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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/11/2022 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    A spray can of WD-40 is $12 for 14.4 ounces at wally-world, that math means we're paying $106 a gallon. But you can buy a 1 gallon tin can of WD-40 for $23 on the same wally-worldz webpage. Hmm, 1 gallon for $23, I'm old, that's enough for the rest of my life and then some if I just go back to sniffing glue. Only thing that needs done is to put WD-40 in a spray bottle with a pump and you saved big $$$$$. So reuse an empty spray bottle you already have - it needs a good pump, adjustable nozzle, and smaller is better. Or do this below because no reason: That's a Performance Tool 6 oz Pistol Oiler part #W54265. Then unscrew the flexible spout that comes with the pistol oiler, and make this devil instead. Just cut the WD-40 "flexible straw" off an empty can (about 6 inches long), and you probably have the rubber/silicone lines in your tool box, or bedroom floor, or where-ever you use it the most. Stick an awl inside the cut end of the flexible straw to open it up fully again (cutting crushes it closed part way). Force most of that flexible straw down inside of the two lines will help it seal, and leave a couple inches outside for directional spraying. Warning, WD-40 leaks out of my reused spray bottle and out of this oil can - it's low surface tension I think is the correct way to say it, makes it migrate and coat everything, especially metallic. Or some kind of dielectric buggery at work here. The pistol oiler only shoots a small amount of WD-40 for each trigger pull - and that's what I wanted (like a small dose given to a keyhole on the garage door that is rusting up inside). It's nothing like a full trigger pull of an old fashioned 30W oil can - that would be way, way too much. At these savings, go buy one last can of WD-40 with the "flexible straw" (if you don't already have one) and cut the straw off when you get home - (you can still spray and use that handicapped can of the stuff till it's gone without the straw).
  2. 2 points
    @Triple Jim Starting has definitely improved! The hot start hesitation has gone away, and cold starts are easier (I don't have to hold down the starter as long before the engine catches). The jury is still out on fuel economy - I've only put a few miles on since I got the motor back together, so I'll have to report back. But based on the few miles so far... it looks like the source of the problem may largely be in my right wrist. @Pursuvant I have nothing but praise for your How To!! Any time I'm working on valves, there's always a moment when I've got everything back together, but there's 5% of my brain that still wonders whether I got the timing right, and worries that I'm about to crash a valve into a piston as I turn the engine over. I turned to your guide to check and double check my work, and it gave me confidence that I wasn't going to blow up my motor upon startup. I especially appreciate that you included a count of the links on the cam chain between the intake and exhaust sprockets! Thanks again for the effort you put into the writeup!
  3. 1 point
    I just wanted to share a few tips and lessons learned based on my experience adjusting my valves last weekend. First of all, I want to thank Pursuvant and noodles for your excellent How-To's -- thanks for the time and effort you put into those writeups! Draining the Radiator Some of you may be wondering, like I was, whether its possible to check your valves without draining the coolant and removing the radiator. While it may be possible, it's probably not worth it. There's not a lot of room to work in there. I highly advise anyone doing this job to invest the effort up front to drain the coolant, fully remove the radiator, clutch cable bracket on the right side of the frame near the radiator, and disconnect any electrical connectors required to relocate as much of the wiring harness out of the way as possible. It's well worth the effort. Valve Cover Woes The actual valve clearance inspection and adjustment was pretty straightforward, but I ended up spending way too much time trying to maneuver the darn valve cover and gasket back in place. After numerous failed attempts, I found that it was impossible to line up the gasket with the spark plug holes without first "gluing" the gasket to the valve cover (I used Permatex - Yamabond, Hondabond or just about any gasket maker will work). Legit Service Interval?/Warning Signs With 13,000 miles on the clock, I discovered that the two right exhaust valves were concerningly tight (0.15). The two left exhaust valves were at the lower limit (0.25). All of the intake valves were approaching the lower limit (0.13). To be fair, I suspect that my bike was not exactly lovingly cared for by its previous owner, but I was still pretty surprised to see the clearances this tight on a bike that's only half way to the service interval of 26,600 miles. The reason I decided to check my valves was because I noticed my gas mileage was terrible (35 mpg on average). I'd also noticed that the bike would start on the 1st or 2nd crank when cold, but I'd have to crank and crank with the throttle cracked open whenever the engine was hot. All of that is to say - I'm a tiny bit skeptical of Yamaha's claimed 26,600 mi valve service interval. I'm glad I checked mine when I did. If you've noticed your fuel economy is in the dumps, if your bike is having trouble starting, if it's running rough, or if you generally like to hang out on your rev limiter, you might want to check your valves even if you're not at the service interval yet.
  4. 1 point
    Still waiting on my TOCE Razor Tip exhaust system to arrive, but I got my first YouTube ride up. Literally just a gentle ride around local roads, but I'm learning to edit, mix audio, and color correct. First ride video!
