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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/26/2020 in all areas

  1. 7 points
    TB's came in and these showed up, Custom valved K Tech DDS lite shock and 20IDS cartridges in re-built stock forks to stay with the budget(ish) build, This is gonna be bad ass fast n fun
  2. 7 points
    With most states issues "Shelter In Place" or "Stay Home" orders, we know times are tough and that people are going to have a lot of free time on their hands. Because of that, we are officially announcing reduced pricing on ALL of our Mail-In ECU Flashing services starting NOW! Just like all of these new orders, we're leaving this sale pretty much open ended. Almost all of our ECU Flashing services will be only $249.99, with free return shipping anywhere in the USA, through April, BUT we will extend it if neccessary! That's $100 OFF our full retail price . USE THE COUPON CODE "covid19" during checkout at 2wheeldynoworks.com to take advantage of the largest discount we have EVER offered. We know that many riders are going to be doing a lot of their "isolating" on their bikes and taking advantage of the empty roads and a complete lack of traffic . We want to make sure that your bike is unrestricted, and as perfectly dialed in as possible, so you can maximize the enjoy of your throttle therapy during this crazy time! We are maintaining our commitment to flash and return ship ECUs the SAME DAY that we receive them. Our shop is STILL OPEN and fully operational, and we are always happy to help however we can. Please don't hesitate to reach out to us via email, phone or text if you have any questions!
  3. 4 points
    This is what I used: https://axiaalloys.com/product/shock-reservoir-mounting-bracket/
  4. 4 points
    I fabricated a new reservoir mount from 3/16" thick 6061 aluminum. The one from Nitron was 3/32" steel. Being thin, the reservoir vibrated a good amount to the point where the paint on the bracket was cracking. Mine is no heavier if not lighter than stock. Never bothered to weigh, but you could feel a slight difference.
  5. 4 points
    It was for the best... The divorce is final and I'm moving forward.
  6. 4 points
    Got the subframe welded on the bike today. Trying to see how I can offer these at a lower cost than fitting the coped smaller tubes and made some plates to dimple die. As well as modified the battery box/ undertray. Basically just clipping the sides off. The cross bar is located so it fits into a radius if the plastic. No drama or butchery needed. working on new brackets to mount the relays under the regulator and rectifier.
  7. 3 points
    Fa getta boutit. Have a friend help you and run that rear wheel in the air with some load on it from the back brake. It'll take a little coordination but get get it up off idle, 2nd gear - maybe 15 mph. Now get down there and watch the business. Much of that chain noise and snatchety crap will disappear. I doubt you'd be able to notice that kind of run out but if you do and it bothers you, you can sure put a chain on it if you want but unless there's something else going on there you'd be hard pressed to convince me you needed a chain let alone sprockets. You wanna double your money? Fold it in half and put it back in your wallet. $.02
  8. 3 points
  9. 3 points
    For years (decades) I have had problems with tingling/numbness in my hands whether it was on motorcycle or bicycle (I use to ride bicycles a lot). I would usually get it early in the ride, and eventually it would subside although sometimes a lot of arm/hand shaking was needed. I never thought of that as being from carpal tunnel. It has only been the last couple years that I thought I seriously might have a problem with carpal tunnel. So I got the operation on both hands, and the last two days was the most riding I have done since the operation. I had absolutely ZERO tingling/numbness in my hands. It was awesome to say the least. Previously I had it EVERY time I rode. So let me do a plug for the carpal tunnel surgery. If you think you might have a problem, get it checked out. There are a couple of simple tests to determine if, and how bad you may have it. If it were just for the riding aspect, I don't know if I would have had surgery, but it caused me other problems too. The surgery fixing the tingling/numbness from bikes was just an unexpected perk!
  10. 3 points
  11. 3 points
    Thanks guys! I'll stick it right next to the header pipe! Lol
  12. 3 points
    Took some time to redesign the rearset risers for the FZ. Did some scans and oriented the scans to reference the top rail of the frame where I cut off the subframe to 2* referencing horizontal so I could make sure the adjustments were truly up and back in relation to the installed. Im sure you could do it with a bob or something else but I just used the tools I have available and scanned the mounts, the stock plates and used it to reference and rebuild the risers designs. 3d printed some of the plates and installed to confirm. The slots in the plates allow for much more variance in the frames. It also allows people to move the rearset where they would like.
