Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/14/2021 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    Kudos to our friend @D.A. who continues recovery from nasty high side practicing knee dragging, he modified his existing vacuum lines on an MT-07 and I'm just repeating his success. This mod will build an entirely new vacuum setup for XSR700 / MT-07 instead of modifying the existing parts, so you can keep the OEM parts for a backup or a dog chew toy or whatever. Working this mod I was throwing "check engine" light, suspected vacuum leaks but unfortunately it simply is the Yamaha sensor begins to behave abnormally if the vacuum lines are modified too long. Air pressure sensor starts sending unexpected responses to ECU during engine braking/closed throttle decel, flashes the "check engine" light for a second or so around 3K rpms. If you're thinking to extend the lines all the way to under your seat, best give it up. So this mod is as all mods should be, simple, mildly invasive, and delivers a "plug and play" hookup to synchronize the throttle bodies with a manometer (like CarbTune). Nothing has to be perfect, but it does have to be correct. To see how @D.A. did it modifying the existing vacuum line, read this thread. Read what he did, check what I did, and then just do it your way, it will work out. Disclaimer - Like all my mods, this will kill you and it causes athletes foot fungus, and you don't want that Why this mod? - You would not ask, if you have tried to synch your throttle bodies (hookup CarbTune or other manometer). Stock vacuum lines are tough to get at. Best to just make easy access vacuum lines with rubber caps - so you can pull the caps off and slip on your manometer lines and get those throttle bodies in synch without removing the fuel tank or turning sideways, backwards, upside down, or whatever is in the book. Parts for this mod HPS vacuum hose 3.5mm here Vacuum hose clamps 8mm here Straight barbs 4mm here Tee barbs 4mm here Wire spring hose clamps here Bung caps 4mm here MotionPropilot screwdriver here small wire ties (cable ties) 3/8" (or similar) thin wall automotive rubber hose (to make a heat protective jacket around new vacuum line) Get the bike ready for the mod (XSR700) Remove the side covers and the side cover "backing plates". Also to get some room to remove the old vacuum line and plug in the new vacuum line part we build, disconnect the acceleration throttle cable at the throttle body. It will give your fingers some room to get in there on Intake #1 (left side of the bike). Building the new vacuum hose for Intake #1 We will replace Yamaha's vacuum hose that runs from the air pressure sensor (above cylinder #1 valve cover) to the throttle body #1 manifold nipple (left side of bike). Here's the part we will build It's all made from the hps vacuum hose. Vacuum hose clamps are used to connect assembly to the air pressure sensor at the top of pic, and to the throttle body nipple at the bottom of pic. The "Tee" is our modification, that let's us add a new line for connecting throttle body synchronization tool to Intake #1. Note the "Tee" uses small wire ties (cable ties), because they tell the mechanic to "leave this connection alone!". We provide clamps where technicians can connect/disconnect, but we don't want anyone to disassemble our mod. Add a heat jacket Take a piece of 3/8" thin walled rubber hose, cut it 90mm length, then slit it all the way so you can open it up like a jacket and wrap it around the hps vacuum setup That's enough to protect hps from cylinder heat, hps doesn't really need it but let's do this the correct way. If the jacket is loose, you can put a zip tie around the whole thing just under the "Tee", and don't make it tight - you don't want to restrict the hps vacuum line inside in any way. You are ready to install just as it appears in the pic, the top plugs into the air pressure sensor, the bottom into intake #1 manifold nipple, and once installed you will see the easy access tube is sitting nicely hidden behind your side cover so nobody will jerk with it, but you know it's there when you need it. To remove the OEM vacuum hose, and to install the new part, use some needle nose pliers, but be kind to your product, don't do any damage to your part or the bike nipple and sensor when you plug it all together. Here is what it looks like once installed, (the side cover (and backing plate) were removed to do the install of the vacuum hose). The hose is nicely waiting for you to remove the bung cap, and plug into your manometer. And once you put the side cover and backing plate on, nobody will know it's there and mess with your bike. Next step, build a new vacuum hose for Intake #2 (right side of bike), and it's just a simple line with a bung cap on the end. Building the new vacuum hose for Intake #2 Let's work cylinder #2 on the right side of bike, and build a line to give it the same kind of easy access. Just follow the pic below