  5. 1 point
    Ok this is not what you think. I have my MT and I stunt ride it In parking lots. And on the back roads here in South Korea. My problem are as Follows besides myself I know of three other stunt riders in this country that are ok. Meaning they can find balance point and do some footbrake work not your typical power wheelie yahoos which most of these clowns are. I have looked high and low for any information on the subject of oil Starvation if it is an issue or any parts I can add to correct said issue I can find nothing. so let me get a Headstart here running away from you as you all get the pitchforks and the torches ready OK here it is I overfill by 300-500cc of oil just in case oil starvation is an issue and after recently having my oil pan off I looked up there and noticed That it is possible to make a divider plate to keep the oil or some of it in the pan closest to the pick up instead of it all going into the transmission when you are at 12 o’clock or 1 o’clock or sometimes 2 o’clock what are your thoughts and opinions. and or possible fixes. Is Oil starvation a actual issue I don’t know if it is because I could not find any bearing material when doing oil Changes. And due to the hard nature of me riding I change my oil once a month at the minimum and not with cheap shet. Here I will attach a picture of the inside of the pan looks like I am going to try to see if I can get a plate made what do you guys think
  6. 1 point
    Just found this I think he starved the engine, rev bombing at 12,oclock
  7. 1 point
    There's a company called "Twinstunts" who specialize in the CP2 class. They should be able to help as well.
  8. 1 point
    No fricken wonder why I could not get any feels in the shifting at the foot lever. Yamaha went overkill with the rubber mounts. It's everywhere! Installed the Gilles rearsets. What a difference! Shifting now more pronounced, direct, and tactile. Also has the ability to adjust toe-piece. Now brake lever is at optimum position. Ordered the Factory Pro shift kit to enhance shifting even more.
  9. 1 point
    You build a dam, it's 2 edged sword. What keeps oil "in" also keeps some oil out. 2 cents
  10. 1 point
    Thanks for posting a pic of the oil sump removed Looks good. idk about a plate but i say trust your gut. Please Post more pics of your stunt bike.
  11. 1 point
  12. 1 point
  13. 1 point
    It was similar to that just at a slower speed I was just in a loading dock area and just tried to power wheelie in a second and the front end came up quick. My mind went blank and took my foot off the rear break. Tried to hop off the back of the bike and land on my feet. I was able to land one foot down and one of my shins dragged getting a slight road rash. Nothing serious. The bike just took a hard slam and skid. All in all I'm alright and the bike is repairable for not that much money. It was a good learning lesson that I think I needed to go through. My buddy was telling me to do something along the lines of that video just with the front suspension. He told me to just loosen the triple clamps and axle bolts then work the suspension through its travel and hopefully it'll straighten out. He rides dirt bikes and said it happens every time he crashes. Haven't tried it yet but hopefully, it works. If not I'll try what that guy did in the video.
  14. 1 point
    I'm not interested in buying your bag, but I wanted to leave a message for anyone who is. The Kriega US-20 Drybag is a GREAT piece of luggage. I own a US-20, and am very happy with it. I would highly recommend it to anyone especially at that price which is a great deal.
  15. 1 point
    I did a couple of track days with it starting to pop out so I caught it fairly early. The first track day I popped out maybe 4-5x through out the day using the quick shifter. The second time was like 1-2x per session using the clutch and banging hard in to 5th to ensure engagement . I was sweating bullets looking at the prices of having to get the transmission gears back cut. After I installed everything I think I got 1 pop out the whole day and that was probably from a lazy shift.
  16. 1 point
    Well, 2020/2021 was a crazy couple of years and I ended up moving, buying and renovating a house, and changing jobs. I just really didn't get the time to ride like I wanted and the bike didn't get many miles. My wife and I also got pregnant late in 2021, and as of writing this post, baby Savannah is 3 months old and I'm finally able to start getting some real time back on the bike. The pregnancy was a little rough towards the beginning and again at the end (preeclampsia is pretty scary), but we're getting into a routine and my wife actually decided she enjoys it when I get out of the house for a few hours - so I am happy to oblige on the bike! I'm also playing with the go pro a little more. I'm learning to color correct and I'm looking into the best way to mount the camera and potentially an audio recorder. Maybe some of my rides will make it to YouTube?
  17. 1 point
    @bockscar Did you figure it out? I just bought a new ignition and mine got the same 2 blue wire plug.
