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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/22/2021 in all areas

  1. 7 points
    Been a while since I posted...life events have got me busy, haha. I did fulfill a lifelong dream though... Here was the set up at MotoAmerica for Laguna Seca: - Paul
  2. 6 points
    @Fz07Tyler yup went to Gimli Had a great first ever track day on my motorcycle and I hit all my goals. The bike and I made it home in perfect working order (about 375km including 125km each way to toget to/from the track), I think I learned a bit and I had fun. I was by far the slowest person on the track (novice group of course) and it upset some of the other riders as there was a rule that you only pass on the front straight so a number of them would have a lap ruined having to follow me. I always made sure to start at the back of the pack. I ended up having people passing my at other points on the track though. At one point one of the other riders came to have a chat with me because I would keep looking behind. He told me to stop doing that and just pay attention to the track ahead as it is the rider behind who has to pass when safe that the rider ahead has the line. Where that caught me out though was if I got off line a couple riders would take the opportunity to pass (again not on the front straight) so I became hesitant to get back on line without a shoulder check as I didn't want to collide with someone. It is tough to trust that the other rider will do the right thing but in my final session I really tried to put that advice to use. I did have a couple little offs into the grass. For those that do not know the track, it is built on an old runway in a field so all the run off areas are just grass fields. Both times I know I had under committed to the corner so I just straightened up the bike to exit the track as gracefully as I coule, got slowed enough to eventually rejoin the track safely. Sadly my GoPro mounting wasn't the best and of the 6 sessions it is only the last one where I got the camera locked in so that it didn't either flip forward or flip backward. I mounted to the front fender which was a neat perspective. I now understand the desire for a quicker ratio throttle. In particular on this track coming out of turn 9 (final turn heading to the front straight), I have to wait until on the front straight to adjust my grip so that I can properly go full throttle. So of that is my comfort level adjusting my hand position, and or poor technique. Here is the video of my final session. Please keep in mind that this is the first time I have ever been to a track and I have only had a motorcycle license for a year...I know my lines are terrible, that I am not getting on the throttle early enough and that I am on the brakes too early, but I rode just outside of my comfort level, trying to push myself in a controlled manner. But I am open to any suggestions on how to progress. Sorry I did not trim the video so you need to skip in a bit to get to the actual riding part...at about 2:30 is when I get out to start my lapping. You will also see that parts of the track are really bumpy.
  3. 4 points
    Thanks! Out of 20, LoL. Actually, it was out of 28 I think tbh. I'm pretty happy. I improved every session on a track I've only been to twice before. I didn't finish last, and I didn't finish lower than where I started - and I beat a rival of mine from the club racing days haha.
  4. 4 points
    If you're getting front end wobble over 90, you should correct that before trying to go fast on a track. I've had mine over 100 and it's steady as a rock.
  5. 3 points
    When it comes to the chain, when in doubt do it. It'll last much longer and you'll be more familiar with the machine and notice things before they become mission critical. The easiest thing to do is get a can of chain cleaner, a can of chain wax and a grunge brush. (Maxima or whatever brand you like) Cleaner on, brush, blow or wipe clean/dry. Then a light coat of wax. Do it every 500 miles or so after your ride while the chain is warm. Takes 5 minutes, your stuff will last much longer, you'll be much safer and happier. Cheers, Dave
  6. 2 points
    If something goes wrong and you find yourself in a high speed wobble, immediately put your chest on the gas tank. If all goes well you'll stop the wobble and can slow down safely. Then find out what caused it before you ride again!
  7. 2 points
    Was there a diagnostic code that came on with the check engine light? Something on the dash that said "5D- xx" , the xx being another pair of numbers. Was the air filter stock or an aftermarket one? Many people don't properly maintain aftermarket gauze type air filters, and that makes them famous for ingesting dust which leads to low compression. Knowing what the spark plugs looked like when you had them out should give you clues if the rings were hurt or not. Also, do you 100% trust the reading of your compression tester gauge?
  8. 2 points
    Well, it's within the max-min specification, so there is no big problem. Was the throttle held wide open for the test? The air filter shouldn't have any significant effect at cranking speed, but if the throttle wasn't open it'll read low. Also, if it has been sitting around for a long time, like months, it could read a little low until it's run a little while. It's getting close to the mileage of the first valve adjustment. Do you know if that has been done? Also, the manual specifies checking the compression with the engine warmed up. Was it warm?