  13. 3 points
    OK, I've put 80 miles on the bike since the past two days had good weather. Here's what I think so far: Engine characteristics are just what I was looking for: Performance between my 2015 FZ-07 and the 2020 CB300R I traded back in to get the MT-03. Off-idle torque is surprisingly good and taking off from a stop is easy. From there to 7,000 RPM, there's enough oomph to leisurely ride to your heart's content in this range without fear of getting run over by other traffic. 7,000 RPM is where it gets into the powerband and power noticeably increases, revving strongly to 12,000 RPM. It's a fun little engine and surprisingly quick at times while being very friendly and easy to ride. Vibration is minimal (practically speaking, I don't notice any while riding), the clutch works well and the transmission shifts well. Transition from throttle off to throttle on is very good with no sudden application of power when opening the throttle, often called Throttle Snatch. This is something that I had heard was not so great, and I'm happy to report that it is very good, indeed. No complaints. The bike cuts up corners on back roads just fine, feeling light yet stable. The tires are Dunlop GPR300 radials (not bias ply IRCs as some of the initial reports from a few months ago stated, thank God) and they work very well even though the temperatures are not yet summer-like. I imagine they'll be great when it gets a bit warmer. Brakes are good. The front is actually satisfactory to me, a relief since some of the reviews that have recently come out say it's crap, so I can't agree there. The stock front brake on my 2020 CB300R? Now, that was crap, although EBC HH pads made that pretty good. I'll install EBC HH front pads on the MT-03, anyway, since I already brought some. The rear brake is just fine and dandy. Suspension is surprisingly good considering it's viewed as a budget bike or beginner bike. Both ends take the bumps well and maintain traction, and so far, I haven't found anything to gripe about. If you want to try suspension that will make you gripe, my 2007 Suzuki SV650 did that pretty well with forks that made you feel every square-edge bump and crack in the road, and the rear shock wasn't much better. Race Tech Emulators and an Ohlins did the trick for that bike. There's a chance I'll buy an aftermarket rear shock for the MT-03 at some point, just because I'm an adult and I can do things like that. The looks and styling of the bike is one area I feel is so-so. It's not bad, but the CB300R definitely had much better styling to it. To me, the MT-03 reminds me of something from 1995, especially in the all-black color that I chose (didn't care for the fluorescent orange wheels on the other color choice). One part of the MT03 styling I like is the LED headlight and two running lights. They look pretty sleek without being dumb, and I imagine at some point somebody will ask me where I bought the aftermarket headlight. I haven't ridden the bike at night yet, so I can't comment on how the headlight works on shedding light in the darkness. So, there you go so far. If you want to know more, just ask.
  14. 2 points
    Little progress tonight after dinner. Degreased the frame and the pressure washed it to get and debris I couldn’t reach. powder coating would have been a great option but didn’t want to have to blast the entire frame. Not sure if it would fit in my big cabinet or not. Customer wants black, I’m kind of into the grey.
  15. 2 points
    I agree with @cornerslider. I suggest pulling the rear sprocket and laying it on glass or some other known flat surface to check for runout with a feeler gauge as a first step. That'll cost you nothing. Good luck resolving your issue.
  16. 2 points
    All due respect.... I it would be highly unlikely that a wheel falling over on the sprocket would bend it. What most likely happened in the the "cushions" in the cush drive shifted slightly. Maybe remove the wheel and be sure the cush drive isn't shifted, or binding somehow. I also agree with @DewMan, 1mm of run-out is nothing-
  17. 2 points
    I would look at the front sprocket for any crazy wear, if it was okay then I would just replace the rear sprocket.
  18. 2 points
    Hello from Blightly all, and although I know this is an old post, I thought I would chip in. In October 2018 I persuaded/nagged the very clever head honcho of the bike dept at Nitron into finishing their tvt cartridge kit and using my bike as the final development mule. They had previously dismantled another set of forks in 2014 but not progressed. Unfortunately the fork bottoms do require machining out to fit their 22mm cartridge kit. I ordered an R3 shock with HPA at the same time. When I collected the bike the shock wasn't fitted, and the first thing to say is that DON'T run them with a standard shock. The soggy stock rear and firm front meant no weight on front wheel and instant lock up even on a hot day. Once I'd fitted shock and set static sag (added preload rear,wound right off front) I took it out and found the front too stiff on compression and rear perfect from the box. I've wound all the front compression off and even pulling stoppies I still have unused travel. So on their advice I am removing 5ml fork oil at a time to soften off the last part of the stroke,but covid19 means we're all on lockdown . I've been riding for 20 years, did more trackdays than I can possibly remember and dabbled in club racing for a few years. I've run ktech and ohlins on race bikes and ohlins on road bikes. I'm no Rossi by any stretch but I have been around for a while. What I can say is that my suspension is almost perfect for fast road/track use, holds a line nicely and isn't bad over bumps. I'm sure the last 1% will come with the oil removal. They're just as well made as ktech and ohlins (possibly better) on the outside, and have superior bump absorption than either on road. My only criticism is possibly the shock is slightly underdamped for a racer with slicks, but that's not me anymore. Hope this helps someone and hope you guys are all safe and well! Oh and customer service is loads better than ktech, who werent bad, and ohlins who cant even need arsed to answer emails from a pleb like me!
