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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/14/2019 in all areas

  1. 8 points
    My new Gulf livery on my 2017 Fz07. Just passed 10,000 miles and figured that it was time for a change. For this being my very first wrap, I was very excited about how it came out. I would be glad to hear any questions or comments. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 2 views. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 2 views.
  2. 4 points
    So I'm going to the tail of the dragon in early September, and yesterday I met up with the dragon group to do a last shakedown ride before the dragon trip. I've ridden with these guys before, but never on the new suspension. I don't know how to describe the difference. I was keeping up before, but it took some risks. I was one of the slower guys in the pack, and if the roads got bumpy in corners, I'd have to take advantage of the "we'll wait for everyone to catch up at the next intersection" rule. With the new suspension this was no longer the case. I was toward the front of the pack, and, believe it or not, hanging right there with an RSV4 and an S1000RR, which were the two leaders. On the straights, of course, I had no chance, but in the turns it no longer felt like I was hanging on for dear life. It felt closer mindset-wise to a work commute ride (admittedly, while dragging knee,) than it did to a balls-to-the-wall ride on the edge of the limit where I was barely keeping up. Some of the guys who were consistently faster than me pre-suspension change now were on the receiving end of me waiting for them to catch up at the next intersection, including a GSXR1000 with a rider of 15 years’ experience on it. I can't talk up a properly setup suspension enough. It won't turn your bike into a superbike, that's not the point, but it made the bike feel like it's an extension of myself. I can correct mid-corner, I can give inputs to the bike without worrying if the suspension will get in the way of the bike listening to me, I can expect thing X to happen, and thing X will happen, time after time. It just makes the bike feel like it should have from the factory. It's not a budget bike anymore. It's a properly well-balanced twin. Upgrade your suspension before you do anything else if you do any sort of spirited riding at all.
  3. 4 points
    Grubbing up on route to Pitt, Randomville, USA. Brought buddies little trailer, 10mpg instead of 6. 0505 hours, another tar parking lot, another track. Crew sound asleep, work to be done. Coffee made, tires swapped out, breakfast cooking, tech in an hour, 100% humidity. They're getting gravy wrung from my skivies on their biscuits. I guess they should have got up & helped!?
  4. 4 points
    Ran my first track day with The Riders Club on Monday. Had another Great Day! The Riders Club ran a well organized and safe event. It was a Monday with limited attendees. This was was nice because there were not a lot of bikes on the track and it allowed me to focus more on my riding. I finally moved up to the Intermediate Group. I also dragged a knee for the first time. I was following an instructor at a quicker pace the first time it happened, I didn't realize what it was a first, it certainly surprised me . But I was dragging my right knee regularly through a few turns for the rest of the day. Gotta get the left down now . The more I ride my modified FZ-07, the more I love it. It handles so well now. I received a few positive comments on my build and how well it performed on the track. It was a Great Day. Ed
  5. 3 points
    Maybe this should be in "Tech"? Anyway, admins feel free to move if you feel. I started a blog on my site to try and keep from having to explain the same things over and over again to customers. Maybe some already understand, maybe you're curious about bike setup in general or why you'd want to hand over money for different offset triples. Anyway just trying to help people out a bit and understand why when I tell you just putting R6 forks on the bike with R6 yokes is a bad idea maybe the visual will help. Also has some info on some software I use at the track and who I use for my suspension work outside of myself. Click the link below if you're interested. Post | Custom Road Race Motorcycle Parts | Robem Engineering | United States
  6. 3 points
    Keep you hand on the clutch It will be a bumpy ride, but if you even think your losing control Pull in the clutch about halfway, this will give you that little bit of time to regain control
  7. 3 points
    Slowly ticking away at the ole girl... Fairings Mounted and Temporary Paint Booth erected. Always open to suggestions. Still need to order brake lines and an R6 Brake reservoir. See the new video below!!
  8. 2 points
    Actually because of initial cost I don't see many Akros on race bikes; track day bikes that are street legal yes, race bikes no. Now that you mention it I see mostly cheaper systems on race bikes, like Yosh, M4, black widow, 2 Brother. I see Graves, Akros, on trackday/street bikes. Makes sense cause we wreck stuff. I've never seen a blown up Akro, broken fasteners and stuff from vibration yes. Blown out rivets yes. Ruptured cans, no. It's been my experience that racing will wreck any-everything eventually. This may come as a surprise to some of you but I'm hard in stuff. I may try to fit an Akro race can to my Yosh head pipes next.