  9. 2 points
    I don't watch those videos much. First off it's a rust prohibiter not a lubricant. Second if it's thick enough to pile up or be felt or seen it's way too much. One rotation of the chain is enough while coating. When it's done after the ride it's dry the next ride and it's too thin to collect debris. The lubricant is in/on the pins and rollers held in by the x-rings. The wax prevents rust and crap from getting into where it shouldn't get into, nothing more. Maxima (or whatever) should be dry to the touch next ride. Anything more on a modern chain is a waste. The reason wax is wax is so it doesn't fling off and it gets hard so it doesn't collect crud. Think of it like chain skin. This opinion and a buck still gets you coffee in some places. Edit: Now you got me started, If you don't properly clean your chain, and most don't, and just guber on another way too thick layer of 'lube' thinking you're a hero, you're locking in one layer of bilge sludge and adding another layer of crusty smeg to hasten the demise of your $200 super set of gold o-ring coolness. You're ruining your own stuff. Clean it, wax it, enjoy it. Where'd I set my beer?
  10. 2 points
    Yeah, his results on a few if those products don't line up with my own experiences. I agree especially agree with Triple Jim on the Maxima chain wax. I used it to protect surfaces I don't want scratched when I'm sand blasting parts. I need mineral spirits to wash it off later. Absolutely no way that stuff flings. I didn't grab to sound rude when I said I thought you chain was filthy. For me, it is. I live on a gravel road. That buildup, like you can see on the tips of the sprocket teeth, will hold grit and grind it in to everything. Get some and rub it between your fingertips. It probably won't feel real gritty. Now rub it between two fingernails. I bet if you service your chain it'll sound totally different. 4000km is a long time to wait to service a chain. You'll hear that sound difference and you'll know in the future, regardless of distance, when the chain is singing to you that it wants a bath.
  11. 2 points
    More miles one negative Front has a harsh top out. Gone through the front making sure no install mistakes. For me it is no real issues, just not expected. Other than that it's Hella fun in dirt now
  12. 2 points
    Check the 10A "SIGNAL" fuse, make sure it is alright or simply replace it by a spare fuse. Horn, tail light and Aux.Light are powered by this fuse. Thats why it makes sense to start here. There has to be battery voltage at the lower terminal of the fuse holder like in the picture (while the ignition aka main switch is turned on)
  13. 2 points
    In that video, I don't think enough drying time was allowed in all cases. For example I've used Maxima chain wax in the past, and when it's dry it's way to thick to fling off.
  14. 2 points
    Regulators do not just reduce charging current and cause overvoltage when they fail. A regulator failure often results in no or very little charging current.
  15. 2 points
    What about the easy thing first, have you checked the regulator? The charging voltage is the measured output voltage of the rectifier/regulator which can also be out of specification because of a malfunction. The output voltage should be around 14V @ 5000 rpm. You can measure it directly at the battery terminals. Be careful, stop the engine if the voltage exceeds 14.8V...then theres a problem with the regulating part.
  16. 2 points
    Wow, good for you! Bring water, snacks, some fruit and a smile. You're gonna have fun. Leave the brake fluid, oil, coolant home since you should have that done or do it the day before. Bleed your brakes today too if you think you need to. At your first track day that's too much to worry about. If your bike can safely carry you an hour to the track it should be good. A tire gauge is a must have. You're gonna get about 6 or 8 sessions and won't have time for that other stuff. Look up an instructor or control rider to bug with questions and advice. Stay hydrated, get rest between sessions and pay attention at the riders meeting, they'll cover most of your questions. Dave
  17. 2 points
    The color, lack of grime, and stickiness makes me think it has been properly lubed with a wax based chain lube. I've tried Maxima Chain Wax but found it remained sticky enough to collect road dirt. Then I went to DuPont Chain Saver, which dries non-sticky, and I've been using that for a few years now. It's available in spray and liquid versions. The spray is nice, but I like using the liquid and a brush because of the lower cost and lack of overspray.