  18. 1 point
    -->Part 2 Disclaimer - all my mods will kill you and cause athletes foot fungus Here's the deal - nobody can do as good of a job adjusting the valves on your bike than you can. Nobody. Just do it. All of us here will help you. Essential Knowledge Crank Chart Stone Cold Motor - for adjusting valve clearance Intake Valve Clearance - 0.11mm - 0.20mm Exhaust Valve Clearance - 0.24mm - 0.30mm Double Overhead Cams Sketch. The first sketch on left shows the typical operation of the engine - double overhead cams being turned by sprocket/chain on the crankshaft and tensioned by the Cam Chain Tensioner (CCT), rotating in the direction of the arrow - this is the view from the "RIGHT" side of bike (foot brake side). In the second sketch, the CCT has been removed and the slack in the chain could allow the chain to slip off the crank sprocket. The engine is put back in time during reassembly, using the timing marks on the two cams and the rotor timing marks (third and fourth sketch). rotor timing marks About feeler gauges - don't force. The right size will slide between gap with the same drag as pulling a piece of paper out from under a magazine. Hold the feeler gauge between thumb and forefinger. Don't let the feeler gauge touch the engine case. Use two feeler gauge blades together for cam clearance measures - single blade can give a false sense of resistance because the angle of cam measures. Get blades a little oily. Example -to measure minimum 0.24mm exhaust valve clearance, use 0.15mm & 0.09mm blades together. Prerequisites: Order Yamaha OEM Service Manual for your bike year/model MT-07, FZ-07, XSR700, Tenere700, any with CP2 motor. Undress your bike for the job – pull the fuel tank panels and fuel tank. TAKE A PICTURE of everything under the tank on both sides once tank is off, before you start removing/moving things to get access to the engine top end. Remove the radiator (drain first), clutch cable guide, coils, spark plugs, cylinder head cover. Put 2 zip-ties around the cylinder #2 Coil On Plug (COP) spark lead wire so you know which is what at reassembly time. AND PLUG ALL OIL PASSAGES/OPENINGS IN CYLINDER HEAD, SPARK PLUG OPENINGS, AND CAM CHAIN OPENING (when not rotating engine crank) WITH RAGS/SOMETHING BECAUSE ANYTHING CAN ACCIDENTALLY DROP INTO THE MOTOR. IN THIS EXAMPLE RAGS ARE REMOVED TO TAKE CLEAR PICTURES. Key Parts & Tools, if you go all the way Yamaha OEM - Highly Recommended 1 x Yamaha Shop Manual, for your bike model 1 x 1WS-11193-01-00 HEAD COVER GASKET 1 x 1WS-12213-00-00 TENSIONER CASE GASKET Nice To Have 1 x 93210-357A3-00 O-RING Crankcase access cover seal 1 x 90430-08143-00 GASKET, Crankcase cover timing marks bolt gasket 2 x LMA-R8A9S-00-00 SPARK PLUG LMAR8A9S 1 x 5SL-12214-00-00 GASKET Tensioner special tool access bolt gasket Tools (All Highly Recommended) 1 x Mfg Part# FG-02-032 TUSK Feeler gauges 1 x Mfg Part# 08-0652 Motion Pro magnetic pickup 1 x Mfg Part# CMMT98348 Craftsman powerful magnetic pickup for buckets 1 x Mfg Part# 201872 Anytime Tools micrometer Supplies Permatex "High Tack" gasket sealant - keeps the valve cover gasket in the valve cover while you struggle getting it back on. Red Line Assembly Lube - yes because it's red, and you can see that you have used too much, or none at all, because it's red. Measuring Cylinder #1 Valve Clearances This is the view from the "LEFT" side of bike (gear shift side). Remove the crankshaft cover and the timing mark access bolt. Only rotate the engine counter-clockwise. Refer to the first row in the Crank Chart "Crank Rotation Degrees 0" Use a 19mm socket wrench on the crankshaft end nut exposed by removing the crankshaft cover. Rotate slowly the crankshaft counter-clockwise, while looking thru the timing mark bolt opening, and align the rotor timing marks (RED timing mark for clarity). Cylinder #1 Cams Lobes Facing should "FACE OPPOSITE". If cam lobes are not facing opposite, rotate the crankshaft counter-clockwise until the rotor timing marks align again. And repeat the check of cylinder #1 Cams Lobes Facing should "FACE OPPOSITE". This is the position for measuring cylinder #1 valve clearance (cylinder #1 TDC compression stroke). Here is the "callout" I will refer to below. Measure cylinder #1 exhaust valves - check the minimum spec of 0.24mm using the 0.15mm & 0.09mm blades together. Continue measuring until satisfied with a good clearance measure, record results on paper for "Exhaust.C1.V1" & "Exhaust.C1.V2" (the two exhaust valves clearance measures). Repeat for the two intake valves "Intake.C1.V3" & "Intake.C1.V4". On paper, be sure it is clear which valve clearance measure is which - draw a diagram that makes it clear. FYI the red in photos is assembly lube - the cams have been in and out multiple times during picture taking. Measuring Cylinder #2 Valve Clearances Refer to the second row in the Crank Chart "Crank Rotation Degrees 270". Make a degree wheel, and cut a hole to fit it onto wrench with the 19mm socket used to turn the crankshaft... Setup a pointer, to measure the rotation to 270 degrees... ...and rotate the crank counter-clockwise 270 degrees, the required position for measuring cylinder #2 valves clearances. Cylinder #2 Cams Lobes Facing should "FACE OPPOSITE" (cylinder #2 TDC compression stroke). Measure cylinder #2 clearance with the same procedure as used on cylinder #1 measures, and record measures for cylinder #2 exhaust "Exhaust.C2.V5" & "Exhaust.C2.V6" and intake "Intake.C2.V7" & "Intake.C2.V8". If any valve clearances measures are out of Yamaha specification, continue with the removal of cams and the swapping of new shims into position under the cam lobe buckets described in Part 2.