Ya, that was tough work, I know. This is all you need for #2 intake vacuum hose. On the #2 intake manifold there is a nipple just like the nipple on #1 intake, only it just has a simple blanking cap and wire clamp closing it off. Remove that stock OEM blanking cap from the #2 intake manifold and plug your new 160 mm hps hose (you built from the pic above) into the manifold nipple (it's tough, tight to get in there, but you only have to do this once, that's the whole point of this mod). Bring the other end of the new vacuum line with the bung for connecting synchronizing tools up and out where the right side cover will hide it from folks you don't want messing with it. Very easy to just tuck up under the side cover mounting bracket. This right side vacuum hose is 160mm for a reason - that's the length of the vacuum draw on the Intake #1 hose, we want the lengths to be essentially the same. That's it. Now let's test our manometer to see if it is accurate, and then hook it up to synchronize throttle bodies. Build a test loop for manometer Assemble the loop you see below We use this setup to connect the single line at top to the Intake #2 easy access bung, and then the "two" lines below can be connected to two of your manometer tubes. If the manometer is accurate, the two tubes will have the exact same reading when you start the bike for a test. Go ahead and plug it into the bike Intake #2 easy access and to your manometer (I have a CarbTune shown below). Start your bike and you can check the manometer, are the readings the same? They better be, because both the manometer tubes are connected to a single vacuum source, our Intake #2 easy access bung. If your manometer is good, you are ready to check if the throttle bodies are in synch. From here on in, just follow the instructions on your manometer for how to set it up. You have an easy access vacuum bung on each side of the bike for Intake #1 and Intake #2. Here is my CarbTune hooked up to both intakes and a synch test underway And that's why we do this stuff. To make it easy, to check and know that the bike is correct, not perfect, but correct. If you have to adjust, MotionPro has a 110 degree "air/pilot screw driver" that makes it real easy to adjust Intake #2 to match #1. No removing the gas tank, we made this too easy. Remember this, we always adjust Intake #2 to match Intake #1 (don't mess/change Intake #1 for synching). Changing the idle rpms on the bike is a different banana. All for now, I will update if anybody needs more details of what we are about on this mod.
  2. 4 points
    You are not going to hurt anything by not running a tune, but you will be very happy at how much better your bike will run with one. I would recommend the @2wheeldynoworks ECU flash as the easiest option. I have been running their tune for a few years now on with a stock exhaust and have been very happy.
  3. 3 points
    Universe has a way of delivering, I've been exploring ideas for where/what 3D print job could hide an on-board tire patch kit w/ CO2. Then got that slippy feelz on left turn excelerates, pull over and check rear axle for bearing compression first, all good, then do the rear tire roll, and there she is, the universe delivering me a roadside test of my on-board patch kit. Key tools in my kit NAPA tire repair tools here Tire rubber cement here DoubleTough Inflator here 6 x CO2 16 gram cans here and you know how to find everything else Disclaimer - this will kill you and it causes athletes foot fungus You can jump to the bottom if all you want to know what I'm adding to the kit, for next time, still keeping it minimalist. Now I'm 0nly a couple miles from my garage, so I pull it in home to do the patch, but I'm going to play I have nothing on hand, except my on-board patch kit (the black tape box is the CO2 16 gram cans). Plus like always, I got a Kershaw knife and pocket flashlight. What, no flashlight? You want to think that out. I got two tools avail in kit, to extract whatever the problem is. Preserve the air in the tire, by being quick about it when you don't have something plugging the hole. When I pull that nail, I'm going to immediately insert the tip of the patch file. Why is obvious, CO2 will take you from 15lbs to 30lbs easier than zer0 to whatever. Because I'm in garage, we'll just take a look at the air pressure before I pull the nail. Let's go with the road side fix. Pull the nail with the mini-side cutters, and insert that file to clean up the injury. But first, step back and just look at the angle and particulars of the injury, is the angle shown by the file acceptable to rope-patch, or is it a "cut" like? This is just so you know if you will run the rope a bit, before replacing rubber, a cut gets new tire asap, reasonable straight holes, not so much. Guess it's a rope-keeper, I'll run that for a while cause I'm old and senile. OK, before you go tearing away with the file, I think about NOT rounding out the hole inside or