  9. 2 points
    I have. I sent my first can in for a repack and they called me back and said "WTF did you do to this?" They said it looked like I was trying to muffle a Rolls Royce turbine, all burned up inside and work hardened. They sent me a new one for a reasonable price and hooked me up with a nice sponsorship deal. I used it to replace the next can (cooked and blown) and also got a full system when that can ruptured. (My current spare system) The can in the above pic is that can and the spare carbon can I scored from AP is now on the bike. The sponsorship has since expired and I'm going to look at another system next for racing. More so for the sake of experimentation than anything. I know guys with other systems that have this problem or that problem with their systems too so I don't necessarily think Yosh is a bad system just that when ridden hard these bikes generate a ton of pressure and heat what with the short head pipes and deactivated throttle chop fueling etc. You can see the heat discoloration in this view on the inlet side and that's with a proper tune and proper fuel/air ratios. You can also see where the rupture started at the unsupported weld seam on the outlet end, sometimes its the other end. Apparently work hardened again. Meh, next.
  10. 2 points
    Beemer reminds me that, in a turn, we should be looking at the road ahead rather than the next few feet of the (pavement) road; that helps to make the turn successful. Also, be aware that some riders (incl. me) are good at turning one way but not so good at turning the other way.
  11. 2 points
    It's normal and I like the clunk because if my display ever goes out it's the only way to know you're in 1st gear.
  12. 2 points
    So about a month ago, I decided I wanted this kit because of the looks and the apparent convenience of it: Yamaha MT-07 FZ-07 bi-xenon headlight upgrade kit Want to improve the looks and light output of your Yamaha MT-07 FZ-07? Don't look further and take look at our custom bi-xenon headlight upgrade kit. But I was living in Connecticut this summer, and my bike was in New Jersey. So while I was away, my dad installed it (his labor is a good price for letting him ride my bike). He did it over about 4 days when he got home from work, and he did come across some issues. I've heard the company has great customer service, but he's on the stubborn side and he was eventually able to figure it out himself. He did note the directions were poor and seemed incomplete. But in the end, here's the finished product. I did order the extra LED daytime running light which you see at the bottom of the headlight, but he forgot to install that. So you may notice the light at the bottom isn't LED in the pictures. I LOVE the looks!
  13. 2 points
    We got down to 1:55's with room to spare which is not bad for a track day, BUT, This happened to my Yosh can. Third one that's failed. Good thing I went dumpster diving at AP's a couple weeks ago and scored that carbon version as a spare. Looks like metal fatigue as opposed to heat related. It's just ripped open and it barfed it's packing out. I know we generate some high pressures and heat since I've cooked 2 others from the inside out. This one shows no signs of excessive heat however. We're gonna throttle back for today and digest our data. Great day!
  14. 2 points
    Check out a little ride I did to test the light. It lights up such a wide view! I'm impressed. It is also really bright, but not blinding to oncoming traffic. It scatters the light really well. The bulb is the D2H XB35 5500K one, and I still have to install the 6000K daytime running light but I don't know how much that'll change things.
  15. 2 points
    From what I've read here and experienced first hand the only OEM part that I would NOT use is the lower Teflon bushings. IMO all of the OEM seals and upper Teflon bushings are better than the All-Balls kit from my 1st hand experience. The OEM lower bushings have a history of losing their Teflon coating very quickly. I've not heard any complaints regarding the the AllBalls lower bushings. The All-Balls upper bushings were too tight, the seals a bit too tall making installing the snap ring almost impossible even after confirming that the seals were fully seated in the recess. When my bike next needs a fork rebuild I'll be going with all OEM parts except the lower Teflon coated bushings. Edit: don't forget the copper crush washers for the lower fork bolts when you order parts.
  16. 2 points
    If I may, I don't see that as being "stubborn" but rather embracing and solving the challenge oneself. This is old-school, male/dad stuff. Self-reliant and all that. Pre-cell phone, pre-www, paper maps and all. I have a bit of it in meself as well, as my wife will somewhat angrily attest. Unless, of course, the lights go out, or the dishwasher doesn't work, or the repairman wants $500, or the car stops working, or . . . . I'm nearly certain that many on this here forum share this trait. You get the idea. Cheers.
  17. 2 points
    I don't know if this topic is relevant anymore but I have the Shad Sh23 cases on my 2017 FZ-07. I didn't have to do anything special to make them fit. Cutting the fairings was the only part I didn't like. What's odd is Shad's site doesn't list the 2017 FZ-07 as one that can use the 3P mounting system, however I bought the 3P rack for the 2018 MT-07 and it fit perfectly. The side cases fit perfectly as well. Absolutely no touching the lights in the back or anything. Super easy install.