  18. 2 points
    Cool zappy noises are for Saturday morning cartoons. I wish I had better news but egad your life sucks. Ordinarily I'd say you have a short somewhere. Be methodical and check every wire, connection, terminal and relay until found, no problem. In your case I'd line up an Uber or another ride for work just in case. Obviously the fix is the same but I'd be extra nosey around anything not stock or unmolested like the tail tidy and LED's. Take a deep breath, open a beer, and get to it. Skip nothing, assume nothing. A 12 volt test light and a multi meter will be your companions today. Have another beer. Good luck.
  19. 1 point
  20. 1 point
    When I first bought my 07, I took her on the interstate and let her rip. She got up to 113 mph. That was the only time I've done it. I ride 80-85 on the freeway and have no issues with her. Check your head bearing for proper torque value, air in your tires, and your wheel bearings.
  21. 1 point
    Is this what you mean? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08Q4BJRLY You can find these in 1/4-3/8-1/2" drive, depending on your ratchet size. Quick Google search for "1/2 hex bit metric" or likewise will bring up a bunch of options
  22. 1 point
    So I have been looking for a new LID, in doing so one of my three questions and what I look for is the OEM manufacture Stamp on the helmet, Crash Return Discount, Return Policy. I will start with the first as it is important OEM manufacture Stamp: This is critical and most important to me as most helmet OEMs have a 5 Year Warranty for manufacture defects or say the chin strap breaks, most OEMs will not sell those straps and request you send it to them for replacement (ARAI and Bell are one of those OEM's) Back to warranty, brick and mortars will send you back to the OEM or will have a fitment program like eSites aka Revzilla to wear it around the house and bring it back if not right. But the Key thing we are talking about is OEM manufacture Stamp this is the secret unkown most riders are unaware of. The 5 Year Warranty is based on the Date stamped on the Helmet, NOT WHEN YOU PURCHASE IT! Let me say that again "The 5 Year Warranty is based on the Date stamped on the Helmet, NOT WHEN YOU PURCHASE IT!" So you buy a lid at clearance for 50% off, chances are those stamps are a year maybe to or more old, you buy it say today May 2018 you get it and discover the OEM stamp is October 2016 Ya your screwed for full warranty. EVERY OEM will advise it does not matter one iota as far as they are concerned the warranty and life of that helmet is based on that time stamp, so buyer beware. The first thing I look for is that stamp, if it is within 6 months of my purchase date I am good with that. Crash Return Discount: Many OEMs offer a crash return discount, Bell helmets is noted for leading the industry on this one. What this means is hoping and by Gods grace you survive the OEM will indeed offer a fairly nice discount to purchase the same helmet and return to them the damaged. Bell, ARAI (Well last I checked they did) again are two that do offer this. I do believe AGV, Scorpian do as well I may be mistaken. You should be able to find this out by asking the OEM with a email to the Support Department or Race Department. Return Policy: This is huge, making sure if you are buying from a brick and mortar they have a return policy if the helmet does not fit. Lets define this, majority of shops will if you are just walking around the house all day (RECOMMENDED STANDARD) and never road it riding with in a day or two to replace it with a larger or different helmet. IF THEY DO NOT, WALK AWAY after trying it on and buy from someone who will. Most ALL web sellers, Bike bandit, revzilla STL, Dennis Kirk have this policy. The down side, you have to send the helmet in for inspection before they send the other out, again BE AWARE.
  23. 1 point
    Oh boy. Most, if not all, of us here who concern ourselves with ported heads and bored throttle bodies, do at least the disassembly and reassembly ourselves. If you're not able or inclined to do it yourself, I'd try to find an experienced bike mechanic who operates his own small shop. I don't know anyone in Vegas but I can suggest you ask motorcyclists you talk to, including local track day guys, and in Facebook groups. Somebody will know somebody who can do it competently and well below dealer rates. But before I go, I'll encourage you to at least have a plan for learning to do the assembly and disassembly yourself and obtaining the necessary tools and equipment. I can't imagine how I could have had nearly as much fun racing and modifying stuff if I didn't have some fairly basic mechanical skills and equipment. Besides, when there is a problem, you'll know who to blame.