  19. 1 point
    <-- Part 2 'continued from Part 2 If you have been following Part 1 & Part 2, your motor crankshaft is already in position for removing and reinstalling the cams. Essential Knowledge Refer to the third row in the Crank Chart "Crank Rotation Degrees 360" - this is the position for cam removal and installation (cylinder #1 TDC Exhaust Stroke). If the crankshaft has not been turned since the cams were removed, a check of the rotor flywheel timing marks will be in alignment, exactly as they were set before the cams were removed - aligned properly and with cylinder #1 TDC Exhaust Stroke (RED timing mark added for clarity). Sketches are views from the "RIGHT" side of bike (foot brake side). Putting the motor in time, is a sequence of steps starting at the crank cam sprocket and working counter-clockwise to remove cam chain slack and align timing marks on the cams, and the final step of installing the cam chain tensioner and adjusting to remove remaining slack. In these sketches, the RED color indicates where the cam chain slack has been removed during reassembly. Keep a clear understanding that when viewed from the "RIGHT" side of the bike (foot brake side), the running engine will turn clockwise. The crank cam sprocket turning clockwise will pull "down" so to speak on the exhaust cam and in turn pull the intake cam sprocket, the cam lobes opening and closing valves in time with the crank motion of the pistons without self-destructing. Before the valve cover goes back on, it is easy to confirm the motor is in time by simply checking the involved timing marks, rotating the crank one full 4 stroke cycle (720 degrees) and checking them all again. And then check them again, and take pictures to send to anybody who cares, that you do your own valves. It is also obvious if the motor has not been put in time. If the cam sprocket timing marks are off by even one tooth, it is visually impossible to ignore. The most dangerous thing (imo) is not mistiming the cams, it's dropping something "hard" into the motor. AND PLUG ALL OIL PASSAGES/OPENINGS IN CYLINDER HEAD, SPARK PLUG OPENINGS, AND CAM CHAIN OPENING (when not rotating engine crank) WITH RAGS/SOMETHING BECAUSE ANYTHING CAN ACCIDENTALLY DROP INTO THE MOTOR. IN THIS EXAMPLE RAGS ARE REMOVED TO TAKE CLEAR PICTURES. The 4 sketches above result with the drawing below, where the final step of setting the cam chain tensioner is complete. This is a motor in time, and if any of your timing marks are not aligned with the engine case as shown below - no harm done, other than you get to go backwards removing the cam(s) to get to the step where the first misalignment occurred. Prerequisites: SEE THE YAMAHA SERVICE MANUAL. Use assembly lube on the cylinder head journals (where the camshaft "sits" when operating), the valve buckets, the cams, cam caps - all the "metal to metal" contact surfaces where movement occurs. What does not get assembly lube can be wetted with engine oil. Refer to Yamaha documentation. WET THE CAM CAP BOLTS because the torque specification is intended for bolts that have been lubed on the bolt threads with engine oil. Position key tools within reach, and set both the cams on top of the cylinder head but back out of the way of the chain until they are needed (do not place them in final position). You want everything lubed and ready to go because you will be maintaining mild tension on the cam chain (starting with the chain between the crank cam chain sprocket and the exhaust cam). My disorganized organization - as long as your brain knows what is what, you're good. Pick up the cam chain with both hands, like a necklace. Shake the cam chain a bit, and it will "free up" a little more chain that may have been caught on some of the cam chain guides (important, even if you kept the chain on the cam sprocket, there still can be some chain entangled with the chain tensioner guides). Raise the chain, and you will feel it when it slides back on the crank sprocket, its a very secure fit. Don't try to muscle the chain, if you pull hard-hard you might turn the crank that is aligned for reassembly. You just keep a relatively small amount of tension on the chain. That results in a cam chain back on the cam chain crank sprocket (in RED). Most of us only have two hands, so if you're not a squid lets tie up some of that chain so it's less likely to slide off the crank sprocket. Leave enough chain free to work on the next step, setting & timing of the exhaust cam. Below shows the extra slack taken up by a zip tie, and the right hand is holding enough of the cam chain to keep it on the crank cam sprocket. Always while working to set the cams, be conscious of keeping some mild tension on the cam chain. It's not like it has to be tensioned every moment - I often let some slack into the cam chain while working on cams but by keeping it moderate, the cam chain stays on the crank cam sprocket. Next step, set the exhaust cam. First take a clear look at the exhaust cam and it's timing marks out of the bike. There a two timing marks, one at "12" and the other at "6". They will be aligned with the top of the engine case like below when the cam is set in it's journals where it rotates. And when positioning the exhaust cam, because it has two timing marks - ensure proper position of the cam by checking the view from the "LEFT" side of bike (gear shift side) cylinder #1 cam lobes "FACE EACH OTHER". Below is a picture of both the cams, facing each other, as they are when in proper position for removal and installation of the cams. Align the timing cam marks, and make sure the exhaust cam lobes on cylinder #1 are oriented to "FACE EACH OTHER". Let's begin the install & timing of the exhaust cam. We want to find the cam chain "rivet" (I will call it the "pin") that is in alignment with the top of the engine case, where the exhaust cam is positioned. I'm holding the chain (with the slack removed) as if it was wrapping around the exhaust cam gear, and that identifies the pin with the RED arrow as our target for cam alignment (the picture is taken from above and that distorts the view somewhat). Let's use a diagram to show it at the top of the engine case "eye level". The chain is coming off of the crank cam sprocket and is snug with no slack, and