outside. I've seen a vid on Revzilla think, that they run the file in then angle all "around the clock" while filing. Want to guess what that does? Increases the injury, size of hole gets opened even larger inside and outside. Let's run the file straight in and out to keep the damn problem small, hey? First I wet that file, and I repeat wetting the file, with rubber cement. While I'm cleaning the injury the file is already delivering a good dose of rubber cement thru-out the injury. Always good to have cement already in the hole, before you plug it with rope. With the file still plug'in the hole to keep the party atmosphere inside, put a rope plug in the insertion tool, about 35%. We are going to push the rope plug all the way inside tire, until about 35% is still sticking out. Note, on a really bad emergency (size of injury) I will put the rope plug in the tool at 50%, and when I insert it I will leave both ends of rope sticking out of the injury a small bit, it's like running two ropes in at once to plug a canyon. Cover that rope with cement, I mean give it a good bath. We're trying to get wet rubber cement inside with the rope, cement makes it easy to insert rope tool with that tiny handle tool roadside, without cement you would wish for gloves and/or a "T" handle tool. OK, pull the file tool out of the hole and use the rope insertion tool, and give it to it where she needs fixed, insert (slowly so you don't go too far) until the single end of the rope remains outside about an inch, turn the handle a half turn and pull insertion tool out of the wound, that rope will stay right there. Messy, overdone, but you want to get home don't you? Grab some leaves on side of road and wipe that excess off a little if you want, you don't want to slip on that pulling back on the road. So how much air did we preserve? Well I did the switching so quick, I had almost 30 lbs of air left in tire. Think about what good news that is. When you patch roadside, be quick about the tool change, and you may have very little left to do as far as air goes. To test my inflator tool, I let the air down to 15 lbs, so we lost half our air doing the patch. Open up the black tape closed package in our kit, it's got 6 CO2 16 gram canisters ready to load. Get the inflator tool from the kit, close the yellow valve all the way, then screw the inflator onto our tire valve stem, quickly to not loose air. Get out the first CO2 and screw it in (don't bend your valve stem all over the place, be kind to that rubber thingy will ya?). Now open the yellow valve and you hear the rush and see the canister freeze outside as the pressure is released into the tire. Don't be too quick to assume it's done, those things seem to "freeze up" and fail to release all the available "equalizing" pressure into the tire. I give each one a minute, you see the bottle frost outside on the CO2 canister melt away, then CLOSE the yellow valve before you remove the empty CO2 and screw in a new CO2 canister. OK, just repeat, and you are guessing how many canisters you want to add, because this inflator doesn't have any convenient way to measure tire pressure without removing it. I started with the 15 lbs for the test, I ran 5 canisters into the tire assuming I could get a best case of about 5 lbs or air increase per canister, here's what I got. Not too shabby, from a start of 15lbs to 41 lbs with 5 canisters, better than I expected. You can run it a bit hot like this if you want, or think your patch is weak/or may not seal, straight to nearest gas station or friend's house. If you feel good about it, let the pressure down to what you run and your call about keep riding or go home and check everything over twice. Last step, use the mini side cutters and cut that extra rope hanging outside, trim it down close but NOT overdone. It's the last step, like in Africa after they kill an elephant, nobody starts to cut it up and eat until the zombie witch doctor cuts the tail off. To eat an elephant, before the tail is cut off, it like eating dinner without saying grace - a faux pas Hit's and Mizzes I can recommend this inflator, the CO2 works fine, the small file & insertion tool, and my small side cutters. What I did not have that I really needed was these things (1) my cheapo size of a 50 cent piece tire pressure gauge, I was riding without a pressure gauge, idiot (2) put a couple pair of painters plastic gloves in your kit, kind that are skin tight (3) two zip lock bags, use one on ground for your "work area" and other to put all dirty kit stuff in to take home That's it. If your not carrying a tire patch kit, knife, and flashlight, you are being a "cool hand luke" and the universe is going to one day "get your mind right", because there has clearly been a "failure to communicate". Don't be luke ... cool hand luke. All I need now is someone to 3D print a clever way to carry this minimalist kit, it's just a non-descript small black bag on pillion with a cargo net.
