and only built a few. Move forward a year. Going to try and add plugs to weld to the frame and allow the entire piece to be removed as one unit. So far I've machined the aluminum part for the subframe side and working on the steel slugs with matching interlocks. We will test it on our SV's first but I think I can pass it along also to the FZ riders if all goes as planned.
  49. 7 points
  50. 7 points
    Here is a photo I took in of Area 51. I think I can just make out @pgeldz's bike starting a speed run up the runway .
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