the RED pin identifies where the exhaust cam timing mark needs to point (it should point just above the top of the pin just like the engine case does). OK, so without losing track of the RED pin or creating any slack in the chain, hold the cam above where it will eventually sit and take the cam chain (with slack removed) and wrap it around the exhaust cam sprocket, with the timing marks on the exhaust cam pointing at the top of the RED pin like below. (Sorry, I can't draw "gear teeth", so the gear below is just the circle with the two timing marks.) TIP: I have heard you can use "white out" from office supplies, and put a small dab of white on the pin - and wipe if off once complete. You can also use "mechanics pen" (Forney White Paint Marker #70818) that is oil based - but my old eyes can't see it very well. And without letting the chain go slack (as you lower the cam down into the journals you must rotate it counter-clockwise to keep the cam chain tensioned with no slack), set the cam into it's journal seats where it belongs in the cylinder head, with the timing chain wrapped around it, without any chain slack between the crank cam sprocket and the exhaust cam gear. See what we did ? - we used the cam chain off the crank cam sprocket to "measure" where the exhaust cam timing mark needed to be relative to the cam chain, then put the exhaust cam into the cam chain at that position. The cam timing mark may be a little "high" (slightly above the engine case) because it needs it's cam cap bar to "seat" itself down a little further into it's journals properly. Take the lubed up exhaust cap bar (and read the Service Manual how to lube the cap bar bolts before inserting) and start the cam cap bolts in by hand. As described in the service manual, tighten down the exhaust cam cap bolts a small amount at a time, working from the outside to the inside, in a crisscross manner. ONLY FIRMLY SNUG THE EXHAUST CAM CAP BOLTS -you want them secure so things don't move but don't put any serious torque on the cam cap yet. FOLLOW THE SERVICE MANUAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR LUBING AND SEATING ALL CAMS, CAPS, AND PARTS. With the exhaust cam set in the head, the cam is both timed properly and it has no slack (indicated by the RED outline on the cam chain) below. Nice. Now let's do the install & timing of the intake cam. If the cam chain can be used to measure where the exhaust cam timing mark needed to "point", it can also identify where the intake timing mark should point relative to the cam chain. I already know how many cam chain rivets ("pins") away from the exhaust cam timing mark, the intake pin should be on the chain. We are going to simply count from our starting position of the exhaust cam timing mark pin, and that will identify where we want the intake timing mark to point. On the exhaust cam chain, start counting from our PIN #1. Count 31 "pins". Place the intake cam on the cam chain with the timing mark (stamped with the capital letter "I") between chain PIN #31 and PIN #32. Now set the cam in place, without slack in the chain between the two cams, above the intake cam seats in the head. Because the intake cam has cam lobes pointing "downward" toward the buckets, the intake timing mark will appear too high above the engine case until the cam cap bar pushes the cam down into the cam journals properly (and it will open some valves as the cam cap is tightened). When the cam cap is used to seat the intake cam, the intake timing mark "I" will align with the cylinder head. Place the intake cam cap bar on the cam, put the bolts into position but just turn it by hand a turn or two -don't try to push the intake cam down yet with the cam cap bolts. BEFORE DOING ANYTHING ELSE STOP and do this. When the initial tightening down of the intake cam cap is applied, it will cause the timing chain around the exhaust cam gear to start to "walk" out of the cam gear (trying to slip a tooth). To prevent that from happening, we are going to proactively "bind" the cam chain to the cam gears so they can't slip, and we use a different method on each cam. To bind the exhaust cam sprocket to chain, you want to make a small "wedge" using some vacuum line, and run a safety wire or string or I used lawn trimmer line thru the center of the vacuum hose - it's the safety line so leave it long, in case the vacuum line falls into the motor you will be able to easily retrieve it. "Wedge" the vacuum line cushion down in-between the exhaust cam chain & engine case, and tie the safety line off. It should be hard to get it in place - that's good, it needs to apply some force to the chain, pushing it on to it's cam gear. That vacuum line is the right size to wedge with enough force to keep the cam chain on the exhaust cam gear. To bind the cam chain to the intake cam gear, follow the directions in the Yamaha Service Manual, for putting a zip tie around the chain and thru the "hole" in the intake cam chain sprocket (we could not do it that way on the exhaust cam gear because it has no "hole" to zip tie). Here is a blurry picture while I am putting a zip tie thru the intake cam gear hole and will tighten it around the chain, a very easy and effective way to make sure the cam chain is forced against the cam gear, and does not slip. Once both the cam gears are bound to the chain to prevent a skipped tooth, go ahead with installing the intake cam gear cap following the instructions in the Yamaha Service Manual. ONLY FIRMLY SNUG THE INTAKE CAM CAP BOLTS - you want them secure so things don't move but don't put any serious torque on the cam cap yet. This intake cam is "up above it's journals" and has a long way to go down as you tighten it (it will be pushing the intake valve buckets to open valves as you tighten), so go slow, tighten the intake cam cap small amounts at a time working from the outside in with a crisscross pattern, to bring that cam and cap down into the seats in a level, even fashion. Seriously, go slow in small increments. If you don't bring the whole cap down in small steps, you could "twist" the cam cap badly. DO NOT REMOVE THE CAM CHAIN BIND TO CAM GEARS UNTIL AFTER THE CAM CHAIN TENSIONER IS REINSTALLED. Now, before applying the proper torque, look at both the cam gears to confirm