  4. 3 points
    Grew up on dirty bikes. Once comfortable on them I found one foot or the other at a time was plenty. One thing I did learn tho was I had more fun cowtrailing and recreating on the less focused bikes like Honda XR's and Yamaha TT's/TTR's. While the more focused bikes were the bomb on tracks and racing they weren't as fun just fartin around in vacant lots, trails and gravel pits. Have fun!
  5. 3 points
    Been a long time since I placed my shadow here. Wanted to return and say thanks to Paul @bellissimoto for hooking me up with some K-Techs. Great service, Awesome support, FAST delivery just got the suspenders today. Once again Bellissimoto comes through. Now I need to really start that 916 restore. Thank you again. R1-Limited aka JohnL
  6. 2 points
    here is my 2019 ice fluo I use it for commuting when its not raining and for weekend blats in the countryside. i will hopefully pop over to Europe for some trips when this covid nonsense is over. still a few bits in the pipeline but this is where i am so far stu
  7. 2 points
    I took out the guts of a small 12v compressor and carry that in the tail bag, along with a plug kit.
  8. 2 points
    I'm constantly surprised at how two guys can love two totally different bikes to do the same job. It's all personal preference. I love my KTM 520 exc. It's 20 years old now, but still "current". The RFS bikes are built way better, and the engines more durable, than the Honda XR bikes. I've owned plenty XRs. It's RFS for me here out. The 520 has excellent suspension, but can headshake in 5th/6th gear pinned if the ground is rutted. Tons of grunt directly off idle. Power wheelies in 5th gear at half throttle with no body english. Makes my FZ07 feel downright lazy. One of my tightest buddies foregoes his WR450 for his YZ250...in the woods! His YZ has such a small, violent window of power that I don't like even ripping it around our turn course. I just knew he'd hate that bike in the tight woods. Nope! He excels on that bike and I'm watching his confidence and abilities grow fast. I don't know how he does it. I'm pretty fast in the woods and can't imagine using his MX inspired two stroke for that, but he loves it. So I generally decided I won't recommend bikes anymore . If budget allows, and reach to the ground is an issue, Beta's Crosstrainer and KTM's Freeride are fantastic bikes with comfortable, capable suspension that are designed specifically to be a little lighter, a little smaller, a little less wild and a good bit more flexible than the other purpose driven bikes. They're still solid, modern platforms vs putting around on a farm bike. But, end of the day, there's no such thing as a bad dirt bike. Dirt bikes are the greatest show on earth. Anything that gets you in the woods is a good bike
  9. 2 points
    I did D.A.'s mod with the short lines as he documented, and have had no unusual results... just easy access to vacuum for syncing.
  10. 2 points
    that brilliant idea, is all @D.A., but i'm not going to say he's full of it hahaha
  11. 1 point
    Lots on information on your options for fork and shock upgrades on the main threads in the suspension forum. Correct springs from sonic springs and heavier weight oil is the most economic option for your front end. Use the racetech website to find out what springs will work for you. Rear shock unfortunately is replace with an aftermarket shock. I’m your same weight and tried the springs and oil first. Helped a great deal but in the end I had my forks rebuild by forks by Matt and got a nitron rear shock. All comes down to what your using the bike for and your budget.
  12. 1 point
    Replaced my bars with the KTM enduro high bend and thought I would share. Seen where the Carmichael bend was a popular bar but it had too much sweep for me and not enough rise, plus my dirt bike and dual sport have the same KTM enduro high bar on them. Here are some pics since I couldn't find any with this bar. This is an excellent bar IMO if you're looking for a new handlebar.
  13. 1 point
    I have thought about a dirt bike for the past couple years. I have never ridden a dirt bike. I grew up with 3 wheelers and 4 wheelers. I'm looking for a bike with good suspension as I have some jumps on my property. I also have 15 acres of woods for trail riding. My latest choice is a Yamaha YZ125X, but at 5 foot 8 inches I can't easily touch with both feet. How important is that for trail riding? Thanks for any input.
