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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/18/2020 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    After years of wondering if what they say about the Striple is true, I found one at a reasonable price: 2017 675R with 3200 miles on it and nearly new Michelin Road 5 2CT tires. My only complaint is the fork high speed compression damping is just as bad as the FZ's. And it spins about a thousand rpm higher than the FZ at 60. But that means it's pretty peppy boy! And Oh that exhaust note-a siren song if ever there was one. I can say it is a class above the FZ overall but then again the original price was about three grand more than the FZ. And it is chunkier than the FZ but...
  2. 5 points
  3. 3 points
    With all of them problem is rebound, which is more important than compression. Traxxion one is easy to install yourself. If you not doing it yourself and have to pay somebody you getting really close to cartridges which are huge difference from this kits. Just because you don't race and only ride on street you will still benefit from good suspension.
  4. 2 points
    The budget says use the Traxxion set up or similar, because it will suffice for my street riding, no matter how hard I might ride. I'm no street racer. I just like a brisk pace on the good roads I know and care when I don't know them.
  5. 2 points
  6. 1 point
    It's that time again, and because of all the craziness this year we've decided to do something equally crazy. Almost all of our Mail-In ECU Flashing is ONLY $219.99 with FREE return shipping anywhere in the USA...starting now! Be sure to check out the all new 2wheeldynoworks.com AND don't hesitate to email us at support@2wheeldynoworks.com if you have any questions! We're always happy to help
  7. 1 point
    I haven't removed my tank, but here is what the factory manual says to do to disconnect the fuel hose.
  8. 1 point
    Hi all, FYI my bike is running correctly again. I reinstalled the stock map and the problem went away. I then installed a clean PC map and no issues
  9. 1 point
    They cost around two to four times as much as the drop in valve/spring/damper rod set up. The latter is fine for my street use. In the very remote chance the damper should have an issue it will require tear down and replace. Long shot, more likely to be struck by lightning, but still possible, so why risk the remote if the other option is pretty much proven and lower cost. It seems from some of what I've read, that the riders who use cartridge set ups in their race or track day bikes have used the drop in valve stuff and find it works very well on the street even with the fixed damping settings. Pretty much sums it up. Purely financial and psychological.
  10. 1 point
    Alright. Everything installed baby Tst blinkers Tst sliders 2wheeldyno tune CarbonSmith/MWR pod filter Sc Project CRT Colorfluster inversion and blue Tst integrated light R6 throttle tube
  11. 1 point
    Squeeze the tabs inward, try to push the fitting forward and then backwards. Slightly twisting left and right as you pull helps. They are a snug fit. Ed
  12. 1 point
    So which is a better overall bike? A stock striple or an FZ/MT07 with the price difference in upgrades? Hmmmm.....
  13. 1 point
    I believe a stock bike running a stock tune is perfectly safe. According to manufacturers who sell and dyno aftermarket exhausts, they seem to be worth 2-3hp on average. There's that much fluctuation between dyno pulls without making any changes. Since there's no real performance to be gained with aftermarket pipes it seems likely to me that there are no real changes to the amount of total air flow through the engine. I'm not anti- aftermarket exhaust. I have one simply because I liked the looks and sound of it. I'm not guaranteeing everyone can run any aftermarket exhaust without looking at the tune. Judging from the conversations regarding exhausts available for this particular bike, the guys with tuned ecu's typically take a big hit on fuel mileage, and the numbers show there just isn't any extra power to be had. It's hard for me to preach that folks MUST flash ecu's to go along with their exhausts because of that. That's all I'm saying. Every system can differ and needs to be looked at on a case by case basis. There may be a system out there that really pumps up the power and really needs more fuel to accommodate it. I haven't seen that, but that doesn't mean it can't exist.
  14. 1 point
    The carbonsmith/MWR racing intake appears to be intended for race bikes that spend most of their time in the upper rev range. I think I would need to see a dyno chart before putting it on a road bike that spends most of its time in the midrange revs.
  15. 1 point
    YSS makes solid budget suspension parts. Really popular in the small bore scooter community in Asian countries. Would be be on part with a cartridge kit? No. Would be it be an upgrade over stock? Sure. Its just an emulator kit, so if you want to change compression you basically pull the fork apart and fish out the emulator...which to be honest kind of sucks. For a road bike though? Sure. Here is an explanation from racetech on how their emulators work. Im sure the YSS solution is similar. https://www.racetech.com/page/title/Emulators-How They Work Damper rod forks are really simple to work on. If you can follow instructions you can install them without issues, but might need to buy a couple tools.
  16. 1 point
    So here's my 2 cents. Granted I'm not a suspension guru or even knowledgeable for that matter but I have spent countless hours fooling with suspension. No one in the history of motorcycling has ever riden their bike w/o being on it. What I mean is static sag is great in a perfect world but it's not the end-all. If you have zero static sag but can get around an inch and a half or so rider sag you're in the ball park. If you can't get enough rider sag then your spring is too stiff. It's that simple in basic terms. Now, having said that: You do need a fair amount of sag for the suspension to function properly, to keep the tires in contact with the road surface, to give a comfortable ride and to let the motorcycle perform well over rough terrain and on the brakes/gas. As to your mention of "pogo". Pogo is more a result of uncontrolled or poorly damped suspension than it is related to sag. (assuming both ends have the proper spring rate) If the front forks have proper compression damping they don't over-dive on the brakes. In like fashion if the rear shock has proper rebound damping it doesn't over-rise on the brakes. The converse is true on the gas; rebound on the front, compression on the rear. A properly set up suspension will work in unison, feel settled and composed over rough ground, feel like it squats rather than pitch or rock when hard on the brakes and rise not rock on the gas. The bike will also handle better, hold a line in corners, change direction easilly to avoid hazards and tighten or relax it's line in turns effortlessly and w/o drama. I don't know if any of this makes sense but there it is. BLR
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