  18. 2 points
    Fair point Dewman. I used the recommended Shorais in a few bikes ( my race then street bikes). The problem was they would become reluctant to start after a while. The charging voltages were all fine but the batteries after a while would simple fail to turn the bike over. This was particularly true of my TR650. When it went to buy a LiFePO4 Shorai for the GS500 project bike , I thought as an afterthought to see what they were speccing for the MT07 ( I had bought one as soon as I had bought the bike). The new spec was 50% higher than the old one. I have a shed of dead Shorais that simply died ( suspect one cell in them goes). I ressurected one when I bought an Optimate charger but the others are sick. After changing to SB's I haven't had any troubles. I got that because the recommended Shorai wasn't available for my GF's KTM 690 so I got a SB locally. It didn't miss a beat even starting that giant cyl. This could have been a teething trouble with the original introduction and may no longer be the case, but it has put me off Shorai, not LiFePO4. I spent many hundreds of dollars on unreliable batteries. That with the very poor and expensive off bike Shorai charger that never seemed to work properly. A Note or two : 1. LiFePO4 charge perfectly well in motorcycles. They require > 12.8V , NOT 13.8 as you see some people claim occasionally . That is for Li-ion batteries, not Li-iron. That why I have moived to calling them Lithium ferro phosphate to avoid confusion. 2. The best off bike charger I have found is recent Optimate LiFePO4 specific charger. It even resurrected one of the batteries that I couldn't charge with the Shorai charger. The rest were cactus though.
  19. 2 points
    Reminds me of the Le Mans GT40:
  20. 2 points
    Not sure how much you paid to have the oil drain bolt fixed, but for about $75 plus shipping from yamahapartshouse.com, you can get the whole oil pan and a pan gasket. From the looks of the online fiche, the pan may come with a drain bolt, if not, it's a little over $6 and change. I'd suggest fixing it properly, then you won't have to think about different ways to change the oil, or drain some if you put too much in. If it's leaking, it's a point of failure waiting to happen. Whichever you decide to do is totally up to you and each of makes our own choices on how we fix or replace things. I'm not the most extravagant person either and I even call myself cheap (replacing a $200 plus radiator with a $100 one. Not the same as your talking but you get the idea). Good luck however you decide.
  21. 2 points
    Congratulations! It's a big deal the first time! Its nice to have that standard 'knee down proof' pic on top of it. I'm still better one way than the other too. Giddyup.
  22. 2 points
    Make sure the axle nut is loose and and everything is freed up by wiggling the tire back and forth a bit. Then give the tire a good schwonk from behind to seat the adjusters snug against the swingarm, making sure the adjuster marks are even on both sides. Then, from directly astern the bike, use your knee to keep the wheel pressed forward as you tighten the axle nut.
  23. 2 points
    Welcome to the forum, KayDee. Glad to have you with us. Good idea on the class. Since you note that you are somewhat frightened of them, I suggest that you don't buy your new motorcycle before you take the class because if you get in the class and decide riding is not for you as it still scares you (or for some other reason), then you won't have a motorcycle that you may turn around and have to sell, or have it just sitting around gathering dust. That said, as Rider Coach, I say pick the bike you are comfortable on and that fits you, meaning that you are comfortable with how you sit on the bike (body position, how well you touch the ground, how light or heavy the bike feels to you, etc.). This is important because a bike that you are uncomfortable on will make it harder for you to ride and build your skills and confidence.