  14. 1 point
    +1 for 2wheeldynoworks. many of us here have used them without issue. If you bother to check the home page of this forum you'll find an entire section devoted to them. https://fz07.org/forum/52/2-wheel-dynoworks-mail-in-ecu-flashing/
  15. 1 point
    I can speak from personal experience that @2wheeldynoworks is great. They are also a supporting benefit on the forum, which is great. I have heard good things about hordpower but have no personal experience with them. I have no knowledge about the other three.
  16. 1 point
    I was interested enough in "proving" it was a vacuum leak had me working this when I could for about 3 days, doing all the usual stuff, I switched out every component, every clamp, every hose piece, epoxy sealant on every connection, ++. Then it dawned on me, just take an 18" piece of cheaper Autozone 5/32" vacuum hose, plug one end in sensor and other into intake, and keep the rest away from hot motor. That piece raised the ecu "check engine" light. I took out my pocket knife and cut it to about 8", plugged it back in, and rode bike rest of day with zero problems. Found this on R6 forum talking about air pressure sensor. ""Measure intake vacuum. Mostly use to tune deceleration and on/off throttle. When I map with the PCV I like to run the Autotune with the psi map for a bit. Smooth things out in the cruising range a lot."" If the vacuum hose is too long, when you engine brake/decel with throttle closed, you get the "check engine" light for about 1 long second as you engine brake thru 3K rpms. If you hold the throttle ever so slightly open while engine braking, you get no "check engine" light. It's the sensor, strangely affected, it's measure of pressure drop/change by a long hose on the "Tee", even though the sensor direct hose path from sensor to intake nipple is still present and same length as stock (imo).
  17. 1 point
    I would try disconnecting the battery for a while. Perhaps the ECU not having power for a few minutes might reset it.
  18. 1 point
    I really don't want to be "that guy", but this is why you don't buy eBay sliders.... You really do get what you pay for in sliders. A poorly designed slider can actually do more damage in a crash, than having no slider at all. Spend a couple extra dollar$, and get something with some solid testing/engineering behind it. Anything from TST, Woodcraft, or even T-Rex is very good stuff. T-rex is like the "new-kid-in-town", but I run some of their stuff on all three of my track bikes-
  19. 1 point
    Roger that, thanks for the input!
  20. 1 point
    Here's another page from the good book, I noticed in another thread you messed around with an oil fill issue. There's a good chance these issues are related. Take your time and carefully recheck your work. There is a good chance something was overlooked or discomfukulated during the process. Check all the fuses (there are 2 fuse blocks and a single under the seat) and the oil pressure sending unit on the lower right front of the motor (see diagram). Then follow the instructions to check the operation of the sending unit and dash light. It's hard to diagnose from afar w/o getting hands on the unit, sorry. Good luck.
  21. 1 point
    Is the light staying on? Blink? Here, this might help.
  22. 1 point
    I ordered my chain and sprocket from @pgeldz at Bellisimoto. He is great to deal with and I got a nice discount on the parts. Send him a pm, he responded quickly.
  23. 1 point
    Following this thread as I think I have similar suspension goals...although I am a little more street focused as I really don't know if I will ever get to the track. Track requirements are a full 1 or 2 piece suit and for the limited time I would ever get to the track it might be just is too much $$.