they are aligned with the cylinder head. Go back to the pictures you took of the cam alignment before they were removed. Check the exhaust cam timing marks with a straightedge. The intake cam timing mark is easy to see, with the big letter "I" next to the timing mark. If it all looks good, refer to the Yamaha Service Manual and torque both the cam cap bars now. If the timing marks are not aligned, you probably already thought something wasn't right and now you can see. Go back if you have to, and do it again, making what ever corrections you think are needed. Here are some pictures I took just before removing the cams: Exhaust cam I highlighted the two timing marks in red - straight edge really helps see alignment and the intake is easy to see that it is aligned, even though my photo is from "slightly above". Get your eye down at the level of the engine case, and confirm those cams are in time, before going on with reassembly. Reinstalling the Cam Chain Tensioner and Not Following the Service Manual When the cam chain tensioner is installed it seems that it can "slap" the chain and knock the cam chain enough to throw a skipped tooth into the chain on one of the cams. But if you put binds on both cam gear/chains, it will not skip a tooth. So we are good to go with re-installing the cam chain tensioner. Retrieve the cam chain tensioner - it should be where you put it along with that special tool still inserted, keeping the chain tensioner retracted. If the special tool came out, just insert the special tool again and retract the tensioner by turning it counter clockwise until it stops - the fully retracted position. Follow the Service Manual and lube up the tensioner body with engine oil, and the tensioner arm - it is bathed in pressurized oil when it operates with engine running. Insert the tensioner into the cylinder head (with the special tool still inserted in the tensioner). Use a new tensioner gasket if you have one, and follow the Service Manual - it shows that the gasket is inserted in a certain way. Also the cam chain tensioner has a mark stamped on the body of the tensioner showing which side faces up, when it is inserted. The cylinder head opening has an oil port visible on the "in" side of the bore, and that's why it has to be installed (along with it's gasket) oriented as described in the Service Manual. With the special tool still inserted, remount the cam chain tensioner with the two outer mounting bolts, torque to Service Manual specs. Now we are going to do the initial tightening of the tensioner arm against the cam chain (the last part of the cam chain that still has slack). Follow the manual up to the point where it says to tightened the cam chain until it makes contact. Now do this instead of following the manual. Turn the special tool clockwise to the point where it makes contact, then snug the cam chain tensioner with some low-to-medium force - don't gorilla it and definitely don't follow the Service Manual (I think it says "turn it an additional half turn" - a great way to over tighten it imo). Just snug the cam chain tensioner up moderately firm against the cam chain guide with the special tool. Then take your thumb only, and press hard on the cam chain where it shows in the drawing below, between the two cam gears, and then release. You will see the deflection of the chain when your thumb is pressing down. Now try to tighten the special tool that was already snugged with low-to-medium force. It will probably be easier to turn again for a small distance because you freed up some chain slack, so go ahead and repeat the tightening with the special tool. Snug the cam chain tensioner up with low-to-medium force again. Then repeat - use your thumb again, and press hard again on chain between cams, then release. You will see the deflection of the chain when your thumb is pressing down, but it will probably be less deflection than that first press. Now try to tighten the special tool again - it will probably be easier to turn again, so go ahead and repeat the tightening with the special tool. Snug the cam chain tensioner up with low-to-medium force again. Each time you press on the cam chain with your thumb (and you see deflection in the chain), there is more chain slack remaining that you free up, and then remove by tightening the special tool again. But it will probably only need 2 presses & tightening. By the 3rd press, you may see very little or no deflection when pressing down on the cam chain. When that happens you are done "pumping" the cam chain for slack. But always check one last time to see if the special tool has been tightened "snug" against the cam chain guide with low-to-medium force. If you are more comfortable following the Service Manual, please do. You should always follow the Service Manual. Remove the special tool, and that lets the cam chain tensioner "snap" into auto-tensioning position. Then put the special tool access cap bolt & (new) washer back on the cam chain tensioner, and save your special tool in the toolbox. After the cam chain tensioner "snap" into position, you can REMOVE THE BINDS PLACED ON THE CAMS/CHAINS. Cut off the intake cam zip tie and pull out the exhaust cam vacuum line wedge, and don't let any pieces fall into the motor. Confirming Cam Timing To get this far, you have already confirmed that the cam timing marks are all aligned properly. But let's confirm it again by rotating the engine and bringing it back to the "Cam Rotation Degrees 360" in our crank chart. From the "LEFT" side of bike (gear shift side) turn the crankshaft slowly counter clockwise 2 full turns and at the end of the second turn align the rotor flywheel timing marks again (RED timing mark added for clarity). If you feel any unusual contact or resistance while turning, stop and assess the situation. Now ensure proper position of the cams by checking the view from the "LEFT" side of bike (gear shift side) cylinder #1 cam lobes "FACE EACH OTHER". And now check the cam gear timing marks by checking the view from the "RIGHT" side of bike (foot brake side). If everything looks like the pictures you took before you removed the cams for maintenance, you are done with the CORE VALVE ADJUSTMENT. Now get that naked bike back together and go ride. Enjoy.