  24. 2 points
    This is probably one of the easiest and greatest bang-for-buck mods you can do both in the performance of the product itself and the huge increase in safety. If you have a bike (not just an FZ) you should really try one of these bulbs. What's in the box: LED bulb assembly, plug-and-play sub-harness, printed instructions Tools needed: 4mm allen, double-sided tape/velcro (optional) Difficulty: 2/5 Purchased from: http://www.cyclopsadventuresports.com/3800-Lumen-H4-LED-Headlight-bulb-_p_83.html Use coupon code: FZ-07 for a discount off the already ridiculously low $65 retail price! Entire assembly (chapstick for size reference): Now on to the install! First off, remove the headlight assembly. To do so, take off the two 4mm bolts on either side of the headlight assembly and the entire thing will swing down. You'll see a little rubber "pocket" with a bunch of wires tucked inside. This is where the blinker wires are tucked away. Open up this pocket and undo the connectors for the turn signals, then unplug the headlight and running light down below. Once you've done this you can remove the entire assembly from the bike. Once you've done that, remove the stock bulb and throw it away. You're so over it, just like Bobby. He was a huge jerk. The Cyclops unit has a removable mounting base which is convenient for how some bikes (in this case, ours) hold the bulb in place in the headlight enclosure. Pop those two pieces apart (they just rotate) and then put the base into the bulb slot and clamp it down: Followed by the bulb and fan assembly: At this point, you can trim your stock moisture boot or not. I cut out the center portion as it's a perfect match to the diameter of the fan housing for the LED bulb. Now it has plenty of ventilation and will keep most of the moisture out of the enclosure if you get stuck in the rain. It's a cheap part to replace (only 5 bucks) if you ever decide to go back to a standard halogen bulb. Once you do all that, plug all your harnesses back in for your various lights, tuck them in the pocket and then mount the LED electronics thingy wherever you'd like. I stuck mine to one of the reinforcements on the inside of the housing with a small strip of velcro. There's not a bounty of free space back there, but you've got a few options you can run with. I found everything went together easiest with the little box to either side near those reinforced areas and the headlight harness going down below as there's not enough room in the rubber pocket once you go to wiggle it back in place. If it feels like it's binding up somewhere, make sure the pocket hasn't come off its little perches and that something isn't getting crimped. There is a metal collar that goes inside the rubber grommet on either side of the assembly and this can get hung up on the bracket that everything bolts onto, so be sure it's lined up properly and not getting hung up on anything. Once all the wiring is situated properly, tighten everything down and you're 95% done! You'll want to re-aim your headlight before you go riding as the output is WAY different from a halogen bulb. There are two bolts that adjust the headlight. You can either use a phillips screwdriver or a 10mm driver. The one on the lower left controls the up/down where CCW is up and CW is down. The one on the upper right controls the left/right position where CCW is left and CW is right. Here are two pictures after I re-aimed the bulb in a dark lot of the low beam and high beam: Low Beam: High Beam: I tried running it with oncoming traffic and got flashed a couple times, so I may try aiming it a bit lower and to the right so I can try running the high beam all the time as it's pretty flippin' awesome. A big thanks goes out to the guys at Cyclops for helping me out when I had the bad bulb. They made it right 100% and shipped me a new one free of charge. They were quick to respond to my emails and I couldn't be any happier now that I've got a properly working unit. The output is amazing and the added visibility is greatly appreciated over the puny stock bulb. For $60 you'd be silly not to get one of these and upgrade your headlight.
  25. 1 point
    Best to establish your current baseline bike/rider sag and hard brake numbers with a zip tie before making any changes. However, this is more for spring and preload, and does not provide and rebound info which mostly visual and feel. Not familiar with the Race Tech Gold Valve Emulators, but rebound damping control is desperately needed on the stock forks.
  26. 1 point
  27. 1 point
  28. 1 point
    according to Google, 1,800 Thai Baht = USD $59 or 53 euro or 48 GPB I can only guess the shipping would probably double the price?
  29. 1 point
    I've seen projector kits. What does 1,800 B equal in USD?
  30. 1 point
    I assume you are not running a baffle? The carbon can will last not long if you are having issues with the stainless version. Heat is not friendly to the resins in carbon fiber.
  31. 1 point
    Not as radical, but do you have these over there? http://www.k-speed.net/product/1738933/ไฟ-projecter-ซีนอน-6000k-พร้อมวงแหวน-led-สีขาว-for-mt-07.html
  32. 1 point
    Looks cool! It has a nostalgic quality about it with that scheme, visions of Route 66 come to mind. That's a keeper!
  33. 1 point
    looks great and different from the norm, so double great
  34. 1 point
  35. 1 point
    Well since my Daytona got stolen I bought a triumph tiger 800. Just in time for the mabdr next week. As for the FZ its now got ohlins front and rear!!! Ohlins nix 22 for the forks and stx46 shock for the rear. The fz will be my track bike now. I plan on buying another Daytona 675 at some point next year and when I do the fz will be converted to an FZ07R. All the fz 07r mod that I can put on while still keeping the bike street legal will but added over the winter and once I have the new Daytona I'll buy the fz07r body work.
  36. 1 point
    I have hit the 78,000 mile mark and the bike is still running strong. Oil+ filter change every 5k. Valve adjustment at 50k. The bike is stock and I commute 120 per day in SoCal. 2015 model Anybody out there have more mileage?