  24. 1 point
    Not sure what your budget is, but you should consider the Traxxion Dynamics AR-25 kit. I did the Racetech emulator route a few years ago. They make a decent product, but don't really support it much. Racetech sells you a bunch of generic parts, and then they give you a "baseline" to start from. They give you a "one-time access code" to set it up, after that- your kind of on your own. I was reasonably happy with my Racetech set set up, but I recently upgraded the Traxxion Dynamics AR-25 kit. I could tell right away, it was a much better set-up (in terms of quality parts)... I haven't hit the track with it yet, but I'm VERY optimistic!!! Also, You can lower the front end 10mm, without upsetting the chassis. I did mine, and I've taken corners @ 130 mph on-track, and never upset the high speed stability- EVER.... As far as Dave Moss tuning videos, take them with a grain of salt. I think he's great a marketing his services on YouTube. My suspension tuner has debunked nearly everything Dave Moss suggests about the front end on the FZ/MT-07. I'm not a fan of Dave Moss. He seems to have a cult-like following, which I don't really understand? BTW: if you do go the Racetech route, do NOT forget to order the "Emulator Adapters" for the dampener rods... I had my forks completely disassembled, before I realized I needed the adapters.... Good luck-
  25. 1 point
    DISCLAIMER This was a summary of my experience following the shop manual. You should know that this is a procedure with major potential for damaging your engine if you do this incorrectly. What follows is intended to supplement the shop manual, not replace it. The shop manual is absolutely required for this service as it provides exact steps necessary and corresponding torque values for fasteners and heaps of other useful bits of information and helpful diagrams. Perform this service at your own risk. You should be familiar with taking apart your bike for other service before you begin. You should have a firm grasp of how an engine's valve train works to understand what you are doing and why. Tools/supplies you'll need: Yamaha's FZ07 factory service manual 7.48mm OD valve shims - buy a kit or exchange shims with a dealer/shop I used a Hot Cams HCSHIM01 kit. Amazon will say it doesn't fit an FZ07 and they are wrong. 1/4" drive torque wrench 3mm trimmed hex key for cam chain tensioner 2.5mm - 14mm hex drivers or keys 8mm - 13mm box wrenches 8mm - 19mm sockets 14mm deep socket for spark plugs 19mm socket for crankshaft nut (same size as front axle) 1/4" socket extensions, wobble Extendable magnet to pull spark plugs New cam chain tensioner gasket (if you want) New valve cover rubber gasket (if you damage the original one) Feeler gauges Vessel to contain drained coolant Big ass pliers for the coolant pipe spring clamps Philips screwdriver for worm hose clamps Plastic zip ties Air compressor to blow spark plug wells clean (optional) Funnel (optional if you're brave) Gasket sealant or grease (optional if your gasket behaves and stays in place) Procedure Drain coolant. Allow the coolant to drain while you complete the next steps. Remove plastic body work. Remove gas tank fasteners (1, 2), breather hoses (3), and front electronic sensor connection (4) Lift up gas tank to remove fuel pump connector (1), then lift and rotate gas tank counter clockwise and rest on cardboard on the frame. Rest the aluminum bendy tabs back where they were fastened, and the black steel portion on the cardboard. Whatever direction you twist it, be sure that when you replace it, you twist the opposite direction. You could remove the tank if you'd like but that requires removing the fuel line from the tank. Now that the coolant has drained, replace the drain bolt and begin removing the radiator. Remove the fairings, radiator guard (if equipped), and the single bolt on the throttle side (1). The radiator hands on 1 rubber grommet on the clutch side, 1 rubber grommet near the triple tree, and the single bolt you just removed. There's an inlet hose on the top clutch side, an outlet hose on the bottom throttle side, and the small overflow line near the cap. Remove each of these lines however you wish - I removed the bike-side connections for each hose, not the radiator-side, but it doesn't really matter. Remove the horn's electrical connections (2), and the fan motor connection (3). The radiator probably has some residual coolant left, be ready with paper towels. Gently place it on some cardboard with the hose connections facing up (4). Remove the clutch cable guide (1). You're now ready to remove the spark plugs. Unplug each coil (1) and tape each plug to the frame so you remember which side is which! Pull the coils by hand only. Then pull the plugs using a 14mm deep socket and wobble extensions. When removing the coils and plugs, mark on a big sheet of cardboard which coil is which (2) so you know it all goes back together when it was removed from. If you're doing this service, I hope you've removed them once already and left yourself some silicone grease or similar on the rubber boot seal so they're not so hard to remove. Remove the crankcase breather hose (1). Remove valve cover bolts in a criss-cross pattern (1). Zip tie various wiring harnesses, cables, etc out of the way before you begin. Then wiggle