  24. 1 point
    I doubt you would be slowing anyone down in the corners.... I rode the intermediate group @ RA. In that group, you're allowed to pass on the straights, as well as the outside of corners. I only got passed (outside) in a corner once @ RA by a V4 Ducati. Later that day I was able to pass a BMW S1000RR on the outside of a corner. I do not say that to "brag", I'm saying the 07 really levels the playing field in a corner. On the big tracks, I've learned I don't really like the 07 much. Put it on a smaller, more technical track like Blackhawks Farms Raceway, and I can't imagine riding any other bike . To the original poster: If you pick your tracks, you will love the 07 on track- as long you pick your tracks accordingly- or don't mind being passed on a straight with a 60 mph" closing speed" by someone that may/may not have the skills to be doing such a thing.... It made me uncomfortable. I'm not a racer, and never will be. I'm a 52 year-old guy that enjoys lighting fuel on fire, and destroying tires (because its's fun ). At the end of the day, I have to go back to work on Monday morning. I like to manage risk, and choose the smaller/midsize tracks for track days. Hope that helps you out-
  25. 1 point
    I've only ever done 2 tracks days – one on my 2005 ZX-10R in 2006 and the other on my 2017 FZ07 in 2020. Both in Novice Class at VIR (Virginia International Raceway). The ZX-10R was a brilliant bike. Perfect for the track. The FZ was fun, too, but overall I found riding it at the track to be a frustrating experience. I have no trouble getting my knee down on the FZ and can corner pretty quickly, meaning I can hold my own in the turns. However, the supersports and superbikes could outrun me anytime we hit a long straight section. They would routinely blast past and jump in front of me as we approached a turn but then hit their brakes and slow WAY down to go through the corner. And since Novice riders are not allowed to pass in the turns, I had to slow down with them. I don't mind getting passed but having to plod through turns was a drag and kind of defeated the point of going to the track. An Advanced group rider told me that riders "parking it in the turns" is a common occurrence in Novice group. He promised it's much less of an issue once you get to the Intermediate and Advanced groups, so I guess that's a great incentive to try and get bumped up. Of course then I'd probably be slowing THEM down in the turns! In regards to instability: I've never experienced any stability issues with my FZ at any speed and it's completely stock.
  26. 1 point
    Tomorrow I am going to my first ever track day on a motorcycle (novice group of course). The goals are pretty simple, first and foremost is return home with myself and bike in proper working condition and then I hope I learn something and have fun. As I have to ride my bike to the track (about an hour away) I do not have a support vehicle to carry extra stuff so I need to pack smart. Looking for some advice on what I should take with me. Current list is: brake fluid oil coolant small assortment of tools (hex bit, sockets, ratchet, open & box end wrenches) tubing and catchcan for bleeding brakes (I actually use catheter supplies for this tire pressure gauge rags For myself I will wear all my normal gear but have arranged to borrow a race suit while on track. Will take a pair of runners, some small snacks (granola bars) and my hydration backpack (I won't wear it while on track) and maybe some extra clothes if I can fit them. What am I missing? Any other suggestions?
  27. 1 point
    I ride faster than 100 mph regularly and never had any kind of wobble, don't even know what to do in case this happens. I enter the freeway/Autobahn and braaaabraaabraaaaabraaa full flat out to 120 or something. But my neck is weak and windshield small, can't hold the head up for a long time, the only reason to slow down
  28. 1 point
    No, I don't know, is this very complicated process? It's around "moderately complicated". I'm sure you can find a video about it, and it's in the shop manual. If the low pressures are due to valves, it's a coincidence that both cylinders are equally near the lower limit though. I'd probably not buy that one. I don't think it's a piece of junk or anything, but I wouldn't want to get involved with the lowish compression and the mystery "check engine" light when I could probably get one in better condition for a few more dollars.
  29. 1 point
    I touched my chain after riding one hour and it's barely warm. If you leave the bike in the sun on a hot day it will be a lot hotter to the touch than from riding.
  30. 1 point
    Well done for giving it a go, and learning lots. Don't be too hard on yourself - your riding and self-analysis is 100% typical of a novice track rider at their first track day. We were all there once. Through experience you'll gain extra skill and speed, there's no other way or shortcuts to get there. You have a great attitude of wanting to learn more from your track experience.