  37. 1 point
  38. 1 point
    If you are going to think about a Honda 500, there is also the Rebel 500 (in UK at least). However, I can see it being the R3, and why not. Enjoy.
  39. 1 point
    Drag me along with ya, I need to get out of Phoenix for a bit
  40. 1 point
  41. 1 point
    Hey Zeus, I did and currently I am at 84700. Engine is working as smooth as it ever has.
  42. 1 point
    Welcome from Waterford! We have a lot in common as this too is my first bike in about 10 years. I too have the “mod bug” and will be done with about everything within the week. Dm me if you would like to go for a ride!
  43. 1 point
    I just got a set of them. They are made on the older catalyst molds so the lowers hit the exhaust on some headers. The exhaust I run is based on a Yosh header with a modified R6 Yosh muffler and it makes contact. Fairings themselves are very nice though and its pretty simple to make the adjustment by glassing a bump into the lower.
  44. 1 point
    DISCLAIMER This was a summary of my experience following the shop manual. You should know that this is a procedure with major potential for damaging your engine if you do this incorrectly. What follows is intended to supplement the shop manual, not replace it. The shop manual is absolutely required for this service as it provides exact steps necessary and corresponding torque values for fasteners and heaps of other useful bits of information and helpful diagrams. Perform this service at your own risk. You should be familiar with taking apart your bike for other service before you begin. You should have a firm grasp of how an engine's valve train works to understand what you are doing and why. Tools/supplies you'll need: Yamaha's FZ07 factory service manual 7.48mm OD valve shims - buy a kit or exchange shims with a dealer/shop I used a Hot Cams HCSHIM01 kit. Amazon will say it doesn't fit an FZ07 and they are wrong. 1/4" drive torque wrench 3mm trimmed hex key for cam chain tensioner 2.5mm - 14mm hex drivers or keys 8mm - 13mm box wrenches 8mm - 19mm sockets 14mm deep socket for spark plugs 19mm socket for crankshaft nut (same size as front axle) 1/4" socket extensions, wobble Extendable magnet to pull spark plugs New cam chain tensioner gasket (if you want) New valve cover rubber gasket (if you damage the original one) Feeler gauges Vessel to contain drained coolant Big ass pliers for the coolant pipe spring clamps Philips screwdriver for worm hose clamps Plastic zip ties Air compressor to blow spark plug wells clean (optional) Funnel (optional if you're brave) Gasket sealant or grease (optional if your gasket behaves and stays in place) Procedure Drain coolant. Allow the coolant to drain while you complete the next steps. Remove plastic body work. Remove gas tank fasteners (1, 2), breather hoses (3), and front electronic sensor connection (4) Lift up gas tank to remove fuel pump connector (1), then lift and rotate gas tank counter clockwise and rest on cardboard on the frame. Rest the aluminum bendy tabs back where they were fastened, and the black steel portion on the cardboard. Whatever direction you twist it, be sure that when you replace it, you twist the opposite direction. You could remove the tank if you'd like but that requires removing the fuel line from the tank. Now that the coolant has drained, replace the drain bolt and begin removing the radiator. Remove the fairings, radiator guard (if equipped), and the single bolt on the throttle side (1). The radiator hands on 1 rubber grommet on the clutch side, 1 rubber grommet near the triple tree, and the single bolt you just removed. There's an inlet hose on the top clutch side, an outlet hose on the bottom throttle side, and the small overflow line near the cap. Remove each of these lines however you wish - I removed the bike-side connections for each hose, not the radiator-side, but it doesn't really matter. Remove the horn's electrical connections (2), and the fan motor connection (3). The radiator probably has some residual coolant left, be ready with paper towels. Gently place it on some cardboard with the hose connections facing up (4). Remove the clutch cable guide (1). You're now ready to remove the spark plugs. Unplug each coil (1) and tape each plug to the frame so you remember which side is which! Pull the coils by hand only. Then pull the plugs using a 14mm deep socket and wobble extensions. When removing the coils and plugs, mark on a big sheet of cardboard which coil is which (2) so you know it all goes back together when it was removed from. If you're doing this service, I hope you've removed them once already and left yourself some silicone grease or similar on the rubber boot seal so they're not so hard to remove. Remove the crankcase breather hose (1). Remove valve cover bolts in a criss-cross pattern (1). Zip tie various wiring harnesses, cables, etc out of the way before you begin. Then wiggle and lever out the valve cover without damaging the rubber gasket (2). Place the valve cover gasket side up on cardboard. Remove the crankshaft end cover with 14mm hex driver, and remove riming mark access cover (1). Use 19mm socket and turn crankshaft counter clockwise until timing mark on