  20. 1 point
    <-- Part 1 Part 3--> 'continued from Part 1 Essential Knowledge These 3 simple sketches are views from the "RIGHT" side of bike (foot brake side). All 3 sketches show the cam gear's timing marks in red for emphasis - they are only stamped lines on the actual cams. First sketch, is what is going on inside the cylinder head as shown in Part 1. Third sketch shows a correct installation of the cams in the cylinder head. But without x-ray vision, the only thing you can see directly while removing and installing the cams, is the sketch in the middle. The intake cam has a single timing mark of interest with a large letter "I" stamped next to the timing mark. The exhaust cam has two timing marks. That's essentially it, simple to understand. So don't let the cam become complex when you see this (below) Just look at that picture and say "it's just a cam sprocket with two timing marks to align with the engine case". Because that is all it is. Removing Cams Refer to the third row in the Crank Chart "Crank Rotation Degrees 360" - this is the position for cam removal and installation (cylinder #1 TDC Exhaust Stroke). Rotate the crankshaft counter-clockwise until the Rotor Timing Marks are "ALIGNED" (RED timing mark added for clarity). Check for the cylinder #1 Cam Lobes Facing "FACE EACH OTHER". If they are not facing each other, continue with another rotation counter-clockwise of the crankshaft, until the Rotor Timing Marks are "ALIGNED". And repeat the check for cylinder #1 Cam Lobes Facing "FACE EACH OTHER". This (below) is the view from the "RIGHT" side of bike (foot brake side). Check the cam gear sprockets, they should be aligned with the top of the engine cylinder head. The intake cam with the single timing mark and the stamped letter "I", aligned with the cylinder head. The exhaust cam has two marks, and they are highlighted in red for emphasis. Using a straight edge placed along the top of the cylinder head, makes it easier to see that the two timing marks on the exhaust cam are aligned with the cylinder head. Stop and look at the two cams while they are in time, before removing them. Take some pictures, from both sides of the bike, so you have a photo record of the cam gear timing and the orientation of the cylinder #1 cam lobes just prior to removal. And take some pictures of the cam chain tensioner too. At reassembly, they will be put back and will look exactly like they do now before removal. DO NOT ROTATE THE CRANKSHAFT ONCE IT HAS BEEN ALIGNED FOR CAM REMOVAL. IT MUST REMAIN IN THE SAME POSITION UNTIL THE CAMS HAVE BEEN REINSTALLED AT THE END OF MAINTENANCE. The spring assisted hydraulic Cam Chain Tensioner (CCT) needs to be retracted and removed. It requires a "special" tool, a hex wrench that has the legs shortened so it can fit in the tensioner to retract it, and remain inserted the entire time the CCT is out of the bike. Removing the special tool will cause the CCT to "snap out" to fully extended. The tool is 3mm hex wrench, cut down so the short leg is 23mm, the tool leg is 44mm. Short leg can be a bit longer, just has to clear everything as you rewind. Here is the link for making the tool. Removing the CCT, start by removing the access bolt in the center of the CCT. Insert the special tool and wind the tool counter-clockwise until it stops, this will retract the tensioner that is pressing against the cam chain guide. Remove the two outer mounting bolts, and remove the tensioner - leave the special tool inserted into the CCT and set it aside. Below, the oil supply port is visible in the CCT opening in the cylinder. If you have ever wondered if a manual cam chain tensioner can replace the OEM - here is the APE manual tensioner on left and the spring assisted hydraulic OEM CCT on the right. The APE tensioner "body" is too small, the bike will lose oil pressure if the OEM is replaced with APE (APE pn#YTFZ09-PRO). I'll be asking for my $$ back - they said it will fit (physically it does, but the APE body is .933" and the OEM body is 1.003". Using a new OEM gasket on the CCT is probably a good idea on reinstall. LET's ROCK PLUG ALL OIL PASSAGES/OPENINGS IN CYLINDER HEAD, SPARK PLUG OPENINGS, AND CAM CHAIN OPENING (when not rotating engine crank) WITH RAGS/SOMETHING BECAUSE ANYTHING CAN ACCIDENTALLY DROP INTO THE MOTOR. IN THIS EXAMPLE RAGS ARE REMOVED TO TAKE CLEAR PICTURES. IF YOU DROP SOMETHING INTO THE MOTOR, IT WILL BE A VERY BAD YEAR. DO NOT RISK DROPPING A VALVE SHIM OR ANYTHING ELSE INTO THE MOTOR. Remove the intake camshaft cap bar. Loosen cap bar bolts in small increments working from the outside to inside in a criss-cross pattern, and remove the cam. Not necessary to maintain tension on the cam chain, but some like to go that route. The engine timing is going to get set on reinstall, and that includes positioning the cam chain on the crankshaft sprocket if it has slipped off. Definitely find something to prevent the cam chain from falling into the motor, but if it does, there is a bolt that prevents the chain from going on a deep dive into the motor. Continue by removing the exhaust cam cap bar. Loosen cap bar bolts in small increments working from the outside to inside in a criss-cross pattern. Remove the exhaust cam, and secure the cam chain so it will not fall into the motor. Below a dowel rod runs thru the cam chain keeping it nicely out of the way. Below is the two exhaust valves for cylinder #1. The left valve has already had the bucket pulled and the valve shim left behind in the valve retainer "cup" is visible. The right valve has not yet had the bucket removed. For removing and installing buckets & shims, the best