  19. 2 points
    One nice thing about Dunlop rains is they hold up better than the other manufacturers rains when used on marginal tracks. They are all great in the rain, but; when it starts to dry out or the track is wet some places and dry others or the track is too damp for slicks but still not wet you can let er buck with the Dunlops. I've done a ton of dry laps on these that would (and did) shag my old Michelins and these are still going. We ran a 20 lap trophy dash that was bone dry by lap 10 and I figured I was out $500 but the bastards are still rolling.
  20. 2 points
    I bought these 2 1/2 years ago for MotoAmerica and flipped my 6 year old Pirelli's since we needed Dunlops as spec tires. Guy I sold the P's to flipped his 13 year old set of Michelins to get my old P's, you get the idea. Sell em in the rain for $250 years from now at the track when you mount your next set.
  21. 2 points
    Won't make you feel much better but that's not uncommon with wets. They can be tough to move for vendors if it doesn't rain often at the track. Racers tend buy them when they need them, keep em a few years and sell em. Then do it over since you rarely wear them out. Mine are 5 & 8 years old respectively and worn out physically but still grip like a whore to your wallet. I'll get new ones some day. Keep them outta the sun and stored in your basement and don't worry, they'll be fine.
  22. 2 points
    ERV3 is an X ring chain. Not sure if stock was Xring or Oring. I ran standard chains for a long time. First time I used a sealed chain I though I had a dragging brake. Forget about coasting! The amount of friction added by a sealed chain is very noticeable. Especially if you are on a small cc/ low powered bike. A top quality X ring like ERV3 is gonna be noticeably less friction compared to your average sealed chain.
  23. 2 points
    Like your other 'incremental' mods every little bit helps. It'll spin up and decelerate just a tad bit quicker than a stock 525 due to less weight & friction. Together with the rest of your dodads you're getting the most out of her. There's a reason near every bike in the MotoGP paddock runs a 520 ERV3. Enjoy your religious experience, plus it looks cool. BLR
  24. 2 points
  25. 2 points
    Good enough? Two zipties. Pointing more forward than up.
  26. 2 points
    I'll tell ya where ya can stic...
  27. 2 points
    Now I get to see where I am slow and not so slow on the track. Lol. And also the Woodcraft key switch eliminator is pictured. A little over 1 month to go before the first track day, assuming our governor opens the NY economy up again.
  28. 2 points
    I have encountered similar situations and I flat out tell them that I don’t want to be the guy scraping them off the pavement or watching them lay in more agony than they should. I can’t enjoy a ride with someone wearing flip flops and a T shirt. My .02
  29. 2 points
    I'm 5'5" and 150 pounds. The bike fits me well, the seat is very comfortable, and the seat height is lower than some other bikes.
  30. 2 points
    Hey, everyone. Thanks so much for all of your input. Just a quick update to let you all know how this went. I was ultimately able to find the issue and get the bike running again, and it turned out to be the simplest, stupidest issue (as I'm sure is often the case). I found that it definitely wasn't getting spark, so with the help of a professional motorcycle mechanic friend of mine we were tracking down the causes with his service manual. While I was waiting for him to take a look at some of the more technical stuff, I was checking (for what felt like the hundredth time) some of the wiring just to make sure I hadn't missed anything. Sure enough, I had. There was one semi-hidden wire running from my Power Commander's wiring harness that was supposed to be connected to the negative terminal of the battery. It appears that at some point under the previous owner's hands, the metal cable end snapped, and his decision was apparently to use electrical tape to stick it back in place, which came loose and caused spark to cut. This isn't the first time I've been irritated with the handiwork of the previous owner, and I'm sure it won't be the last. I'm just glad it was a free repair. Again, thanks for all of your input and suggestions.