flywheel aligns with mark on crankcase cover (2), and marks on intake cam sprocket (3) and exhaust cam sprocket (4) all align. Your engine should now be in the service position for valve check and adjustment. DO NOT TURN THE CRANKSHAFT ONCE YOU REMOVE THE CAM CHAIN TENSIONER. THIS WILL MISTIME YOUR ENGINE AND YOU WILL HAVE TO RETIME IT. By having 4 known reference points, the engine can be timed correctly if you make a mistake - ask me how I know. The reference points are, in order of verification: 1. timing mark on flywheel/crankcase (crankshaft position), 2. piston #1 (clutch side) at TDC of compression stroke (you can place something gently through spark plug hole to rest on the piston crown and turn the engine to visualize the peak of travel when the timing mark is aligned incidating TDC of compression stroke), 3. the intake camshaft timing alignment mark (parallel with head edge), 4. the exhaust camshaft alignment mark (parallel with head edge). Now you're ready to begin checking the valve clearances. If you haven't done so already, plug the spark plug holes and the coolant output hose (1). Note that the lobes of piston #1 (clutch side) are not engaging the valve lifters ("buckets") at all. Slide the feeler gauges between the buckets and the cam lobes to measure the clearance (2). Intake should be 0.11-0.20 mm, exhaust should be 0.24-0.30 mm. You're looking for something between "no-go" and "slides right through". The gauge should kind of "stick" in-between the two. You'll "feel" what I mean - that's why they're called feeler gauges. Begin writing these down on a diagram that is explicitly clear which piston is which, and which valve is which. When you're sure of the measurement, rotate the crankshaft 270 degrees counter clockwise and measure piston #2. You could use one of those paper angle wheels or if you're like me you don't have one. I just very gently placed a long hex wrench through the spark plug hole onto the piston crown and rotated what felt like 270 degrees until I saw the piston's peak of travel visualized by the hex wrench beginning to go back down (3). If you do this do not let the angle of the hex wrench catch underneath the camshaft caps! Measure the clearance just as piston #1 and record. If your valves are all within spec, you're done! Put everything back together by following the steps in reverse order. If not, proceed to adjustment.
  45. 1 point
    Adjustment Before beginning, your engine should be stone cold and in the service position with all marks aligned as detailed above. Recheck your valve clearances and be sure your measurements are correct. Annotate your findings as detailed above. Draw out a diagram of all eight valves separated by piston side and exhaust/intake side, and left/right side. Yamaha's suggestion is below (1). Calculate the hypothetical shim adjustment value. We will add this to the actual shim that's under the bucket to get the new shim size. An example is in the diagram above. Measured shim value - desired clearance = hypothetical shim adjustment Now we have to remove the cam chain tensioner, the cam chain, the camshafts, the valve lifters and shims, measure the shims, and replace the shims with the new correct shims. Begin by using a zip tie or mechanic's wire to secure the cam chain to the frame so it doesn't fall into the crankcase (1). Remove the cam chain tensioner next. Begin by removing the cover bolt on the cam chain tensioner (1). Then insert a 3mm hex key and begin twisting counter clockwise until it can't be turned anymore (2). This will retract the cam chain tensioner back into itself so that it relieves pressure applied to the cam chain. The hex key stays in the tensioner during this process. If it is removed, the tensioner will immediately SNAP back out, so keep the hex key in place! You might need a trimmed or short key to accomplish this (see the thread linked above), because the airbox will be in your way as you try to unfasten the 2 hex bolts that hold the tensioner onto the block, so you have to use a hex key instead of a ratchet + socket. But then the arm of the hex key can't reach over the inserted 3mm hex key unless the 3mm is trimmed down. Also, even when wound back completely, the tensioner will still be in contact with the chain, pressing back on the tensioner. That means as you remove the bolts, they may be under some tension. Take your time and don't force anything. Once you have the tensioner off the block, rest it gently on something soft and use a careful touch with the gasket if you plan on reusing it. REMINDER do NOT move the crankshaft now that the cam chain tensioner has been removed. If you do, the cam chain will skip teeth, moving the crankshaft out of time from the valve train. Mark the chain pins and sprocket teeth with corresponding witness marks (1, 2). Double check all 3 timing marks before you do this. This will be your target when reassembling. Begin removing the cam caps (1). Start with the intake cap, then the exhaust cap. Remove the bolts in a crisscross order working from the outside inwards. Crack the bolt loose then move on to the next diagonally. Then return to the first side and crack that one loose, go diagonally to the