  31. 1 point
  32. 1 point
    Update: Mileage passed 4,000 yesterday and it was time for a new rear tire. Since the front is still in good condition, I went with the same spec. rear tire: A Dunlop GPR-300 in size 140/70R17. After the initial easy ride on the new tire, I changed the engine oi and oil filter while the engine was warm, using an OEM oil filter (as I always do) and Yamalube AP 10/40 oil. The shifting and clutching feels as smooth as silk, As always, the MT-03 continues to thrill with a great handling feel and great power characteristics.
  33. 1 point
    They probably looked at it and came to the same conclusion as a number of us. It didn't need cleaned. I know I wouldn't bother. Especially when they come with that off white lithium lube on them new and yours looks pretty clean. Did you ever lube it? One other note, if they were doing repairs and charged for repairs regardless of cost if they'd spent another half hour cleaning a chain they would charge you for that half hour. Much like all of us, they don't work for free.
  34. 1 point
  35. 1 point
    OP, your chain looks beautiful. I'd leave it alone. Also, consider the points made here:
  36. 1 point
    The fact that it charged some when you revved it, even just a little bit, would lead me have a little more faith that the stator is actually producing electricity. It very well sounds like the voltage regulator portion of the regulator/rectifier is faulty and not allowing the bike to charge fully- it's regulating at too low of a voltage. So, to answer your question directly, if it were my bike, I'd first check the connections for cleanliness and then test the stator. My hunch would be the reg/rec, but I'd rule the other things out first since they cost nothing and really ought to be double checked in a situation like this. Could be something as simple as a pinched wire. Also, none of us were ever confident or competent the first time! Asking and digging in is how all of us learn! Testing a stator is actually very easy, though it seems daunting at first. If you have an electrical meter that reads ohms ( the Omega/ horseshoe looking icon) we can walk you through the test. Once you see how it's done you'll wonder why it ever looked intimidating. All you need to access is the connector coming out of the stator cover. You don't have to open the engine or disassemble anything...maybe remove a body panel to gain access.
  37. 1 point
    Rotor, stator, rectifier/regulator, wiring and connectors. If there's a failure that's not wiring or connectors, the first thing to check is the regulator. Stators rarely just fail, and as @ElGonzalessaid, you can get a good idea about the stator's condition by measuring its winding resistances and comparing them to the values in the manual.
  38. 1 point
    They come in the shop all the time, " it won't whatever it must be the cran...". Nope bad battery or dirty/loose cables, same code.
  39. 1 point
    Maybe your stator delivers the correct AC voltage, but the rectifier/regulator module fails the correct transformation to DC. 12.5 V with engine running in higher rpms is to low. The service manual gives the advice to check the stator by measuring the electrical resistance of it's 3 coils. This is done within 5 Minutes. If they are out of spec you can rule out everything else. It would be great to know what AC Output Voltage of the stator we can expect. I guess around 70-80V (minimum, hazardous to touch!) but I haven't found informations.
  40. 1 point
    Yeah, with the original relay there should be additional resistors to simulate the load of bulbs OR somebody replaced the relay by one which is able to work with low LED currents. But I am really curious to know what "everything else attached to the indicator circuit" is People sometimes like to search for errors in a completely wrong direction.
  41. 1 point
    thanks. Just ordered a new one for now until I can afford the stage 2.
  42. 1 point
    If he has LED's there should be a load cell somewhere, I hate those things. People mess up a lot of wiring harnesses putting Chidunkjunk accessories on their bikes unless they know what they're doing, buy the right stuff and most importantly know what they're doing with a tool in their hand. That's why I always say check everything carefully, skip or assume nothing.
  43. 1 point
    These are my thoughts and practices, different riders have different practices and opinions. Having used a similar O-ring chain on my KLX650 never actually cleaning it and lubing it not quite as often as I should, I run around 15,000 miles probably around 1/4 on dirt/gravel when I notice some links starting to tighten and sprocket starting to hook. So I do a new chain and sprockets on my tire change, which averages around 4000 miles when the tread is shallow enough on the back to lack the traction I want on the dirt/gravel. I only have a few adjustments early on when the chain and sprockets are seating in. From there the wear is mostly negligible, meaning only about 4 adjustments over the 15,000 miles. I also run a shade loose so I'm not pulling the chain too tight as the suspension compresses. I figure that chain isn't all that bad. The O-ring has the main wear point, the pins, enclosed in with lube. Any cleaning must be careful enough not to penetrate the O-ring seal and thin the lube, so I don't get overly concerned with the stuff I get on paved roads. Also never pressure washed the chain - ever.