and lever out the valve cover without damaging the rubber gasket (2). Place the valve cover gasket side up on cardboard. Remove the crankshaft end cover with 14mm hex driver, and remove riming mark access cover (1). Use 19mm socket and turn crankshaft counter clockwise until timing mark on flywheel aligns with mark on crankcase cover (2), and marks on intake cam sprocket (3) and exhaust cam sprocket (4) all align. Your engine should now be in the service position for valve check and adjustment. DO NOT TURN THE CRANKSHAFT ONCE YOU REMOVE THE CAM CHAIN TENSIONER. THIS WILL MISTIME YOUR ENGINE AND YOU WILL HAVE TO RETIME IT. By having 4 known reference points, the engine can be timed correctly if you make a mistake - ask me how I know. The reference points are, in order of verification: 1. timing mark on flywheel/crankcase (crankshaft position), 2. piston #1 (clutch side) at TDC of compression stroke (you can place something gently through spark plug hole to rest on the piston crown and turn the engine to visualize the peak of travel when the timing mark is aligned incidating TDC of compression stroke), 3. the intake camshaft timing alignment mark (parallel with head edge), 4. the exhaust camshaft alignment mark (parallel with head edge). Now you're ready to begin checking the valve clearances. If you haven't done so already, plug the spark plug holes and the coolant output hose (1). Note that the lobes of piston #1 (clutch side) are not engaging the valve lifters ("buckets") at all. Slide the feeler gauges between the buckets and the cam lobes to measure the clearance (2). Intake should be 0.11-0.20 mm, exhaust should be 0.24-0.30 mm. You're looking for something between "no-go" and "slides right through". The gauge should kind of "stick" in-between the two. You'll "feel" what I mean - that's why they're called feeler gauges. Begin writing these down on a diagram that is explicitly clear which piston is which, and which valve is which. When you're sure of the measurement, rotate the crankshaft 270 degrees counter clockwise and measure piston #2. You could use one of those paper angle wheels or if you're like me you don't have one. I just very gently placed a long hex wrench through the spark plug hole onto the piston crown and rotated what felt like 270 degrees until I saw the piston's peak of travel visualized by the hex wrench beginning to go back down (3). If you do this do not let the angle of the hex wrench catch underneath the camshaft caps! Measure the clearance just as piston #1 and record. If your valves are all within spec, you're done! Put everything back together by following the steps in reverse order. If not, proceed to adjustment.
  26. 1 point
    Wow, the strength of emotions with regard to the fueling is pretty funny. I am coming up on the one year anniversary of not only my FZ but my first time on a motorcycle or dirtbike in any real capacity. Coming from sports cars, the power isn't too special outright, but the delivery is definitely unique. Because of that, I just knew I'd have to adapt to the bike anyways. It seems the strongest emotions are held by people who want the bike to adapt to them, and new riders just won't have that bias, or, rather, they shouldn't. Yes, the choppiness is terribly annoying, but dangerous? Not at all. As with any bike or car or whatever, give it the throttle it needs. How much is needed varies on every single motorized thing, so adapt. Back to the gear topic, better mirrors should be included in that category. I felt completely blind to what was going on around me with the stock mirrors - no matter how I adjusted them I could only see my own arms. Turning my head 110* on the interstate produced a decent change in the wind, and it meant I was not looking ahead, so changing to CRGs made me soooo much more aware of my environment. In rush hour DC traffic, this has been huge for my comfort level.
  27. 1 point
    I'll concede that there are better beginner bikes for sure. I didn't mean to suggest the opposite of that. I suppose I'm just trying to voice my opposition to the tired hyperbole that modern motorcycles that don't have scooter engines in them are uncontrollable wheelie death machines. "I tell people that it's not a function of can the FZ wheelie, but much more a function of how good you are with the rear brake to bring the front end down especially in 1st gear." This is a GROSS exaggeration. Nowhere within the realm of reality. First gear will only come up if you're dangerously careless with the throttle - speaking of throttle, the stock tube breaks your wrist before you can open it all the way. Even aggressive roll on's in first won't yield wheelies if you're not 6'3 and or 220+ sitting at the very back of the bike. You essentially can't wheelie in 2nd gear without chopping the throttle first or clutching it. You MIGHT be able to get the front end up ever so slightly or get it light, but it's nowhere near the "OMG IM LOOPING IT" surprise you guys are trying to make it out to be. Too much bike for beginners? Maybe the ones with zero prior riding experience. Constant wheelies and in danger of looping it if your foot isn't on the rear brake 100% of the time? come on.. don't be silly.
This leaderboard is set to Denver/GMT-06:00
×

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.