  31. 2 points
    Spent some time the couple of nights reworking the risers to give guys height and adjustment options with their rears sets. The adjustment was a bit difficult to work out since they differently shaped and make sure the adjustment moves back and not and an angle so you can use bike jacks on the pegs. First scanned the plates alone to overlay the adjustment slots of the stock units. In the process learned a couple of things in process like any project. 3D printing a couple to double check the fitment and will be able to toss them on a bike in the morning. Since we sold out of the non adjustable risers this was a good time to spend the time and finish the new design to get them out and on a couple bikes in the shops. I will post some pictures tomorrow when they are done printing.
  32. 2 points
    If you must reused the crush washers boil them in water. Otherwise run to the parts store and buy new ones. Not worth getting hurt over $2.
  33. 2 points
    I Have galfer SS lines with copper crush washers, unfortunately the rear is oxidizing and (turning a lighter shade of pale, green) i rode today and it wiped clean with my index finger!!! Doesn't relate to anything really other than crush washers. I'm just happy the forum is up and running again. @Cruizin
  34. 1 point
    I just ordered an exhaust from China off Ebay on March 24 and it arrived today March 31!! I've ordered a shitload of parts over the years and never had something arrive so fast. It looks great quality too. I'll be taking it apart to do a repack since that looks easy to do.
  35. 1 point
    Don’t know anything about them, but the caps look cool
  36. 1 point
    There's a bunch of boats that sit off the coast of New York. Registered to Chinese companies, parked in international waters, but minutes offshore. Basically floating warehouses, though some actually house small factories. That's how a lot of stuff gets "from China" to us so quickly. I'll let you figure out the rest. Man, New York sure did get hit hard with the Corona, eh?
  37. 1 point
    You should be close. There is no right or wrong or cookie cutter set up. Every one is different; different sets of variables like shock length & valving, spring length, various links/no links, fork set ups, tire sizes, rider skill, size, riding style, preferences, etc, just like you elluded to. Next there is no substitute for testing/fiddling/experimentation. I would start with forks flush then go a couple-3mm at a time after riding a 20 mile test loop to see what you like and how she responds. It's easy enough to fiddle with moving the forks up and down and then you'll know, not have to guess or wonder if the grass is greener someplace else. Same in the back with preload after you set rider sag at both ends somewhere in the 3/4" to 1 1/2" range. You want the ends to play nice together. Remember one ends problems can make the other end seem wonky. Too much sag in front can feel like too much squat in back under acceleration, too little rebound in back can make the front seem to dive too much on the brakes as the rear pitches up and so on. Get it right and it's pure sweetness. She'll feel like a cat squatting to pounce as both ends sit down when hard on the brakes. And it wont do the rocking horse on/off throttle as it'll feel like being pushed hard and level by heavenly forces when coming out of corners under full throttle. If you're using it primarily as a commuter I'd tend toward the long end of sag and let the suspension work through as much travel as you can safely use based on your 'test route'. With Andrianis up front and the RR out back it'll naturally feel more sporty as it should be far more capable than stock but it's going to take a fair amount af fiddling to get it there. Get it right and commuting will never be the same.
  38. 1 point
  39. 1 point
    Race wets came in today! But it looks like the front was made five years ago? Personally, I find this unacceptable. Any thoughts? Is this normal? Thanks. The rear was made in 2019. These were purchased direct from Dunlop's website, shipped from Florida.
  40. 1 point
    the only change done by 525 -> 520 conversion is some weight savings. and slightly cheaper parts.
  41. 1 point
    So I went for a 50 mile ride today, and I still can't believe the difference +1 tooth on the rear has made which leads to this question: Is there a performance difference from switching from a 525 chain to the 520. I went from the stock and crappy 525 to a 520 set of Vortex steel spockets 16/44 and a DID ERV/3 chain. I can't imagine how the 525/520 conversion would make a performance difference, but who knows. I got a bit more interstate time today, and now 6th gear is not an anemic overdrive. Thoughts anyone? BTW, I'm surely not complaining, just curious.
  42. 1 point
    None of the cool kids can do it, because it's not MotoAmerica legal for Twins Cup.
  43. 1 point
    Double E is kinda right. It's ambient air temp but we need it hooked up. Aside from the dash board temp display the ecu uses that info. You can move it but for best function I'd leave it upright somewhere near the front (cold air) of the bike.