  44. 1 point
    As the title states, complete Fz-07 wheelset, non-abs, with rotors, sprocket, sprocket carrier, and a brand new set of Pirelli SuperCorsa SP's. Ready to bolt on. . I now have two sets of Dymag wheel sets so no longer need these and need the space in my garage as I'm downsizing from a 3-car to 2-car garage . Great to have as a spare set if you're a track rider. . $500, buyer pays shipping
  45. 1 point
    Alright so I am going to try and give you the full build list, but I am sure I am forgetting some things, bike comes with title and bill of sale and is located in Herndon VA, outside of DC (20170). Asking $11,300 R6 front end w/ohlins 30mm kit mated to Robem adjustable triples with linear steering damper. Suspension is setup by thermosman 2016 r6 master (oem brembo) Ktech razor-r rear shock with the Robem rear link also setup by thermosman Full r6 wheel conversion front and rear with captive spacers all from Robem Underslung rear caliper bracket with modified brembo p34 rear caliper. With the roaring toyz captive chain adjuster/axle block kit GB Racing engine case covers Woodcraft sharkfin and spool bungs welded onto the swim arm Lightened everything. So trimmed wiring harness, frame, swing arm etc, I have a bunch of ti bolts I’ll also include APmoto ecu and rectifier relocaters Full sharkskinz bodywork, never crashed, with their mount kits. Aka easily replaceable and compatible with other sets out there. Paint done by some dude in Ashland, decals by DrippinWet SS front and rear brake lines Motion pro adjustable throttle kit Ftecu engine control with qs all tuned and setup Carbonsmith dual ram airbox, same one used by Jason Madama in MotoAmerica. Engine work done by RTR out of Jacksonville NC. He finished top 5 at road Atlanta on his fz that I sold him. Focus on engine build was reliability first, then performance. So we cutback the gears on the transmission, lightened a few parts in there and thinner head gasket for a little more compression. So we got a little more power and faster pickup. We did not do cams, pistons etc bc I was focusing on reliability. Great platform if you would want to do a sbk build Full akra carbon exhaust I have mounts for hardwire transponders and aim laptimers as well. With easy electrical quick disconnects that are waterproof. I am not including Westhold transponder or laptimers with the deal Ebc brakepads Woodcraft clip ons Woodcraft rearsets Mounts for laptimers/transponders. (Actual transponders/laptimers not included) I am sure I am missing some stuff but overall it’s a clean really well done bike
  46. 1 point
    Selling my 2015 fz07 so all the goodies are going too. All items are located in Minneapolis, Prices do not include shipping. More pictures on request if anyone needs something specific Woodcraft clip ons 1.5 drop- 150$ Sold Woodcraft rear sets+extra peg standard shift- 250$ Sold Spiegler brake lines- 50$ Power commander 5- 250$ Dobeck performance EJK 100$ Leo Vince exhaust, has an extra O2 sensor bung welded for autotune- 350$ Sold Mwr filter plus lid- 70$ Nitron R3 shock setup for 195lb rider last rebuilt in spring of 2020- 675$ Forks by Matt conversion with .95 springs 200$+trade for stock forks Sold
  47. 1 point
    Akrapovič full Titanium exhaust (the best looking one, not the carbon fiber model)- under 2K miles, DB killer out. the DB killer that came with it is modified (cut to increase airflow and sound - it's too quiet when installed, but ran without as the sound is too good to muffle) - $500 (SOLD) DNA stage 2 intake - $100 (under 2 k miles) Power Commander v - $200 (only about 800 miles) Auto tune module for PC-V - $150 (only about 800 miles) Running this combination completely transformed the bike. Shipping is on the buyer from 02563. These were on a 2018, but may fit other years (not sure). Thanks.
  48. 1 point
  49. 1 point
  50. 1 point
    Finally got a seat that will support my ass for longer rides, and I am pretty happy with the look as well. They may not be quite the same comfort level as the Corbin, but I just don’t think the Corbin really fits the MT aesthetic at all. And these (Bagster Ready Luxe) are half the price.
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