other side, then crack the middle bolt on the opposite side from where you started, then get the last one. I removed the bolts evenly, about 1/2 turn at a time for each bolt following that pattern. I'm not sure if that level of detail is necessary, but I can say you definitely need to be even removing the bolts. You want to avoid the cap bending at all. A bent cap will apply uneven pressure to the camshaft journals and ruin the camshaft and thus the engine. Remove the cam chain from the sprockets - make sure it is fastened to the frame so it doesn't fall into the crankcase! Then remove the camshafts and put them on something soft (1, 2). Now the valve lifters are exposed (1). Stuff a rag into the cam chain area to avoid anything falling into the crankcase (2). Identify the valve shims that need to be replaced. Work one valve at a time to avoid messing up which shim came from where. Pull the valve lifter and valve shim out with an extendable magnet (3). It should capture both the lifter and the shim. Be very, very careful that the shim does not fall into the engine - plug everything up! Working one valve at a time, take out the shim from the follower. The shims probably have the measurement laser etched into them, but you should still check with your calipers (1). Record the measurement of the existing shim into your diagram from earlier. Now that you've measured the existing incorrectly sized shim, calculate the new shim size (1,2). Add the hypothetical shim adjustment value calculated before to the measured shim size to get the correct shim size. Round it if necessary to get a size you actually have using the table below or your own judgement. When making this adjustment, bear in mind that you should be adjusting to the higher (looser) end of the specification range. The valve train will wear over time and make the clearance smaller and smaller until you need to do this again. Do yourself a favor and don't adjust the valve clearance to the smaller (tighter) end of the specification. (Measured clearance - Desired clearance) + Installed shim size = new shim size Coat the new valve shim with assembly lube (1) - the red stuff, technically speaking molybdenum disulfide based lubricant. Install the shim in the depression on the valve making absolutely sure the shim is in place square, not crooked (2). You'll feel it click into place. Coat the valve lifter ("bucket") with engine oil and replace over the shim you just installed. Then move on to the next valve that needs attention, repeating the process you just followed. When you're done replacing the valve shims, it's time to replace the camshafts, cam caps, cam chain, and cam chain tensioner. Then you'll check your work by rotating the engine, rechecking the clearances, and if you're satisfied, button it all back up. Start that process by placing the camshafts back where you found them. Begin with the exhaust camshaft (1). Put the timing mark parallel with the cylinder head again. Grab the chain and drape it over the sprocket, matching the witness marks you made on the chain pin and tooth. Two things are important here: 1. You need to make sure the chain is as tight as possible on the exhaust side while draping the chain over the exhaust camshaft sprocket; and 2. do not pull the chain hard enough to move the crankshaft! These are competing goals, so take your time here and be sure the marks all line up. Remember that the cam chain tensioner can only apply tension on one side (the intake side) of the cam chain, so that's why we are pulling the exhaust side tight without moving the crankshaft. Coat the camshaft cap journals and the camshaft journals with assembly lube (1,2 - ignore that the intake cam is in place in this photo!). Coat the cap bolts in engine oil. Replace the exhaust camshaft cap, pressing gently until the cap snaps into place. Be very careful placing the bolts into their holes, taking care not to drop them into the crankcase! Tighten the camshaft cap from the inside out (the opposite of when we removed it), tightening in stages so that it is evenly applied. Be sure your witness marks are aligned! It is very important that the caps are torqued evenly and properly. I finger-tightened them 1/2 turn at a time following the crisscross pattern described in the last post until they were all finger-tight. Then I got the 1/4" torque wrench and continued turning each 1/2 turn until they were all torqued properly. The mistake to be made here is unevenly tightening the caps and warping them slightly. My intake cap was actually slightly warped from the factory, but I compensated by tightening the lifted side an extra full turn before resuming the gradual 1/2 turn process. The cap bolts for both sides are to be torqued to 10Nm or 7.2 lbft. Install the intake camshaft, aligning the markings with the cylinder head edge (1). Again drape the chain over top of the sprocket, aligning your witness marks. Zip tie the chain to the intake sprocket by putting a tie through the holes in the sprocket. This is to ensure the chain doesn't skip as the intake cap and cam chain tensioner are being installed. Do not forget to cut these off when you're done, and when you do, do not let the tie fall