  44. 1 point
    My advise.... Buy the bike you WANT, and don't worry about the money. I've owned bikes for 12 years, and only lost $350. I've also owned bikes for 2 years, and lost several thousand dollars.... You can't pick the timing, or predict the market. You might as well get the bike you like, and just enjoy it -
  45. 1 point
    I went for another good ride today, and I am now adding a new must-do to my list for a total of three absolutely mandatory changes to the FZ/MT-07 IMHO. # 1 is definitely a flash (2WDW) followed by a R6 throttle tube (OEM not Motion Pro), and the new one is adding one tooth to the rear sprocket. This combination is the shet - smooth and snappy, but not to the point that you are running high revs as you do if you seriously go for lower gearing. If you throw in a MWR air filter, you will get an overall sound way better than stock (snorkel removed), and it won't affect your tuning. I changed those three in the order of R6 throttle, flash and then gearing over the course of 10,000 miles. Each one made a noticable difference. In retrospect, I think I would have had a major religious experience if I did them all at once If you are a newbie FZ/MT-07 tweaker wannabe, those three are where to start. You will have a completely different riding experience to the point it seems like a new and much better bike. Enjoy!
  46. 1 point
    Just installed my Corbin seat and it's awesome! I realize there are several other Corbin posts out there but I figured I'd add my input and pics as well. Install was simple. It hooks underneath the metal fuel tank (not the factory seat hook) at the front and attaches using the factory rear seat latch. When I first installed it, I had to push down pretty hard on the rear to get it to latch. I added 2 small washers under the hook at the rear to make it latch a little easier and now it's perfect. The fit and finish is impressive and I like the looks of the seat much more than I was expecting to. I'm 6/2 and 215lbs and I have about 350ish miles on the seat now and the first thing I noticed is that it adds a noticeable amount of height over the factory seat (and even the Seat Concepts seat this is replacing). I'm now leaned a little more forward now. I wasn't expecting that but luckily I happen to have taller replacement handlebars laying around that I'll install to help get myself more upright again. The height seems to come from the added shape to the front of the seat where it meets the tank. Much more material here than stock. The seat has a nice curve at the rear of the front seat that, as others have mentioned, works nice to hold you in place during hard acceleration. The seat still allows easy maneuvering from side to side for spirited riding although that will likely be different with other seat coverings. I can say though that the seat shape doesn't impede side-to-side movement. I have the Gunfighter model which has a smaller profile at the rear as compared to their more pillion-friendly Gunfighter and Lady version. I don't take passengers but I'm willing to bet that my seat is much more comfy than the stock rear seat. Another thing to note about the rear is that it is nice and flat making it easy to strap a tailbag to it which I like. Ballparking the amount of time before I started feeling some discomfort on each seat goes something like this: stock seat = 1hr or so, Seat Concepts foam and cover replacement = 1.5-2hrs, Corbin = 3+hrs so far. Of course these are my findings and everybody will have different results but I can comfortably go a full tank of gas now without squirming around in the seat. I should mention that even once I start to feel some discomfort, it stays manageable now and I'm finding that I really don't need to move around like I did with the previous seats. Things may change as the seat breaks in and I'll keep this post updated on any new info. I ordered the seat here as they had the best prices I could find: https://biohazardcycles.com/corbin-y-fz7-14-g-gunfighter-saddle-seat-fz07-fz-07/ Seat showed up about 3 weeks later. The options I went with are: Black Carbon Fiber for the seat, tail, and welt. Asphalt Vinyl for the sides. Black stitching and logo. On to the pics,
  47. 1 point
    I really took my time doing this and tried to document it as best I could. I hope this helps someone. If you've read this far, you should know that I'm not an expert so I apologize if I got something wrong above - hence the disclaimer at the start. But I did follow the manual to the letter, and my machine did indeed start up and runs just fine after the procedure. I will say that I actually screwed up and turned the crankshaft before I put the chain tensioner on (like an idiot!), so I had to retime the engine using the alignment marks without the aid of my witness marks. But my motor didn't blow up in the end!
  48. 1 point
  49. 1 point
    The standard gearing is so low first gear is nearly useless. Save your buck$ - shift down a gear.
  50. 1 point
    WHY ARE YOU YELLING? Hehehe, welcome to the FZ-07 club! I personally had to cut my rubber housing a little bit to fit the fan motor and heatsink attached to the LED bulb. It wasn't difficult. From what I know, that housing is made for halogen bulbs that don't have the additional parts like a fan motor and heatsink. So anything like an HID or LED will require you to cut the housing to make space. I personally l prefer Cyclop's bulbs installed on both of my bikes as their long-term quality and customer service is top notch. Here's their 10K Lumen LED bulb for $79.95. And here's a quick installation video from YouTube.
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