choice is to have a magnetic pickup tool and a non-magnetic valve lapping tool. I use both a MotionPro magnetic pickup tool and also a cheap valve lapping tool with a rubber suction cup. EDIT: This is a more powerful magnetic pickup tool for pulling the buckets & shim together (1 x Mfg Part# CMMT98348 Craftsman magnetic pickup). You still need the MotionPro magnetic pickup for inserting shims in the valve retainer "cup", or pulling mis-shaped shims that get "stuck" in the retainer. Motion pro tool Part No. 08-0652 Lapping tool stuck to a bucket. And if you are an old tymer from the olden tymes, you go with the old habits. I have a 30 year old stick with a rubber suction cup on it in my tool box, because yes. STOP BEFORE GOING ANY FURTHER PLUG ALL OPENINGS IN THE CYLINDER HEAD THAT PARTS COULD FALL INTO. Only pull the buckets that measured out of spec, that need a new shim thickness to get back into spec. Before pulling any shims, make an organized place to put each bucket and shim, so it's clear what cylinder and valve they came from. The buckets go back in with the same valve they came out of, and the old shims will be used to calculate the thickness of new replacement shims. You can't do any of that, if the buckets and shims get mixed up together. Here is the "callout" I will refer to below. I will use the lapper pickup tool to pull buckets. A better choice is the magnetic pickup. Stick the pickup tool to the top center of a bucket. And extract the bucket Did the shim come out stuck to the underside of the bucket held there by the magnetic pickup? I used the lapper tool, and the shim does stick to the bucket most of the time. The magnetic pickup increases the odds the shim will come out with the bucket. What if the shim did not come out with the bucket? You have to go get it. And this is where the MotionPro magnetic pickup is the right size, to stick to that shim on the left, and extract it. Stick the MotionPro magnetic pickup on that shim and extract it. There it is, stuck to the magnet, instead of falling into the motor. Continue with the removal of the buckets where the gap measured was "out of spec" and need replaced. Once you have the bucket and existing shims extracted, next comes the calculation of what shim size should replace the existing shims. For this example, I will be replacing all the exhaust shims and none of the intake shims - intake shims were all within specification. Calculation of new shims Start by measuring the old shims that were removed. Here is a micrometer from Anytime Tools (pn# 201872), it's impressive how accurate and well made it is, for $25. Measure the shims that need replaced to get back into the valve clearance specification. Disregard if the shim has laser etching that says what size it's supposed to be. We don't care what it says it is, we care what it measures. Same goes for every shim you buy, new or used, measure them. Below is the sample calculation. The ideal new shim size is 1.67mm, but standard shim sizes are only available in 1.65mm and 1.70mm. If the 170mm is chosen, the new "valve clearance" is 0.24mm (on the edge of being too tight) or if the 165mm is chosen, the new "valve clearance" is 0.29mm (on the edge of being too loose). What to do? Use 7.48mm diameter shims from Pro X, they have standard sizes and shims in "intermediate" sizes. In the calculation above, choosing the Pro X 1.675mm shim (when standard shim sizes are "too gross") will result in a new clearance of 0.265mm, in the middle of the Yamaha specification for exhaust valves (0.24mm -> 0.30mm) . Keep this in mind that there are more choices in shims sizes with Pro X (when needed) . Use this example and calculate what shim sizes you need to order, and get them on the way (about $2 each from Pro X suppliers- Pro X has standard sizes and "intermediate" sizes for same price). Installing new shims Once the new shims are in hand, use the MotionPro magnetic pickup to insert the new shims. Put the replacement shim on the MotionPro magnetic pickup, with the lazer etching side of the shim stuck to the magnet. Dash the valve "cup"/stem with a small amount of assembly lube. A small amount, not this flood. I had things in and out multiple times and got overboard with the lube. Place the new shim in the valve retainer "cup" securely... Slide the MP pickup tool sideways, like spreading butter on a bagel, slide the tool right off the side of the valve retainer, leaving the shim securely in the cup. Put all the buckets back in the motor with the same valve they came out of, but with the new size shim. To place the bucket over this valve & shim, use the rubber lapping tool. NO MAGNETICS - if you use a magnetic tool, as you slide the bucket into place the magnet could pull that shim out of the cup (under the bucket), and you would not know (until you started the motor). Wet the rubber cup with a little oil and wet the bucket with a small amount of assembly lube outside, and a small dash of lube inside the bucket where the shim will make contact, and "stick" the rubber tool on the bucket. Any "dry" spots on the bucket, wet with engine oil. and slide the bucket back into the head, you can twirl it between your fingers and it will slide right in. If you use your hand instead of the lapper tool, it will "bind". Let the rubber cup tool be free between your fingers to find it's own way as it slides into place. Continue, replacing the old shims with new, and the buckets matched with the bore in the head they came out of. Once you have the new shims and buckets back in the head, on to Part 3 - Reassembly of the cams.
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