into the crankcase! Replace the cam chain tensioner. It should still have the hex key inserted all the way, retracting the tensioner into itself. If it isn't retract it now by inserting a trimmed-down 3mm hex key and turning it counter clockwise until it stops (1). Make sure the gasket is attached with the protruding tab facing upwards and insert it into the block. Replace the 5mm hex bolts and begin tightening them down while the key is still inserted into the tensioner. Tighten them both to 10Nm or 7.2lbft. When you're certain the cap bolts are all torqued properly and that the alignment marks and witness marks are all aligned, go ahead and pull the hex key out. This will snap the actuator forward, tensioning the chain. This is what the zip ties were for. Once it's snapped out, cut the zip ties around the sprockets while holding the tie so they don't fall into the engine. Hopefully your chain didn't skip any teeth. Now that the camshafts are installed, the camshaft caps are installed, the cam chain tensioner is installed, and all of the marks are aligned, we can rotate the engine counter clockwise again. Turn it over maybe 5 times to spread the assembly lube and seat all of the parts. Now remeasure your clearances using the steps you followed earlier. The clearances should be as you calculated them unless you made a mistake measuring the first time. If something is wrong, now is the time to disassemble and make it right. If the clearances are as expected, turn the engine over a few more times until you're satisfied, and replace everything you removed. When replacing the valve cover, having all of the wiring zip tied up to the frame really helps. I had to dab some grease into the channel molded into the valve cover to get the gasket to stay put in the cover while finagling the cover over the head again. If you do this, apply it sparingly and wipe off any excess that smushes out of the sides. You should use gasket sealer to do this but I didn't want the rubber to stick permanently. To be clear, do not put any sealant between the rubber gasket and the cylinder head! That interface should be bone dry and clean. You'll have to push in one end of the cover, then pivot up the other end of the cover up and over the camshaft caps. The crankcase breather hose connection is a real bitch because it interferes with the useless long bolts on the ECU tray above the engine. Wear some gloves. When it's time to tighten the valve cover, tighten in stages to 10Nm or 7.2 lbft. Reinstall the crankshaft end cover making sure the rubber O-ring is clean (10Nm or 7.2lbft), and the timing mark access bolt (15Nm or 11lbft). Install the cam chain cover bolt (7Nm or 5.1lbft). Replace everything else you took off. Remember to twist your gas tank back the way it came, and don't forget to plug in the fuel pump, the air sensor (the plug on the front of the gas tank), the fan motor, and the ignition coils back to their original places. You just saved a few hundred bucks, and more importantly, you've earned your man card. Have a beer (or 4) to celebrate!
  46. 1 point
    This is the maintenance, Tires: both front and back every November Chain and Sprockets: Every November Oil and filter: Every 5k Valve Adjustment: at 50k Brakes: at 65 k That's it.... I don't drive it too hard pretty much 80- 85 on the fwy
  47. 1 point
    I recently installed the FT ECU Flash Tune kit on my 2015 Yamaha FZ07 and was wondering if anyone had any experience with fuel maps. I cannot seem to find the right map that I need on the power commander website. I have a K&N air filter and a M4 slip-on exhaust installed on my bike. Does anyone have a map for that combination or a combination similar to that and are willing to share? Thanks!
  48. 1 point
    The issues I've seen with 17s are check engine lights, codes that don't exist for our bikes, and one guy's bike wouldn't start at all until Andy Palmer bailed him out with an extra ECU he had lying around. To be more specific, you have the ability to do everything with FTecu that 2WDW does. It's actually what they use. You just lack the knowledge and experience to adjust the timing and other tables in the way they do. Or at least I do. What I did and what most people do is load fueling tables from the power commander site, lower the fan temps and disable the fuel cut makes engine braking so pronounced. 2WDW has access to dynos to fine tune other aspects of the tune, mainly timing, not to mention probably better fueling tables than you get from PC.
  49. 1 point
    If you are loading your front suspension in a corner you lighten you the rear tire These bikes have a heavy engine braking so that can cause the suspension to load or if you are braking in the corner. So if you are not going threw a corner properly that could be the issue. If you think that this is the problem one don't brake in the corner and two do let fully off the throttle in a corner. Watch twist of the wrist if you don't understand what I'm saying, watch it any way if you haven't and watch it again if you have lol.
  50. 1 point
    Wow, nice bodywork there!!!! May I ask where did you purchase it?? Considering it, ?
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